woodstock Posted November 2, 2014 Share Posted November 2, 2014 Hi to all, my first time here. Been having a problem with my 04 LJ with 132,000 miles going into limp mode and throwing out code P1776 (solenoid switch valve stuck in low reverse). Have already replaced solenoid pack and had the valve body gone through and a shift kit installed. Helped for four months then came back. Also has codes of P0736 (gear ratio error in reverse), P0841 (low pressure switch sense circuit), P0944 (loss of prime) and P0218 (high temp operation activated). This happens when I am going at highway speed. I have tried different things disconnect battery will stop doing it for a week or two then comes back. Thanks for any help, Jason Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Administrators Moses Ludel Posted November 3, 2014 Administrators Share Posted November 3, 2014 Hi, Jason, welcome to the forums! I'm at the SEMA Show Las Vegas and away from my office library and Jeep tech information. I'll be back in information access mode by Friday. Perhaps others can assist meanwhile, and if not, I'll share insights by the weekend! Moses Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Administrators Moses Ludel Posted November 3, 2014 Administrators Share Posted November 3, 2014 Jason...Do you have a lift kit and oversized tires? An axle gearing change? Is this a Rubicon or standard LJ? Which transfer case and vehicle speed sensor type, gear driven or a reluctor ring? Reflecting on your 42RLE's symptoms, I'm wondering if you have a VSS (speed sensor) to ABS sensor problem between the chassis, PCM and transmission controller? Loss of prime would be a noticeable issue, with slip and no gear engagement. What are the actual symptoms outside of limp mode? Moses Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woodstock Posted November 4, 2014 Author Share Posted November 4, 2014 Moses thanks for the reply. I have 2004 LJ non rubicon 4.56 gears, eaton e-lockers front and rear, dana 30 front, G2/Currie rockjock high pinion 60 rear, 35 inch tires, 4.5 inch rubicon express super flex short arm, np231 transfercase with gear driven speed sensor, nth degree tummy tuck and slip yoke eliminator. All these modifications were done atleast a year and a half before this started. I don't think it has anti lock brakes but i could be wrong. My only symptoms are limp mode and the codes it creates. Drives fine until it decides to go into limp mode if I turn it off and restart sometimes it does it again and sometimes it stops for days. Jason Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Administrators Moses Ludel Posted November 4, 2014 Administrators Share Posted November 4, 2014 Jason...Do you still have the ABS brakes and sensors? Is the speedometer driven gear corrected for the tire diameter? Or do you have an electronic correction device? Does the transmission ever exhibit slip or other symptoms that correlate to low supply pressure or lack of prime? Are shift points normal? I'm still hinting about a mismatch of gearing, tires and ABS wheel speed sensing. Do you have drum or disc rear brakes? Where is the rear ABS sensor now, at a tone ring on the diff carrier or at wheel sensors? Moses Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woodstock Posted November 5, 2014 Author Share Posted November 5, 2014 I do not have ABS. I replaced the speed gear to correct the speedometer. The transmission does not slip and shifts normal. I have disc brakes front and rear from the factory. I have been running this tire size for 6 years and the gears for about 5 years. Jason Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Administrators Moses Ludel Posted November 7, 2014 Administrators Share Posted November 7, 2014 I'm back from the SEMA Show, Jason...Thanks for the additional information. Let's follow your hint that the 42RLE is throwing these trouble codes in and of itself, with none of your vehicle modifications applying. Some areas to consider... Do you have a transmission temperature gauge? Are there any telltale signs of a plugged transmission cooler and actual heating up of the transmission? You've been driving this Jeep a very long time, how does the engine temperature seem when these codes occur? I'm seeking a correlation between the transmission malfunction codes. Collectively, they point to the possibility of a higher operating temperature for the transmission, fluid thinning or even a filter/pickup issue. Have you changed the transmission filter and fluid? These units use Mopar ATF-4 or equivalent synthetic ATF and do require routine maintenance, including periodic filter changes. The 4WD version of this transmission first appeared in the Liberty KJ, models that tend to get more deliberate fluid and filter maintenance, often at the dealership. How often have you changed the fluid in this