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Showing results for tags 'Jeep 4.2L'.
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Many Jeep owners need how-to information on checking valve clearances and adjusting the hydraulic valve lifters on the inline 232, 258 and 4.0L six-cylinder engines and the 2.5L Jeep pushrod engine. Between the model years 1971 and 2006, Jeep used these AMC-design 232, 258 and 4.0L sixes and the 2.5L straight four-cylinder engine (1983.5-2002). The hydraulic lifter and valvetrain design has particular needs, especially the valve clearances. When these engines develop valvetrain noise, owners often think a valve adjustment will cure the problem. In each of these AMC/Jeep engines, valve clearances are set during assembly of the engine, and adjustment is not necessary between engine rebuilds. If your engine has developed valvetrain noise, or if you are in the process of rebuilding the engine and need to know more about setting valve clearances, my HD video from 4WD Mechanix Video Network at Vimeo will assist. This video was originally a Q&A Vlog at the magazine, now available for a broader viewing audience through Vimeo. Moses -
Valvetrain noise and rocker arm interference after cylinder head work can be issues on the AMC design engines. Causes can include sluggish oil flow through the hydraulic lifters, the lifters bleeding down, or possibly excess valve/lifter clearance from valvetrain wear. At 200K miles, that's a very real possibility. Another possibility, since you're certain it's not a lower end bearing noise, is a carbon buildup knock (not likely with an MPI engine) or a piston-to-wall clearance issue. Piston skirt wear is likely, too. It works like this: Pistons naturally expand from heat. There is the normal piston-to-wall clearance to accommodate expansion when new. Over time, the cylinder bore wear creates cylinder "taper" toward the top of the cylinder. The piston skirts also wear. Over time, the cylinders and pistons wear. Cold, the engine was noisy, the pistons expanded, and for a while, anyway, the engine quieted down when warm. Now, the lifters are clacking, the cylinders are worn, the pistons have worn, and you get the sound effects! Another noise can be piston pin wear, which causes a double-knock rap...You would notice this clearly as a dominant sound when the engine is unloaded and you tip the throttle in and out. Use of an automotive stethoscope, a copper tube or a piece of PVC tubing can help isolate engine noise. Be aware that these noises will be transmitted widely and very exaggerated while using these sounding probes! At 200K miles, these engines have done a heroic job tugging a Jeep around. 2.5L models with 4.10:1 axle gears, which make the piston travel extreme over this many miles, wear an engine out sooner. An engine with this kind of mileage needs a suitable burial or rebuild it completely, restoring the short block and cylinder head to OEM specifications with pushrod lengths checked (changed if necessary) for proper valve clearance/lifter preload. Some want to swap an inline 4.0L six in place of the AMC 2.5L four, and that's not easy. I'd consider a smaller V-8 swap (GM LS 5.3L makes sense) as a practical alternative. The Jeep YJ and TJ Wrangler frames are, for unfathomable reasons, designed specifically for either an inline four or a six-cylinder inline engine. (You can see photos of the motor mounts I fabricated during a 4.0L swap into a 2.5L YJ Wrangler, and frankly, it would have been just as easy to install a hybrid V-8.) Granted, the 4.0L radiator, shroud and transmission locations were straightforward, although a four-cylinder YJ/TJ model uses an AX5 transmission, which would be replaced by a 4.0L's AX15 transmission. Aside from fabricating motor mounts, there would be wiring, cooling, exhaust, the AX15 transmission, 4.0L PCM setup and other changes. Moses
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Many Jeep owners need how-to information on checking valve clearances and adjusting the hydraulic valve lifters on the inline 232, 258 and 4.0L six-cylinder engines and the 2.5L Jeep pushrod engine. Between the model years 1971 and 2006, Jeep used these AMC-design 232, 258 and 4.0L sixes and the 2.5L straight four-cylinder engine (1983.5-2002). The hydraulic lifter and valvetrain design has particular needs, especially the valve clearances. When these engines develop valvetrain noise, owners often think a valve adjustment will cure the problem. In each of these AMC/Jeep engines, valve clearances are set during assembly of the engine, and adjustment is not necessary between engine rebuilds. If your engine has developed valvetrain noise, or if you are in the process of rebuilding the engine and need to know more about setting valve clearances, my HD video from 4WD Mechanix Video Network at Vimeo will assist. This video was originally a Q&A Vlog at the magazine, now available for a broader viewing audience through Vimeo. Moses
