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Depending upon the year and engine source, 4.2L AMC/Jeep®/I-H version timing covers can be different than a 4.0L cover. The TDC mark may be many degrees away from the 4.0L damper mark, which is typically the damper used in a Mopar EFI conversion. Determine the true TDC for #1 piston when referencing TDC; this is determined by measuring the piston's position in #1 cylinder with the spark plug removed. The piston must stand at its peak when determining TDC. Note: Inexpensive TDC tools are available at Summit, Amazon and elsewhere: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-900189 or TDC tool at Amazon. I prefer the Amazon listed tool for its yielding contact with the piston and gauge. If your damper mark does not match up with #1 piston TDC, place the #1 piston at true TDC and scribe a timing mark on the damper to match the timing cover's TDC mark. You can add MSD or similar degree tape. For accuracy, make sure the tape matches your damper's diameter! This is one builder’s 4.0L/4.6L experience. He has a 4.0L long block from a ’98 TJ Wrangler and installed an OE 4.2L/258 crankshaft. The 4.2L crankshaft keyway did not match his OE 4.0L crankshaft keyway position: “I had stashed away parts from the 4.2 that I stole the crankshaft from to build my Stroker. Last night I dug out the timing cover and put it next to the one from my 4.0. Now I see why the notch in the harmonic balancer doesn’t line up with the tab on the 4.0 cover! The woodruff key slot on the 4.2 is cut in a different location than the key slot on the 4.0 course crank… This might be one for the forums- probably most people never even look since the timing marks won’t be used to set distributor timing but some people like me will be very confused if they do.”* *Footnote: The 258/4.2L timing cover and crankshaft source was an early seventies I-H 4.2L (AMC) inline six. The I-H/AMC 4.2L crankshaft with a unique key-way offset is the holy grail 12-counterweight type. When you're sourcing parts, know the origins of the crankshaft and the original timing cover's TDC and advance/retard tab location on the cover. 4.2L Crankshaft with 4.0L damper and timing cover. 4.2L timing cover (top) and 4.0L timing cover (bottom). Know which parts you have and always index the timing cover TDC mark with precise TDC of #1 piston. Moses
Hi everyone. I just picked up a 1977 CJ5 with s 232 and a one barrel. All the emissions was removed and the evap and EGR are still present. I have only had 4. Banger and v8 jeeps. There are 3 ports on the carb. Where do the vacuum lines hook up. I want to run the minimum amount, distributor, EGR, and charcoal canister. Any help will be great. Pictures even better, the emissions diagrams did not help since most of the parts are gone. Scott
Moses, I know this is a controversial topic, but this may be the place for discussion. I am interested in participating in a JJUSA event here in KY. One of the vehicle requirements is that the overall lift including any body lift not exceed 6". The lift on my 85 CJ7 will be real close to the limit. I have inquired JJUSA by phone and email trying to find out how and what parameters they will be using to determine vehicle lift. JJUSA has not responded, leading me to believe they don't have quantifiable parameters or are afraid to tell me in writing. I am concerned of showing up to the event after paying $500 and being disqualified and turned away without a refund. With all that being said, Is there a measurement that can be taken from axle centerline to a point on the fenders or body tub? My sheet metal and fender flares are pretty much stock, however not much stock underneath. SOA, Dana 44's front and back, reversed spring hangers, modified shock mounts, 1" body lift, etc. Thanks William
Well, I have continued to look for a CJ 7 and I have finally found one. I will have more about it once I can verify a few things, but it is in fair shape for a rust-o-ration. It has the 258 Straight 6. All I have is one picture from the PO's ad on Craig's List. Yes, this is the good side. It is all there, and all steel. Oh sure there is some rust on this side too, but overall it's a good base to work with. OK, so I paid $325.00 for it. I knew I wanted a project and I got one. It's gonna be a heck of a ride, but I have a few consolation prizes. You're looking at floor pans and other metal parts that came with the Jeep. I already have those and I'll rent a trailer and pick up the CJ on Monday.All the parts came from Quadratec so I guess they're good parts. I'll have more on this project Jeep after I get it into my yard and take my own professional pictures.