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lowering control arm pedestals for lowered 2wd, 2dr?

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Good afternoon guys n gals.

Got a question for the Fabricators, Suspension Guru's out there..

I have a '96 2wd, 2dr, that was purchased for the intent on swapping in a 5.2 from a Grand cherokee and nv3500 from a Dodge ram1500 to a 8.25/3.55

in centering the motor with block hugger headers on it, I'm finding out that the upper control arm pedestals are RIGHT in the way of where the collector would dump.

To alleviate this, can I cut the welds of the pedestals, cut off about 2" and reweld them back on the 2wd axle? I mean, the control arms only keep the axle from torsional movement right?  It looks like I'd be able to get AT LEAST 2" maybe more!

Thanks Errol


P.S. it's going to be a "spirited" little driver to maybe later getting a hotter 5.9 after I get all the bugs worked out and such.

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Errol...Is this a 2-door, 2WD XJ Cherokee chassis/body?  I'd like to see photos of the tabs you're describing.  I'll also move this post to the forum that will draw attention to the chassis type.

I have some thoughts but need to confirm the chassis and front axle... 


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Good morning Sir. 

Yes, its' (was) a 2dr, 2wd, 4cyl, 5spd that I swapped a '87 crx for.

The "tabs" are the pedestals that the upper/lower control arms bolt to. They are shown in the Lower/center of these pictures.

Also, NO offense, but I can't find where you moved this thread to.. I looked in the XJ section but didn't find it there, so I just continued here. (sorry. Not so intelligent on computers etc..)


Also while I gotcha here.. While at one of my 'home away from homes' (-Pull a part) I was walking out and was walking past the Dodge/Chrysler section and see 

a 6spd Getrag just sitting on the ground under a '07 Ram. Of course I just HAD to get it and found that it bolts right up to the '98 5.2 magnum! BUT, the speedo

is TOTALLY different than the nv3500. If there is a way to convert the signal to a regular speedometer let me know..

It would be kinda neat to have a SIX speed in the little cherokee.. (maybe I'll ask/make a thread on this)



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rockosocko...I just moved your topic/thread to the Jeep XJ Cherokee section.  You can find it readily now...

You have certainly made a commitment from the looks of the cutting, welding and chassis mods. You're handy with MIG/GMAW!

One concern around shortening the axle tabs that connect to the front upper link arms: axle caster angle.  Take caster into account. With the vehicle setting at normal ride height and weighted properly (engine installed, etc.), you want the front axle to set at the correct caster angle.  You can measure rough caster with an angle gauge at the kingpin center-lines.  Measure this at the steering knuckles with the front wheels pointed straight ahead.  

There is a factory provision for setting caster by adjusting the link arm length.  Make sure that shortening the axle tabs will still allow a reasonable range for adjusting caster.  I see that you have a lot of thread adjustment on the link arms.  Just make sure you have enough thread penetration into the sleeve ends when the adjustment is correct.

Another concern is the "arc of radius".  This is basically the arc that the axle's steering knuckles follow as the chassis rises and sets.  You have a tubular straight front axle.  The goal is to maintain the OEM/stock arc of radius as closely as possible.  This arc must maintain the right range of caster angles over the full range of axle travel.  The link arm tab heights are part of this equation. 

I'm good with the Getrag 6-speed.  It's a proven unit.  The AX5 and NV3500 are no panacea.  Many Jeep TJ Wrangler NV3550 transmissions are now being replaced by AX15 transmissions.


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