Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Hi everyone,  

I am about to embark in the task of replacing the timing chain aluminum housing, and every other component related. It all started with an oil leak, which according to my mechanic is caused by chain slack having damaged the cover. No coolant mixing with oil, just an unexplained leak. Upon starting, the engine had been making a sort of rattle that quickly faded away as oil pressure built. 

So, now that the problem has been identified, parts bought and most of the "in the way parts" removed I am about ready to start removing the chain cover. My mechanic didn't want to do the job...guessing he is wealthy enough to turn away time consuming jobs.  I need to find a good video or book showing how to do all this disassembling and reassembling, hopefully someone here knows of a link or source. The truck is a 1993 4x4 deluxe Pickup. I also like to check and clean up the oil pan and pump filtering for any debris before reinstalling, was told I needed to remove the front axle. I am not a mechanic, but do have access to tools and know how to use them. I have done brakes, replaced struts and most steering components both on 1985 Honda and 1997 4Runner. Any tips related to the task at hand would be welcomed. Thanks, Jay 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Jay, you're smart to use an official Toyota factory service manual if you can find one, otherwise an aftermarket shop manual with step-by-step details would work for this task.  If your truck has the 3VZ 3.0L V-6 engine, it uses a timing belt.  While damage to a timing cover is prevalent with a loose chain in a chain drive camshaft engine, this is far less likely with a belt drive type.

As for an engine rattle on start-up, this could be lower end bearings or loose pistons if you have a timing belt and not a chain.  Please share more details on your engine type, the leak area and the noise.  A short video with audio would be very helpful.  We'll try to pinpoint the engine startup noise and identify the leak source.

If you would please start a new topic on this subject within this forum section, I will watch for your update and reply.

Thanks,

Moses

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks Moses. The 1993 22RE equipped pickup was already inspected by a mechanic and diagnosed accordingly, the shop simply didn't "have the time" to dedicate to the task, as these days they rather make a quick buck by repairing collisions paid for by insurance companies, this statement from the mouth of the owner. So it's up to me to do the fixing. Following some online advice, I purchased  Toyota Truck and Land Cruiser Owner's Bible recommended somewhere by a few mechanics, have also a Chilton guide for mechanical works on this model. After having removed radiator, belts, air conditioner compressor, water pump and other stuff. What remains is the pulley, which requires the use of a puller I don't happen to own. I am not familiar with the kind of puller Iwould need to tackle this task, so here open to advice or suggestions. Once that accomplished will be ready to expose the timing chain internals.

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi, Jay...The 22R-E is a proven four-cylinder OHC engine, derivative of the famous 20R.  This is a great engine and practical learning ground.  Basic and accessible, the 22R-E timing cover project has been done infinite times due to wear of the timing chain, the tensioner, guides and the cover. For a thorough job, replace the tensioner and guides, the chain and the cover.  

The Toyota Truck and Land Cruiser Owner's Bible is familiar, I wrote it.  (Note the author on the spine, cover and title page.)  This is more an orientation to these vehicles.  You do need a companion shop manual for hands-on work like your timing cover replacement.  Enjoy the book!

The Chilton guide should be sufficient for your task at hand.  My publisher (Bentley Publishers), also did a repair manual that covers your vehicle, as did Haynes and John Muir.  If the Chilton book seems detailed and accurate, go for it.

As for the crankshaft pulley puller, I have the factory manuals (official Toyota), and they recommend tools common in the aftermarket.  You want a "harmonic balancer" puller, not a steering wheel puller.  The pulley is often quite stiff on the crankshaft.  Here is one example, pullers are available from a variety of sources.  Note that this tool also eases installation of the pulley, we can talk about inexpensive improvisation methods, I've done my share:

https://m.summitracing.com/parts/sum-g1023-1

Make sure the puller set has metric hardware to match your pulley's threads.  Worse case, you can get 8.8 or higher metric bolts that match.

Glad to comment and be a sounding board for your project.  We want this to be a success story! 

