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I just bought a '93 Explorer four door,with a 5 speed,for $350.00. Its main issue is the clutch master cylinder is shot,it has a new slave cylinder. Drove it home from Wells to Elko,about 50 miles,and it drove GREAT! It needs a bunch of little stuff done,door hinges,a gauge replacement,a power window repair etc.but what I want to know is how to convert the full time 4WD to part time with locking hubs. The 4 wheel drive doesn't work-the seller says he tracked it down to the T/C motor,so if I'm going to work on it I'd like to see if there's a way to change it over to a cable shift or better yet an actual linkage and shifter. Any ideas anyone? Is a kit offered somewhere?

   Speed

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Speed, here is a well thought out thread at the Ford Explorer site for '97-up V-8 Explorers.  Using F150 part-time TC components is an apparent angle, though none of this would be without electronics and electrical work.  There are driveline and other considerations:

https://www.explorerforum.com/forums/index.php?threads/convert-v8-awd-to-bw-4406-manual-shift-a-how-to-thread.166726/

This may provide some ideas about the 1993 that you bought...Dig a bit deeper...Is this the V-6 engine?  I only see a V-6 listing for 1993.  If so, this should be the very reliable 4.0L Capri engine.

Moses

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What I'm hearing is that the shift motor is a weak point on this system,though on this truck I think there's an electrical issue. Neither switch on the dash lights up,so today I'll be checking/replacing fuses and looking for a possible relay that might also be faulty. I suppose if I can make it work again I can live with the electric shift set up until Spring. Since the clutch M/C I bought comes without a pushrod or the connection to the pedal I can't do the install until Monday or so,so I've been working on other things it needs,wiper blades,light bulb replacements,adjusting doors,etc. I'll be spending some time reading the repair manual on it and studying the wiring diagrams to figure out what goes where. I'm lucky,my favorite wrecking yard over in Wells has 3 of these,so parts shouldn't be a huge problem. BTW-all the gauges work fine except it hasn't shown any oil pressure;I suspect the wire's off the sender,or the sender's bad. I know replacing the sender on the BroncWorth gave it 15 pounds more oil pressure,'course it was already showing about 20#'s warmed up. This one is completely flatlined,making me think the wire's off or broken.

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   A new development on the clutch issue. The P.O. apparently lost the clutch M/C,pushrod AND the "slave cylinder" he said he replaced is a hydraulic release bearing,so I'm pretty sure he wouldn't have pulled the transmission just to replace a throw-out bearing. it doesn't look to have been tampered with,so I ordered a new one piece sealed and bled clutch hydraulic set up,and a new clutch. Once it arrives I'll pull the transmission out a couple of feet,send the flywheel to be resurfaced and reassemble it with new parts. Also,I expect to have to replace some power window switches and the power mirror switch,since both mirrors adjust but only one direction. A couple of window switches are sketchy too. I might get a can of contact cleaner and see if I can "tune 'em up". 

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   On the electric T/C,I checked out the link you posted. Thanks for posting it. I've decided my best bet will be to make the stock set up work again,and spend some time researching other ways to get the set up I want,maybe an earlier pre-electric shift transfer case,like the one in my '84 BroncWorth,could be arranged.

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Here's what I've heard...

14 hours ago, Speed said:

What I'm hearing is that the shift motor is a weak point on this system,though on this truck I think there's an electrical issue.

I think you're right...You can isolate and test the shift motor; if it works okay, there is a module or electrical issue...

