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"devil" started this topic at the Ford E4OD transmission thread.  I moved the question here for replies on the subject:  "My 1988 Ford F150 302 V-8 engine cranks then bogs.  Won't start.  Battery goes dead quickly.  Changed coil, ignition module, distributor cap, should be on top dead center. Had starter checked is good. Getting gas can smell it. What else could i check?  What could be wrong?"—devil

 

devil...Check the engine codes.  Years ago, I purchased an inexpensive code reader for our 1987 Ford F150 4x4.  It simply plugs into the diagnostic socket and will recover codes.  (Auto Zone and others will read codes for free.)  If you can't drive to the store, that's another story. 

 

Here's the Auto Zone offering for the scanner:  http://www.autozone.com/test-scan-and-specialty-tools/code-reader/actron-obd-i-code-scanner/2396_0_0/.  If there is not a stored code, we can discuss this further...For $15, the tool is well worth having.

 

Moses

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Could be the timing chain...I have a quick check for timing chain wear that I've shared at these forums: http://forums.4wdmechanix.com/topic/174-quick-test-for-engine-timing-chain-wear/?hl=%2Btiming+%2Bchain.

 

Check this out and test for a worn timing chain. Could be very loose, could even jump a tooth, which can cause valve interference.  Bent valves will show up as low compression in a compression test.

Moses

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Timing chain tests okay, devil?  Resistance at the engine can be starter drain or a weak or worn starter.  Ford starters of this vintage have a distinct service life.  You can test the starter draw with an induction meter for starters.  This is an inexpensive tool like the code reader.  I have a K-D meter that reads amperage from the surface of the starter cable.  The tool is over 30 years old.

 

Another method is to use a voltmeter to see how much voltage drop occurs while cranking.  Test away from the battery in case the battery is defective.  You don't want to create a spark near a battery emitting hydrogen gas, or you can cause an explosion!  A good test point would be the starter solenoid end of the positive battery cable.  Have someone crank the engine while you observe the voltage drop.  If very low (9 or less volts), either the battery is defective, or the starter is drawing too much amperage or the engine has too much friction.

 

You can have the battery tested for free at an AutoZone, O'Reilly's or NAPA store.  The starter can also be load tested on the work bench with the right test equipment.  Worn starters are common, and your trouble could be either battery or starter related.

 

If you are concerned about internal engine friction, disconnect the coil leads to disable the ignition.  KEY OFF, rotate the crankshaft with a ratchet or breaker bar and socket.  See whether the crankshaft turns with reasonable, uniform resistance from compression.

 

Moses

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devil...Did you remove the distributor or move the distributor housing?  If so, the spark timing could be too far advanced.  Did you fiddle with the timing, advance it or retard it?  Bogging like you describe can also be radically advanced spark timing or crossed spark plug wires...Verify base timing and carefully check the routing of spark plug wires at the cap.  This could be the trouble...

 

Moses

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the truck was working one day and then tried to start it and it turned over but would not start up so we belived the timing was off changed the silinoid stater was checked autozone said it passed coil was changed distributor cap was changed when i move the cranck shaft its kinda  hard to turn then its kind of easier to turn then goes back to kinda hard to turn getting spark and getting gas but battery still drains kinda quick even when on a charger timing chain not broke checked that im tryin to go for the easy stuff first before plunging into replacing the timing chain i have got the bottom tdc but not the top so as it was getting cranked i moved the distributor to see if i could get it to fire that way or even any closer and still nothing had the distributor tested as well ignition mod was changed all spark plug wires are on fire order i double checked that twice

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devil...Make sure the timing indexes with TDC on the compression stroke for #1 cylinder.  Ignition disabled, verify that the rotor points toward #1 cylinder at TDC with the timing mark aligned on the crankshaft.  Then verify the spark wire firing order and the routing of wires to the plugs.

 

When you rotate the crankshaft with the ignition disabled, you should feel resistance from compression.  If this is confusing, remove all of the spark plugs and turn the crankshaft several rotations.  With the plugs removed, the resistance should be uniform with every turn of the ratchet and socket.  You'd only be opening and closing the valves.  Resistance would be little more than valve spring load.

 

Moses

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