apbtmaxx
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Posts posted by apbtmaxx
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Moses, what do you think about 10 ft-lbs drag of torque for front pinion with used (about 15.000 miles on it) bearings?? and 300 ft-lbs of torque on the nut???
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Hey Moses, here i put some pictures about the front axle with 3.42 depth setting:
Inicial depth setting with OEM depth shim 0.029"
Drive: too shallow
Coast: Idem
With 0.0315" (0.029" + 0.0025")
Drive:
Coast:
With 0.034" (0.029" + 0.005")
Drive:
Coast:
Pinion:
And the FINAL Pattern with 0.037" (0.029" + 0.008") Found my target....Slightly deep!!!!
Drive:
Coast:
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Thank you Moses!!!! so, what torque do you recommend?
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Thank you!!! for pinion nut i used 350 feet-pounds and gave me between 15 and 17 inch-pounds, yes, today i disassembled the front end, tomorrow i change the gears, i'm thinking to re-use the bearings they are in a very good condition, only 15.000 miles on them.-
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Thank you a lot Moses!!! yes yes, i mean 0.058", the OEM depth shim is a 0.052" and was too shallow.
Wwhat do you think about above setting numbers? pinion preload, total preload, backlash, etc??
Only on the coast side the pattern is favor to toe, but just slightly deep on the drive side, and centered hill to toe. Tomorrow i'll disassemble the front end.-
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Moses, the sound was the extra lip of the seal sleeve, yes, i know the difference, inch-pounds is another thing, Finally i set mi rear end:
Pinion Depth: 0.59".
Ring Gear Tooth Pattern: slightly deep.
Pinion Bearing Preload: 17 inch-pounds.
Total Bearing Preload: 32 inch-pond.
Backlash:
0,155
0,16
0,17
0,17
0,165
0,15
0,14
0,145
0,15
0,17
0,18
0,17
0,15
0,15
0,145
0,15
0,16
0,16
0,145
0,15
0,15
Today i took a ride on my truck and i can say now i'm so impressed!!!, an average of 4 literss less in every 100 kilometros, 140 km/h 14.3 liters!!! the difference is huge!!!! it need 18 liters and 140 km/h before!!!,
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THANK YOU SO MUCH MOSES for the info!!!! i have a question, when i finnished the pinion depth settings, the next step was the pinion preload, and when a reaches a 17 ft/lbs, pull out the flange to instal the oil seal, when i instaled the oil seal it hear a something like dragging like a rubber against something, do you say that can be the rubber of the oil seal sleeve???, it is not so ease with solid spacer because involve several attempts to reach a desirable preload, tomorrow i'll set the backlash and total preload, last pattern check, and that end should be done.
What do you think about this pinion preload? 17 ft-pounds???
Thank you Moses for westing your time to type you info for me!!!!!
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EUREKA!!!! Moses, i found how the speedo picks up the signal!!! not from rear tone wheel, at least in my case the speedo picks up the signal from the front ABS sensor, today morning i umplugged both front ABS sensor and the speedo stop working, so, i'll check the final pattern i'll post some pics, then, i'll re-gear the front differential.
ARIEL.-
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Moses, i found this, take a look and tell me what do you think about this, perhaps the signal pick up from front abs sensor and rear sensor, or i dont know haw work in my truck:
http://investor.aam.com/phoenix.zhtml?c=63076&p=irol-newsArticle&ID=1467269
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Moses, i understand what you say, but as i said the 0.006" (not the backlash), is the depht shim added to a OEM 0.052" depht shim, giving a total depht shim of 0.058", understand?
Moses, i´m setting the differencial outdoor, but at night, i move the truck to my garage, so, i check the speedo when i move the truck without the rear carrier (no ring gear, no tone ring, no axle shaft, anything) and the speedo work anyway!!!. What do you think about that???
My truck is this:
2010 model here, maybe the 2007 model in USA.
Anyway my backlash target is 0.006"
all AAM Gear set (rear and front) and all new bearings, 0.006" depht shim plus (0.052" + 0.006" = 0.58") gave me a slightly shallow patern, and with 0.008" + 0.052" = 0.060" shows a little deeep patern, so tomorrow i'll try with 0.007" plus.
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Thank you Moses, that pattern was with old bearings (slighty deep), but today i set with all new bearings and the ring gear teeth patern gave me a enough deep pattern, no, i didnt make with titanium dioxide, i make it with some yello "John Deere" paint, yellow Ferrite, lithium grease and diaper rash cream!!!! what u think? lol, nice mixture eh!!!!, yes, the next work is swap the front end.
