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I-H 120 Series Crew Cab 4x4


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picked up a  60's vintage 120 series crew cab x navy truck 

sofar from looking at it i need mirors

windsheild

instrument clusters

ignition switch of some sort

 

still need to look into cranking it over told it has a 380 motor in it of some sort  have to pull the carb and clean it and go for their. neat bucket seats in the front 

missing the hood ornimint.

 

was running in the last 5-10yrs

ill post some pics in a bit need to go out with the camera 

 

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1ajs...Looking forward to your photos.  Engine, chassis, axles, etc., would be helpful for identifying parts...Interesting project!  Unusual cab and likely a base engine and chassis if Navy.  I worked on a fleet of military surplus trucks in the late sixties that included a mix of 1949 through fifties GM, Ford and I-H vehicles.  The two "newer" vehicles in the fleet were a 1960 Chevrolet C10 and a 1960 Metro Van.  All of these former military vehicles had "standard equipment", though the Metro Vans did have B-W automatic transmissions.  Good memories!

Moses

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  • Moses Ludel changed the title to I-H 120 Series Crew Cab 4x4

theres bunch of parts laying inside the beast for the headlights and cluter a fuel tank guesing someone tried to do some work on it but gave up?

 

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raspbery bush came through the hole next to the shifter last yr see it died this yr 

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dunno if this is the bezzle frame for the cluster was in the back seat burried bunch of stuff back there have to clean it out and see whats all there
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the badge

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there some rusty floors and some wheel well fire wall rust have to look into what takes to fix that. if takes me 5 yrs to bring it back i dont care just sorta neat never seen anything like it befor and for 200 bucks a project i can puter at with a friend also needs a driver side rear window

 

 

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9 minutes ago, Moses Ludel said:

1ajs...Looking forward to your photos.  Engine, chassis, axles, etc., would be helpful for identifying parts...Interesting project!  Unusual cab and likely a base engine and chassis if Navy.  I worked on a fleet of military surplus trucks in the late sixties that included a mix of 1949 through fifties GM, Ford and I-H vehicles.  The two "newer" vehicles in the fleet were a 1960 Chevrolet C10 and a 1960 Metro Van.  All of these former military vehicles had "standard equipment", though the Metro Vans did have B-W automatic transmissions.  Good memories!

Moses

this one came from the base in churchill manitoba canada 

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1ajs...This is a rare find in my view.  I think the truck is well worth your time and effort, and yes, it's an unusual body style and chassis.  The dash bezel looks correct and should match up.  The truck is intact enough to reduce searching endlessly for pieces.  Looks period correct.  Despite the obvious lack of appreciation shown the machine, Manitoba was apparently a forgiving climate, dry enough to leave the truck reasonably intact.  

We're among a dedicated contingent of I-H fans.  Keep us posted on this truck project.  I'm very curious where it leads...and how you approach it.  Share more details as information and visuals unfold.

Moses

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ground plan get it running 

the paint i think i wana find some sorta flat clear coat to leave it the way it is minus the dirt after a good cleaning.

poor turcks going to need a good tare down though not something do overnihgt take a few yrs here an then get it back to life. never sat in a more comfertable truck seat though holy crap

 

but ran into a snag got a family fuel i just found out aout after paying for it, i didnt know about prolly cost me a case of beer to work my way around.

 

 

 

 

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1 hour ago, Moses Ludel said:

Worth a case of beer...Curious about the engine, transmission, transfer case and axles.  What year is the chassis?

not sure dont know a hell of allot about ih chasis and all that jaz

if u know of some good reading resources on ientifying this stuff plz fire at me

 

the motor im told is a 380 of some sort. will need to pull the carb and clean that an figure out a way to turn it over prolly need to poor atf? or somthing into the cylders to loosen the rings?

 

 

the key is missing so need to figure that out. though might still exist if i ask around town nicely

 

theres an amo box mounted between the 2 front seat is that normal?