Neither switch on the dash lights up,so today I'll be checking/replacing fuses and looking for a possible relay that might also be faulty. I suppose if I can make it work again I can live with the electric shift set up until Spring. Since the clutch M/C I bought comes without a pushrod or the connection to the pedal I can't do the install until Monday or so,so I've been working on other things it needs,wiper blades,light bulb replacements,adjusting doors,etc. I'll be spending some time reading the repair manual on it and studying the wiring diagrams to figure out what goes where. I'm lucky,my favorite wrecking yard over in Wells has 3 of these,so parts shouldn't be a huge problem. BTW-all the gauges work fine except it hasn't shown any oil pressure;I suspect the wire's off the sender,or the sender's bad. I know replacing the sender on the BroncWorth gave it 15 pounds more oil pressure,'course it was already showing about 20#'s warmed up. This one is completely flatlined,making me think the wire's off or broken.

The orifice size on many oil pressure senders is too small and tends to clog...Big problem with Jeep 4.2L inline sixes in the late CJ era...Couldn't clean it out, either, a new sender was the only fix...Also check the resistance on the sender circuit, especially the grounding lead.  Senders are sensitive to resistance and require accurate grounding resistance.

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   A new development on the clutch issue. The P.O. apparently lost the clutch M/C,pushrod AND the "slave cylinder" he said he replaced is a hydraulic release bearing,so I'm pretty sure he wouldn't have pulled the transmission just to replace a throw-out bearing. it doesn't look to have been tampered with,so I ordered a new one piece sealed and bled clutch hydraulic set up,and a new clutch. Once it arrives I'll pull the transmission out a couple of feet,send the flywheel to be resurfaced and reassemble it with new parts. Also,I expect to have to replace some power window switches and the power mirror switch,since both mirrors adjust but only one direction. A couple of window switches are sketchy too. I might get a can of contact cleaner and see if I can "tune 'em up".

Lots of detail work, but considering what you paid for the rig, you're well ahead of it.  Sounds like a keeper...

 

 

14 hours ago, Speed said:

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   On the electric T/C,I checked out the link you posted. Thanks for posting it. I've decided my best bet will be to make the stock set up work again,and spend some time researching other ways to get the set up I want,maybe an earlier pre-electric shift transfer case,like the one in my '84 BroncWorth,could be arranged.

Worth exploring that prospect!

 

 

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I just acquired a manual shift T/C that,at first glance,looks like it'll work in my Exploder. It was removed from a Ranger around the same age (?) because the owner thought it was the cause of a vibration,but even with another T/C the vibration remained just as bad. It was traced to a bent driveline.

   I'm not at all familiar with these Ford set-ups,so I don't know how this'll work out. Might need driveline work,and will need a shifter. don't know yet if it'll bolt to my transmission. I notice when I change the hubs to locking hubs there's an "adapter kit" I'll need (for an additional $60.00). What does it consist of,and why is it needed?

   Used to be the Ford dealer's Parts Man could tell me what fits,what doesn't and what it takes to MAKE it fit anyway,but this kid doesn't know anything about vehicles older than 2000,and THEN,if it isn't in the books it doesn't exist. Anybody out there been through this particular swap? Any knowledge,experience or bits of wisdom will be appreciated.

   Speed

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Speed, I would use a Ranger pickup as the model to compare.  This includes wiring harnesses and coding.  A vehicle at the local recycling yard might be a helpful prototype for comparison.  I'd be concerned about any electronic interface issues or feedback sensors that might cause dash light false engine or transmission codes.  I'd print out copies of the wiring diagrams for each vehicle and lay them side-by-side.  See where the differences and similarities exist.  The mechanical concerns like shift controls should be visible in a Ranger example or donor vehicle.

Anyone have comments to add?  Hands on experience with the Ranger and Explorer would help.

Moses

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Having looked more closely,I discovered the manual T/C and the electronic T/C are both Borg Warner 1350 units but with different shift mechanisms. Everything else appears the same. I'm pretty sure the wiring will even fit both applications,but on the manual T/C the two switches might only serve as indicator lights.

