Progress on the "Unintentional" Frame-Off Jeep CJ-7 Rebuild

[60Bubba]

I stopped by the body shop today and got to see my tub and a door painted.  This is from my 1983 CJ-7 as seen in my avatar.  The new color is Cosmos blue from the 2011/2012 Jeep Wrangler.  I originally planned to Rhino line the tub interior and paint the exterior only.  One thing led to another and I ended up with a bare rolling chassis.  I ended up having them Rhino Line the tub and fenders inside and underneath with the blue on the exterior surfaces.  I hope the Rhino Liner holds up well in Tennessee when I move next spring.

 

I've got almost entirely new pieces parts including a stainless hardware kit.  The interior was previously the spice color, but the previous owner replaced the seats with black.  The boss lady preferred the black seats, so I'm swapping everything else over to black to match.  Quadratec is having an open bar at their holiday party because of my patronage...

 

60Bubba

[Moses Ludel]

Terrific color and planning, 60Bubba...Really like your long range perspective around this project.  The Jeep will definitely be a keeper and should survive the Tennessee climate well.  Smart choices and great workmanship here! 

 

Glad you did the Rhino Liner, this provides assured adhesion on a well-prepped tub and prevents surprises like rust exfoliation beneath a coating of driveway "spray can" liner.

 

The Quadratec comment is priceless...

 

Moses

[spdljohn]

Looks good.  Turns out my body was rusted too bad.  Im making a trip this weekend from my home in south carolina to suwanee georgia to pick up a new body kit from east coast jeeps.  Haven't settled on a color yet but leaning towards dark gun metal grey.  

 

David

[Tim]

Looks good.  Turns out my body was rusted too bad.  Im making a trip this weekend from my home in south carolina to suwanee georgia to pick up a new body kit from east coast jeeps.  Haven't settled on a color yet but leaning towards dark gun metal grey.  

 

David

 

Dave, 

 

My buddy is turning towards this route. It would be nice if you can maybe provide a mini-review on your thoughts on the new body. He attempted to repair the sheet metal himself on his rig, at the same time he was teaching himself to weld with a Harbor Freight special. Needless to say he ran into a lot of frustration . 

[spdljohn]

Tim, I will definitely do that.  The body is actually being shipped over from omix ada in suwannee ga.  I live in south carolina and was going to go over with my trailer and pick it up directly from the warehouse but they are running a special right now with free shipping so I said forget going over.

It should be here this week or next.  My plan is to go ahead and paint the engine compartment and underside of the body myself in my shop (not sure with what yet, possibly POR 15) and then go ahead and mount it on the frame and take it to the body shop for the rest of the painting.  

 

That way I can go ahead and drill all holes, and mount whatever needs to be mounted under the body and in the engine compartment.

Alternatively I have to drill holes, assemble and then essentially disassemble the jeep, take the body back off the frame to get it to the painter's for them to paint the underside and engine compartment.

 

Ill be posting pics.

 

David

[60Bubba]

It doesn't look like much progress, but I've got the tub centered and bolted down, and my pedals are back in.  I've been disassembling, cleaning, and in many cases painting most things as I go.  It still amazes me how many little parts Jeep never bothered to prime or paint. I'm also surprised at how many things are not present in a stainless steel "full body" hardware kit...

 

David, I hope your body pickup went smoothly, and I hope it fits well.  I've read numerous frame up restoration threads, some went more smoothly than others!.  It seems like the MD Juan Philippine-made tubs need more "encouragement" than the other options.  Good luck

 

 

[Moses Ludel]

The spray-in Rhino Lining was definitely the way to go...This is a deja vu for me, I recall my 1989 trip to a north San Diego County early Rhino franchise.  The entire crew came out to see what this lining job entailed.  It was a first, literally.  Louis Russo at the El Cajon area did a terrific prep and seal job prior to the spray-in liner, and I'd venture to say that Jeep CJ-5, an early '80s model like yours, is likely still rust free.  It was an OFF-ROAD Magazine project and has embellished my Jeep Owner's Bible since the first edition, released in 1992.  To date, I've kept that CJ-5 in the book through two update editions...

 

Nice work, you'll have a phenomenal Jeep when this is all done...

 

Moses

[60Bubba]

I've sort of been working in the engine bay to get as many items installed as possible before I put the fenders back in place.  That included installing the Centech engine bay side and under dash harnesses, though they aren't permanently mounted yet.  Also, I got an awesome new Borgeson steering shaft and new washer fluid and coolant overflow bottles in place. Here's a little info on each job.

 

The Centech harness has worked out very well so far.  My initial plan was to use a Painless harness, but their new Jeep CJ harness is close to $800!! I decided that I could manage with the Centech harness which is about $420 with the fuse panel upgrade.  Their fuse block is not exactly like stock, but I like that I can take off the cover and see exactly what is on the battery, ignition and accessory circuits.  Also, they don't use a factory style firewall connector and the rear harness has Weatherpak connectors for the lights.  My first impression was these were corners cut to save some money, but my opinion has changed.  They claim that their firewall connector is better than factory as it is weatherproof (each wire has a gasket where it passes through).  After seeing the black gunk inside my original connector, I can believe their claim.  Also, the Weatherpak connectors out back seem to make sense.  Those connectors are pretty exposed to road grit.  It isn't a matter of not trying to get factory connectors, as they use those on the front harness.  Also, I have to assume the Weatherpak connectors cost more.  Finally, they modified my harness to work better with my fuel injected engine.  I think they would have customized further had I known what to ask them to leave off, such as the choke and emissions control wiring.