 

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There are many sites online and forums for I-H, too.  I've surfed them and found useful and historic information.  Here are some sites for taking you up the I-H learning curve.  Just a start, there's an enthusiastic I-H community, especially around the Scout II.  These are pickup resources, there are many more:

https://thebinderboneyard.com/

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_International_(brand)_trucks

http://www.scoutlightline.com/

No clutch pedal?  Can't see the shift lever or levers, so not clear what's in the powertrain.  Most military models were manual transmission with a two-speed transfer case.  In Neutral of the transfer case, you can move the truck without an issue.  No electric anything.  This is the sixties.  Steering is likely manual type.

When you can take more photos, close-up details of the axles, wheel hubs, transfer case, transmission, steering gear, engine, etc., it will be easier to identify what you have.  Engines in military models were typically six-cylinder in-lines.  You'll know more when you get the hood open and some I.D. plate information.  There are I.D. tags on axles, the transfer case and transmission.  The vehicle I.D. includes engine information.

Moses

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i got some free time go out grab some more and see

be had hard to get at the axles atm with all birch tree bush's growing around it 

have to find my machette to clear the brush around it.

 

just 2 pedals 

theres a shifter and some sorta lever to the right  of that

 

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3 hours ago, Moses Ludel said:

A bottom side view of the engine/transmission and the transfer case would be useful...axles, too.  If you can get under the hood, yippee, we'll see which engine lurks there.

went out took a look again i dont think its the stock motor has a V block no transfer case but it had been a 4wd unit so think its been swaped

distributer looks clean oil looks good on it but will need to hook bunch of stuff back up and map the wires out bit of a rats nest of eletrical uner the hood

its got some rust issues on the floors but prolly fixable aint to far done yet but at the point its a project.

 

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rear diff

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front diff

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front hub

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1ajs...What year is this vehicle?  Have you found the I.D. plate yet?  The brake master cylinder is 1960-62 GM truck style, so I'm guessing this vehicle is in that year range or so.  I-H outsourced parts and likely picked this style brake/clutch master cylinder from GM/Delco-Moraine.  Is only one pipe coming out of the master cylinder?  That would be brakes only.  Two pipes would feed a clutch slave and the brakes.  Was one port blocked off?  This is a tandem master cylinder but not a "dual" braking system.  The brake side is single port without a safety backup.  Dual braking systems did not show up until 1967.

The engine is not an I-H V-8.  It looks like a Chrysler B-series wedge head V-8 (361, 383 or 440) used in Chrysler, Dodge and Plymouth cars.  The "380" could have been a reference to the Chrysler 383, that's possibly what this engine is.  The carburetor looks like an Edelbrock?  Original would be an AFB Carter that is similar in appearance to the Edelbrock. 

That automatic transmission could be a Chrysler 727 Torqueflite, which would be common with a 383 V-8 from 1962-up.  Look at I.D. information on the transmission.  The case will be aluminum and one piece all the way to the engine block if 1962-up origins.  1959-61 Chrysler product cars had an iron "TorqueFlite". 

Sounds like someone wanted to build a modified 2WD truck.  The transfer case is "missing".  Engine/transmission is from a 2WD vehicle if the transmission has a long tailhousing and accepts a driveshaft coupler (no mate-up for a transfer case).  A 2WD driveshaft coupler would slide into the long tailhousing.

The rear axle is stock Dana/Spicer, likely a 60 in an S-120.  You can confirm the casting number at center section of the rear axle housing or measure the diff cover gasket size.  The free-wheeling front hubs are part of a 4WD front axle.  If original, the front axle should be a Dana/Spicer 44.  You can confirm this on the axle housing casting.  I-H has its own nomenclature for axles (FA15 at the front or something similar), but the manufacturer of the front and rear axles will be Dana/Spicer.

