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Hello, I just joined and am in need of help with my 94 f-150 with e40d trans and EFI, i changed the steering wheel and did not plug up the OD button, but it shifts into over drive at 45 to 55 mph. it stumbles and/or stalls in reverse and 1st gears! how ever it only does this after it warms up. when i 1st start it and it is cold it works fine, it only does this after it gets warmed up. Then when i drive and get to around 50 to 65 mph and just try to maintain those speeds it stumbles much like it has a miss jerking the truck! I just changed the torque converter and trans fluid. fluid is full. The fluid I put in it is "Valvoline Max Life full synthetic DEX/MERC, Mercon' LV". oh and about 6 years ago i put in a new solenoid pack. but after warm up, if i pull it down in 1st gear at a dead stop with foot on brake, it stumbles then it will catch back up and stumble again, same in reverse, sometimes it dies. I changed 'IAC' with new one and cleaned body. I looked for air leaks as best I could, but since I,m 69 years old i can't hear that good any more lol. I could not find any. I tried to pull codes with the only tester i have a "INNOVA 3145 Ford Digital Code Reader", it plugs in under the hood. codes I got was 6-10-542-634, then did it again and done the brake an gas flooring and got 225 no knock code and 632 no OD plugged up. I don't know how to pull codes for the transmission!
 My 1st Q is, will not having the OD plugged up cause this? If not where do I go from here?
Thanks for any help

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Hi, EDSford...Welcome to the forums, thanks for joining us!  The 632 code would be expected since you cannot switch the O/D on and off, which is required during the KOER (Key On Engine Running) test.  As you note, the 225 code is the knock sensor.  You could troubleshoot the knock sensor further to see if this is a fault or not.  If could simply be the result of your stall testing the system...The O/D code will continue as long as your O/D switch is disconnected.

You did the right thing by clearing the codes before attempting to store new codes.  The earlier codes were as follows:

1) 6 = #6 cylinder has low performance or "balance" compared to other cylinders.

2) 10 = #1 cylinder low

3) 542 = Fuel pump circuit failure

4) 634 = Neutral drive switch (NDS) circuit failure

Based on your trouble symptoms, I would suggest that the 634 code is random unless it pops up again, in which case that would be worth exploring though unrelated to your misfire and bucking.  The other three codes are very telling and, I believe, related.  When random cylinders throw imbalance or misfire codes (unrelated to ignition faults or the need for plug wires and/or spark plugs), the issue is usually narrowed to a common fault.  Likewise with the fuel pump circuit failure code.

Rule out the fuel pump failure code by making sure the fuel filter is not clogged.  Check the actual pump pressure and volume if necessary to rule out trouble with the pickup filter in the tank.  If the pump and fuel pressure/volume are okay, I'm thinking either a fault with the crankshaft position sensor (intermittent or constant trouble) or an ECM/ECU contact issue.  Something "universal" is going on.  If you had a cylinder imbalance code for either #6 or #1 by itself, that could be low compression—though doubtful.  

It's not coincidental that #1 and #6 cylinders show this imbalance or reveal a possible cause for your engine's stumbling.  You have either a 302 V-8 or 4.6L/5.4L Triton V-8, in any case the firing order is 1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8.  Note that #1 and #6 are opposite each other in the firing order.  #1 is the reference signal for the fuel and spark management.  You could have a poor reference signal, which would cause misfire and stumbling, either fuel or ignition related.  

I would check the crankshaft position sensor for dirt, debris, a poor connection or a defect.  If there is oil on the CPS reference signal, that can be an issue.  You changed the torque converter, did that create a reference signal issue?

These are places to start.  Look for the universal kind of problem, don't spend money on injectors for cylinders that are randomly showing fault codes, it's seldom the injector itself.  Use further diagnostics to pinpoint rather than taking a "parts replacement" strategy.  Electrical connections, including the ECU/ECM connectors, can often create these issues.

I'm here with more thoughts...

