Front wheel flange refurbishment

[60Bubba]

The team is arriving next Saturday for the gear party.  BBQ, beer, gears and grease...how could you top that for a Saturday?

In preparation, I've been working on the bearings and axles on both ends.  When this is done, I'll have new bearings and seals all around, plus new Superwinch hubs and a homegrown rear disc conversion for the AMC20.  Additionally, the AMC20 is getting an Eaton Truetrac for some added traction to go with the 4.10 gears.

As I've been working on these projects, I'm trying to upgrade or refresh things as I can.  I wanted to do a 6 bolt conversion on the front wheel flange, but given everything else, that will have to wait for a later date.  As a consolation prize, I sourced the studs and toplock nuts needed to complete the stud conversion for my 5 bolt flanges.  I will mention that when I tore everything down, one hub was nice and tight, but on the other, ALL 5 bolts were just slightly past finger tight.  Glad I caught it when I did.  The pictures of these hubs when they blow are ugly.

Anyway, it may not be as strong as the 6 bolt design, but I think with threadlocker and the new studs, I'll be OK.  It made it 33 years on the stock parts after all! Here are some pictures of today's work.  It took a couple hours just to get the flanges off the rotors and get them cleaned up.  I knocked out the old races with a punch and cleaned out all the old grease.  I got to use the new press again, this time with the $35 Amazon Special race/seal press kit.  I'm really loving having the right tools for this job! I finished with some caliper paint for the flanges.  They made the outside look nice, and I hope they will keep the flanges from seizing to the rotors again.

 

Moses, in the J.O. Bible you suggest using an air chisel to separate the flanges and rotors.  I took this advice.  It worked great, but still took 15-20 minutes.  Is that just because they were rusted together, or are the wheel studs a press fit in the rotor AND the flange?  After the flange popped off, the wheel studs fell out of the rotors.  I'm worried about spinning a stud when I reassemble.  Should I consider new wheel studs, and/or do I need to get new rotors?

If there are any other CJ guys contemplating the stud conversion, you can spend $75 to buy a kit (if you can find it) or you can get the parts at NAPA.  The other stores just looked at me when I asked for exhaust studs.  Actually, that's not true.  I asked for exhaust studs and they said "what car is it for?" so they could look it up in the computer.  When I told them it wasn't for exhaust, so I couldn't give them a vehicle to look up, then they just looked at me

Case

[Moses Ludel]

60Bubba...Exhaust studs are at least Grade 5, sometimes higher to handle the heat cycling...As for the wheel bolt/stud removal, let's clarify for those who do not have copy of my book:  You drive the wheel studs out with a blunt point (chisel) attached to an air hammer  This is not chiseling between the rotor and flange but rather driving out individual studs with the air hammer.  The force concentrates on the wheel bolt/stud and breaks it loose from the serrations on the flange or rotor.

If there are cut serrations through both the rotor holes and the flange holes, the press fit is through the rotor and the hub flange...Usually the use of new studs will provide slightly more of an interference fit and make for a secure fit through the rotor and/or hub flange.  Some aftermarket studs have slightly oversize serrations to compensate for scale, erosion and wear on the hole shoulders.  Make sure the shoulders do not interfere with the wheel.

Stubborn studs are not unusual.  Sometimes I resort to the use of the hydraulic press and back up the flange around the stud.  Be careful to support the area surrounding the stud head.  A deep set impact level socket or similar tooling will work if made stable...Otherwise, the flange/rotor can bend or warp under pressure.

If the rotors have a good deal of rust and scale, the OEM serrations can be sloppy after stud removal.  The use of the air hammer and blunt pointed tool or a press provides a better chance that you can reuse parts like the rotor and flange. Beating the wheel studs out with a hammer is far more likely to damage the serrated surfaces of the rotor and hub flange.

Have you resolved the stud fitment yet?  If not, we can discuss this further, Case.  I'm really pleased that you're building up your tool inventory and using the press when practical.

Moses

Edited November 7, 2015 by Moses Ludel

[60Bubba]

The new 4.10 gears, a Truetrac for the AMC20 and a Spartan locker for the front went in last weekend.  I've been working to put everything back together.  Today I got the front axles back together and put on the rear disc conversion.  I just need to pull the residual valve from the master cylinder, install a 2psi residual valve, and install an adjustable proportioning valve before I can get back on the road.

 

[Moses Ludel]

Wow, major brake upgrade, Case!  What's the source/donor model for the rear disc brakes?  You have plenty of braking now...Glad you're addressing the residual valve pressure, otherwise the rear pads will drag on the rotors.  Good!

Use care with the adjustable proportioning valve.  Start off with very light rear pressure and gradually move up to balanced brakes.  Too much rear braking can throw the vehicle into a spin.  Test on a deserted road or, preferably, a large, empty parking lot.  Let us know what you do with the settings...

Moses