 

The Borgeson shaft is another huge upgrade.  My previous Jeep CJ-5 had a worn out steering shaft that was downright unsafe, so it got replaced with stock parts.  This time, I decided to splurge a bit on an upgraded model.  After seeing the new one with needle bearings and elimination of the stock "tulip" fitting, I'm completely sold.  The slop is gone, and I suspect this setup will last longer than the original.

 

My only complaint with this rebuild thus far has been the Omix-Ada and Rugged Ridge components.  I have a love-hate relationship with that company.  It's awesome someone is still making all the little fiddly parts needed to truly rebuild one of these vehicles, but damn, their quality control and fit and finish leaves something to be desired most times...

 

 

[60Bubba]

By the way, I forgot to give a shout out to Dan Dilner at Double D Fabrications.  He sells Jeep CJ dash panels in every possible stock configuration plus any modification you could imagine.  He gets the panels laser cut and will make them in mild steel or stainless.  I used mild steel and had it painted to match with the Cosmos Blue.  One cool feature he offers is custom speaker grill cutouts.  He can create any design that will fit in the stock spacing.  I saw an iron cross design and several others I liked, but I chickened out and went stock.  The basic panels are 16 ga. mild steel.  I don't know what the factory panels were, but the new one is noticeably heavier.

[spdljohn]

Looks great.  Envious of your progress.  Just got my frame back from the welder yesterday. Already got its first coat of POR 15 on.

[60Bubba]

Today was one of those days where I went from being thrilled with progress to wanting to dump a jerry can of gas on the Jeep and throw a match.  I got the engine wiring harness complete and started working on the dash harness.  I was able to get the engine running smoothly which was a huge win.  I drove it around the neighborhood, but without a windshield, I'm limited.

 

I had the usual Jeep CJ issues trying to get the headlights and marker lights working.  Ultimately, it was a ground issue, which wasn't surprising. Anyone who paints all the parts separate from one another (no bare metal touching like from the factory) needs to plan to add some extra grounds.  Thankfully, I had been down this road before so I knew how to trouble shoot.  I added a direct ground from the new harness firewall connector to the parking lights in the grill.  Everything including the Quadratec LED tailights are working perfectly.

 

I managed to scrape some of the new paint off while trying to position the hood.  I guess I add that to the punch list.  Overall, it was a pretty successful two days. 

[60Bubba]

I think it's about time to update the avatar...

[Moses Ludel]

60Bubba...The color is terrific, great choice...Didn't realize you're rewiring the Jeep, too.  That's a major, though you've made real progress here. 

 

The scratch is on par for the course, and I have a touch up cure when you're ready, you'll never find the spot once fixed.  Here's my story:  I built my '81 Jeep CJ-5 project for OFF-ROAD Magazine and had garage space like yours (i.e., none to spare).  The Jeep was together and ready for the SCORE Show at Anaheim, we lived at Oakridge, Oregon, and I was leaving for SoCal in two days.  The paint was new but cured, fortunately, and had never been down a road. 

 

My youngest son, 11 at the time, rode his bicycle into the single car garage alongside the Jeep, scraping a hand brake lever for six inches against the right rear quarter...A 3/16" swath of color went to primer gray immediately.  You get the visual.

 

When you're ready for my paint "fix", also outlined in the Jeep Owner's Bible, I'll provide some coaching.  Presume you have matching touch-up from the body shop.

 

Moses

[60Bubba]

Moses,

 

I'll look forward to the tip. I'm pretty sure I saw a package come in from the mail that was the correct shape for a copy of the Jeep Owner's Bible! In my case, the body shop still has some touch up work to do with the new paint color, so I think they'll fix everything for me.  This isn't going to be a show quality paint job, but considering I specifically had them leave the waves from the factory spot welds, I didn't see any point in trying to make it perfect.

 

I read the comment about Grade 5 versus Grade 8 in the other thread, but I moved my response here to avoid a continuous thread jack.  I do understand about ductility.  I'm far from an expert, but I had a 4 week metallurgy class as part of my Navy Aviation Safety Officer course.  As part of our final exam we went to a warehouse of crashed aircraft parts and tried to determine what damage was occurred during the crash versus failure that may have caused the crash.  Pretty interesting stuff. I'll try to get a better picture of the shock nuts next time I'm working.  Am I correct that the dot pattern is equivalent to the lines on bolt heads, i.e., 3 means grade 5, etc.?

 

As for the wiring, it was really necessary I felt.  The under dash harness was a basket case, and the work done by the shop that did the fuel injection install and the more recent 4.0 swap left much to be desired.  It's not quite as neat and tidy as I had hoped, but it's a huge improvement.  I have no personal experience with Painless harnesses, but after using the Centech harness, I can't see spending the hundreds of extra dollars the Painless product would have cost.  I think they have an older model that is not completely terminated (same as Centech) and is about $200 less than their "Cadillac" model harness, but it's still more than $100 more than the Centech product, and doesn't include a sealed firewall connector or the Weatherpack tail light connectors.  I think Centech is a good product and the best compromise between the $785 Painless harness and some of the $199 specials that have no terminated connectors at all and require significant fabrication.

