atsbush Posted February 22, 2014 Share Posted February 22, 2014 So as a kid (17-23) my family owned a garden center/landscape company. One of our farm trucks was a 1973 international 1210 4-door 4WD pick up. We changed out the automatic transmission with a 5 speed out of a scout I believe. We installed a dually kit on the rear and added a stake body. Over the years I grew very attached to it and was devastated when my father told me that he had sold it.Well surprise! Dad bought it back 10 years later as a gift for me to restore. I have more memories tied up in that truck than are probably healthy. I am looking forward to that truck being my first restoration project but I have limited experience. I was hoping that this may be a good resource. Is this forum still fairly active? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Administrators Moses Ludel Posted February 22, 2014 Administrators Share Posted February 22, 2014 Atsbush...First, welcome to the forums...I'd like to emphasize that this forum is as active as you and others want it to be! I'm pleased to enter any dialogue about I-H trucks and Scouts, I grew up around them during the I-H light truck heyday and have tremendous respect for these vehicles. As for your rarer 4-door 1210, congratulations! I have considerable information about your truck when needed. I also "teethed" on I-H trucks as a light- and medium-duty truck mechanic in the early years of my career, and I can "talk I-H". More importantly, I know the best practices for repairing these vehicles and how to do a professional restoration. The transmission in your truck is likely from a Travelall. The five-speed was a rare option around the years your truck was built, and a Travelall could have been the donor. We can discuss this or any of the other components on your truck. The Holy Grail for any I-H truck is its original "Line Ticket". If you have the sheet, you're really in luck. Otherwise, parts can be identified by common industry parts listings. Feel free to ask questions...This forum and our posts can be a valuable resource for other I-H owners and restorers. Read the I-H posts to date...If you're looking for a counterpart to your truck, follow "bgillon" at: http://forums.4wdmechanix.com/topic/265-new-member-with-1973-i-h-1210-4x4-pickup-truck/. Moses Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
atsbush Posted February 22, 2014 Author Share Posted February 22, 2014 Thank you for the reply and for the suggestion. I did read his post yesterday and will continue to follow his story. I look to be able to pick the truck up within the month and bring it home to start the work. Once I get it here, I will post some pictures. Thank you for your help and I look forward to picking your brain. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Administrators Moses Ludel Posted February 23, 2014 Administrators Share Posted February 23, 2014 We'll have fun following your restoration, Atsbush! BGillon's restoration is underway, too...He's now into repairing the front axle shaft and brakes, and he found an I-H shop manual, too! Keep us posted... Moses Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
atsbush Posted March 6, 2014 Author Share Posted March 6, 2014 Here he is about to be loaded onto the roll back for his ride home Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Administrators Moses Ludel Posted March 6, 2014 Administrators Share Posted March 6, 2014 Exciting, Atsbush...This will be a fun restoration project and outcome...Like to see more pictures. Consider some for the "Garage" gallery at the forums...Megatron did a great rundown of his project and equipment on his truck, see the example in the "Images" and "Modifications" sections at Megatron's truck photos. Looking forward to the International Harvester 1210 4x4 pickup "brotherhood" dialogue... Keep us tuned! Moses Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
atsbush Posted April 27, 2015 Author Share Posted April 27, 2015 Okay so after a year of planning, this has finally come true. Here it is finally coming home. I cant tell you how happy it makes me to see it in the driveway. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
atsbush Posted April 27, 2015 Author Share Posted April 27, 2015 i will take some more pictures this evening inside and out so i can start getting some input and suggestions on where to start. I will also be scanning and uploading the line tickets that came with the truck. Thanks in advance for all of your help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
atsbush Posted April 28, 2015 Author Share Posted April 28, 2015 So first order of business was to attempt to get the passenger window up. My guess is it has been in the down position for 10 years. Well a 1" wide thin bar in the regulator broke and now will have to be replaced. Any ideas on where to get a replacement ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Administrators Moses Ludel Posted April 28, 2015 Administrators Share Posted April 28, 2015 Glad you're happy, I would be! Contact Scout Light Line for that part. New or used, they likely have it. Please share my regards with John Glancy! Keep us posted on the project...Will be fun to see the Line Ticket! Moses Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smokin6-0 Posted May 6, 2015 Share Posted May 6, 2015 Now get to work on it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
