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1967 Dauntless V6 Rebuild/Carb Q


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Good afternoon. So I finally pulled the trigger on starting a willys rebuild project. Long story short I am in the process of rebuilding a 1967 dauntless v6 that I rescued from a field full of cows, pigs and goats in North Georgia. The gentleman I bought the engine from was a great dude for the record. 

The engine had been sitting in the weather for several years but it did seem to be whole and intact. 

The engine is at the machine shop getting machine work done. Nothing major. It will be bored .030 over and have the crank ground. Heads will be next. 

So to my question about the carb. As I clean up the parts and pieces to go back on the engine as I rebuild it I found that the carb is in pretty rough shape and I can't locate a tag or SN on it anywhere.

Question: If I were building this project with no carb to start with at all and had to buy a new one what should I buy???

The jeep is not being built as a rock crawler, parade vehicle or any other kind of high performance application. I will drive it around in the woods hunting, drive it to work every now and again and maybe a 150 mile trip to the north GA mountains now and then. 

Thanks for any feedback. If this has been covered somewhere else in the forums please point me that direction. I could not find this specific question answered any where. 

My buddy in the pic was not impressed with the barn yard jeep find.... hahahaha

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Hi, Mike...The CJ3B is my favorite of all the vintage Jeep vehicles.  A 225 Dauntless/Buick V-6 will be a major improvement.

As for 225 Buick carburetors, I am a 2G and 2GC Rochester fan.  The 225's 2G is a relatively simple carburetor that performs quite reliability.  Built to "blueprint" standards, which simply means OE matching parts and a painstaking adjustment of the linkages, you have a turnkey, long life carburetor.

The Quadrajet 4-barrel is my pick for a modified Buick V-6.  Second choice is a vintage and somewhat rare Carter AFB in the 400 CFM category.  A four-barrel requires a spendy aftermarket intake manifold like the Offenhauser Dual Port 6035DP, which is a square-flange design that will not accept a Quadrajet spread-bore carburetor.  There's the cost of an adapter to mate the Quadrajet to the square flange manifold or machining to make the carburetor fit the manifold.  This would be a costly overall proposition.  For your driving plans, it's also unnecessary.

Since the tag is missing on your carburetor, you need to clean it up thoroughly and identify the bore size, metering rods and jet sizes.  Below is a factory spec sheet for the early Jeep Dauntless 225 (Buick) V-6.  (See lower section for Dauntless 225 V-6 Rochester 2G.)  Pay close attention to the jetting, rods and bore.  You may have an original 225 carburetor that will work. 

Note that the unit described is the Kaiser/Jeep 225 Dauntless V-6 CJ version with a manual choke.  There are emissions control and non-emissions control versions outlined.  If your carburetor has a manual choke, odds are good that it will match up.  Confirm the bore sizing, jets and rods.  If this carburetor is from a Buick 225 V-6 passenger car, it should have an automatic choke.

Tag numbers in the listing are for the early Dauntless V-6 offering.  Carburetor kits coverage is easy, usually one kit fits a range of applications...The key points are bore size, jetting and tune when seeking a 2G Rochester within these specifications or close:

Early Jeep Dauntless 225 V-6 Rochester 2-Barrel Specs.pdf

Trust this helps.  You have a great vehicle for a project...

Moses

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  • 1 year later...

Hey Guys, sorry if this is off topic but I can't find anyone that can give me an insight on this.  I bought a '67 with the dauntless.  It has the original 10 gal fuel tanks and vent valves and selector valve but the placard is gone.  Does anyone know what the positions are for each tank?  I know it sounds simple but I can't seem to figure it out just running it and changing around 360 degrees. Any help would be appreciated.

J. Mund

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Justin...I'm curious whether you have the original 10.5 gallon fuel tank under the driver's seat?  The 16-gallon cross frame (rear mounted) tank came later than 1967.  Where is your second fuel tank?  Is this an auxiliary tank added on?  Some details and even a few photos would help.

Moses

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I realized that I never closed the loop on this post that I started. 
Carb update. 
I found a guy in Atlanta GA who rebuilt the carb for me. Georgia Carburetor. 
I sent him the carb as is. 3 weeks and $250 later I had my carb back rebuilt. When it came time to start the rebuilt engine for the first time the carb didn’t disappoint! The engine started right up and idled perfectly. It responded quickly as I cycled the linkage and ran the engine RPM up and down! 
 

Mike

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I have given myself until the end of October! I believe I will make it. My to do list is getting smaller! I didn’t work on the Jeep  much this summer. 
yesterday I built a front bumper from a piece of 2”x3” x 1/4” wall rectangular tube. 
min the next two weeks I will disassemble the body, sand and coat the under side of the tub, paint the entire body and all parts. Reassemble and wire it. Oh and need to get the drive lines modified. Lengthen the rear and shorten the front. I found a place near Atlanta that will modify the existing drive line for a decent price. 
it’s finally out of the 90s every day so I will make good progress in the next 6 weeks. 
I am getting excited to get it out on the road for the first time! 

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Pleased to see the progress, Mike...I can understand the temperature obstacle, we were in drought, record breaking heat and the NorCal fires all summer.  The two major fires at finally 2/3rds contained, we had a lot of heavy smoke for a long, long time.  4,000 pairs of boots on the ground at the Lake Tahoe Area/Caldor Fire alone.  Heroic effort on the part of firefighters.

I am getting a Cool Boss evap cooler for hot weather.  It's currently on a slow boat from China (literally) and will be here by month's end.  With current projections, the hot weather will persist later than usual, so I'll likely use the cooler in October.  Next summer I'll be ready.  Unfortunately, at your neck of the woods, humidity is too high for efficient evaporative cooling.  We're arid and low humidity, the cooler will deliver a 15-26 degree F drop in temp depending upon ambient conditions.

So, you must be anxious to see that CJ on the road.  It will all be worth it, such a thorough effort!

Moses

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You guys out west have had a rough few years with the drought and all of the fires. I have a good friend who lives in Sacramento and owns property near Reno. He has expressed the same concern! 

That cooler will be a big relief! You are right the humidity here is hard to hide from or correct with a cooler. The best defense is a nice breeze blowing. 

Thanks for the ongoing encouragement. I look forward to that first trip from my house to work! It is about 10 miles from my house to the sawmill on country roads. The CJ3B may become my daily driver to get to work and back. 

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