[spdljohn]

Thats looking great.  I too like your color choice.

 

David

[Moses Ludel]

60Bubba...Correct about U.S. grade markings:  3 marks is Grade 5;  4 is Grade 6;  5 is Grade 7; and Grade 8 is 6 marks or dots...

 

I like your wiring harness, the firewall connector and Weatherpack at vulnerable tail lamp connectors is a big plus, too.  That firewall junction makes a huge difference in reliability.  EFI systems require accurate voltage readings without voltage "drops".  Keep in mind that D.C. means the grounds are just as important as the hot side.  You got a hint of this already.

 

Once you have your wires aligned, invest in quality convolution tubing at several sizes.  I find this at MSC Direct (similar to McMaster-Carr) in 50' or longer length rolls, much less costly than horsing around with 10 foot packaging at the local auto supply.  (Likely the wiring kit did not include convolution tubing.)  You can use quality electrical tape at the ends.  I wrap tape around the tubing alongside wires that exit from the split tubing before ends.  It's also smart and attractive to tape the "Y" junctions where tubing sections come together.

 

Moses

[60Bubba]

Moses,

 

Good tip about the corrugated wire loom.  I'm pleased to say that Centech included it on all three sections of the harness.  Right now, the only parts that aren't covered are a few 12V wires to the starter solenoid.  I have enough left over to do that once I'm sure I'm done adding to those wires. Also, they used some kind of "T" connectors that allow you to cover three different runs of wire where they meet to form a joint.  Actually, they covered five runs by putting the two smaller ones in the crotch of the T fitting on either side.  Pretty slick, and they can be removed and reinstalled without falling apart.  I had to add a few spare grounds and was able to run them in the existing wire looms.  I'll try to get some pictures of one of those joints.

[Moses Ludel]

60Bubba...Sounds like you're covered with convolution tubing, a good kit from Centech!  Looking forward to the photos...

 

Moses

[60Bubba]

I did a lot of little jobs and unfortunately didn't take many photos.  I was in a rush to get all the street legal requirements like horn, license plates, etc. plus put the the hard top on.  I needed to get the Jeep back to the body shop so they could install my windshield and hardtop glass.  I've driven around the neighborhood, but this was the first big trip out.  I managed to pick the windiest day we've had in weeks to drive with no windshield.  Everything worked well, and there were no fires, so I say mission accomplished.

 

I had some difficulty with the left windshield frame side bolts.  One was broken off in the frame and below the level of the threads, and neither hole lined up with the new stainless hinges.  I was initially irritated with the hinges, but after reading several posts on other forums, it seems many have problems with aftermarket hinges.  I wonder if somewhere along the production cycle the frame jig and the templates the aftermarket are using diverged...I ended up drilling our both holes and using helicoil thread repair inserts.  These seem to be designed for blind holes, but I used them in the windshield frame by installing them and then putting superglue on the threads to lock the helicoil to the newly tapped threads.  I suspect this is not exactly a Moses-Approved repair, but for a low-torque application, I felt like it was sufficient. I also had to use a die grinder to open up the hinge holes to get everything to line up.  I added sealant behind the new hinges to seal them to the windshield frame, as the the stainless hinges are not sealed to the body by paint like the originals.

 

I got the last of the dash wiring done, and all of my dash lights including the 4WD light and clock work for the first time since I bought the jeep.  I was able to get a local plastic supplier to make me new plexiglass lens for the clock.  I heard nothing but bad reports on the aftermarket clock, so I decided to follow some advice on other forums and just replace the lens on my otherwise functional clock.  I have dimensions if anyone else needs to complete this repair.

 

I had some difficulties reassembling the doors, as the Omix-Ada exterior door handles are not designed correctly.  I'm at a loss to understand how they think the parts I was sent are suitable. At any rate, I'm doorless for the time being, but I can live without them more easily than I can live without glass!

[Moses Ludel]

60Bubba...Well, at least the aftermarket hinges are consistent:  My '81 CJ-5 built in 1989-90 had aftermarket chrome and stainless pieces.  None of them fit right either.  I spent about the same time you have straightening and compromising the parts alignment.

 

Your Super Glue on the Heli-Coil inserts should be okay, you merely had to secure the hardware in place until the screws "locked" the coils under tension.  Moses would use Loctite 271 Red on the outside of the Heli-Coil threads, install them while the Loctite is still wet and uncured, let the Loctite cure completely, then install the screws and torque them. 

 

I really like your clock lens fix, the dash looks classically fantastic.  Nice photos, too!  All is on par for the aftermarket parts course.  Be content that the factory pieces did not fit much better...Your Jeep is really looking good, it will all be worth it at the end...Assure your wife and have a nice New Year's dinner out—away from the CJ-7 for an evening...

 

Moses

[60Bubba]

So I haven't made much progress recently, as the body shop has had the CJ since before New Year's.  They were supposed to be reinstalling the windshield and hardtop glass in the new gaskets (Omix-Ada) I bought since my old ones were covered in paint from the last slam and spray paint job.  Not surprisingly, I called for a progress report this afternoon and they hadn't started on it.

 

They called later to say the gaskets didn't fit.  I went and looked at them with the manager and the tech who pulled the glass initially.  The Omix-Ada gasket for the hardtop glass was several inches too long in all dimensions.  I can't see any way these parts would ever fit!  Maybe there were supposed to be instructions about running them through the dryer first to shrink them?

