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It so happens my passenger rear brake cylinder is leaking - so I'll have to pretty much do exactly what you're asking, and I'd be happy to shoot some pics.

I'm not sure what your timeline is, but I should be pulling it apart this week - or the weekend, at the very latest.

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  • 1 month later...

 Life got in the way last week, however - while finishing up my interior refurb project yesterday, also completed replacing the rear brake shoes, both wheel cylinders, and all rear brake hardware, including flushing all brake fluid from the three bleed valves (the rear passenger wheel is the only one without a bleed valve - you bleed that circuit from the rear drivers wheel).

Back to the OP's question, the emergency brake adjust is a single 10 mm bolt adjuster right behind the rear e-brake lever:

20210508_150014.thumb.jpg.e92a7a873256cbeaa59227bb850e828a.jpg

You can see here that the cables are uneven - hopefully yours are even.  The upper cable in the photo leads to the rear drivers wheel, and barely engages when the lever is pulled, but the lower cable in the pic (rear pass) engages fine and locks it up VERY tight.  I haven't gone any further to diag why my cable is frozen yet, but it's not a big deal (to me) at the moment.

You just have to remove whatever is covering your e-brake lever.  My Tracker had a simple cover over it when I got it, but I later ordered a different cover that includes cup holders, so your Tracker might be different again.  It was easy to access in any event, however - two screws and two body pins, and the cover sort of slides & twists off the lever, exposing what you see in the pic.

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Now, for rear drum removal and pad inspection, it's quite easy.

Remove the rear wheel(s).  You will see four axle studs/nuts (17 mm I think?) with lock washers.  Remove these nuts, and; if the drum is tight, just find your best beatin' iron & smack it in between the wheels studs, and it should begin to work its way off - at some point you'll be able to wiggle, jiggle and pull it off completely.

Here is a pic of the drum and the holes where the axle studs push through:

Drum.thumb.jpg.c7ae876e54c48221e99f4b7f08a43d2c.jpg

 

I thought I was going to need a puller of some sort to get the drums off, but, again (with hearing / eye protection!!), just whack these areas and it should begin to work itself off:

DrumRemoval.thumb.jpg.8cc73ea783398b5d0fcbdcf0b2339f46.jpg

 

And here is what the axle studs look like with the drum removed:

20210506_202319EDIT.thumb.jpg.5d3b1562516ad171b1e47f730512a461.jpg

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To adjust the rear brakes, you don't have to; it's automatic.  As with most vehicles, drive backwards a few times and firmly brake to a quick stop - that should set them.  If you're installing new brakes, there is a mechanism you'll want to be sure to release or otherwise relax - the drum won't fit until you do.

The self adjust mechanism is here - it's a spring-loaded ratcheting mechanism - I was able to release mine with a small screwdriver - gently pry the two ratchet pieces apart, away from each other horizontally, and when the teeth disengage the spring should return it to a favourable position (you'll know when you get it right - it'll just 'pop' into place), and the drum should slide on easily.

AdjustRelease.thumb.jpg.667a891fef41b992104e3704bd0880d7.jpg

 

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