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I need to discuss some issues with my truck. I think there is some problem with the wheels. When I apply power brakes, the vehicle turns towards the right side. Sometimes I can experience the same issue in the normal braking also. Can somebody tell me the reason behind this? My truck is 2007 Dodge Cummins 5.9. Somebody who has experienced such problems before, please help me with the solution to resolve it.

I would like to know about one ignition issue in Cummins. Last week I was driving the truck to my home. At a particular point, I felt some acceleration issues, in the next moment the ignition went off. The vehicle was at normal speed and the road was not very crowded. So I could stop the vehicle safely without more troubles. My truck is a 2007 Dodge Cummins 5.9. What could be the reason behind this? I was thinking of consulting some local mechanics to solve this issue. But my friend told me to call the company straight. Which option would be better?

Dodge Ram/Cummins diesel owners continually strive for fuel economy and towing power. We've had an extensive discussion on these subjects and continue to seek best ways to improve performance and fuel efficiency. Our 2005 Dodge Ram 3500 4x4 with 5.9L turbo-diesel has been an ongoing test bed for fuel efficiency, performance and towing ability...We have maximized torque and performance through software tuning, improvements in towing ability, altered axle gearing and fine tuning tire diameter to match gearing. Use of oversized tires has driven many of these choices. As a practical consideration, all changes and modifications to the truck have respected OEM design and engineering. The baseline has been factory Mopar/Cummins diesel tune and factory equivalent gearing. In the interest of Cummins Ram truck owners who use oversized tires and a chassis lift, I have put together tuning tips, axle gearing comparisons and carefully picked wheels and tires that provide a framework for matching tires and gearing for fuel efficiency. The how-to HD video illustrates additional pointers on proper tire mounting and balancing for large, heavyweight or oversized tires. Here is the entire article and permanent URL page at the magazIne. PDF charts are available at the article: http://www.4wdmechanix.com/selecting-tires-and-wheels-for-optimal-handling-gearing-and-fuel-efficiency/ Pleased to continue the discussion here! Moses

The magazine's Dodge Ram 3500 needed rear driveshaft work. Megatron had tremendous praise for Driveshaft Specialist, Inc. at San Antonio, Texas, for the build they did on his '06 Ram Mega-Cab pickup...I contacted Brent Crownover at DSI, and we discussed driveshaft upgrades at length, deciding that the best solution for our Gen 3 Ram 4x4 was the 'Big 5.0' product, a high end build. View this HD 1080P how-to video and see why, how and when you need to upgrade your 4×4’s driveshafts! Whether your 4×4 truck is a late-model Ford F-series or a Dodge Ram with a non-rebuildable driveshaft system, or you have a lifted hybrid Jeep 4×4, or you’ve built a highly modified Ram Cummins, Ford Powerstroke or G.M. Duramax diesel powered 4×4 truck with single or dual rear wheels, Driveshaft Specialist, Inc. has the ultimate driveshaft upgrade solutions. In the video, learn more about driveshaft service and upgrades like the ‘Big 5.0’ one-piece replacement driveshaft for trucks with a two-piece OE driveshaft. See how we solved the one-piece driveshaft needs on our 140.5″ wheelbase Gen 3 Dodge Ram 3500 4×4 Quad-Cab Cummins powered hauler! To see the full article, visit the designated page at the magazine: http://www.4wdmechanix.com/dodge-ram-how-to-dsi-big-5-0-aluminum-driveshaft-upgrade/ Enjoy! Moses

