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7.3L Power Stroke Ford: White Smoke and Oil in Radiator


TxWolf53

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This is a 1994 F350 7.3L 2wd quad cab dually turbo. I am used to seeing black smoke when I start the truck now seeing white smoke and there is once again oil in the radiator. I had flushed the radiator before but oil is once again there and in the overflow tank also. Been told could be a blown head gasket. Not sure what that would cost to repair beside getting the radiator cleaned out properly. Not sure what the cost of a rebuilt engine versus the repair would be. 

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Hey TxWolf53,

 

   Anytime you have oil in the coolant you have an issue. Do you have any coolant in your oil? If so you really need to stop using the vehicle until repairs can be made. It most likely is a blown head gasket, but continuing to operate it could lead to further damage. You could crack the heads thus adding more expense to your rebuild. Also, with coolant in the oil, you could be damaging the bearings and hard parts in the bottom end of the motor adding more cost to the rebuild.

  Cost for repair will vary depending your location and the extent of the damage. Depending on your plan for the vehicle, a full replacement engine may be the best bet for you. IT will have the least amount of downtime and it will have a much better warranty than just having a local shop fix your problem. Plus we don't know the mileage of your current motor. I would assume north of 200K if I was guessing.

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Agree with Megatron, white tailpipe smoke is usually a blown or seeping head gasket.  Head gaskets can leak a variety of ways.  If leaking between two cylinders and not a cooling jacket or port, there will be loss of compression but no white smoke.  White smoke means that coolant is getting into a cylinder(s).  This can be a loose or blown head gasket or a casting crack.

If the leak is from cylinders into the cooling ports, there is typically a rapid filling of the overflow tank, as compression pressure going into the cooling system within the block and head assembly will unseat the radiator cap (17-21 PSI at radiator cap with a normal cooling system; well over 200 PSI from a diesel cylinder(s) into the engine's cooling ports).  It is not uncommon to blow out hoses, crack the radiator tank seams or damage a heater core if cylinder(s) pressure is pushing into cooling jackets or ports.

There's also the likelihood of an exhaust seat crack, which will seep coolant into a cylinder without necessarily pressurizing the cooling system.  If there is a loss of coolant/anti-freeze plus white smoke, a seeping head gasket or exhaust seat crack is likely.  

As Megatron hints, coolant in the oil would represent different issues, ranging from the minor ones like timing cover or intake manifold gasket seepage to blown head gaskets or casting cracks.  Any of the coolant leak issues could lead to oil in the coolant/radiator, from a timing cover or manifold leak to a casting crack.  A blown head gasket usually does not introduce much oil into the cooling system.

There is also the possibility of a transmission cooler leak into the radiator on a radiator with a built-in transmission cooler.  If engine oil is not getting into the radiator, transmission fluid could be getting into the radiator from the radiator transmission cooler or an auxiliary transmission cooler.  (Diesel applications often pass transmission fluid through an engine mounted cooler.)  There may also be coolant in the transmission fluid from such exchanges.

Moses

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Taking to a highly recommend diesel engine shop tomorrow. Got quotes from the local Ford dealership (get employee price plus 10%) on rebuilt heads and head bolts and on a long block. Heads/bolts about $1,450.00 after cores returned and long block about $4,700.00 after core  returned. No idea what the labor would be. Might be able to do the heads install myself but trying the long block using a engine hoist on grass and dirt not so great.

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The shop checked it and said they thought block was OK but without taking the heads off couldn't know if it was a blown head gasket or a cracked head. They were going to charge $2,300.00 in labor just for taking it apart. So going to do it myself and get the heads rebuilt if not cracked. It is sad when have spent $400.00 already and haven't even removed anything yet. $122.00 for upper gasket set, $142.00 for lifters (not taking any chances) and $147.00 for oil, filters, oil cooler seals/gaskets and assorted items.

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TxWolf53...Glad you're able to tackle this yourself.  As Megatron and I exchanged, an FSM is always helpful.  You likely can find a factory service manual at eBay or other sources if you do not have one already...Considering the dealership estimate, you'll have plenty of labor savings to pay for any special tools or extra parts.  The valve/head sublet is practical at this mileage, anyway.

Keep us posted!

Moses

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Also putting in a new oil cooler from what I have read in the posting that is the source of the oil in my coolant but no coolant in my oil. I know I have drain the coolant to do that but do I need to drain the oil or just remove the filter? I intend to flush it before the I do the head job add change the oil afterwards.

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TxWolf53...I'm guessing that you're referring to the oil filter...It might be useful to change the filter and at the same time cut the old filter canister apart to inspect for signs of coolant in the oil.  Some diesel owners and many fleet operators do crankcase drain oil analysis at each oil change, and this will also turn up any sign of anti-freeze/coolant in the engine oil.  Caterpillar, Cummins and other heavy equipment and over-the-road truck companies offer oil analysis service.  Not cheap but often very useful for evaluating the overall engine condition, including bearing and hard metal wear.

Flushing the cooling system beforehand does make sense, you want it clean for the fresh cylinder heads after they have been rebuilt.  Head work will involved hot or high pressure wash cleaning.  You do need to get the oil out of the radiator, block and heater core.  Oil can rapidly deteriorate rubber.

I would sublet the radiator for a flush and rod-out while you have the heads off.  Inspect the radiator for flow.  You will have a fresh top engine with restored compression, and this could raise horsepower and cooling/BTU demands.

Moses 

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That's always an option, TxWolf53...We enjoy your participation at the forums, and if you replace the F-truck with another one, keep us informed!

Diesels with higher mileage come with a risk.  The cost of repairs is often way beyond customary costs for working on a gasoline engine.   A balancing act...

Moses

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