atsbush Posted November 8, 2015 Author Share Posted November 8, 2015 I am considering changing the front brakes to disk. Anyone have any expierence in what kits work best for these trucks? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Administrators Moses Ludel Posted November 8, 2015 Administrators Share Posted November 8, 2015 atsbush...If you can find a disc brake donor truck of similar type to you I-H, the best route is factory parts. This would include the complete brake assemblies plus any differences in the brake master cylinder/booster/pedal pushrod, hoses, proportioning valve/combination valve and so forth. You need a match from the brake pedal through the front brakes. Compare parts and part numbers to get the pieces needed. What works best is to emulate the factory disc brake system completely, a safe match-up of engineered parts.The last of the I-H 1210s were disc front brakes. The Scout II uses disc brakes on a Dana 44 front axle, but the wheel 5-bolt pattern is not the same as your eight stud 1210. Easier and safer to use 1210 pieces.Moses Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
atsbush Posted November 9, 2015 Author Share Posted November 9, 2015 Thanks Moses for the input. Smokin6-0 has been helping me a lot. Its amazing but after sitting for 12 years in a field, that truck runs as smooth as can be. We timed it and adjusted the carb a bit and now it runs like new. I cant believe it. Is the factory timing setting 0? I cant find a copy of the service manual but that is what everyone online is saying. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
atsbush Posted November 9, 2015 Author Share Posted November 9, 2015 Also, I am considering changing the rear to run single wheels but I need to buy tires all of the way around. What is the largest tire that the front wheel wells will support? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
atsbush Posted November 9, 2015 Author Share Posted November 9, 2015 Also, I am trying to get the ignition wiring correct. Currently I have a push button wired in to start the truck. I was checking the wiring at the starter and found 6 volts on a black wire when the ignition is placed into the START position. Is that the correct current to activate the solenoid? Also, Do you have any wiring diagrams for this truck? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Administrators Moses Ludel Posted November 9, 2015 Administrators Share Posted November 9, 2015 (edited) atsbush...You're in restoration mode! As for ignition base timing, this is zero degrees or TDC with the vacuum line disconnected and plugged, engine idling. My professional grade Motors Truck Manual from the period notes that the 304/345/392 of your vintage picks up the spark timing signal from #8 cylinder (right bank, rear of engine) and not at #1 cylinder. (Firing order is 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2; left bank 1-3-5-7 and right bank 2-4-6-8, viewed front to rear.)It would make more sense that you hook the timing light to #6 cylinder if the #1 lead is difficult to reach on the left bank front. #6 would be the 3rd cylinder back on the right bank and readily accessible. In this firing order, either #1 or #6 (directly opposite each other at the distributor cap) would read the same at the timing damper/crank pulley. TDC should appear for either. As for the #8 cylinder timing light pickup footnote, if this is supposed to be #1 or #6 and you use #8 lead, the base timing would be retarded 45-degrees! My more generic and choppy Chilton Truck Manual does not delineate between the #1 versus #8 cylinder pickup. #1 or #6 cylinder spark timing reference for these engines would seem practical.Note: Is the emissions decal still under the hood? It may give details, please share...Note that there is one 392 V-8 application with a Carter carburetor that uses a different base timing of 5 BTDC. All other engines in this year range use TDC.I would not get carried away with oversize tires on a truck with sagging and aged springs. Consult with a local tire store, they deal with these matters all the time. I would guess you'd need at least a 2" leaf spring "lift" to get a significantly larger tire. Generally, a 33" diameter tire on your size truck would need a 2" lift. 35" tires typically require a 4" lift. Leaf springs can be re-arched to achieve some degree of lift. There were lift kits and rear blocks available in the day, perhaps you can still find a source.The 6-volt reading in running mode is normal, as this is resisted current. During actual cranking mode with a Delco-Remy starter (solenoid mounted piggy-back on the motor) is 12V. The coil receives 12V only during cranking. Once the engine starts, the "ON" mode is 6V current to the ignition coil. Trust this helps clarify. I do not have a wiring diagram, though that would be available in a factory service manual or reprint.Moses Edited November 9, 2015 by Moses Ludel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
atsbush Posted November 13, 2015 Author Share Posted November 13, 2015 He's alive! IMG_1180.MOV Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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