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I have a F350 4 x 4, 5.4L, I am having an issue when I am driving anywhere from 40 to 75, it feels like someone going 100 miles per hour rams right into the back of my truck then it seems as if the gear gets stuck, it causes me whiplash almost and also my tires screech.  Then I have to pull over and turn off vehicle for it to kind of reset it self.  Does it happen all the time no. Is it happening more frequently, yes. The code that was flashing was for a solenoid sensor so that was replaced. Can you give some sort of direction.  After code was fixed we thought issue was fixed and no still did same thing, and the truck is NOT giving one single code.   please help. Thank you

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Christa, this sounds like a gear issue like the transmission, transfer case or rear axle.  Something is locking up or the transmission is downshifting abruptly when it should not be.  

One of our Jeep members recently had the spider/pinions in the rear axle differential cause a sudden lurch and banging that was intermittent until the rear axle's differential let go completely.  Here is a link to that issue with his photos of the damage:

Your problem could be less drastic.  What year is your F350?  Which transmission do you have?  If the E4OD automatic, does it feel like the transmission is suddenly downshifting when it should not be?  That would be a strong possibility.

The transfer case could also be the source, and if the transfer case is binding or locking up, you could have this kind of issue.  A lifted truck with binding at the U-joint flanges could cause an issue.  A bad driveline/joints could be an issue...However, this sounds more like the transmission if an automatic...I'd start with the transmission, especially if the E4OD automatic.  If the transmission is the problem, there is a signal issue from the governor, VSS, speedometer sensor or the downshifting solenoids and valve body.

Look into the transmission trouble spots, in particular the speed signals for shifts...We've had a great deal of discussion on the E4OD transmission and troubleshooting.  Here are links to E4OD troubles and solutions:  http://forums.4wdmechanix.com/search/?&q=Ford E4OD&item=981

Provide more information, we can discuss this more...

Moses

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Moses-

this is bruce Christa brother, I've been helping her with the truck. It is a 2007 f350, transmission is 5R110W. We replaced the joint at the transfer case greased the drive lines at the slip yokes. First thing the truck had a cam code that was repaired. Christa had the SSPC-E and internal harness replaced used Ford products. After we replaced the u joint test drove u joint issue fixed the truck was driven and the sudden jolt happen again when the truck was driven in 3rd gear no jolt but of course high rpm in 3rd put in Drive eith overdrive engaged and napped again. Please advise. 

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Hi, Bruce...The Ford 5R110W transmission is a rugged unit used in both the light and medium duty trucks.  I doubt the truck's transmission has deep mechanical problems—yet.  It shifts correctly when not faulting.

From what you describe, I believe the problem is electrical or sensor related to the transmission, not the engine.  This transmission does not have a valve body in the conventional sense and relies almost totally on its TCC/TCU and the gang of shifting solenoids.  Speed sensor, ground faults and other feedback issues come into play any time the transmission shifts rely upon electronic or electrical sensors and signals.

This is a case where the use of a scan tool can be helpful if there is a stored transmission (TCC/TCU) code.  The problem can be anything related to faulty solenoid signals, but the symptom clearly sounds like this 5-speed transmission is going into either a downshift mode (one or maybe two gears at a time) randomly or the Range Sensor is faulty.  Check the Range Sensor and for Range Sensor trouble codes.  This sensor signals the gear range selected and tells the ECU which gear is selected.  It can cause random shifting issues if the sensor is defective, has poor connections (grounds included) or is not getting the right signal to the ECU.  

I searched a bit and got some information.  These are informative links to pursue.  Test for transmission shifting, gear selector and speed sensor fault codes in your troubleshooting.  Be certain to test the Range Sensor and related grounds:

http://www.dieselhub.com/trans/5r110w-torqshift.html  [pay particular attention to the solenoids references and diagnostics/troubleshooting section]

https://certifiedtransmission.wordpress.com/2014/10/14/electrical-gremlins-in-5r110w/  [Not as likely but worth noting]

http://etereman.com/blog/ford-transmission-2/smart-tipsto-extend-the-life-of-your-ford-5r110w-transmission  [very general but survival tips for this transmission]

https://www.amazon.com/D16410-5R110W-TRANSMISSION-SENSOR-2003-UP/dp/B018RUP784  [link to several photos of a Range Sensor...This device is vulnerable to corrosion, damage and wear.  Testing would be the first step, it's too expensive to replace the sensor unless you know for sure that it is defective.  Check related grounds.]

Search for transmission codes, wiring shorts, high resistance at connectors/plugs and faulty grounds would be a place to start.  Test the Range Sensor.  Don't replace parts unless you confirm they are defective, this can get expense and waste money.

Let us know what you find...

Moses

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They diagnosed a bad tranny, so we replaced, picked up truck today while driving home, still having same issue rear breaks are locking up for split second feels like someone hit you from behind and tranny down shifted and rpm run up and tranny acts as if in neutral.

Looking forward to hearing back.

Thanks 

Christa/David

 

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Our truck has a 8 inch lift and oversized tires, we purchased like that ran truck for year and half and never had issue. Replaced 

Transmission, front hub assemblies, carrier barring, u joints, cam shaft position sensors, front breaks

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Christa...I'm unclear what the shop replaced with the transmission build.  Did they account for each of the points I described in the March 10th reply above?  Did your brother Bruce go over those points with the shop?  Make sure each of those possible trouble areas has been addressed.  Discuss this with the transmission shop before moving to other possibilities.

If not transmission or shift system related, this could be a brake or ABS system problem...See if there is a specific problem with the ABS module, the rear ABS pumping system or the rear axle's Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) sensor signal to the ABS system.  Connections and wiring can be faulty.  

Something could be falsely triggering the brake ABS function.  Make sure the brake master cylinder is releasing completely.  Make sure the brakes are not dragging.  (Check for hot pads and rotors, or hot drums at the rear if so equipped, when the vehicle has been driven normally...Do not burn your fingers!)  Make sure fluid is not getting trapped in the brake hydraulic system by a partially applied master cylinder or a master cylinder reservoir return port that is obstructed.  Check the rear brakes for loose or dragging parts.  A sticking caliper (disc brakes) or wheel cylinder piston (drum brakes) could create brake drag and set off the ABS.  A defective rear brake or chassis height proportioning valve can cause rear wheel lock-up.  Make sure the hydraulic proportioning valve is not defective or trapping fluid in the rear braking system.

Do as much as you can with scanner testing/diagnostics to pinpoint an electrical or module problem before putting any more parts into the truck.  If you can with certainty rule out a transmission-related problem, I would troubleshoot the rear brakes, ABS system and the brake hydraulic system.  The lift and oversized tires complicate the ABS signal, but you share that the system did work properly for a long time then suddenly acted up. 

Let us know what this turns out to be...

Moses

 

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