Sinisterwillys1940 Posted August 5, 2016 Share Posted August 5, 2016 The buzzer doesnt come on any more when I put the keys in the ignition and the door is open. Same with the headlights! Is there a way to test the buzzer and its connector? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Administrators Moses Ludel Posted August 8, 2016 Administrators Share Posted August 8, 2016 This should provide the information you need. Start with the usual: fuse and voltage checks, continuity tests and testing the solid state buzzer module if necessary: Jeep YJ Wrangler Buzzer System.pdf Moses Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sinisterwillys1940 Posted August 10, 2016 Author Share Posted August 10, 2016 I did the test and i got some voltage but not full 12 volts at terminal one. Does this mean its good or bad? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Administrators Moses Ludel Posted August 11, 2016 Administrators Share Posted August 11, 2016 According to the wiring schematic in the PDF, Terminal #1 wire should be a fused ignition source. This should be approximately 12 volts (actually, the battery voltage) at the wire. (Test the #1 wire at its terminal end that attaches to the buzzer module.) If lower than battery voltage, there is a voltage drop at the ignition wire source (ignition switch, fuse block, etc.) or on the ground side. Check the ground to the module at Terminal #3. Make sure there is full continuity on the ground side and no resistance or loss of voltage on that ground. Trace the 12V source to find the voltage drop. If everything but the buzzer module is working well on your Jeep, I would first check for a poor ground at Terminal #3 circuit. Let us know the fix... Moses Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sinisterwillys1940 Posted August 12, 2016 Author Share Posted August 12, 2016 I tested for voltage again at terminal one after cleaning the fuse and it has battery voltage now. same with terminal #7. I tested the ground at #3 and I put the ground at a chassis ground on the column, and I couldn't get it to show anything on the meter. is the ground the problem? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Administrators Moses Ludel Posted August 12, 2016 Administrators Share Posted August 12, 2016 I like your approach...You've solved a poor voltage situation on #1 and #7. You do need continuity between the ground terminal (#3) and chassis ground according to the PDF wiring schematic. Note that #3 goes directly to ground. #6 is the LH door switch creating a ground when the key is in the ignition switch and the door opens. The LH door switch closes to create a ground, this is a classic door jamb switch. Check the continuity across the LH door switch, open and closed, this plays a significant role. Make sure the switch creates a full ground when it closes. These switches get make poor contact with age, in this case a poor ground. Check the ground continuity from Terminal #3 to a solid chassis ground. Check the continuity between each end of the #3 ground wires. Moses Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sinisterwillys1940 Posted August 18, 2016 Author Share Posted August 18, 2016 I tested for resistance at #6 and a ground and its good. i then took a pice of wire and jammed it behind the connector #3 and I put it on a ground and checked for resistance and it was good. I then hooked up the buzzer and it still didn't go off with the door open. Is either the switch bad or the buzzer its self? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Administrators Moses Ludel Posted August 20, 2016 Administrators Share Posted August 20, 2016 The door jamb switch is cheaper and easy to replace. I'd try the switch first. It may just be corroded if exposed to humidity or moisture. You might even be able to restore the contact surfaces of the switch and re-tension its spring. The door switch looks like a common ground-type with an internal spring. Moses Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sinisterwillys1940 Posted August 21, 2016 Author Share Posted August 21, 2016 I removed the jamb switch and cleaned the contacts and and the ground connection on the witch and checked the resistance, The switch is good but still nothing, it only buzzes for the seatbelt but not when the key is in the ignition. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Administrators Moses Ludel Posted August 22, 2016 Administrators Share Posted August 22, 2016 Umm...Ignition switch not completing the ground for the buzzer? Follow the wiring schematic again and see why the key is not completing a ground... Good news is that the buzzer itself works. That expense is saved. Moses Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sinisterwillys1940 Posted October 7, 2016 Author Share Posted October 7, 2016 I have found the progblem, there is a "key in ignition switch" which completes the ground when the key is inserted into the tube. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Administrators Moses Ludel Posted October 8, 2016 Administrators Share Posted October 8, 2016 Good troubleshooting, Sinisterwillys1940! Is the remedy a new ignition switch? Moses Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sinisterwillys1940 Posted October 19, 2016 Author Share Posted October 19, 2016 A new key in ignition switch. I remember messing around with it once when I replaced the ignition tube, Its located deep in the column. In theory, after swapping them it should work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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