 

I've spent most of the evening using aircraft paint stripper to remove as much of the overspray from the old gaskets as possible.  They are in decent shape considering their age, so I think they'll survive re-installation.

 

I found a new windshield gasket at a local glass shop, but if anyone knows of a source for hardtop gaskets other than the Omix-Ada stuff, please let me know.

[AZ.Jay]

Just got caught up on all of your picures, that looks fantastic!

[Moses Ludel]

Case, try 4WD Hardware and Quadratec on the hardtop gaskets.  Is the top OEM?  Make sure you're matching the pieces if aftermarket.  ACME and others built hard replacement tops...ACME would be another source, they should know Jeep tops very well: http://www.acmejeepparts.com/products/product_search.php?cn=Hardtops&c=103.

 

Moses

[60Bubba]

The top is OEM, it was originally Spice brown with the Jamaica Beige for the rest of the Jeep.  Sometime about 15 years ago, it got a cheap paint job.  The painter painted the top Jamaica Beige to match the rest of the Jeep.  The gaskets I bought were the "OEM" replacement models from Omix Ada.  A couple came from Quadratec and the others were from some vendor on Amazon, but all were in the original Omix-Ada packaging.  The body shop cried uncle today on re-installing the glass.  Thankfully, they quit before they broke any of the original glass.  I took it to a local glass shop.  It's actually where I ordered the second replacement windshield gasket.  They seemed to be happy to work with the Omix-Ada parts, even if they had to do some trimming.

 

I'll post some pictures when I get it back tomorrow. Wish us luck!

[Moses Ludel]

Good luck, Case!  I find the commercial glass shops savvy, they deal with these issues all the time and have the commercial bonders to tack rubber together successfully.  They know this rubber compound.  You did the wisest, cost effective thing.  Locally, I would be knocking on the door at "Fast Glass".

 

Waiting to see the results...!

 

Moses

[60Bubba]

I was finally able to pick the Jeep up this afternoon.  The glass shop was able to install the new windshield gasket, the new liftgate gasket, and both original hardtop quarter glass gaskets.  They added a bit of sealant based on their past experience with CJ's leaking even with brand new gaskets.  We'll see how well that works out once I get to Memphis and a wetter climate. 

 

It's time to finish up the detail work.  I have a variable pitch whine in the new radio.  My modest research indicates this is a sign of alternator interference.  I'll spend a little time working on it, but given this is a new wire harness and a new radio, I may just take it to a car stereo shop to troubleshoot the interference.

 

Tomorrow I'll put in the wipers in, install the refinished fender flares and put in a permanent ground for the fuel sender.  I got some KC Daylighters for Christmas, so I'm excited to install those as well.  Pictures coming as I make some more progress.

[Moses Ludel]

Do you have time to click a few pics for David (spdljohn) on his crossmember and hanger issue?  That may provide some direction...

 

Thanks!

 

Moses

[60Bubba]

WILCO.

[60Bubba]

Here's what the Jeep looks like today.  I finally had most of my legal requirements re-installed (don't tell the gate guards the windshield wipers aren't there), so I drove it onto base for work.  I'll get picks of the rear shackle hanger this afternoon for David. 

 

I'm pretty pleased with how the fender flares turned out, and the Totally Stainless T-bolts for the sill guards are great.  They're definitely worth the money if you have those to install on a Jeep.

 

The doors are rebuilt and should go back on this weekend. I ended up polishing my old exterior door paddles and using the gaskets and the little rubber bumpers from the new handles.  Using two new handles is a pretty wasteful way just to get a couple gaskets and rubber parts, but I didn't have many other options.

 

I'm hoping the body shop gets the bull bar and bumper ends painted next week so I can install my new KC Daylighters.  I've wanted to put some of those on a vehicle since I was a little kid...

 

 

[Moses Ludel]

Case, this is a stunning example of a Jeep CJ-7 restoration, the reason many revere these late CJs!  With your commitment and patience, the Jeep has been totally transformed.  What a role model for others!

 

Moses

[60Bubba]

Moses,

 

Thanks for your encouragement, it certainly means a lot coming from such a well known figure in Jeepdom

 

I was sitting here looking at my last group of pictures, and I noticed how much better my door latch mechanism looked as compared to how it looked when I removed it.  I thought I would share a few secrets I utilized.  Actually, I doubt these will come as much of a shock, but hey, it gives me a chance to pretend to be a trend setter.

 

I do a very little bit of brass cartridge reloading as another time suck when I'm not taking Jeeps apart in my garage.  I use a Hornady sonic cleaner to clean my brass.  There are probably hundreds of similar products, and I know Harbor Freight sells some very inexpensive models.  I didn't bother with any fancy pre-made solutions, I just used hot water and some liquid dish soap to help cut the grease.  This machine does 30 minute max cycles, and I ended up running each latch for 2 cycles.

 

I had already soaked the parts in solvent and scrubbed them at length.  The visible parts were in decent shape, but when I operated the latch manually it still felt gritty.  I really didn't want to put them back in like that.  After the cleaner, I had smooth operating parts and a cleaner tub full of silt, paint flakes, and other bits of unrecognizable gunk.

