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Showing results for tags 'Jeep CJ-7'.
Found 18 results
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I have an 82 cj with a dana 30 low pinion with 2:73 gears. I want to put 4:10 gears in it. Can I use a carrier and ring and pinion from a TJ wrangler or 2000-2001 XJ Cherokee mentioned in the dana 30 rebuild how to. I'm sure my pinion is long. I'm not sure if they are in the models mentioned above. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks, Mike -
I saw this CJ-7 in a barn and it attached itself to my CJ-3B recently and followed me home. I didn't know what to do so I joined this group. I only know how to work on F-heads. I started rubbing on the paint and now its shiny again so I'm going to be forced to make it run now. The head is off and all the parts are in the back. I don't know anything about these modern jeeps (1977) so I think I will need the re-builder's guide. It has a 258 with a 4 speed (granny?), a Spicer 20 transfer case, Front disk brakes, Non-power steering. Factory side mounted spare. Original factory paint (Tawny O -
Happy New Year to you and yours! I'm rebuilding a T-19 transmission for my Jeep CJ-7, replacing the T-5. Assuming the gears and case are in usable condition, I have a core. I've read the T18 section of the CJ Rebuilder's Manual, and I have the Novak rebuild guide as well. From what I've seen, it certainly seems more basic than the T5. The mass is going to be a challenge if anything needs to be pressed into or out of the case! -
I guess it must be the time of year for failing T-5's! Several months ago I rebuilt mine with help from the forum. After, the 2nd gear synchronization was fixed, but the other problem remained. Shifting was fine 1-5, however after running in 5th on the highway and coming to a stop, I had difficulty moving the shifter into anything other than 4th gear. Early on, it just required a little pressure to get into 4th then all other gears were accessible. Over the last few months, the problem has gotten worse to the point that on several occasions I've been stuck at a light or stop sign tr
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I posted a few months ago about transmission options for my CJ-7. I was leaning toward swapping in an AX-15, but it seems like a pretty pricey and involved swap. I decided to just get a rebuild kit for my T-5 and get back on the road. It lasted for 33 years with poor gearing (3.31) and 33" tires for most of it. Unfortunately, I pulled it out today and found significant side play on what I believe are the input shaft (clutch shaft?) and the main shaft. I'm going to post a brief video for clarification. I've been told that the input shaft of this transmission is prone to wear, as it is
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Ok, here is my situation. i am new to the the jeep owners world. I have wanted a cj since I was 13 yrs old and I finally got one about 2 months ago. I bought an 85 cj7, it has a 2.5 l 4 cyl with a t4 transmission. I bought it with the expectation of putting in a different motor and trans, however, what I did not count on was how much body work I would end up having to do. The body work has taken a huge chunk out of my budget for the motor. A buddy of mine gave me a 4.0 out of his 88 comanche. the engine ran but had been sitting for 7 yrs and all of the seals leaked, including the main -
I was looking my 1985 Jeep CJ's amc 20 rear axle today and realized that there is no fill plug on the cover. How do you put any fluid in it after draining it? l'm definitely NOT an expert at this. Your advice?