I am in a bit of a conundrum, have read numerous posts (including yours) and thought maybe you might be able to help, if you have time. I have an elementary knowledge of alignment and components, am ok with a wrench, understand geometry completely (Diamond method you presented makes perfect sense to me), but am limited with shop and tools. Although, I have gotten my tractor back to the shop with a screw driver and a vice grip when the ball joint broke in the field, but that is a different story. A bit of history on my truck. Original owner, 158k miles, New XFR 0* ball joints, new tie rod ends, newer DSS steering stabilizer (source automotive), New gen 3 track bar upgrade w/ pitman arm (source Automotive). There are no other non-OEM components, other than the air filter, and an amsoil bypass oil filter system. Power steering is right on the money, no chatter, whining or vibration in the steering column when turning. This truck has NEVER worn tires uneven. The tires are commercial, e rated, standard stock size tires. Have used the same brand tires since the original OEM's were worn out. I generally get 25k to 35k out of a set of tires, but I never let them get down to the indicators, I live in snow and ice country. This truck has been used as general duty. Occasional (less than 10% of total milage) gooseneck, 5th wheel, bumper pull trailers, or bed loads; ALWAYS below recommended maximum weights, verified by total and axle weights at the co-op or WHP stations. Now the problem. I installed the track bar and pitman arm upgrade when the OEM track bar bushings wore out. I had a local shop replace the ball joints and tie rod ends as they were worn as well, and they sent it to an alignment shop. When I got the truck back it drifted (not a real pull, but not entirely correct, and definitely more than before the work was done) to the right, even on a flat surface. I was told that the only way it could be fixed was to change out the upper ball joints with offsets and it was as close as it was going to get. Understanding geometry, but not the components involved, this seemed awkwardly incorrect. Seemingly, if the geometry was initially correct, and the worn components were replaced, it should return to the original OEM geometric orientation. Or at least my level of logic and understanding led me to believe that. Unfortunately, I allowed the drift to continue thinking the alignment shop had at least produced an acceptable balance in the system and the drift to the right was just road camber or the the typical performance of a truck getting a bit longer in the tooth. Additionally, the alignment spec sheet did not make it to the repair shop from the alignment shop so I have no idea what he did, or more accurately, what the results of his alignment produced. Eventually, the right side of the passenger tire soon began to show wear, seemingly a camber issue based on my understanding. I took the truck to an alignment shop in Denver, which seemed to make the pull lessen a bit. They said they would email me the alignment report. Fast forward a few weeks to yesterday. I loaded some steers onto a stock trailer to take to market, about a 100 mile round trip, there was a heavy wind, which I thought was causing an significant increase in the pull to the right. However, when I removed the trailer, the pull did not lessen and now there is wear on the indside of the drivers side tire. I'm not certain if it matters, but while backing the trailer up to the chute (uphill) to unload the steer's, the back tires chattered quite excessively. To the point that I had to engage 4WD which helped back up, but did not really reduce the chatter. in addition, there is also now a bit of a low frequency vibration at highway speed. The steering wheel is now at 45*left when driving as would be expected, but the steering remains tight, and the truck does not wander. When I let the steering wheel go, the truck goes right immediately. I called the Alignment shop in Denver today and had them email me the report, and there is no Caster, Toe, Cross Caster, Cross Camber, Total Toe for the front, and no thrust angle for the rear, and all the 'actual' and 'before' values that are listed are all the same, so I have no reference data upon which I am able to at least begin a diagnosis. I can email you the report if it might help. I know there is no magic bullet, but having been laid off in october, things are a bit tight financially. I know I have to get an alignment, but my only option here in Wyoming is the guy who said it could not be done without new offset ball joints. I would like to have a better understanding, or at least have a bit of diagnosis prior to going to an alignment or frame shop. Now the question (finally) - I have not yet replaced my control arm bushings, but have checked them and they seem loose. Is it possible, or probable that the upgrades to the rest of the system, and old control arm bushings have caused the increased right pull and tire wear experienced when the stock trailer was hooked up? Are there any other components you feel may be causing this particular issue? Are there any questions I should be asking alignment shops to 'test' their knowledge? Any advice or reference you may be able to provide would be greatly appreciated. Read full message