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Thanks for the detailed and quick reply Moses, very interesting tech. I think you're right it is probably multiple worn parts making clattering together. I am looking forward to tearing down this engine one day and seeing how it looks/checking the wear. This is Mike at MCE Fenders (MCE Mike on Facebook) and this is the lime green Jeep in our photos. (Also emerald green before it was painted) I've owned this Jeep since I was 16 in 2000. You are absolutely right, this is a testimonial for this engine. I am absolutely amazed at how problem free and durable this engine is. Since it doesn't have much power, and had larger than stock tires on it since ~60,000 miles, this engine spent a lot of time at full throttle and/or high RPM. It has had 31s and 4.10s for a few years, 33s and 4.10s for about 6 months, 33s and 4.88s for a few years, and has been on 35s with 4.88s since 2008. I could also go on about all the times it spent revving high in the snow, breathing dust in the Moab and PNW silt, and it has overheated a few times due to a water pump and electric fan issue. I always just kept the oil changed. I am probably not going to do an engine swap for a while - just not enough time right now and focusing on other Jeeps and the company, but am collecting ideas on what to do. I am definitely leaning towards a small V8. I don't want a huge powerhouse, I rather have reliability of the entire Jeep rather than a HP number on paper. So was thinking a Vortec 4.8 or possibly a 5.3. From the research I have done, the Magnum 5.2 and 5.9 are the "easiest" swaps for my TJ electrically, so those are also on the drawing board. One other idea is to try 505 Performance's new 2.5L stroker kit and head. (2.7 and 2.9 options) But I am still researching this. While the sound and power of a V8 is fun, keeping the light 4 banger but adding power might also be fun. In '08 I swapped the AX-5 for an NV3550 with junkyard parts, and bolted on a NV241-J to that. So I am thinking they will be fine with either option. The front axle is a high pinion 30 out of a Cherokee. This would probably be fine for the stroker 4 cyl. option, but probably need replacing for the V8. This Jeep doesn't have a rear axle at the moment, but it will probably get a D44 when I have time to get to this project. Too many options, haha! Mike -
Hi all, found this little gem of a forum after trolling the internet for some answers. Seems like a lot of smart people (smarter than me at least) here, so thought I would pick ya'll brains. A little background. I am installing a Painless (oxymoron) 10150 Direct Fit Harness to my California 1984 CJ7, plus installing a Howell TBI kit, with a MSD Street Fire CDI. There are some issues that need to be clarified to me, and may benefit others too. So I will expose my ineptness for the benefit for all. I will limit this to one pressing question for now. Per Howell instructions-"After the grounds are secured, route the labeled purple and orange wires to the starter solenoid on the right hand fender well or to the starter. These wires each have a lug that attaches to the stud on either side of the solenoid or starter. (FIGURE 11) The orange wire is battery power and connects on the battery side of the solenoid or the positive post of the starter. The purple wire connects on the opposite side of the solenoid or to the starter solenoid post of the starter. Connect the labeled white wire to the ignition coil negative terminal to pick up a tach signal. NOTE: Multiple spark discharge ignitions require a special tach filter to function correctly. Contact Howell Engine Developments if you need one." So the inept question time. I have a Multi spark ignition. I am attaching the Howell Orange and Purple wires to solenoid per instructions if that matters. However, should I purchase the special tach filter (as recommended by Howell) to connect the tach signal for the ECM from the CDI, or can I just connect the WHITE WIRE to the negative (-) terminal of the coil and be golden (or is that a bad idea)? If coil connection is ok, is there a benefit to connecting to the CDI over the coil? The only thing I can think of that may be an issue attaching to the coil is the 430 volts the MSD is sending to the coil and that being an issue! Kinda thinking the coil connection is a bad idea with this CDI (or any CDI). Thank you....... -
Moses, I have an '87 Wrangler YJ that I'm looking to refurbish. I would like to replace the Carter BBD carbureted system. I have two questions: I have seen your articles on the Mopar MPI Conversion Kit and the MSD Atomic EFI kit. I'm leaning towards the Mopar kit but would like to see if you can provide a compare/contrast. My YJ will be much more of a Daily Driver with modest off road use. I would like to do a Cat Forward replacement at the same time that I upgrade to a new fuel system (I recently did a Muffler Back replacement). Do you suggest upgrading to a header application for performance improvement? If so, is there a header that requires no/minimum customization (i.e. can share bolt pattern with intake manifold and will follow the factory exhaust path configuration)? If you are suggesting a header upgrade, how choosy should I be with the cat selection? Many thanks. -
Going to swap my old 258 w/ 4.0 head for a 99 model 4.0 in my 84 CJ-8. Already have the mpfi setup, just going to use it along with the TF999 trans. Question is will the flexplate and starter both work on the 99 4.0 engine? I've been told that I need the flexplate that fits the engine and to drill it to fit the trans. torque converter. Just need to know which is correct. Thanks -