 

A third hobby of mine is cycling.  I like to ride, and in high school I worked in a bike shop for a few years.  The mechanics introduced me to a few lubricant products I still use today.  For this application, I chose White Lightning.  It is a solvent-borne wax lube.  You have to shake it well before each use to mix the two components back together.  It applies as a very runny translucent liquid, but the solvent evaporates quickly and leaves behind a layer of wax.  As the wax gets dirty, the dirty layer flakes off and leaves a clean, lubricated surface behind, or at least that's their story.  I like it, and I thought a gunk-free option would be better in the doors that won't be taken apart often.

 

At any rate, I'm happy with the outcome, and maybe this will give someone a tip on how to use some non-automotive specific tools and supplies.

 

[AZ.Jay]

That's a great looking jeep, Case!

[Moses Ludel]

Thanks for the tips, Case, very handy!  What I like about your "White Lightning" is its full dry and evaporation of the solvent.  Oily penetrants and solvents like WD-40 attract dirt, which can include abrasive dust in a Jeep 4x4 driven through backcountry...The door mechanism and handle cover look great!

 

On plastic restoration with oxidized surfaces, I use 303 Aerospace Protectant, which not only cleans the surface of plastic, leather and canvas, it also provides a UV barrier/blocker.  Unlike popular silicone oil based products, 303 will not degrade the chemical "top coat" of vinyl.  Used on a dash pad, 303 will provide an "as new" look (not oily and shiny) and UV protection for quite a while between applications.  You can restore surface-faded plastic, too. 

 

303 was originally formulated for marine canvas and obviously works well on Jeep tops, wiper blade rubber, tire sidewalls and such.  It does not create that "oily", cheap detail job look that attracts dust in five minutes.  Instead, 303 simply renews the original rubber finish, which I really like!

 

And no, I'm not on the payroll nor is the magazine sponsored by 303 Aerospace.  (I'd welcome their advertising, though!)  In the interest of Jeep and other 4x4 owners, I've plugged this product since the first edition of the Jeep Owner's Bible in the early 'nineties.  You can find 303 at sensible auto retail parts outlets, on Amazon, at West Marine and elsewhere.

 

Moses

[60Bubba]

I forgot to mention hobby #152...kayaking.  My wife and I have 17' ocean kayaks.  Both have very tight-fitting rubber hatch covers.  303 Protectant is the recommended treatment for these hatch covers.  On kayaks, the covers are obviously are exposed to harsh sunlight, and for sea kayaks they are constantly wet with salt water.  In addition to the protection provided, they also make the super-tight hatch covers pop on and off with ease. 

 

After I used the nasty aircraft paint stripper on the glass gaskets I had to re-use, I washed them in soap in the bathtub, rinsed them thoroughly, dried them then treated them with 303.  I figured it would be good for the rubber and might make them a little easier to install.

 

I'll definitely give the new dash pad a coat to try to keep it in good condition.  I may even try it on the tires in lieu of Armor All or something similar.

[60Bubba]

So here is the latest on the project.  I'd say I'm 97% done.  I'm still waiting on the bumper ends, bull bar and spare tire carrier to come back from the painters, but the rest is just detail work. I'll take it back for s few touch ups on the blue, and they need to polish out some clear coat runs. I think they have my dash grab handle; I certainly haven't seen it in 2 months...

 

Today I got the ground loop in my amplifier sorted out. No more alternator whine, and the little whistle I was hearing seems to have gone away as well.

 

David, the Retrosound Radio and $45 Pyle waterproof amp do a pretty respectable job, considering Jeep CJ acoustics aren't exactly Carnegie Hall.  I put it in front of the neighbor's house to take some pictures in the same place as my first picture of the Jeep.  I'm pretty pleased with how it looks.

 

 

[Moses Ludel]

Beautiful, a stellar color choice for a class act Jeep CJ...Great job, Case!

 

Moses

[AZ.Jay]

Looks fantastic!

[spdljohn]

That looks top notch. Very inspiring. Envious you're rolling in yours. Can't wait to get to that point. Hanks for your help in posting pics of the rear shackle hager too and your input on my project.

David

[60Bubba]

Thanks for the comments, they'll help keep me inspired to finish the last 3% of the rebuild!  I'll be watching the other projects here in the meantime.

[Moses Ludel]

Case, I saw a very clean late Wrangler today with a body color strikingly similar to your CJ-7's blue.  Is that color a "stock" Jeep pick?  I'm so attuned to your CJ-7 now that the blue Jeep Wrangler made me do a double-take!

 

Moses

[60Bubba]

Today I got the windshield wipers back on.  This wouldn't have been a big deal, but the windshield must be folded down to do it, and that is quite a chore with the hardtop in place.  I also got my wiring more or less tucked up under the dash and put in the sun visors. 

 

Moses, the color I picked is Jeep Cosmos Blue, which was a stock Wrangler color in 2011 and 2012, I believe. It is pretty darn similar to the Jeep Brilliant Blue color from the 1970's.

[Moses Ludel]

Brilliant color choice, looked nice on the late Jeep Wrangler today, looks even better on your CJ-7!  Both with black tops...

 

Moses

[60Bubba]

I guess it's official.  I changed my avatar.  Too bad I don't know how to make a .gif that cycles between the old and new photos...

[Moses Ludel]

NICE, Case!!!  You did this project in record time considering the work involved...Commitment!

