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According to the wiring schematic in the PDF, Terminal #1 wire should be a fused ignition source.  This should be approximately 12 volts (actually, the battery voltage) at the wire. (Test the #1 wire at its terminal end that attaches to the buzzer module.)  If lower than battery voltage, there is a voltage drop at the ignition wire source (ignition switch, fuse block, etc.) or on the ground side.  

Check the ground to the module at Terminal #3.  Make sure there is full continuity on the ground side and no resistance or loss of voltage on that ground.  Trace the 12V source to find the voltage drop.  If everything but the buzzer module is working well on your Jeep, I would first check for a poor ground at Terminal #3 circuit.

Let us know the fix...

Moses

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I tested for voltage again at terminal one after cleaning the fuse and it has battery voltage now. same with terminal #7. I tested the ground at #3 and I put the ground at a chassis ground on the column, and I couldn't get it to show anything on the meter. is the ground the problem?

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I like your approach...You've solved a poor voltage situation on #1 and #7.  You do need continuity between the ground terminal (#3) and chassis ground according to the PDF wiring schematic.  Note that #3 goes directly to ground.  #6 is the LH door switch creating a ground when the key is in the ignition switch and the door opens.  The LH door switch closes to create a ground, this is a classic door jamb switch.

Check the continuity across the LH door switch, open and closed, this plays a significant role.  Make sure the switch creates a full ground when it closes.  These switches get make poor contact with age, in this case a poor ground.

Check the ground continuity from Terminal #3 to a solid chassis ground.  Check the continuity between each end of the #3 ground wires.

Moses

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I tested for resistance at #6 and a ground and its good. i then took a pice of wire and jammed it behind the connector #3 and I put it on a ground and checked for resistance and it was good. I then hooked up the buzzer and it still didn't go off with the door open. Is either the switch bad or the buzzer its self? 

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The door jamb switch is cheaper and easy to replace.  I'd try the switch first.  It may just be corroded if exposed to humidity or moisture. You might even be able to restore the contact surfaces of the switch and re-tension its spring.  The door switch looks like a common ground-type with an internal spring.

Moses

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I removed the jamb switch and cleaned the contacts and and the ground connection on the witch and checked the resistance, The switch is good but still nothing, it only buzzes for the seatbelt but not when the key is in the ignition.

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Umm...Ignition switch not completing the ground for the buzzer?  Follow the wiring schematic again and see why the key is not completing a ground...

Good news is that the buzzer itself works.  That expense is saved.

Moses

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