If you do plan to restore this truck to "original", you will be looking for an I-H engine (an inline six or the 304, 345 or 392 I-H V-8s).  I believe you will find that the truck originally had a clutch pedal (look under the dash near the brake pedal) that used a hydraulic line from the tandem master cylinder to the clutch linkage.  The transmission was likely an I-H version of the T98 Borg Warner or a similar 4-speed truck manual transmission.  You would need to find the right transfer case for the transmission and the truck chassis.  Drivelines would be needed.

If you'd like to take more pictures, I'll help identify what is there now and the origins.  So far, it looks like you have a modified truck, converted from 4WD to 2WD if the transmission is a 727 from a 2WD passenger car.  Follow up on the transmission, that will tell us what they were trying to create here.  Look at the engine front mounts, there should be signs of fabricated/welded frame brackets to support the Chrysler swap engine.

Moses

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hopefully can get it moving underits own power then go from there

 

the master cylder has 2 lines ones not conected to anything other goes to the breaks

your prolly right about it being manual origonaly. 

no idea what they were oing but gues they wanted something to rip around in. 

 

going to need to take it apart and clean treat repair rust slowly 

 

when i got down time from work ill look closer at it

 

 

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On 9/5/2021 at 3:55 PM, Moses Ludel said:

You know where you stand and can make goals for the truck.  As a starter, it does have a unique body.  You have several options for which way to go...

indeed hopefully have some time this week to get the motor running and try move it lots rain this week in forcast

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You're lucky to have rain, 1ajs...We're east of Reno, Nevada, in the greater Lake Tahoe Area where the drought persists.  Fall is coming, maybe some relief and an end to the disastrous Northern California fires...Fingers crossed, we've had enough smoke.

Moses

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On 9/8/2021 at 11:15 AM, Moses Ludel said:

You're lucky to have rain, 1ajs...We're east of Reno, Nevada, in the greater Lake Tahoe Area where the drought persists.  Fall is coming, maybe some relief and an end to the disastrous Northern California fires...Fingers crossed, we've had enough smoke.

Moses

been realy wet up here last few yrs. finaly had bit of a drough earlyer in summer when we ha 110weather and lots of smoke from fires hell the town almost  burned down after a pole fire set the bush ablaze on a 110 day nothing like looking out ur window to a wall of flames scary scary stuff overall a small area but it took off fast just lucky its been so wet up here 

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Beautiful country aside from the burn!  Wow, the fire burned to the fringe of town.  Glad you're all okay...How far North are you in Canada?  Looks wet.  That can be deceiving when the temps are as high as you describe.  We lived for years at the Pacific Northwest, looked "green" even in the worst drought years.

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8 hours ago, Moses Ludel said:

Beautiful country aside from the burn!  Wow, the fire burned to the fringe of town.  Glad you're all okay...How far North are you in Canada?  Looks wet.  That can be deceiving when the temps are as high as you describe.  We lived for years at the Pacific Northwest, looked "green" even in the worst drought years.

lynn lake its pritty far up almmost end of the highway

looks flat in that photo but its hilly with all the scaring from the glaciers 

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Very interesting part of Manitoba.  Far, far north for climate, just subarctic.  You need a project, and this one will do, for those long winters!  In the Far West of the U.S., there are many wonderful living spaces, some that my wife and I characterize as "nine months of winter and three months of paradise..."  Lynn Lake might fit that description. 

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Sounds like a good life with plenty of fresh air and open space!  Do you have a place to work on a vehicle(s) in the winter?  What does that take in your climate? 

A friend from Reno went to Inuvik on the Ice Road, during the last season before it closed.  He prepared for months in advance for the extreme cold.

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update from the sidetrack above

 

spent the evening poking at it

pulled the plugs they all look ok sept one

prolly should find a set of new plug wires though these ones look doobious

the distributer cap is loose wont stay on for some reason but other wise looks clean on the points

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put socket on the crank and it turned over easy 

took a valve cover off and looked nice

 

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put back together as i need a suringe to put oil into cylders

 

puled all the random parts laying loose in the cabin out to bring home and sort clean up

least found the the frames for the headlights and trim

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floors shure solid in it but needs good cleaning for surface rust. has that sound u want to hear as well in the metal f

drivers floor though as a hole someone screwed a plate over tope to fix. 