We bought our 2005 Dodge Ram 3500 Quad-Cab 4x4 new in October 2004. The truck has been great overall, however, a major shortcoming since day on has been the OEM headlights. A wierd design, the headlamps use domed caps that capture an intense beam (in our case from replacement Sylvania SilverStar* bulbs installed several years ago) and send the light back to the reflectors, then outward in a dull, diffused pattern. Many oncoming drivers mistake the properly adjusted low beams for high beams, and neither the high or low beams are very effective. On dark or fresh black pavement, this light can literally disappear! *Note: We have not tried the Sylvania SilverStar Ultra bulbs. I'm sure they have better luminance, but that not the issue here. The actual design of the OE headlights creates the problem on this Gen 3 Ram. If others have similar issues, please share! Despite my adept night vision in low lighting conditions, I finally sought a solution after 150K miles of this nonsense. There are many quality driving lights in the aftermarket, and I chose PIAA for its Reflector Facing Technology. See the video for details on how much of a difference this makes. Whether you choose PIAA or another quality product, do yourself a favor and upgrade the front lighting on your truck. For further details, see my magazine article at: http://www.4wdmechanix.com/driving-light-upgrade-and-tests-piaa-rf6-and-lp530-lights/.

For discussion... What is the best way to set up the 2006 Dodge Ram 2500 Diesel 4x4 for heavy towing and hauling. Quad Cab/short bed. Specifically with Truck Camper and trailer. The following additions help the ride for the most part and it is a safe combo, however it is not perfect... yet. Note: Fuel mileage for the combo is a solid 13 flat/mountains highway average 62 MPH. Note: I used to haul professionally with a previous 2004.5 dodge dually and now above mentioned, the trucks worked great for bumper pull and 5th wheel experiences up to the 13,500 lb max rating, however the truckcamper is a different breed because there is so much weight in the bed and it is top heavy and you don't need sails, its like driving a billboard down the highway on windy days, so needless to say you have to stay focused. The dually is a much better choice, but I don't have it anymore... I haul a 1,800 lb Lance model 825 Truck Camper in my 6.5' bed (truck weighs 6800 lbs) Advertised Gross truck weight is 9000 lbs (2,000 ish lbs in bed depending on 30 gallons water and 35 gallons waste) and towing a 7'x16' dual axle Interstate LoadRunner trailer (trailer weights 1,800lbs, plus 1,200 lbs cargo) trailer weight is loaded 3,000 lbs. (8 ply trailer tires) Advertised Gross Combined Vehicle Weight limit is 20,000 lbs. * Firestone Airbags (5,000 lb ratings) with in cab controller for the compressor. Note: I made my own pad for the bags to sit on directly above the U-bolts on top of the axle, and this worked great because the bags were as far to the outside of the axle as possible, thus preventing the heavy camper to sway - however, when I was experimenting with tire chain installation the chains were dangerously close to rubbing, so I moved the setup in board similar to after market bag locations and they don't work as well. Note: I normally carry 38 psi in each bag when fully loaded *Torklift stableloads (these devices are a wedge pack that are manually rotated into and between the lower part of the leaf spring pack and above the single bottom overload spring on front and rear of each leaf spring pile (they make the spring pack come in contact with the overload sooner), when you are done with your heavy load, you swing them out of the way and lock them into place. Note: They work fantastic for pulling very heavy 5th wheel trailers. *Helwig rear Sway bar *Bilstein 5100 series shocks (in rear) and new Rancho adjustable XL in front (work much better than Bilsteins in front because you can adjust the ride when unloaded! *285x 70 x17 10 ply BFG All Terrain tires on stock wheels, carry 65lbs in front, 70 lbs in rear loaded, 55lbs front, 48 lbs rear unloaded *Solid ball mount with load distribution hitch rated at 10,000 lbs set on 7 links *Reese 18,000 2.5" receiver hitch bolted to truck frame in place of factory frame mounted hitch *Reese 2.5' extended hitch (to set ball mount hitch behind camper) safety chains from frame hitch to ball mount, and cross chained ball mount to frame (similar to superhitch setup) thx, Pete