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Showing results for tags 'cooling system'.
94 F350 4x4 Carb engine 5.8 351w---lifted 37x12.5x16.5 tires---410 gears---c6 trans 3 speed auto----is going up to around 220 pulling boat at 50 or over-----2000 procraft 20 ft 200 hp mercury----not pulling boat its not over heating. It has got a all aluminum radiator 3 core in it-----because of lift kit had to put a 2 fan made with shroud electric cooling for the radiator---has a 180 thermostat----fans are working fine and can feel real hot air being pulled through the radiator---here's the questions I have----should I convert fans to push instead of pull because of thickness of radiator and condenser together----should I put flex fan back on it to help keep all that hot air out of bay when and if I change fans to push instead of pull---should I go another way like electric racing cooling water pump---Been advised different ways as in changing gears in rear and front axles could do the trick but that's high as I have priced it .Every things new on this motor as well as the motor--and yes I know I should be pulling boat yet till I get more miles on it less than 500 on it now---just trying to see if there's another way I can go that might help so I can keep temp down and rpm down cause if change gears it will go up.
Hi, I've been dealing with an overheating behavior in my YJ 1989 Wrangler (4.2L with all emissions control hooked up except pulse air system, Carter BBD, Auto Trans). Long time ago I've replaced cooling fluid, It was 100% tap water that is the worst choice due to corrosion; so I decided to replace it by an ethylene glycol mix as you can find them ready to pour into your cooling system. I don't know if the coolant was poor quality but immediately after replacing the fluid I was getting the engine overheated. Perhaps it was air trapped in the system as the guy replacing the coolant did all the procedure really quick with the engine still warm... Well I had to go back to water again and the issue was solved. No more overheating during next days. Then I went wheeling several months after, when stopped the vehicle heared something like a pressurized air leak, it was the hose from the thermostat housing to the intake manifold, was cracked and ended up blown after I pulled it. So I shortened the hose and reinstall it again. Got home with overheating issues again. Bought all new hoses, including upper and lower radiator hoses. Heater was disabled so former owner plug the nipple coming from the water pump and the one on the back of the intake manifold as well, I didn't enable the heater yet but I have connected a hose between those two points to keep coolant flow through the manifold and cylinder head. Found that there was no thermostat installed, so installed one. Inspected water pump, a little bit of corrosion but the rotor and impeller was good, no play at the shaft. Refilled all the system with 50/50 mix and have to add some distilled water as I got short of coolant to top up the radiator. Fan clutch was replaced as well. I've been having random overheating, it is worst when A/C is turned on, obviously because the condenser is in front of the radiator. But sometimes runs good and the needle does not go above 210. I do not know where the needle it is supposed to be when the cooling system is working as it should. There are sometimes that random misfiring is happening, not too critical but I'm sure I'm not getting a perfect tuned engine. I've replaced the radiator cap just to discard this is the troublemaker. (13lb new one installed) Does the water to coolant swap have something to do with making debris and metal corrosion to become loose and start building a sediment inside the engine's block?