I can´t set the parking brake because it hasn't the axle shaft because i move the truck to my garage, i work outside when make that job.
The speedometer is working without the rear differential!!!!!!!, so, or the speedo picks the signal up from the front ABS sensor or from automatic transmission tail or somethink, i don't know what i'll do with my sppedo, maybe take it to the Chrysler dealer and plug the Starscan or Witech ad set the speedo for the new ratio???? what do you say???
I'm a little frustrated!!! set the pinion depht is the worse part of the differential configuration!!!!! i think the slighty deep patern in the ring teeth is the best bussines and i get that condition with 0.060" (OEM 0.052 and 0.008" plus) with OLD bearings, and i think with new bearing the ring gear teeth pattern can shows a little deeper??? well, today i set the pinion depht with all new bearings, as i said above, with nice and clean installation accuracy races and others, so, a slighty deep (old bearings) and a little deeper (with new bearings) gave me a deep enough ring gear teeth pattern, pics below and i real need an advice from you!!, change the plus shim 0.006" in place of 0.008"??? i have "relative" time, but less patience than the first day....
My fear is if i use the 0.006" the pattern give me a slighty shallow, and i want a slighty deep pattern, what u think?
Coast:
Drive:
Pinion teeth too shallow:
Pulling the pinion out:
I real need a skill advice!!!
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The last reading pattern was wrong, why? I FORGOT TIGHTEN THE CARRIER BEARINGS CUPS BOLTS!!!!! so, i put new pics here below of "REAL" last pattern, after retighten the carrier bearings cup bolts, the patter shows a slighty deep in the drive and the coast, and there is a couple of picture of pinion pattern obtained:
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Yes Moses, your video was lot of helpfull!!!, no, i ordered an special trial nut, just final i will use the new genuine nut, i make a mistake, i set the pinion preload before pinion depht!!! i´ll have to re-set the pinion preload, i can´t find the gear marking compound in any stores, so, i had to make my own gear marking compound and work fine, do you know the composition or how they make the marking compound??? well, i left some pics below with several attempt to get the correct pinion depht, i hope your opinion:
This pic was taken before disassembly:
I forgot take pictures in first attempt using the oem pinion shim depht (0.52"), so this are the pic in the second attempt and a 0.008" added and a total of 0.60":
In this attempt, i removed material from a 0.008" depht shim and that gave me a total of 0.058" with 0.006" shim and gave a slighty shalow
Here i think is the final set because i'm back to 0.008" shim with my own homemade gear marking compound!!!! this gave me a very nice patter (but, what do you think?), slighty deep...perhaps:
Do you know if the speedo can set with this new 3.42 ratio? or the signal pick it up from front ABS?? if don't, do you know the steps to make the set with the Starscan or Witech Chrysler tools???
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Hey Ludel, long time no see you, how are you? finally i got all AAM parts for the swap, today i was setting the pinion, i started with the OEM depth shim, i REALLY REALLY AND REALLY hope the tooth pattern be right in the first attempt, because i dont want disassemble the carrier again, my truck has Trac-Rite carrier and it is too heavy!!! i have a couple of queston for you, i was setting the pinion with solid collar and shims, in the 4th attempt i get 8 to 10 in/pounds of drag, (Note: im using original used bearings, they are perfect), what do you think about this torque pinion preload for used bearings? set there or.....disassemble it again to remove a bit of material from that solid collar and get about 15??? yukon says the pinion preload with new bearings is 20-30 in/lbs and with used bearings 8-11, AAM and crhysler says with new is 15-25 PPL and with used bearings is 10-20.
I really want to avoid disassemble all again to configure the deep of the pinion!!!!! i read somewhere in some forum or something that the setting tooth pattern in about 80% get a very nice pattern using the factory depth shim, and more if use the same set ring and pinion brand, what you think about all this??? what do you think about that alluminium cover??? what torque recommend me with solid collar? yukon says with preload shim design must be between 200 and 300 f/lbs.
To remove carefully the inner pinion bearing was so hard, about 15 tons, warm it and a couple of taps with a chisel and hammer to realesae the bearing and get it and depht shim to reused it after, i have a splitter but is too small for the 11.5 AAM, so i had to homemade one.