Moses

 

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thank you for your help and thoughts! I did not pull codes before changing converter. The back fuel pump shows how much gas is in the tank, but does not pump. The person I bought the truck from said he thought some one put sugar in the tank! which makes me believe the check valve is bad or the pick up is clogged or the whole thing is just old and needs replaced! I think I remember draining the tank but not sure, now the tank shows almost full. which leads me to think I might be loosing pressure from the front pump through the check valve. In any case I will replace the pump and clean the tank!

The motor is a straight 6. I will do a compression check, to make sure. I replace the motor when it rolled over at 300k with a short block and it ran good. I will also check and record all I have checked. the truck has a 250 rear end and I like it, I'm just not the smart kid on the block when it comes to transmission and motors!

I still work so I figure this will take some time, I hope you can find the time to keep me going in the right direction. I do want to retire with this truck in good order.

I will check all I can and post back as soon as I can.

again Thank you for all you do!

I will have a look at the CPS but 1st have to figure out where it is,,,lol.

 

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EDSford...You're welcome...See my red comments within your quote below...Moses

thank you for your help and thoughts! I did not pull codes before changing converter. The back fuel pump shows how much gas is in the tank, but does not pump. The person I bought the truck from said he thought some one put sugar in the tank! which makes me believe the check valve is bad or the pick up is clogged or the whole thing is just old and needs replaced! I think I remember draining the tank but not sure, now the tank shows almost full. which leads me to think I might be loosing pressure from the front pump through the check valve. In any case I will replace the pump and clean the tank!

This could be your stumble and miss.  Lack of fuel or fuel pressure...Sounds like a fuel pump module and tank flush at some point soon...

The motor is a straight 6. I will do a compression check, to make sure. I replace the motor when it rolled over at 300k with a short block and it ran good. I will also check and record all I have checked. the truck has a 250 rear end and I like it, I'm just not the smart kid on the block when it comes to transmission and motors!

The 300 six is a terrific, seven-main bearing engine.  I thoroughly rebuilt our youngest son's '87 MPI 300 in the mid-'nineties when he was in high school.  Fun to build with great results. As a light and medium duty truck fleet mechanic early in my adult life, I've liked the 300 and 240 inline sixes since their introduction in 1965, a milestone for Ford.  The only quirk or shortfall is excessive factory bearing clearance on the mains.  If you have a start-up rattle, I'll fill you in on one of the odd warranty solutions Ford recommended around these engines.

I still work so I figure this will take some time, I hope you can find the time to keep me going in the right direction. I do want to retire with this truck in good order.

Good...I am very familiar with the F150, is it a 4x4 or 2WD?  Short bed?  The E4OD is unusual for a six.  Most have a manual transmission.  Our '87 4x4 had the rugged NP435 without an overdrive.  Mileage might have been better with O/D, however, this transmission's non-synchromesh compound first gear is a major asset.

I will check all I can and post back as soon as I can.

again Thank you for all you do!

I will have a look at the CPS but 1st have to figure out where it is,,,lol.

 

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That's great to hear, the truck is a 2wd long bed.

As soon as I can i am going to check all plugs including wires and Dist cap, then check the wire plugins for oil because when the front trans bearing and converter went out it soaked the whole trans with fluid. Besides all the plugins are old, and I am reading up on the CPS now and plan on checking the timing as well.

I don't have any rattle when it starts.

What throws me for a loop is the shifting problem only happens after it warms up!

Just got home from work, have to shower and eat, I hope to know more in the upcoming days, and will keep posting info as i get it.

Thanks again

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Sorry it took so long to update this "Working is such a good thing,,lol"

over this weekend I checked all the plugs-plug wires and cap and rotor, all were good and new, as I thought but could not remember. I changed a few vacuum lines, not much help. I changed the MAP sensor thinking it might help with stumbling while driving, it did not help.

I am waiting to get it in a friends shop so we can get under it to check the CPS and all the wires and plugs under it. Including the ones that go to the tranny, as well as all ground wires.

I am thinking I should go ahead and replace the CPS while I can, because it is old and not that much.

From there, if it does not fix the problem. I will follow your lead ok?

Thanks again

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EDSford...The existing CPS can be tested, though like you say, it's not that expensive to replace.  I'm still thinking fuel supply symptoms, comes down to fuel pump flow and volume of fuel available...Keep us posted...

Moses

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