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I have a cj7 that I am going install an AMC 360 with Howell injection, mild cam, and a little head work. My question is how well will the Borg warner t5 held up? Bad idea? Or is swapping to a np435 or nv4500 mandatory? -
Well, progress has been slow due to work and family, but I spent a solid 6 hours on the CJ-7 project last night. I bought a new clutch linkage kit, as my lower and upper clutch rods were worn half way through, and the bellcrank was a mess. The new kit has an adjustable lower linkage rod with a ball joint instead of the old bent solid rod. And.....cue swearing. The 4.0 swap exhaust routing must be slightly different from stock (it's some kind of welded header instead of a cast iron manifold) because the ball and socket joint whacks the exhaust down tube solidly when the clutch pedal com
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Member Spdljohn began a brake and chassis frame-off restoration topic that has now expanded into discussion of the use of a shackle reversal kit on a 1976-86 Jeep CJ-5, CJ-7 or Scrambler/CJ-8. Below is the topic thread that member Spdljohn began...Join us and share your experience with the shackle reversal kit! Moses -
By 1972, AMC/Jeep Corporation was in full swing, producing the new generation Jeep 4x4s! This era represents the legendary CJ models that grew the brand to new heights and set benchmarks for engineering, design and sales. Join others who own and appreciate this unique group of vehicles, the 1972-86 CJ-5, CJ-6, CJ-7, Scrambler/CJ-8 and third generation AMC/Jeep Jeepster/Commando models!—Moses Ludel Moses Ludel's second Jeep® CJ Rebuilder's Manual, covering 1972-86 AMC/Jeep® models. These years brought the Jeep CJ to the forefront, and consumers flocked to outdoor lifestyles and the popula
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I am installing a front D44 front from a mid-70s Waggy in my 85 CJ-7. I have found some good write-ups on shortening the drivers side of the 44 to keep overall width the same. My current issue is that I want to convert the unit from the 6x5.5 Waggy pattern to the 5x5.5 CJ pattern. I have actually sourced a set of Ford outers, but am reading some things which concern me concerning later Waggy D44s maybe not being compatible because of some dimensional changes to the bearing. AS I am not sure of the year of the D44 I am now considering having a machine shop redrill some of the components on -
The axle shaft tapers have "teeth" that cut into the smooth surface of a new rear wheel hub casting. There is a minimum beginning axle shaft nut torque on Jeep CJs of 250 ft-lbs. For a new hub, this is followed by tightening the axle shaft nut further until you achieve the factory-specified stick-out length of the axle shaft threads (beyond the outer edge of the wheel hub). Note: I've attached the factory procedure in a PDF for those interested in the Model 20 AMC Jeep CJ axle shaft hub installation: AMC Model 20 Axle Hub Installation.pdf See your factory service manual, it will desc
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Hey I enjoyed the compressor story! Today I was able to start disassembling the transfer case I followed your procedure and took some photos. The impact driver worked great on the yoke nuts and to be honest most of what I disassembled today was very easily done. I have to admit once I learned the new to me transfer case nomenclature it went very well, I'm having fun. I noticed that the intermediate shaft had some wear, I could feel where the gears rode on the shaft. The gear teeth that I can see so far aren't showing any sign of wear I hope some of the photos will show. In th -
Hello out there! I found this forum recently and decided that I would like to do some work on a 1984 CJ 7. I will need tons of help. To begin with I have a hard time shifting from 2H to 4H to 4L and all in between. Most likely due to the fact that the Jeep is 30 years old, and likely no one has looked at the oil level in the transfer case! I have posted a couple of pictures to ask for help in identifying the transfer case on my CJ. I think it is a Dana 300? To be specific I would like to know if I could read or watch some recommended videos on the removal and proper way to rebui
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I wanted a wider,stronger less over hang flare for my 86 CJ7 widetrack with 35" tires on 10" rims. I did not want a 6" or 7" flare. So I went with a 5" flat flare from Xenon.
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I've got a 1986 CJ7 258 Weber carb, factory Dana 44 rear (re-geared to 3:73's with Lockright locker) narrowed down Scout Dana 44 front with 3:73 gears, Spartan locker, old-style 6 bolt wheel hubs, stock factory front discs, Jeep T18 4 speed to a Scout/Dana 30 transfer case, power steering cooler, AMC Concord A/C now, onboard air with a tank, 35" BFG muds on 10" rims. I recently added Ford 8.8 rear discs to the Dana 44 rear. I had to have the bolt pattern redrilled to 5 on 5 1/2 and cut out the middle hole bigger for the flange. I had to elongate the mounting holes and bracket holes, mount -
Disc brake conversions are popular, and I cover that topic in my Jeep CJ Rebuilder's Manuals (1946-71 and 1972-86 Editions, Bentley Publishers). Whether the CJ has a four-drum system or a disc front/drum rear system, the master cylinder must be considered during a disc brake conversion. There are two master cylinder concerns when converting to disc brakes: 1) the piston bore size and fluid volume per stroke of the pedal and 2) any "residual valves" that might have been used for the drum brakes. For disc brakes to work, the master cylinder must have enough fluid displacement to apply the