 

Moses

[60Bubba]

One of the last items for me to reinstall was my spare tire carrier.  Before the tear down, the tire carrier rattled incessantly.  The two 7/16" bolts that hold the carrier to the body mounts had wobbled the holes out somewhat.  I think much of that was due to the factory rubber isolators disintegrating and allowing movement.

 

I had an old chromed steel wheel with a trash tire on the carrier, but I intend to install a Mickey Thompson Classic II with a 33"X12.5" Baja MTZ to match my other four wheels.  I know the stock carrier is marginal for such a heavy load, but I don't have the budget for a $500 bumper and tire carrier right now.  I bought 7/16" Grade 8 bolts and hardware as Fastenal, but then I had an idea. 

 

I thought if I put a sleeve in that went through both ears of the bracket plus the square tubing of the carrier arm it might even out the load.  I drilled out the brackets and carrier arms to 1/2" and cut 1/2" X 1/16" wall steel tubing to fit down into the newly enlarged holes.  I cut each sleeve about 3/32" longer than the bracket so I could tighten the nut and lock washer down tight without impinging on the bracket itself.

 

I doubt this will be a long term solution, but with the addition of a set of new rubber isolators and hardware from an eBay operation, I think this will suffice until I decide on (and can afford) a new bumper and tire carrier.

 

 

[Moses Ludel]

What a smarty!  This is essentially what winch manufacturers and others do when they grab support through a boxed frame section.  Typically, they drill a larger hole on one side of the box and insert a sleeve that rests against the opposite side. The I.D. of the sleeve matches the original hole size at one side, fitting against the inside of the frame rail; the O.D. of the sleeve matches the newly cut hole's diameter.

 

The sleeve fits flush with the surface of the frame at one side and against the inside of the opposite frame surface...When you "crush" the fastening hardware (bolt, washers and nut) to full torque, it cannot collapse the box section of the frame.  The sleeve also reinforces and distributes the load better.

 

You took a similar approach, though the sleeve insert runs all the way through...If this problem persists, try a larger hole through the rectangular tubing and match that diameter at one side of the pivot bracket.  The sleeve will stop against the inside of the opposite bracket.  The tubing will pivot on the O.D. of the sleeve...Use a large washer on the larger hole side of the bracket to capture both the sleeve's surface and the surrounding bracket surface.  Would a drawing help here? 

 

Note:  You can even try a bearing kit for a rack.  Here's what I did on a bumper mounted pivot: http://www.4wdmechanix.com/MIG-Welding-Project-Installing-the-Pivot-King.html. For huge spare tires, this is better, the tire rack with tire will swing with a single finger's pressure.  Unfortunately, the Pivot King is no more, but there are others who make rack support bearing kits.

 

Looking at this from another angle, could you simply weld the current sleeve to the tubular section in a way that would prevent the tubular section from collapsing?  There I go again with the weldor/welding thing!

 

For now, you nailed it!

 

Moses

[60Bubba]

Moses, thanks as always for your sage advice.  My thought as I was contemplating this fix was that welding the sleeve to the bracket might be a good idea.  Unfortunately, for now I have no welder (or weldor, for that matter).  My dad used to teach metal shop but they only welded with sticks.  He taught me to braze, which I employed on my first body restoration.  The door bottoms were rusted out, so we brazed in the patches and went to town. If the system works but there seems to be a need for fixing things in place, I may see about getting things welded.

 

I was busy today, and finished off a couple other small projects.  First, I wanted to put something under my new stainless cowl vent to keep out debris.  My old set up had aluminum screen, but it was sloppily folded and stuffed in place.  I came up with what I think is a better solution.  I got some fiberglass window screen and cut it to slightly larger than the vent.  I turned the vent face down on a towel and "tacked" the screen in place with superglue using dots of glue every inch or two.  After the glue set, I used a sharp box knife to trim the screen and cut out spaces for the holes.

 

Finally, some may remember I was having difficulty with my temperature gauge reading hot.  After replacing the wire harness and the sender, it was exactly the same.  It didn't jump to the high side, so I thought it wasn't a ground issue, but it always read almost to the hot line.  Some research indicated the Cherokee 4.0L engine ran hotter than the CJ 4.2L, so it makes sense that the gauge would be inaccurate even when the engine is at the appropriate temperature.  I figured a variable resistor would fix things, but I had no idea what resistance range would work.  Thankfully, the old Corvettes are known to have gauges that always read high or low, so someone else did the legwork for me.  I bought an inline variable resistor (the little green thing below my speedo) from a Corvette restoration shop.  After verifying I was running around 195 degrees as it should, I adjusted the rheostat until my gauge read in the middle of the scale.  Dunsky.

 

I also mounted the spare tire carrier.  Feels pretty solid.  We'll see how it survives a 70+ pound load...

[AZ.Jay]

Nice work Case. I've got a long way to go to catch up with you .

[60Bubba]

One last project for the day.  My dash grab bar has been at the paint shop along with the rest of my parts.  I finally picked it all up yesterday and decided to rattle can the spare tire carrier, the grab bar and a few other things.

 

The paint job turned out fine, but that stuff never seems terribly durable.  I baked the paint, but I decided to try to protect it long term.  I've been looking for a source for leather wrap to refinish the bar, as my CJ was a Laredo in its former life.  I saw some old links to people re-wrapping grab bars, but nothing current. 