transmission, and with all the work done to date, how old is the current filter and fluid? Any kind of restriction, cooler flow issues or even a filter not installed properly can wreak havoc. Taking into account that there have been trips inside this oil pan with valve body and solenoid work, did that work include a new filter installation? If so, if codes existed before and after the transmission work, we're looking for a trouble spot outside of the valve body and solenoids. That could be a cooler or cooler flow restriction, or restricted fluid pick up. If this were my Jeep, I would first run actual transmission pressure test sequences at the case test ports to see if there is an actual pressure problem anywhere. I would check cooler (at the radiator) flow to be certain there is no restriction at the cooler or cause for a hotter running transmission. If the Jeep has done a lot of trail running, I would do a full transmission flush to eliminate converter and internal case and clutch unit debris. This is not simply relying on a "fluid change", which is nothing more than draining the accessible fluid in the pan, a portion of the overall fluid, and replenishing fluid additives at best. Automatic transmissions are hypersensitive to debris, and friction discs slough off material that finds its way to nooks and crannies of the transmission and torque converter—tending to stay there short of a complete overhaul or at least a successful full flush (done with a flushing machine). Since this is a come-and-go issue, should we suspect any wiring or plug/connector issues, perhaps a poor signal to the PCM that's causing these random code cycles? A common connector with contact corrosion? Ground issues? As for grounds, they are just as vital as "hot" circuits on a 12VDC system. A poor or corroded ground at the powertrain, chassis or engine can be a trouble source. I would check over the grounds, PCM connectors, and any wiring that relates to the 42RLE transmission. Poor connections, corrosion or faulty grounds will generate trouble codes. Moses Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woodstock Posted November 9, 2014 Author Share Posted November 9, 2014 Moses hope you enjoyed SEMA. NO trans temp gauge. No engine temp change. Changed trans fluid and filter at 70,000 and then at 125,000. The second fluid change was during the solenoid and valve body work. Same codes before and after. I have inspected PCM and TCM plugs and grounds. I will get it flushed and the pressures checked when I can, job has me working 6 days a week right now. Is there anyway to find out which grounds and where they are that would affect this. I don't know how you find the time to help but thank you. Jason Zengerle Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Administrators Moses Ludel Posted November 11, 2014 Administrators Share Posted November 11, 2014 Woodstock...The SEMA Show was huge and productive, I'm always glad to go, it's great to get home, too! Have HD video to share at the magazine, footage in post-production now. The full transmission flush is useful in any case at this mileage. This could relieve a problem, and at the least, this will reduce risk of obstructions or sludge within the transmission. The cooler inside Wrangler radiators seldom clog, and if they do, engine coolant temperature generally rises or becomes erratic. Critical ground points will be obvious: battery to engine, to the frame, to the body. Check these grounds and the PCM or transmission controller grounds. A simple check is the ohmmeter resistance reading from the battery to the device. For more accurate testing, ground circuits can be tested with a lamp load test. Here's more info on that test: http://forums.4wdmechanix.com/topic/429-testing-ground-and-wiring-circuits/?hl=%2Blamp+%2Bload+%2Btest. I'm not sure about your climate. If humid, there is risk of poor connections and oxidation at plug connector contacts. (This can occur from water fording as well.) Connector oxidation is typically a "black" coating or tarnish at the contacts. This is difficult to remove and should never be scraped with sharp objects. A good electrical contact cleaner and Scotch Brite pads work best for me, and I start with "Fine" grade. Brush rather than scrub if you need to clean up small contacts. Larger ground eye-ring terminals and attachment points can be cleaned with a more aggressive approach. Battery acid corrosion cleans up well with baking soda, water and a brush. Wear eye protection and protect painted surfaces. As for the time I allot to the forums, members' questions are always worth addressing! Members are a great bunch of enthusiasts, DIY mechanics and shop personnel seeking credible and even urgent answers. That's my job! Moses Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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