Moses

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Well Moses thank you so much for all the tips and suggestions. Started viewing a few YouTube vids done by a few guys, some showing incorrect ways, but at least you get the idea about what you are getting into. Also ordered a 1/2 breaker bar and the pulley puller set you recommended. Found a posting by 4Crawler.com uploaded in 2002 with a detailed step by step instructional which I downloaded as a PDF on my iPad, only problem is the technical wording, so time to bush up on my engine parts nomenclature skills. I feel more confident about getting it done right, hope to start as soon as tools arrive. Jay 

P.S. I have not yet received the softcover book you wrote, so wasn't aware it was redacted by you, that's great to know.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Moses,

Got a window of good weather here in the Wild & Wonderful Highlands of Eastern West Virginia, so eager to catch up with my 1993 22RE timing chain swap. Took a few photos of how markers look now and the fact # 1 valves tops are free from tension, ignition points to #1 firing sequence, oil pump mark at 0, and bottom pulley marker and key pointing to top. Not sure about why marks inside oil pump gears do not match or meet, should they? The crank shaft nut was barely tightened, amazing...pulley simply slid out, all looks fine...no shavings...damage. Started getting TC screws out and only one remains...the one hidden under the pool of oil that holds the top of the cover to the head. Need to remove the top sprocket that connects to the ignition.
 
Right away I noticed the driver's side plastic chain guide screw attachment broken, the guide is still in place and a slight shinny mark can be seen running vertically along the cover (driver side), so I caught this early enough that barely any damage was done...nice to know. Here a few photos of the surgical incision. Last one details the inside of the oil pump gears, which arrow marking don't match each other or anything else I could see...no mention of it in any article either...so hoping anyone here has a clue. Thanks. Jay 

IMG_6168.JPG

IMG_6166.JPG

IMG_6167.JPG

IMG_6169.JPG

IMG_6171.JPG

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi, Jay...The photos are great!  They clarify a lot.  

When you're bringing the #1 piston to TDC mark on the compression stroke, make sure the crankshaft rotates in its normal direction and do not pass the timing mark.  You want no slack in the tension side of the chain when positioning the camshaft.  If you do pass the TDC mark, either go around two more times or back the crankshaft up 180 degrees and bring it to TDC again.  This removes slack in the chain.

Sounds like time for a new chain and tensioner?  You'll have this repair done quickly...The oil pump marks look like marking strikes during production.  Notice that the mark is in such a position that there is no way for the two marks to align; neither mark is aligned with a notch, both are marks on a tooth. 

If this is any kind of gear indexing, it might be that the marks align opposite each other in order to center the inner splines with the drive sleeve teeth?  I looked this up in Toyota shop manuals and found no reference to "indexing" the oil pump gears by these two marks.

These are the official checks for the 22R-E timing chain and tensioner:  Toyota 22R-E Timing Chain and Tensioner Checks.  Thought you might find this useful...

Moses

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks for the link to the checks for determining wear limits of chain, sprockets and tensioner. I had bought the entire setup from engnbldr.com out of Portland, OR, with all the parts needed; including chain, metal guides, tensioner, cover, gaskets, seals, water and oil pumps. I am not sure if the sprockets were included, will check. I had already thought about changing the sprockets too, might as well, since I can't tell when or if these parts were ever replaced. The truck has 280k miles, drives great and has no rust, only paid 2,300 for it  6 years ago, so extending its usable life is nothing to ponder about, far better than buying a new one. 

4 hours ago, Moses Ludel said:

 

When you're bringing the #1 piston to TDC mark on the compression stroke, make sure the crankshaft rotates in its normal direction and do not pass the timing mark.  You want no slack in the tension side of the chain when positioning the camshaft.  If you do pass the TDC mark, either go around two more times or back the crankshaft up 180 degrees and bring it to TDC again.  This removes slack in the chain.

 

The quoted paragraph, sound a bit technical, so I am going to attempt to "decipher " here...l think #1 piston to a top dead center (TDC)on the compression stroke means, that the first two valves in front, will feel a little lose, the bottom crank pulley notch will be visible at top and the ignition cap will point at about 11hour. Does that makes sense? Right now it looks like everything is where it should, at least where it concerns markers, grooves and such.  I am not sure which or where is the "tension side of the chain"...boy, do I feel dumb, saying that...lol. I am going to look for some visual aid (video) to help me understand this before I move ahead...oh boy 2:00AM and I just found the entire PDF shop files on the internet which has detailed explanations with nice drawing, so that should help me finally get this into my head. Jay

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Jay...You do understand TDC at the top of the compression stroke, it's just as you described...TDC is the piston at the highest point in the cylinder:  Top Dead Center, a time-honored reference for internal combustion engines.

The tension side of the chain is simple to understand, too.  When you rotate the crankshaft in its normal direction of rotation (not backward), the chain tensions on the pull side.  This takes all slack out of the chain.  The chain tensioner is on the other side of the chain, the slack side.

