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well its 1 thing after another lately the t5 jut spat 3rd gear today so ill be doing some research on a better alternative i still want an overdrive box so probably wont go back to the original t176 4spd  i think an ax15 might be ok but ill keep looking to see whats available & strong enough

cheers  ian

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Ian...The T5 is not up for the weight and load of a Jeep CJ10, this transmission could barely keep it together in a CJ7.  There is the "World Class T-5" option, the rare transmission used in H.O. Mustangs.  Years ago, Advance Adapters sold new T-5 World Class replacement units, but that market and supply line dried up.

The AX15 would work, though you have an issue tacking the Dana 300 on the back.  Check out the Advance Adapters website (http://www.advanceadapters.com) for how to mate the Dana 300 transfer case to an AX15.  You need to "clock" the transfer case to the stock rotation of the AX15 4WD rear adapter.  The explanation at the website/catalog explains the parts involved.

There's also the NV4500 option, a swap I covered in detail within my Jeep CJ Rebuilder's Manual: 1972-86 (Bentley Publishers).  Not sure about this transmission's availability at your part of the globe, G.M. and Dodge trucks each used these units, there are differences in the input shafts.  Again, the Advance Adapters online catalog will clarify the parts for this swap and the cost involved.

The NV4500 can handle both the CJ10's weight and the engine's torque loads with ease.  This is a true light- and medium-duty truck transmission with an iron case.  The AX15 was used in Toyota pickups (as the Aisin A150), Jeep and some Dodge Dakotas.  Not a weak transmission by any means though certainly not NV4500 material.

If you need to rebuild an AX15, my streaming rental video how-to has worked well for many:  http://vimeo.com/ondemand/AX15rebuild.

Moses

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my transfer case is the np 208 so i think it should bolt straight up but as you say ive got to find a gearbox first availability is not great & what there is tends to be over priced

cheers  ian

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Ah, this hybrid went with the J-truck transfer case instead of the CJ type.  Your NP208 may be clocked like the NP231 or NP207, and if so, and if spline count is the same as the AX15 output shaft, you have a way to go here.

Check AX15 output shaft length and its penetration into the transfer case input gear.  Be sure the shaft will not bottom in the gear.  On applications like an Advance Adapters Atlas transfer case, the AX15 output shaft requires a slight cut-off or shortening job.

Moses

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Hi Moses ive been a bit slow on this job but ive had to wait on parts & had a lot of work commitments but ive got most of the parts required now just need to adapt the hydraulic line for the clutch but that should be easy enough

ive had the shaft lengths altered by 60mm as the box is 60mm longer got the pilot bush from novak & dummies the transfer up to the ax15 it is on a slightly different angle probably only about 5 degrees or so anti clockwise if anything it looks like it will just improve clearances & the increased front shaft angle will be minimal especially now the front shaft is 60mm longer

hopefully ill get a chance to put a few hours into it soon im missing the old girl

cheers  ian

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Hi, Ian!  So, this is a T4/T5 swap to an AX15?  Looks AMC/Jeep versus later Chrysler/Jeep.  Do I have this right?  

What's the transfer case?  NP208?  I try to keep track, as this J10 is really a hybrid cross between a Jeep CJ and a J-truck!  Chain drive transfer case.  CJ transmission.  Similar to lighter duty J-truck or FSJ Cherokee...

Interesting upgrade...Where do you source these parts?  Are there enough salvage Jeep vehicles available to keep your rigs rolling?  Were the FSJs popular at your part of the globe?  Right hand drive CJs?  Toyota and other Asian 4x4s appear everywhere in documentaries and movies from Australia.  On that note, you have a great film industry!

Moses

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Hi Moses

yes its a t5 to ax15 conversion & yes its an np208

i was able to get the gearbox from a wreckers yard & the slave cylinder from ebay

as you can see in these pics ive just converted the slave cylinder from the plastic tube to steel line the brazing looks a bit rough but it will do the job just fine im sure now i just have to get some fitting next time i go to albany  hopefully later this week or early next that way i can leave my existing clutch line unmodified

the fsj's are a bit thin on the ground over here i think mainly due to poor exchange rates at the time so they were priced out of peoples price range also fuel consumption was an issue so there was a lot more land rovers,landcruisers & nissan patrols the landcruiser ended up coming out on top as the nations prefered 4x4

as for our films your right we do have some great stuff have a look at the trailer on this link its 1 im waiting for

http://www.roughstuffmovie.com/

cheers  ian

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Ian...Plastic line was terrible but cheap for production...You should have decent tensile/PSI burst with the brass.  I like hard silver solder (actually higher temp silver brazing rod) for this, though brass should get it.  Looks like a semi-capillary joint if fluxed, a plumber would like the fit!  Not sure what PSI rating you get with the copper?

Rough Stuff looks like nonstop action with all the bases covered...Quality acting, many Australians find big success at Hollywood.  The filming/direction looks good, 4x4 scenes dialed!

Moses

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Hi Moses its not actually copper i had to look twice when i bought it must be a corrosion resistant coating but it is steel 

i to like silver solder but i used what i had on hand i cant imagine any problem with it

cheers  ian

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Ah, this is called "copper clad" steel pipe.  Toyota Landcruiser and other vintage vehicles used this type of brake tubing to resist corrosion.  Sounds practical.  

The hard silver is actually a brazing process that somehow got the misnomer "solder" attached.  Melting point is typically in the 1100-1300 degrees F range.  Soft or electrical type solder melts at a much lower temp.  This works okay for household copper plumbing, electrical wiring or even jewelry work, but it fails the test for tensile.  

Hard solder/brazing rod can be spendy but has many uses that make it cost effective.  Here's a reprint of an article I did at Classic Trucks, now at my favorite welding rod source, our valued sponsor Weld Mold Company.  I make reference to silver brazing as an option to welding, though there are clearly places for each process.  The grey iron casting depicted actually became a combination Weld Mold 700 and 750 filler rod repair, I used TIG welding process:

http://www.weldmold.com/cast-iron-repair-welding-techniques-cast-iron-repairs/

Silver brazing rod can range from 40-70,000 tensile strength, as high or higher than grey cast or even nodular iron:

Tensile Strength of Brazed Joints | The Harris Products Group

"Tensile Strength of Brazed Joints. Joint strength depends on several factors: clearance between parts, base metal composition, service temperature and joint quality (low voids, good penetration). Joint design will also affect strength. The bulk tensile strength of silver braze alloys is 40,000-70,000 psi."

www.harrisproductsgroup.com/en/Expert.../tech.../tensile-strength-of-brazed-joints.aspx

Here's a non-silver Weld Mold Company brazing rod that is 100,000 tensile, very unusual and optimal for niche applications.  I keep this on my shelf for ultra-strong brazing joints. Check it out:
 
 
Moses

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Hi Moses

I finally got time to get the ute going thanks to the weather it rained all night & all day so i had a good excuse to stay in the shed everything has fitted well with no problems i havent driven it far yet just in & out of the shed as i still have to modify the trans tunnel cover plate for the gear stick before i put the floor mat back in & then its all good to go

cheers  ian

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been driving it for a couple of days now ive towed a trailer & had it in 4wd all working well much quieter & smoother box than the t5 was thats for sure the clutch feels good so i think its a success

cheers  ian

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