    Installing the clutch master cylinder,I discover one bolt goes into a VERY hard place to reach,impossible to me. I thought of a way to bolt it in from the INSIDE,by using "clip nuts" which I'll clip over the mounting tabs on the master cylinder,then run the bolts through from the interior. I'm still not clear on the line connection;it includes a roll pin that holds the line into the master cylinder,and a rubber washer,which I'm not sure where it fits. I'll figure it out.THEORETICALLY it'll work fine.  I hope to have this one done Friday before dark-I can't wait to do an oil change on it and drive it down and fill the gas tank.

   Speed

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Closer to a reliable runner, Speed...Just in time for this cold dip, we're at 20-degrees F this morning at Fernley.  How are your late fall temps at Elko?  Glad you're wrapping up these vehicle repairs...Gonna be a winter!

Moses

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My '74 Chevy one ton is inoperable-the starter doesn't work.  MY opinion is the ignition wire's either disconnected or damaged.  The point of mentioning this is that I had an appointment to get to on Monday,but the truck wouldn't start,so I drove the Explorer,still clutchless. Once that was handled I drove over and filled the gas tank and a 1.25 gallon gas can,just for emergency use. Then I took it to a local Garage I trust to get its clutch hooked up and bled. I called this AM,Wednesday,to ask how it was going,and the mechanic said he got it assembled,filled and bled it and it still has no clutch function. I've asked him to work up an estimate to just break it down and do a COMPLETE clutch job,labor only because I have ALL the parts for it new. Hope to hear from him Friday. I don't wanna spend that much on the clutch job,but I need this thing done,and I know I'm unable to do it myself. I think the labor and parts costs are nearly the same,it looks like the labor will probably be around $500-600. I know they can't offer a Warranty if they use owner-supplied parts,but the parts are good quality and the mechanic does excellent work,so I'm not worried. In the meantime,with nothing to drive operable,I'll probably ride the Harley over to my Sister's place foe Thanksgiving dinner. Hope it doesn't snow more than a couple of inches-this bike gets pretty unstable in any more snow than that.

Happy Thanksgiving everyone!

   Speed

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Trust you made it safely to your sister's and back.  Did you take the Harley?  Considerable chill factor these days!  Trust you had a pleasant Thanksgiving dinner...Fully understand why you sublet the clutch replacement if it's a hardship due to extreme weather or a shop/tools challenge.  Smart move if you like the mechanic and his work.

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Thanksgiving Dinner was about a 7;the meat was tough and the dressing was good,but not enough. Enjoyed visiting with my Sister though. Yeah,I rode the Harley over-it was raining,but not slick. On the way home,it was SUPPOSED to be snowing hard,but it was clear skies and dry roads. Not sure what the wind chill was-temperature was about 35 degrees,not bad at all. That's been about the high in the last few days,and appears the same will be true for another week,with occasional snow/rain. WONderful!

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Turns out the new throwout bearing/slave cylinder was dysfunctional too. The Mechanic got everything in place,filled,bled properly,and it STILL won't disengage the clutch. BUT-Since I have a NEW clutch set,a NEW sealed hydraulic system for the clutch and NEW flywheel,I asked for an estimate  to install it.  Still waiting to hear back. I expect the labor to be around $500.00-600.00,and I know there'll be no warranty.  Can't wait to have it done. Once I have it operable,I think the next job will be swapping the engine in my One Ton Chevy.Having THAT done I'll have it reliable enough to run even on the freeway,though somewhat slowly.(It seems pretty "short-legged",for some reason. Maybe it's a combination of restricting my RPM's to 2,000,to reduce the oil usage and switching from the original  235/85-16's to 9.00-16.5's,)

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Used the '90 GMC to run an errand,seems to be a sound truck. I need to get the hard water haze off the windshield. A friend told me about something called "Barkeeper's Friend" he says works awesome. I'll write a review when I try it.

   Monday I'll go to DMV and get the required paperwork to apply for a duplicate title,an affidavit of non-use and an official Bill of Sale. The PO says he'll fill out all the papers but will NOT take time off from work to go to DMV with me to get this done. (I THINK I can still get a 30 say Temp. Permit on it at this point.)