Hello all. Newby on this forum. I'm dealing with a '89 Wrangler with the 4.2 and an auto trans. The rig has about 165,000 miles and I don't believe there has been any work done to the 4.2. The original BBD stepper carburetor has been replaced with a non-stepper BBD, but all else appears factory. The owner has not been able to get the rig through emissions testing and has asked me to help. I am not overly familiar with the 4.2 and much of the information I have seen seems contradictory, so...Here is where I ask for your help. The base timing will change by merely revving the engine and letting it return to it's normal idle. In one instance the base timing was set at 6*BTDC, vacuum disconnected, and after reconnecting the vacuum and revving the engine the base timing had dropped to 2*ATDC, vacuum disconnected. The base timing has also advanced 8*-10* in a similar test. A static check shows the distributor and vacuum advance assemblies working as they should and the distributor is firmly clamped. The idle speed remains reasonably constant and the carb linkage is resting on the curb idle screw. I have not checked for timing chain wear and suspect this may be part of the problem. I also plan to remove the distributor and check the internals for wear etc. This rig has manifold vacuum to the distributor at all times. I have read where it should have ported vacuum. I have studied vacuum diagrams for this rig and haven't been able to positively identify the vacuum source. Any help or comments would be most appreciated. Thanks in advance. Ford Guy -
Ok, here is my situation. i am new to the the jeep owners world. I have wanted a cj since I was 13 yrs old and I finally got one about 2 months ago. I bought an 85 cj7, it has a 2.5 l 4 cyl with a t4 transmission. I bought it with the expectation of putting in a different motor and trans, however, what I did not count on was how much body work I would end up having to do. The body work has taken a huge chunk out of my budget for the motor. A buddy of mine gave me a 4.0 out of his 88 comanche. the engine ran but had been sitting for 7 yrs and all of the seals leaked, including the main seal. My original plan was to use this motor and carburate it since I don't have all of the parts for the fuel injection and I want to keep it as simple under the hood as possible. My question is, would this be possible and could i use the existing motor mounts. Also, what else would I have to do to make this work? Any help on this would be greatly appreciated. Thanks -
Hi, I'm getting a noise from my YJ 3-speed TF999 transmission. It starts when the transmission shifts to 2nd gear, then it comes louder and faster when shifts to 3rd gear. When I release the gas pedal it will be more noticeable as the Engine sound is not at the background. I've removed the tunnel cover plate and recorded this video to see if anyone of you can help me out to identify which will be a possible source of that noise. I'm thinking it can be the planetary gears. There is also another noise that I think it can be coming from the Transmission Oil Pump. Let me know what can be causing that pump to emit that noise if you know. Any comment is wellcome. Thanks. IMG_3531.MOV -
I've mentioned something about a knock noise coming form the rear end on my YJ Sahara Edition in other post, but would be better to have this issue discussed separately from the other topic related to miscellaneous engine parts missing. Finally got the differential carrier out of the axle to inspect every component. Found that one of the pressure washers (not sure if is that how it is called) was cracked, so it wasn't doing any pressure against the clutch pack on the driver side at all. So the rear end was feeling like it was locked all the time, specially in tight turns to the left. I've ordered a complete clutch and gear replacement set and noticed that the gears are different from the ones that I have already installed. It looks like they were for C-Clip shafts but I see no problem if the shaft is non C-Clip type. Anyway, I would like to get some coments for all you that have more experience in this matter. Vendor says that this is an improved kit that will work with C-Clip and bolt on axles. All carrier and pinion bearings replacement ordered as well, replaced side bearings and heading to replace pinion bearings this next weekend. There was a lot of shiny metal particles in the differential fluid. The shaft bearings grease seems to have some as well, the grease looks gray instead of Red, its original color. Regards.
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AMC/Jeep® always leaned forward in both car and utility vehicle designs. By the mid-'80s, the CJ needed a contemporary replacement, a vehicle with wider track for handling and a better highway ride package. The Wrangler emerged just as AMC sold to Chrysler, and the Wrangler and XJ Cherokee were the profit items Mopar wanted! The Wrangler four- and inline six era represents huge growth in the 4WD/SUV market overall, and there are huge numbers of enthusiasts, owners and buyers who can build a "community" at this forum! —Moses Ludel At left is an '87 YJ Wrangler, leaf springs articulating on the rocks! Middle is the Quadra-Coil™-suspension TJ Wrangler Rubicion edition, the engineering and off-road pinnacle of the Wrangler inline four- and six-cylinder era! At right, Moses Ludel's Jeep Owner's Bible, 3rd Edition, covers models through the Wrangler YJ and TJ...
