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Showing results for tags 'amc 20'.
Found 7 results
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0DD3D764-C2DF-4167-93AA-DD1FB9E6EA31.heic I bought One Piece Axles from Tens Manufacturing for my 1981 CJ5. The bearing sits .09 outside the axle end. The bearing spacer does not bottom out on the inside axle seal, the lip on the bearing spacer is actually stopping it at the bored lip inside the axle tube. I called Tens and they said to lathe down the lip of the bearing so that the bearing would sit within the .02 to .06 endplay stickout. I have two options that I see at this point ... 1) lathe down the lip on the spacer to get the bearing to seat properly, however, I feel that will affect the strength of the bearing spacer to hold the inner race and bearing in place... 2) stack up some .01 axle shims to get the desired endplay stickout, which would then require at 4 shims to get me into spec... Any suggestions? recommendations? has anyone else run into this issue??
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Hi All: I have completely butchered my rear diff drain plug on my 77 CJ7 and I guess I will have to drill it out. I cannot find a drain plug here in Canada so I was wondering what I could replace it with once I have it out as far as size and thread. The hex is a pain anyway and a nice square head bolt would have been nicer to work with. Thanks for your help. Mark -
Hello! My name is Allen and I am very new to this forum and also to working on Jeeps. I’ve recently bought a 1980 CJ7. I’m attempting to change to rear outer and inner seals. The rear end is an AMC20. My question, is there a size dimension spec for the retaining ring that is behind the inner bearing? -
I feel like I am completely missing something here. I am attempting to replace the bearings on my 1985 Jeep CJ7 with AMC 20. As you'll see in the photo, I'm down to removing the inner race("B" in image). But I am looking at the axle shaft and tit has this flare("A" in image) sticking out which as far as I can see, there is no way I could possible get the new bearing over this flare out. All of the forums and tutorials say I should be able to slide the component down the shaft for pressing, but I just don't see how this would be possible. It seems to me I have to remove the axle shaft from the hub ("C" in image) Image---https://drive.google.com/file/d/1MyfZGH_B5jCT4d-_tzVfsTVR7ulv6LWu/view?usp=sharing Can someone please set me straight? Thanks! -
Hi Im installing a new axleshaft and hub I've pressed the bearing on and slid the shaft in but the bearing doesn't seat flush is it supposed to be sticking out a 1/2 inch? I've slid the old one in and it's the same 1/2 inch sticking out does the brake plate suck it in place? -
Hello Moses, Finally got the Rinky Dink jeep through the byzantine maze that is the Calif DMV, BAR Smog Referee and the CHP. Got the title completed and a new set of plates. 1st drive reveals mucho noise and vibration from the rear axle. Long story short, the axle should have .008" end play shows .250." Open the thing up and the carrier has .125" play. Not good. I questioned whether I wanted to tackle this as I have never built an axle. Talking with my son he said, Why not, If you can build a bevel Ducati engine (8 bevel gears) you can certainly build an axle. So, this is my question. Everything is out of the axle but for the pinion. Nut & yoke off. Everything is clear. Smack the pinion with the dead blow and its not budging. There is not clearance to put a puller to from the back side. I don't want to beat the crap out of it. Any insight or suggestions on removing this?
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I was looking my 1985 Jeep CJ's amc 20 rear axle today and realized that there is no fill plug on the cover. How do you put any fluid in it after draining it? l'm definitely NOT an expert at this. Your advice?