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Hope you all had a Merry Christmas! 😇

After about a Month of work,I got the Explorer back,it STILL isn't fully functional but the mechanic said to drive it a little and see if it works better or worse,bring it back in a week or so and we could go from there. It got worse-well,it stays the same some of the time,is worse some of the time,I'm taking it back tomorrow to see if he can take another run at tilting the truck's nose up high on the hoist (to encourage the air to go to the lines so a pressure bleed might get the air out.) That got a lot of air out of the system with the pressure bleeder last time. 🤔I think there's some value to using vibration to jar the air bubbles loose from wherever they're hiding. He DIDN'T do that last time. Dutch suggested using an electric engraver with the point flattened and going all over the lines and M/C to make all the bubbles go to the highest point THEN bleeding it.

   ONE thing is obvious-this truck is WORTHLESS on any kind of snow,ice or mud without the 4WD working😠. (Only 1 wheel driving and no appreciable tread on it,and a clutch that drags enough to keep pushing the truck except on dry pavement.) I got in contact with the guy who owns the truck ( Bronco II) the manual shift T/C is from,he gave the truck to a friend but the friend says the shifter is still there and I can have it,so that's one less thing I need to find. Apparently the linkage is missing,but I can make that;the part I can't make is the little arm the linkage connects to that fits the stub shaft sticking out of the T/C case. I figure I could probably get by with the stock automatic hubs until I find a set of manual hubs. Not the best choice for mileage,but will work if needed.

   Not planning on ANY work on the trucks for the next 10 days or so,the high temps here will be the low/mid 20's-not conductive to working outside.🙂

   Speed

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Holiday Best, Speed...We're nearing New Year's Eve with the temps dipping as expected this time of year, Elko especially.

Here are the factory steps for bleeding a 1993 Ford F-truck or Bronco (full-size) with either the external slave or the concentric slave.  Your Explorer or a Bronco II should be similar to one type slave or the other:

1993 Ford Truck Clutch Bleed.pdf

For hydraulic brake and clutch systems, I prefer vacuum bleeding from the wheel cylinder, caliper or slave end.  This is not possible on clutch slave cylinders like the Jeep Wranglers that have no bleeder valve and use a fixed line at the slave.  One method that has worked for me is bleeding the clutch at the clutch line/fitting where it attaches to the clutch master cylinder.  Crack that fitting just enough for air and a slight amount of fluid to escape with pressure applied at the pedal.  Wedge the pedal at the applied position for a while.  Air should escape as bubbles compress.  Sometimes, it's only necessary to apply pressure and hold this pressure for a while without loosening the fitting.  Air will rise to the master cylinder as you hint.

Look over the '93 Ford truck details.  Which style clutch slave do you have on the Explorer?  What method will work? 

Moses

 

 

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The Exploder-I mean Explorer,has a hydraulic release bearing,with two stub lines coming out of the bell housing and a bleeder also outside the bell housing. As near as I can tell,the lines at the bell housing use quick couplings that keep everything sealed up until they're connected. I have some shop time booked Monday to get this thing finished. I decided the next project is a front axle rebuild on the Toyota. It's had one axle that's been a little noisy for some time,but it worked fine at 45 mph or under,but last time I locked the hubs it shook like hell even at 15 mph. I noticed it got even worse when I made a right turn. I have a couple of good axles I bought from a guy last Summer when he changed his rock crawler over to the Chevy style axles. I figure this is the time to swap the good axles in and re-seal the pinion and steering knuckles,and convert to Synthetic lube. Maybe drain and re-fill the REAR axle with Synthetic too. I wanted to go for a couple of Yukon pocket-lockers too,but their price has gone beyond ridiculous. One painful step at a time,right?

   Speed

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Similar to earlier Jeep YJ Wrangler hydraulic slave release bearing...Yes, one challenge at a time...Eventually, all gets done.  I know the drill...

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