 

whats this for found it under the seat

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the grills not on but  think ive seen it around

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all the windows go up and down even the smashed one guse its fractured but should get replaced as for windsheild willneed a new one. suggestions on vosts and finding

will also need all new ruber for it all

 

question on the 383 does it need 2 belts for the alternator or just the one that feeds it and the fan? that is curently loossse

dont know allot about v blocks. 

sprayed wd40 on all the blots i think i need to adjust to tighten the belt.

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The "I-H" button should be the horn button.  The seats are clearly added, there were no headrests built into seats when this truck was built.  In fact, it may not have had seat belts originally.  Did you find the I.D. Plate?  It has a lot of useful information.

The plugs aren't that bad, a compression test would answer questions after you get the engine running and parts settle a bit.  Yes, the valvetrain looks especially clean.

Are you forming an opinion about restoring the 4x4 system?  The 383 and presumably 727 Torqueflite would require a divorced transfer case.  (A divorced transfer case stands alone behind the transmission with its own mounts and a short driveshaft between the transmission and the transfer case.)  The original transfer case may or may not have been divorced style.  The wheelbase is long enough for a divorced transfer case.

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spent few hrs frustraited trying to get power to stuff only to find a chopped wire under the dash for the postivie lead leading to some face palm moments.

all the elctrical needs to come apart and get cleaned plus the harnes is a spegeti of splices poor thing.

 

theres 3 shift levers that all apear to be hooked up 2 are stuff one moves something on the transmision so maybe theres a transfercase i didnt notice?? also a short shaft stashed behind the back seat so maybe it does have 4wd just not atached? got some crawling around to do tomarrow eve

 

and discoved the gas pedal is missing the assembly it push's on is still there going up to the carb thoough minus the clip that ataches to to the carb.

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I'm optimistic that this vehicle has a divorced transfer case in place.  If so, the 383 and automatic transmission were placed in front of the transfer case with a short shaft between the 727 Torqueflite and the transfer case.  The two shift levers with resistance are promising.  If there's room beneath the beast, some photos would answer a lot of questions about the powertrain.

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A divorced transfer case makes the engine conversion less modification to the truck.  You can still have a 4x4 at the end of the day, regardless of the engine and transmission installed.  That's more consistent with the truck's design and intent...Good!  In your area, 4x4 is valuable and practical. 

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indeed

dry weather today so was able to get under it proper and yes it has a transfer case between the main driveshaft and the trans 

managed to get the starter to click like i have a dead battery or bad battery conection witch is prolly bit of both since using a worn out loader battery. but thats a step forward

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If there's 12V current to the ignition switch, the "ON" pole of the ignition switch feeds to the distributor.  This system should have a ballast resistor between the ignition switch and coil, which will drop voltage down from the 12V.  The ballast resistor feeds to the "+" terminal on the coil.  The "-" terminal of the coil feeds to the distributor, i.e. the breaker points and condenser.  The ignition circuit should be fused to prevent a short burning up wiring.

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5 hours ago, Moses Ludel said:

If there's 12V current to the ignition switch, the "ON" pole of the ignition switch feeds to the distributor.  This system should have a ballast resistor between the ignition switch and coil, which will drop voltage down from the 12V.  The ballast resistor feeds to the "+" terminal on the coil.  The "-" terminal of the coil feeds to the distributor, i.e. the breaker points and condenser.  The ignition circuit should be fused to prevent a short burning up wiring.

theres no power to the cab someone choped that and the connections under the dash all need to be taken apart and serviced for corosion 

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  • 2 weeks later...

success it wants to fire though not well but i suspect i have bad plug wires as they have corsion chafing ect on them but it went after 3 spins for microsecons with gas poored in the carb and tride a bunch of times with jumper cables from the ram. as finding a good battery seems to be impossible with out taking a day off work to drive 800kms round trip gues i need to take a day and do a shoping trip

 

was out there last night with the land owner (who i bought it off) haveing some brews and a nice fire by the lake got this

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The long trip back!...Unique truck, worthy of attention.  Sounds like you're busy, this is the time of year, we're heading toward cold weather.