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No Moses, i'll ask to another guy that make the solid for me, and i was talking about add or remove shims from the pinion and inner bearing to reach the correct shift pattern, and also needs add or remove shims between bearing and solid sleeve to get the correct pinion preload, now, talking about the language, you can speak in spanish with me and practice whenever you want, spanish its a bit harder to learn than english, sometimes i like speak the british english accent, it sounds a little funny for me, the harder english to understand when speak fast is people from Dublin, north of Ireland, and harder spanish to understand is the Colombian, center of America.
Asi que Moses, si hablamos español tal vez yo escriba con el acento tan particular que tenemos los argentinos, que tipo de acento español podés hablar? el argentino dice "podés" los demas hispanoparlantes dicen "puedes", ustedes en ingles tambien tienen distintas palabras, no? -
Thank you Moses, my question was if you would prefer put in there a solid collar or the "classic" crush sleeve, i know setting both of them, crush sleeve its easier to set up, but solid involve a harder work to setting up the pinion, of course, after setting the pinion depth configuration with his depth shims to reach the desirable shift pattern between pinion and ring, in my front is already has solid collar that i got a desirable pinion preload of 17 in/pound of drag, but i'll need to make and machining the new solid for the rear end, but that it is an easy work, just choose a good steel pipe, several sheems and "go for it", perhaps the next week i get all things in my house, and the next month the rear end ring and pinion set, the brand choose by me was AAM for both differentials, just like you would find inside the mopar box, i plan to change almost everything, except the bearings, front are about twelve miles on it, and the rear are from factory, about 70 k miles on it, but the rear bearings i'll check if need to change it, if don't, i'll use same four bearings, do you understand my english??? and learned this language in high school and university, i'm an accountant but i love make any fix or upgrade to my truck myself, and thank you again for spend your time to type me, thanx a lot, and for sure when i finish and tested the 3.42 with stock wheels i'll tell you the fuel eficiency, and others.-
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Hello Moses, i was watching your video and its awesome!!! very helpful information there!!!! and what about tha blistein shocks???
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Moses, what do you recomment me? collapsible or solid collar?
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My truck come with catalytic converter, but not EGR, what is DEF? my brother's truck has EGR, catalytic converter, and i dont know what else, i donk know what is the DEF
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For sure i'll tell you how work, and thank you for your time typing for me!!!!! yes, it's a 2009 with 5.9 High Output (325 HP SAE) and 48RE Laramie Quadcab and genuine Michelin tyres (265/70-17), i never tow, i never haul, and i never load on bed, (perhaps once a year), just use it for travels on road, i use it as a car, but i like this truck with that engine, the best prices that i found in EEUU has this peoples: http://www.drivetrainamerica.com/default.aspx my options was the yukon and AAM but i choose AAM sets, my older brother has a Laramie 2500 6.7 2014, but i dislike the feeling behind that steering wheel, i like the feeling driving a 2009 with 5.9 engine, the 2500 6.7 run to 140 km/h and 2.000 rpm!!! but that truck has a six speed automatic and 18" wheel, mine has 17 inch, and with same ratio (3.42) mine would go to 140 km/h and 2.250 approximately, this is my vin: 3D7KS28709G500738, i had a 2001 XR650R too!!!
How can i watch the entire video??? or how can i download that video???Moses, did you watch these pictures??
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yeah, my truck is totally stock, all as comes from factory, and with 4.10 ratio i cant reach 20 mpg to 130 km/h, imposible, un known guy from a forum has the 3.73 with 35, and got better mpg than I!!!!! i already bought the 3.42 gear ratio, when instaled and test it i'll tell you if the buy worth.
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Yes Moses, as say in this news from AAM, 4.10-3.73 and 3.42 has the same ring gear diameter, all of them, there are only two situation which you should setting up the peedometer 1- whether change for another ring gear diameter and/or 2- if you change the tires diameter, did you read this AAM news? its true? what you think about this AAM news??
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Moses, can i re-use the ring gear bolts????
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One more Question Moses, the 2014 model uses aam diferentials, front and rear? i asking you this because maybe i can buy the sets (3.42) directly from a chrysler dealer and pay less than if iask deliver it from usa, understand.-
Correct Dodge Ram AAM Differential Carrier for 3.42 Ratio and Setting Up the Ring-and-Pinion
in Dodge 4x4 and Ram 4WD Trucks
Posted
The inch torque wrench set between 10-12 inch-lbs of torque in pinion preload, and it is using solid too, and the pinion nut set in 280 ft-lbs of toruqe, so, for used bearings according factory 10 is minimun acceptable for used bearing, so, between 10 and 12 it's right??? what do you think? total torque set in 32 inch-lbs, back lash between 0.12mm and 0.16mm.