I thought you might need this insight because rotating the crankshaft beyond the TDC mark then rotating the crankshaft backwards will actually put slack in the "tension" side of the chain.  This would give you an inaccurate reading of the valve timing.  

Yes, both valves at #1 cylinder should be closed with clearance at the #1 rocker arms.  For valve timing mark alignment, however, you are also concerned about the chain being tensioned.  That's the reason I went into detail about this step.  

Note:  If the chain is not tensioned when you align the valve timing marks, inaccurate sprocket alignment can result.  This is especially true if a tensioner is hydraulic and not applying full pressure or if the chain has some wear.  Fully spring loaded tensioners (without oil pressure) present less of a problem.  You should still check valve timing sprocket marks with no slack on the pull side of the chain...

If you have further questions, please ask.  This is supposed to result in a clear understanding of what you're doing.  We want your project to conclude with a successful timing chain and tensioner installation, cause for celebration!

Moses

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Well, thanks again for all that free advise. I will probably have a friend with more mechanical skills come and look everything up; timing, slack, piston, valve related stuff, before I button up...just to be on the safe side. Today, nice weather day, I removed the 19mm nut securing the ignition gear to the top chain sprocket and finally, the last bolt, which is not depicted on the official service manual, how about that, they missed that very important bolt. Anyways, the cover came out rather easy... which makes me wonder about the leak location, directly under the chain cover housing. Looks like this area has seen work at some other time, which would be reasonable given the 280k plus mileage. Took a photo of the cover interior showing two quarter inch clearly defined parallel cuts, about 1/8" deep each. No perforation into coolant chamber, nice. Now it's time for me to organize, study and clean up all surfaces. I purchased gasket making stuff(pictured), also my kit came with all gaskets, so not totally sure which to use. My kit also included the top and bottom sprockets, so everything will be reinstalled new. Another question I have is, what should I use to removed old gasket debris and clean the head gasket exposed portion? It is now separated both on head and chain cover sides...not broken.

thanks again, Jay

IMG_6182.JPG

IMG_6183.JPG

image.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Jay...If you're confident that the head gasket is intact and sealing well in the unexposed areas, the use of a thin bead or film of Ultra Black would seal at the cover contact surface.  If you have lowered the oil pan, at least at the timing cover end without causing an issue, this will provide working space for installing the timing cover with new gaskets.  If you have the oil pan removed, even better, you can carefully angle the timing cover to meet the head gasket squarely at the right point and not make a mess with the sealant.  Does your gasket set have the oil pan gasket?  Did you remove the pan?  How much work is it to remove the pan?

Be cautious about disturbing the head gasket.  If you must remove debris, I'd use on-the-vehicle spray carburetor cleaner (not a caustic dip type cleaner!), commonly available at an auto supply like NAPA or wherever you trade.  Use the nozzle and spray lightly, just enough to loosen and spray away debris.  This should be enough, and if not, sponge the debris lightly with a clean cloth and perhaps light spurts with compressed air through a low-pressure air nozzle.  Avoid damaging the gasket, that would make a lot more work.

For the cylinder head side of the exposed head gasket, there is spray sealer like Permatex Hi-Tech Copper Spray Gasket:  https://www.permatex.com/products/gasketing/gasket-sealants/permatex-copper-spray-a-gasket-hi-temp-sealant/.  Avoid over spray.  Don't apply Copper Spray Gasket sealant until you're ready to install the timing cover.  

A good alternative that has other uses as well would be Permatex High-Tack spray.  It has a 500-degree F ceiling, which would work this far away from the cylinder edges:  https://www.permatex.com/products/gasketing/gasket-sealants/permatex-high-tack-spray-a-gasket-sealant/.

High-Tack sets up slowly and remains pliable for lengthy installations.  You can lightly coat the new paper gaskets with High-Tack, too.  Gaskets coated with High Tack will hold in place during assembly and usually separate or clean up easier in the future, something you can appreciate after wrestling with your current clean-up chores!

I would use RTV sealant at the corner junctions of the timing cover where it meets the oil pan or head gasket.  A bead across the gasket junctions, avoiding excessive amounts that can migrate from inside the timing cover to the oil pump pickup screen, would be plenty.  Most leaks at timing covers begin at the junctions between gaskets.

The chain grooves in the cover's side do not look as deep as 1/8"; if they were 1/8" deep, I'd be concerned.  Measure the depth of the wear from the original timing cover surface to the root of the scrapes.  It would be okay around 1/16" (0.0625" or 1.5875mm).  In any case, make sure there is enough cover wall thickness left to prevent problems in the future.