Guessing the entire cooling system (radiator, engine block, etc.) is drained?  Will you leave the truck in this wooded area for the winter or try to get it out? 

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its a small garage more to get it out of the eliments has a wood stove pipe on the roof if i need heat no power im just wanting to get it stored befor i disapear for 10 weeks for training im taking. 

 

might have aces to another garage thats heated but i gotta sort that out with my father. or if i cans score another house garage for my collection down the lane then maybe that

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had a chain of booster cables from one to another to boost it. true bush test... dodge ram battery stolen then crv to boost the ram to boost its battery sitting in the ih 

it was sitting in gear when doing this so it tride to move then change the shifter and it tride going backwards took a few trys to figure out what position is park but it apears the transmision has life in it as well.

put air in the flat tire pumped up right away see if it holds air over night.

 

rig up a boat tank to give it gas tomarrow eve and get it out of the raspberies

 

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wish hadnt started pooring out almost had it moved started to jack the front wheels that are sunk in after spining the wheels trying to go forward and backwards it wants to move and thats with a boat tank hooked up on the roof to the carb

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lost power few times but got it moved dam positive lead on the starter snaped/fell off a few times

got rad filled up though and hose installed

and slowly it was coming to life

even the breaks were starting to want to do stuff when i parked it for the night

no grinding noise or sqeeling or squeeks aka no arthritic noise's one would expect to hear.

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Oh, boy!  It's alive and running under its own steam.  Out of the raspberries, the I-H 4x4 looks much better.  Potential here, your instincts were good.  This move is just in time for the freezing weather.  You can now see what you have here and make plans. 

How does the beast steer with manual steering?  It's a slow ratio steering gear with lots of turns lock-to-lock.  Those closed knuckles at the front axle offer plenty of feedback...Drain the block.

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Drain the block was a reminder if you filled the Mopar V-8's cooling system with straight water...Prior to use of Saginaw recirculating ball steering gears, the steering gears on the I-H pickups were either Ross or Gemmer.  The ratios were slow (lots of turns lock-to-lock), so it's likely the truck steers well with manual steering.  What year is the chassis?  I'll research the steering gear.  Have you found the I.D. plate?

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no luck on id plate yet not seeing one or im blind

either 61 or 62 not sure yet aware of the number on the frame havent looked at that yet

i put proper coolant for -50 weather im not wanting to kill it befor i get it fixed

 

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-50 ought to do it!  1961 or '62 would be a Ross or Gemmer steering gear.  Code or housing casting number will confirm actual type/application.  Found a good parts reference at eBay.  Check this out and copy: 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/184588765889

Looks like the inline six would have been a 240 or 241 (BD design).  I worked on these engines, they were rugged four-main bearing OHV design but certainly not world beaters for horsepower.  I can understand why your truck got a V-8 transplant, a big one at that!

Moses

 

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its home other then the valve stem wouldnt take air so i had a low tire witch survived the drive had it up to around 50-60kph witch then u could feel that low tire but at lower speeds it stayed straight and steering again was so light and easy for a manual. hell i layed back in the seat in cruize mood for a minut with a smile on my face.

have to source a new cluster for it eventualy as the guts from this one are all water damaged from condisation over the years 

just like the rest of the electrical

 

also need to find a new lower hinge for the drivers door. looks like what ever the pin went into broke 

and hpefully it will fit in my garage for now need to move my collection of windows and glass outa there first about 3/4 done that move to my storage workshop house

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fo rnow it goes it into my garage once i finish cleaning it out witch it needed to be done anyways so kids dont trash it on me going to school for 4 months 1200kms away

 

pulled a couple parts off it to clean up but yea i need to tare it right down and clean it someone had startedwork on fixing it sometime in the last 15 yrs (who died) so i got lots work to pick up from 

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it just fits with the door closed if bench was any deeper thats built in it wouldnt of

 

cleaned out all the trash in the box didnt find any rust holes in it.