 

I decided to make a trip to Michaels to see if I could come up with a "crafty" solution to my problem.  My bar didn't have the leather when I got it, but it seems like all of the Jeeps I've seen had brown leather.  Since I switched my interior to black, I decided black leather might be more appropriate regardless of tradition.

 

The leather I went after wasn't in stock.  All they had was some pretty heavy black leather and a piece of suede. Lots of high performance vehicles are using suede or Alcantara for steering wheels, so I decided to give that a go.  The leather was $7.99, the lacing was $3.99, and I bought a cheap punch for $9.99.  If I had to do it again, I would want a better quality leather punch.  You get what you pay for sometimes.

 

I'm pretty happy with the results, and I think it will set off the dash nicely.

[60Bubba]

Jay, you should have seen my last CJ.  It was a basket case when I bought it, and it never looked much better.  Lots of duct tape holding things together.  You'll get it sorted, and hopefully you'll be able to take your time and get it just how you want it.

[60Bubba]

That was 88 damned holes to punch, in case anyone was counting...

[spdljohn]

Looks great. Your paint job looks so good

[Moses Ludel]

Really like the resistance change on the temp gauge, practical touch there!  The leather work is equally impressive...

 

Moses

[60Bubba]

I finally took the time to install the extended brake lines I bought during the rebuild. I intended to put them in while the tub was off, but they didn't come in time. Having done it laying under the Jeep, I REALLY wish I had done them while the tub was off.

The clips that hold the front lines in the frame were a nightmare. I ended up grinding them down because they were too thick to slide back in place with my Goodridge brake lines.

I ended up having my wife pump the brakes to bleed them. I tried my vacuum bleeder, but it didn't seem to be drawing much fluid out. I've noticed it seems like lots of air leaks in around the bleeder screw threads. If I tighten the screw a hair, the vacuum just builds up and I get nowhere. The two man bleed job worked fine. I got the usual bubbly fluid from three wheels, and the driver's front wheel that I bled last was full of tiny little air bubbles. It almost looked milky. Nice firm pedal and the reservoir is topped off.

The front lines almost seem too long now. I'm going to have to keep a close eye on them, as it seems like they might rub the tires with the wheels turned to the stops. Thankfully, wheels at the stops and high speed don't typically go hand in hand, so I'm unlikely to rip out a brake line at 55 MPH.

I can't believe the shop that installed a 4+" lift on a CJ didn't put on extended lines. When the chassis was stripped down and the frame was riding high on the leaf springs, the rear brake line was actually pulled taught. It wasn't as bad with all the weight back on the frame, but I suspect the first halfway decent axle articulation would have dismantled the braking system in a heartbeat. Much better now, I hope.

[Moses Ludel]

Really glad you remedied this hose issue, you're absolutely right, a perfect storm could brew and rip the lines apart...Your concern about tire rub is also valid, you'll need to remedy that as well.  I had a hose routing challenge with the XJ Cherokee's six-inch lift and aftermarket stainless braid hoses supplied with the kit.  Rotating the hose at the brake line attachment fitting can sometimes provide just the correct curves for clearance over the hose's length.  Consider loosening the hose at the brake pipe flare nut and twisting the hose to form better curves, then secure the hose and fitting at that position.  Swing the wheels left to right and also visualize, like you note, the shape of the brake hose as the axle articulates.  Tire rub is always a concern that requires a remedy.  Keep an eye on the inner tire sidewalls.

 

Note: Some simply change to a more manageable hose length.  Others use a rubber insulated clamp on the hose and anchor (or spring attach) the hose to a chassis point.  Especially for aftermarket axles and lift kits that offer extra articulation, brake hose length, and finding the right hose shape, can be a challenge. 

 

I could also relate to your issue with the vacuum bleeder.  I have two quality vacuum bleeding units, the newer and bigger volume unit was purchased when I thought the first unit was defective.  The problem is just as you described and two-fold:  1) creating vacuum at a bleeder valve is difficult because the bleeder will leak around its threads when loosening the bleeder, and 2) the amount of applied vacuum (my tools are compressed air actuated) is too high.  Not sure if you have a hand pump type or a more expensive tool like mine, either can cause the same trouble...

 

Various solutions:  Some go to lengths by wrapping Teflon tape (not paste) around the threads, and this sounds like a possible fix.  It also requires a lot of extra work and removal of the bleeder if you want to get the tape off the screw.  On compressed air actuated units like mine, some suggest dropping air pressure to 60 PSI or less to get the right vacuum.  Others recommend closing the bleeder valve then opening it the minimal amount—like 1/8 to no more than 1/4 turn open. 

 

I have experimented quite a bit here and recently filmed a how-to that is now in post-production for a Vimeo On Demand series.  The series covers 1990-2006 Jeep brake work.  My best results were to close and open the bleeder valve in a cyclic, back and forth way with the vacuum applied—no more than 1/4 turn open.  Get a fluid "flow" going then watch the bubbles in the clear tubing.  Once the open/close cycle provides a setting that will draw a steady flow of brake fluid, watch the coloration of the fluid. Vacuum all dirty fluid from the system, constantly refilling the master cylinder to prevent sucking air into the system. 

 

Note: During brake bleeding, I use a one-man, "automatic" brake fluid filler that keeps the master cylinder reservoir full with clean brake fluid.  This is a simple device much like a drinking supply for birds and small animals.  The commercially available device will be shown in the video.