As for getting old gasket material off the surfaces, there are gasket removal chemicals that, frankly, seldom work and generally make a mess.  I find a mild wire brush attached to a bench grinder or hand drill offers the best approach.  This is soft aluminum, use great care to avoid gouging or digging into the aluminum.  A gasket scraper usually leads to trouble, if you use a scraper or knife, make sure it is sharp and keep the blade as close to parallel with the surface as possible, not at an angle that could dig into the aluminum.

Moses  

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Moses,

Man, lots to consider here, I am not certain about the integrity or viability of the entire head gasket (no oil leaks on engine sides?) just that tiny section of the exposed front,  and it looks intact there, no part of it transferred onto the chain cover top section, as did the paper gasket that seals between the time chain cover and engine block, as can be seen on the photo. I wonder if one is expected to take the head off whenever work is to be done to the time chain components and a new head gasket must then be installed, seems reasonable to avoid a potential leak in the future, maybe something I should consider doing, since I also have that gasket on hand.

I will not be reusing any old parts, that includes the time chain cover, so not worried about the depth of the grooves, just wanted to show how it looked. Only need to clean up the block off all the bits and pieces of chain cover gasket left.

I plan to remove the oil pan too and install the new gasket I have got, I want to inspect the filter and remove any debris, that way I will be taking care of any existing gasket related oil leak and ensure a tight seal to the new chain cover. I can button up the chain and engine components, then move to lift the truck and take the differential down to gain the clearance necessary to remove the oil pan. That's the plan.

No doubts this is a big job, easy to get overwhelmed by all the details and parts. No wonder why my mechanic steered clear away from doing it, very time consuming and messy. The more one disturbs the more potential for problems to develop later.

Question: RTV sealant = Ultra Black?

Thanks, Jay

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
23 hours ago, Jay said:

Hi Moses,

Hi, Jay...See my comments below...Don't be intimidated, I'm clarifying to make sure the job turns out the way you want.

Man, lots to consider here, I am not certain about the integrity or viability of the entire head gasket (no oil leaks on engine sides?) just that tiny section of the exposed front,  and it looks intact there, no part of it transferred onto the chain cover top section, as did the paper gasket that seals between the time chain cover and engine block, as can be seen on the photo.

When the engine is factory assembled or you get a "short block" assembly, the timing chain assembly, chain guide and timing cover would be installed first, including all parts that mount behind the cover...Then the head gasket and cylinder head would be installed.  If you were rebuilding the complete engine, that would be the sequence, too.  The chain is held above the timing cover with slight tension (using mechanic's wire, typically) to prevent parts from dropping down behind the timing cover before the head is installed.  Use a shop manual for the parts installation sequence.  Install the head and head bolts according to specifications and follow the tightening sequence.

If you decide to change the head gasket, now would be the time.  Use shop manual steps for removing and installing the head.  The timing cover would go in place before installing the head.  Or you can do the timing cover installation without removing the head if you follow the approach I described in my last reply.  The High-Tack sprayed on each side of the front head gasket extension would work on the undamaged head gasket end.  You do need room to get the cover in place, that's why I described loosening the oil pan enough to install the timing cover without an effort.  If you're dropping the oil pan, that solves the issue; install the timing chain, chain guide, crank sprocket (and any parts that fit behind the cover!) before mounting the timing cover.  After the timing cover is properly in place, you can install the oil pan.  

I wonder if one is expected to take the head off whenever work is to be done to the time chain components and a new head gasket must then be installed, seems reasonable to avoid a potential leak in the future, maybe something I should consider doing, since I also have that gasket on hand.

You should be able to reuse the original head gasket if it is either "factory" or seems to be installed correctly. The portion of the head gasket near coolant jackets and #1 cylinder is well under the head and above the block.  This section exposed is simply to mate with the remaining (front) cylinder head area and the top of the timing cover.  If the gasket is intact, it only needs to seal out dirt and keep oil within the timing cover.   I would carefully torque all of the head bolts once the timing cover is torqued in place.  You can verify this procedure in a shop manual.

I will not be reusing any old parts, that includes the time chain cover, so not worried about the depth of the grooves, just wanted to show how it looked. Only need to clean up the block off all the bits and pieces of chain cover gasket left.

Gotcha...Change the oil filter, too.  That aluminum scraping off the timing cover likely ran through the oil pump pickup screen, the oil pump and the filter.