 

box.jpg.115befb1a0b5b9070a3e6db1ca0d3a03.jpg

was full of trash and rotting plywood so cleaned it out allot better shape then i was expecting nice surprize 

 

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theres 1 dent and a tare where a bolt riped out otherwise yea its in pritty good shape. sat with a box cover on it all these years as well whileparked protecting it sept for thebit of water that got in at theback

 

what should i do for cleaning the rust just put rust converter on it then a expoxy finish of some sort?

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kool 

 

looking through there see a product for coating inside of stuff sweet. sept that everything comes canada post even if its ups or fedex ect so i cant get airsol products mailed here seen engins show up at the post office kinda comical when that happens the town has to come unload it for them with the 930

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If you're looking for POR-15, it's likely available throughout Canada to avoid the shipping hassle...Here are two Calgary sources:

Global Auto Body Supplies, Ltd.

Phone:  403-930-7899

Calgary Body Shop Supplies, Ltd.

Phone:  403-287-2372

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There are two outlets at Winnipeg.  Like the Calgary sources, I found this one by simply going to the official POR-15 website (https://www.por15.com): 

Chase Auto Body Supplies

1338 Border Street, Winnipeg R3H 0M9

Phone:  1-800-486-3111

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  • 5 months later...

clusters going to need work but works guna to need bulbs opened it to clean the dirt out. and one bulb fell apart the carboard bits are pristine for the bulbs the gasket needs to be replaced

stopped at a hot rod shop in wpg to ask advice on plugs oil filters ect in january and the owner of the shops jaw droped found me everything i needed wound up chatting for 2 hrs he just couldnt get over it. was pleading with me to bring it down to car shows once i get it road worthy 

its finaly warming up got the vin from the frame sb 206*** whats the site that has the sale sheet look up for it. now that i wana do that i cant find them anymore

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drive side and pasinger side floor are pooched need to order those pan kits soon as i get back to working 

also found a person that just move up here that did allot of rebuilding old jeeps shoing me repairs he did to rusted floors and such guna do a trade with him to weld in the pans for me when the parts come

 

prolly get away with just cleaning the back seat floor up and coating with anti rust stuff priming with zink paint and then a armor coating of some sort

 

and whats those 3 bushings for under the rear seat

rust1.jpg.5c2b68b0390db8603786d806eeb2d056.jpg

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front see floors are pooched drivers side had a screw in pan patch i need to take out but not till im ready to weld in the new stuff as i need to be able to drive it in and out

1616476980_rust3.thumb.jpg.d36ebe0fbdb6f1b2b609638f6f9c09ab.jpg

 

passinger.jpg.03be403f4b949226536872c256c1d0b2.jpg

whats the bracket for under the pasinger side floor thats hanging down where the hole is visible^^

 

 

 

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Welcome back to the project, 1ajs!...School went well?  This project is ambitious, and it looks like you're back in the thick of it.  Can't make out the bracket under the floor pan (passenger side).  Is it a cab/floor pan support?  Is there a cushion mount there?

Amazing that you can find new/replacement floor pans.  Great that you found someone capable of welding them in properly.  The transmission tunnel has perforation rust on the driver's side.  Will the new floor pan reach into that area?  

Regarding the rear floor bushings under the seat frame, could that be part of the original factory jack mount?   

Glad you found the Line Ticket source.  Your research there could prove interesting.

Moses

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