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Found 5 results

  1. I just wanted to share my afternoon endeavor in case anyone else is planning on doing ball joints in the near future. The vehicle is a 2007 F150 4x4. I did the simple ball joint check by jacking up the truck and prying under the tire and watching the lower ball joint. At 170k miles I’m impressed with how good of condition they were in, just a slight bit of play. Enough to warrant replacing them. I bought Mevoteck TTX ball joints, they have a great warranty and reviews were great. As always, use jack stands and secure the vehicle from moving before starting. After removing the tire, rotor, and caliper I sprayed penetrating oil on everything to be removed and then rounded up the necessary tools. I removed everything in this order once the caliper and rotor were off: 1. Tie rod end (21mm) 2. Upper control arm ball joint nut (21mm) 3. 10mm nut on the end of the axle (under the dust cap on the hub assembly) 4. Hub vacuum plate on back of spindle (3 8mm nuts) 5. Lower control arm ball joint nut (I used a 15/16”, but I believe it is a 24mm) When removing the spindle from the control arms, leave the ball joint nuts threaded on a little to prevent the spindle from falling off as shown in this photo below... I used a small hammer to knock the spindle loose from the control arms like this.... Once I had the upper spindle mount free I pulled the axle out and used a strap to keep it clear of the work area. More tapping on the lower spindle and everything is free. I kept my tire close to act as a good place to set the caliper and spindle... The next two steps are pressing out the old ball joint and pressing in the new one. Here are a few pieces of advice: 1. Do not hammer on the ball joint to break it loose unless yo a very careful to not hit the outer circumference of the ball joint. Doing so will cause damage to the control arm when pressing the ball joint out if the edges of the ball joint become deformed where the snap ring lip is. Ask me how I know. 2. Do yourself a favor and have a good quality ball joint service kit on hand. My Made in China set is garbage and added a lot of time to the job because the body of the press is no longer square and I had to constantly reposition it to keep the ball joints going in and out in a straight manner. The kit also has very few spacers and such, so I had to get creative when pressing in the new ball joint. Once the new ball joint is in lube it up, but don’t overfill it. I took the time to clean out the vacuum hub assembly and applied new grease to the seals, needle bearings, etc. I reassembled in reverse order, starting with the lower control arm to spindle mount.
  2. Ive got a 92 Ford f150 4x4 that pulls fine until it reaches normal operating temp then it quits pulling in od or high gear. Trans is an e40d over drive button on shifter. All other gears pull normally,(1st, /sec and reverse) . Fluids are fine and no leaks that I have found. Four wheel drive shift motor is defective and has been for some time ,and four wheel drive worked before it went bad. Any ideas?
  3. The oil pressure has been kind of low for a while but recently has started bouncing around some going lower then back to where it usually is. Trying to figure out if the oil pump is the only issue.
  4. Hi all ,new here. Just recently acquired a 1994 ford f150 xl 5.0L E40D transmission. wasn't running when i got it but got it running same day. Needed new fuel and a little freeing up of the throttle body. Shortly after running check engine light came on, pulled ckdex a d received cod of 123. Truck seems to operate fine but doesn't kick down to passing gear when matted. Leave battery cable off for over 5 minutes start engine and seconds later check engine light is back on. Does faulty TPS affect transmission kickdown? Other slight problem heater function remains on defrost only cant get much from mix and nothing from floor, vent works fine. Have three knob controls one for fan speed, one for temp, and one for selection.
  5. Hello, I just joined and am in need of help with my 94 f-150 with e40d trans and EFI, i changed the steering wheel and did not plug up the OD button, but it shifts into over drive at 45 to 55 mph. it stumbles and/or stalls in reverse and 1st gears! how ever it only does this after it warms up. when i 1st start it and it is cold it works fine, it only does this after it gets warmed up. Then when i drive and get to around 50 to 65 mph and just try to maintain those speeds it stumbles much like it has a miss jerking the truck! I just changed the torque converter and trans fluid. fluid is full. The fluid I put in it is "Valvoline Max Life full synthetic DEX/MERC, Mercon' LV". oh and about 6 years ago i put in a new solenoid pack. but after warm up, if i pull it down in 1st gear at a dead stop with foot on brake, it stumbles then it will catch back up and stumble again, same in reverse, sometimes it dies. I changed 'IAC' with new one and cleaned body. I looked for air leaks as best I could, but since I,m 69 years old i can't hear that good any more lol. I could not find any. I tried to pull codes with the only tester i have a "INNOVA 3145 Ford Digital Code Reader", it plugs in under the hood. codes I got was 6-10-542-634, then did it again and done the brake an gas flooring and got 225 no knock code and 632 no OD plugged up. I don't know how to pull codes for the transmission! My 1st Q is, will not having the OD plugged up cause this? If not where do I go from here? Thanks for any help
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