I plan to remove the oil pan too and install the new gasket I have got, I want to inspect the filter and remove any debris, that way I will be taking care of any existing gasket related oil leak and ensure a tight seal to the new chain cover. I can button up the chain and engine components, then move to lift the truck and take the differential down to gain the clearance necessary to remove the oil pan. That's the plan.

If you drop the pan completely, great.  You should be able to get the timing cover into position with the head still in place if the pan is out of the way.  That's simpler.

No doubts this is a big job, easy to get overwhelmed by all the details and parts. No wonder why my mechanic steered clear away from doing it, very time consuming and messy. The more one disturbs the more potential for problems to develop later.

While you have the pan down, check the oil pump pickup screen for debris.  These screens are generally replaced rather than cleaned.  It's difficult to clean the screen, and this should not be done with the screen in position on the engine.  If you attempt to clean the screen, remove it, soak it in solvent and air blow from the inside outward to keep debris away from the pickup tube.  If not too expensive, consider replacing the screen.  For proper oiling, make sure the screen is positioned properly in the oil pan.

Question: RTV sealant = Ultra Black?

Yes...

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thank you Moses, that was excellent. I was particularly confused about the extending portion of head gasket, didn't know it was an isolated chamber. That makes me way more relax. Looking forward to the next few days with potential warm weather, so I can get to work.

Will keep you posted. Again, I so much appreciate your help.

Jay

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Moses,

I am assembling the water pump and having trouble finding the torque specs for the 10mm bolts and screws, found some mention of 18 ft.lb.for 4 Cly engines, but it says water pump to block, and 14mm bolts, but my bolts are 10mm and the pump attaches to the chain cover, not the block. 18ft.lb. seems a lot for 10mm bolt, I stopped at 10ft.lb. feel tight, afraid to strip the aluminum threads. Any idea what the torque actually is? Service manual skipped that detail.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Well, found it is 6ft.lb. so had gone 3ft.lb. over...darn. Wondering if that is goning to mess things up. I loosened the nuts and bolts and re-tightened them to the 6ft.lb. spec

IMG_6200.JPG

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Should be just fine, Jay...As long as the gasket compressed evenly and has sealant on it, the gasket should seal at the new/lower torque.  Glad you had the intuition to stop tightening!  The gasket did not split, apparently; you would be able to see a split gasket from the water pump's edges... 

Moses

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Moses,

I have one more thing to ask about the chain cover prep process, I have a set of two paper-like gasket that came with the kit, I have sprayed both sides with Permatex Spray a Gasket sealer. Now, do I also apply Ultra black on the metal surface? Or do I go straight to assemblage? I didn't use Ultra Black on the water pump installation, just sealed both sides of the paper gasket with the Spray a Gasket product, as there was no sign of silicon material on the old part. So, are these gasket products intended to replace the paper/or whatever they are made from, gaskets? J

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Jay...Your approach will work just right with the Permatex Spray-a-Gasket, and you don't want to mix that type of material with RTV sealant.  The Spray-A-Gasket works well on paper/cut gaskets.  RTV is used aftermarket and by OEs as the first and only application of sealant where applicable:  differential covers, some timing covers and oil pans, thermostat housings, etc.  This is very evident the first time you take the component apart and find "factory" RTV sealant and no paper/cut gasket.

You want to stick with whatever was "OEM".  Here's a good example why:  A paper gasket has a given thickness, and in an item like your timing cover, you can consider this a "spacer".  If you eliminate the cut gasket that was OE, and you use RTV sealant here, the result is a shift in the location of the timing cover.  Though slight, this affects the alignment of the bolt holes at the oil pan-to-timing cover and elsewhere.  The chain tensioner or other externally mounted items might also be impacted, depending upon the design and parts layout on a given engine type.  RTV sealant on a torqued part is virtually an interference thickness except where surfaces are not flat.  That's thinner than the paper/cut gaskets you have at the timing cover.

Trust that helps...Follow the OE engineering, you can't go wrong!

On another note, when considering the torque of bolts from a general chart and not the OE guidelines for your engine, be aware that charts are describing the bolt shank size, not the wrench size.  When you see "10mm" on a chart, that means a 10mm bolt shank size.  The wrench size is considerably larger.  Always take the bolt's tensile strength into account.  Automotive metric is typically 8.8, 9.8 or 12.9, each has different torque limits for various shank sizes.  Using the correct grade (OEM equivalent) hardware, the torque setting you need is the OEM guideline like the chart you posted. 