 

If you can use a vacuum bleeder, there is a significant advantage:  You can pull debris through the system from the master cylinder.  At each wheel cylinder or caliper, you're pulling fluid and debris from all edges of the cylinder.  Conventional pump-the-pedal or even power bleeding from the master cylinder end will not draw fluid from the outer edges of the wheel cylinders or calipers—it will merely eliminate air and push mainstream fluid through the bleeder port, usually at the center of the cylinder.  Conventional, non-vacuum bleeding can hold or even compress dirty fluid into the wheel cylinder sealing cup edges or crevices of a caliper's fluid cavity.

 

When you bled your brakes, were you aware of the dual-braking switchover pin that needs to be held outward on the later Jeep CJs?  There's a special tool (can be improvised) that prevents the brake hydraulic system from arbitrarily flipping to either the front or rear brake system while you're attempting to bleed the brakes.  When this happens, you can only bleed one end of the brake system...I can share more information if you need it.  This feature at the combination valve is a common cause of failed or frustrated brake bleeding attempts on the later Jeep CJs.  We can open a new topic for this subject.

 

Moses

[60Bubba]

Moses,

Your method for vacuum bleeding seems logical. I have a hand pump bleeder, so I think extra hands might be in order! I have a compressor, so maybe I'll upgrade to a powered bleeder. When I replaced the master cylinder and booster before I tore the Jeep apart, I did use the vacuum method exclusively. I DON'T have a MC filler, so I made lots of trips to the reservoir and back under to keep from sucking air from the MC. I did see a fair amount of particulate matter and nasty fluid come out. On a positive note, the fluid that came out this time, four months later, was still almost the same color as new. Hopefully, I got out most of the crud last time.

I was not aware of the switchover pin you referred to. I just bleed from right rear to left rear, then repeat up front. Is holding this pin required when bleeding that way? We didn't have any trouble getting fluid from each bleed screw...

As for the hose length, I think I have them adjusted pretty well now. I did have to go back and spin the end of the flex hose where it attaches to the brake pipe in order to get a smooth arc of hose. On the front two wheels, I also adjusted the angle of the hose. I'm not sure if it has a specific name, but the flex hose has what I'll call a "lollipop" fitting that the banjo bolt goes through on the caliper end. I could tighten down the banjo bolt with the lollipop in any orientation within about a 40 degree arc, so I tilted them in toward the vehicle centerline. This naturally aims the hose away from the tire.

If that doesn't seem to be keeping the hoses clear, I'll rig up something like the flex keeper you see holding up the air hoses between semi tractors and their trailers.

[Moses Ludel]

Case...The switchover valve is part of the dual-braking safety system.  You would know if the system did switch to one end of the vehicle, there would be no fluid pressure at the opposite end.  The special factory "tool" is a clip with a slot guide that holds the pin outward during the bleeding process.  You actually did a protocol bleed in the manual (non-pressurized) method and apparently got around the switchover in the combination valve.

 

Here's a 1984 Jeep CJ factory view of the bleeding process that also illustrates the J-26869 tool I'm describing.  See whether your combination valve has this feature:  Jeep CJ Brake Bleeding.pdf.  The likely obsolete tool can be fabricated/improvised, I made one several years ago...

 

Moses

[60Bubba]

I haven't done much work on the Jeep lately.  I did manage to track down a new old stock Mickey Thompson Classic II for my spare tire, and go the tire on Amazon. I took it down to my local tire shop to mount and balance.  They also do suspension work and alignments, so I had them install the drop pitman arm, align the front end and adjust my tie rod sleeve so the front end is straight when the steering wheel is straight.

 

Oh, and I finally finished this other project...or I should say my wife finally finished this other project, Emmett Case Garrison, born 26 JAN 15 at 0948 PST.  This was part of the reason I was in such a rush to finish the Jeep, I figured my days of spending 12 hours in the garage were numbered.  I hope to hand this Jeep off to him someday.

[Moses Ludel]

Great closure to the Jeep restoration—and just in time!  Beautiful baby boy...Congratulations, Case and Mrs. Case!

 

You'll get used to changing diapers on that lined tailgate of the Jeep CJ-7!  Later, the stowage area behind the rear seat will hold the soccer balls for AYSO games, bats and balls, fishing equipment, camping gear and hunting stuff.  After all that, your son will go off to college with the coolest vehicle on campus!

 

Moses

[AZ.Jay]

Congrats Case! In the second picture it looks like he's already giving the OK to the Jeep

[spdljohn]

Congratulations.  Beautiful baby.   That's wonderful.

[60Bubba]

Thanks to all. We waited 14 years to start a two-legged family, so this has been quite an adventure. I spent many hours reassembling the Jeep alone in the garage while my wife was on bed rest in San Jose 75 miles away--Drive to hospital to spend the night. Drive home, go to work, then work on Jeep. Repeat.

In the end, both projects were worth it, and one of them will cost 50 times what the otter one did, even if it never needs a paint job .

Good luck on all the other projects; I'll be watching.

[Moses Ludel]

This is the grandest investment of your lifetime, Case...Your son will bring levels of joy far beyond 4x4s and back roads...He's a fortunate fellow to be part of your ongoing adventures, too!

 

Best to Mom and baby!

 

Moses