Moses

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Moses,

With the assistance of the Toyota Service Manual I have reassembled everything, I am now getting ready to drop the front axle in order to remove the oil pan, get the oil pickup screen cleaned off and then reassemble using a new oil pan, instead of cleaning whatever junky mess I may find. I am also taking the time to replace all of the steering and suspension components, which look  rather old. 

I came across this issue about oil pump priming https://www.yotatech.com/f116/new-22re-oil-pump-priming-78784/ which is not something even mentioned in the TSM reassembling instruction, now I find myself contemplating a potential dry run. As some suggested, I will crank the engine with the coil wire disconnected just to try and prime things a bit. Not sure why the service manual would disregard something that could potentially damage an engine. J

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Jay, this is an important subject.  95% of engine bearing wear is during start-up!  A dry start is even worse.  For this reason, when an engine has a vertical or slanted oil filter, I fill up the filter with fresh engine oil during oil changes.  This primes the filter and drastically reduces the oil filter fill time.

If you cannot spin the oil pump, there is an alternative to your crank-over with the coil wire removed:  An oil priming tank.  I happen to possess one, it's from Goodson Tool:  https://www.goodson.com/EPL-110-Engine-Pre-Lube-Tank/.  The model shown is the latest version, mine is a decade old now.  Some make these primers from an empty and spotlessly clean (optimally new) propane tank, oil resistant pressure gauge, a quality ball valve, high pressure (oil resistant) hose and fittings.

If you have no other method than cranking over, there is likely an oil film on the bearings that will provide some barrier.  I would do this with the coil wire removed and the spark plugs removed.  This takes cranking pressure/load off the crankshaft bearings.  Make sure the engine picks up prime before starting it.  

Note: If the dash oil pressure gauge does not register in cranking mode, use a remote oil pressure gauge to confirm that the galleys are primed or do the cranking with the valve cover removed to confirm that pressurized oil is reaching the valve train.

Judging by the design and location of your 22R-E oil pump, I'm not clear how pump priming would be possible...I'd use an oil priming tank with its hose connected to a main oil galley's pipe fitting orifice or to the OE oil pressure switch/sender's port in the engine.  Know whether the fittings are metric, verify with a thread pitch gauge.

Moses

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks Moses. I have always filled the filter with oil pre reinstall, I recon since I had my first car in the 80's, a fun to drive 6 In-line 72 MB 250C, I guess it was a standard procedure we high schoolers learned from each other.

There is a large bolt on top of the oil pump and the Toyo manual suggests removal to release pressure during disassembling, so maybe it is also a good priming spot, wondering if spraying oil over the rack will help with keeping lifts and cam lubricated. Will connect block oil pressure gage, and remove spark plugs/wires as you recommended.  Will also look at affordable pre-lube assembly options. Not ready to do any of this yet, waiting for warmer weather... a few 30's high in the forecast...so idling around. Have a good one. J

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

We're in the Eastern Sierra region and east of Reno, and this year clobbered us with snowfall, rain and ice rain.  Successive storms that have come in waves, still coming, one more foot of snow projected for the mountains this weekend!  Will be a great year for crops, the California drought is already broken, but I know what you mean by "idling around"...good time to catch up on indoor tasks.

Moses

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Moses,

I just started the truck and it seems to run fine, no oil leaks either. But I am now sensitive to every little sound, so not letting it run more than say 2 or 3 minutes. Don't have a way to determine if oil pressure is ok, I can only tell that the oil inside the pan is being "disturbed" as the dip stick level doesn't stay at rest mark. Not sure what other sound I should be looking for before letting it to warm up. I assume that if the at rest oil pan level shows a dip stick depleted or drawn down look, right after the engine has been turned off, that should be indicative of the oil pump having functioned as supposed to. What I don't understand is, if that fact is separate from pressure being built up. Why is pressure built for? Should I see oil come out of/or slush about if I take off the oil fill cap as I run the engine? Sorry about all these dumb questions, but the more I do, the more evident it becomes how little I know.

Hope you have some tips. 

Jay

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Jay...Oil cap removed and engine running will send splash oil out of the filler hole.  Is the oil gauge and sender not working?  You should be reading gauge pressure at the dash.

Congrats on the project, sounds like you're running...Do confirm the oil flow before driving.

Moses

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks for all your help Moses. The pickup is running just fine, good oil pressure and smooth operation. Will check with timing light to see if off, but doubt it is given how smooth it sounds. Now getting ready to work on installing new front and rear shocks.

Jay

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

×
×
  • Create New...