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Good info, thanks. Here's an odd one I have been trying to figure out for years. I bought the Jeep at 57,000 miles ('97 TJ w/ a 2.5L), and now it has about 200,000. So I am assuming now it's worn out and am just going to swap it out. But, this is what it has done for years: First cold start of the day, it is quiet. After about 30 seconds or a minute of warming up, I can hear a valve clatter/tapping noise starting. It did this until the engine was up to temp, then would go away as long as the engine stayed running. If it sat for a while and cooled off, it would do it again until warmed up. This never impacted the engine's performance or drive ability, so I never really worried about it. But, in the last year of driving it, the noise would appear at about 30 seconds or 1 minute of run time, but would stay once the engine warmed up. It would be quieter once warm, but definitely audible. It almost sounds like a diesel. This Jeep has sat now for about a year and a half, but I am going to revive it this winter, as well as do another build on it. Also plan to swap the engine for something else, but will always be curious as to what was making this noise. When I have a chance, I am going to tear the engine down and see if that shows anything. It definitely doesn't sound like a rod knock, and is coming from the upper part of the engine. So I am assuming it is something in the valvetrain.
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In this video discussion, I describe the symptoms of hydraulic clutch linkage leaks in 1987-95 Jeep YJ Wrangler models. Originally part of the Q&A Vlog at the magazine, the viewer's question refers to hard shifting and loss of hydraulic fluid. I share what causes these troubles in this how-to HD video on troubleshooting: Moses
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I am replacing my oil pump (1998 4.0L), would appreciate any help regarding priming the new pump. I'm a little hesitant to pull the distributor, is there an easy way to do this? Thanks Roger -
I have a 95 Wrangler with the 2.5L AX-5 combination. I have the opportunity to replace this combo with the 4.2L AX-15. Other then the engine and transmission swap are there any hidden changes that will have to be made for this swap to work? -
Greetings fellows! Background: Well, I had to let my younger brother drive the YJ last week, and he is a careful driver but really unsure of himself with a standard shift. I had just gotten an epidural shot in my back and they refuse to let a person drive after one of those...He was doing fine until we came to a four way stop at the top of a hill, and the Jeep picked then to stall out. The jerk behind us was right on the bumper and leaning on his horn, so my kid brother got flustered and gunned the gas, peeled out, and I am pretty sure did something to the rear end. (It was shuddering for a mile until I got him to pull over and calm down. He refuses to drive a standard ever again ...so much for buying him a cj2a someday.) Symptoms: In the lower gears, there is a single bark or scrape coming from the rear end when just starting to accelerate. It sounds like bumping a metal table on a ceramic tile floor. I have had a bad U-joint before, and this is not the clicking or chirping that I have heard under those circumstances. I have also noticed a little bit of "give" in acceleration. I am wondering if it is just time to replace my U-joints (visual inspection was tight, but that sound has got me thinking)...or if my poor baby brother banged up the differential or transfer case. Thanks for looking! Sincerely, Pete H. P.S. The differential was rebuilt four years ago and has never been taken off-road (other than the cow pasture) since. New ring, pinion, yoke, bearings, shims, etc. -
At the magazine, building a Jeep inline 4.0L six with a 4.2L crankshaft (stroker motor) is very popular. Tony Hewes (Hewes Performance, Reno, Nevada) and I did a series of HD videos and shared our favorite components for a 4.6L (0.030" overbore with the 4.2L crankshaft) stroker motor build for combined street and trail use. Since then, we have received a lot of feedback and continue to address the tuning and camshaft requirements of these engines. From our testing, the pre-coil pack (1998 TJ and older 4.0L) engines with older style injectors do very well with Ford 5.0L V-8 24-pound injectors—no emission quirks, "Engine Check" lights or other issues when tuned correctly. Ford part number F1TE-D5A or Bosch number 280 150 947 is the specific injector type. These engines work well with the 252H CompCams grind camshaft and 8.7:1 compression. Later, 1999-up TJ Wrangler and 2000-2001 Cherokee engines with coil-pack ignition have square injector connector plugs. For these engines, stroker builders use the Dodge Ram 5.9L V-8 injectors listed for 2000-up with coil pack. This is the injector that HESCO calls a "24-pound/hour”. HESCO supplies rebuilt GB injectors, although new Mopar OEM part numbers are available. This injector also crosses over to the aftermarket Bosch Fuel Injector #62005 offered at Summit Racing for a significant price per injector. Here is the GB website: http://www.gbreman.com/index.html. The 5.9L Ram truck V-8 application is the GB812-12132 injectors for engines to 2003. I researched further and came up with the OEM 5.9L Mopar V-8 injector part number: 53031740AA. (I used 2001 as a clear year for coil-pack and square injector plug.) This OEM Mopar injector is 23.61 pound/hour rated at 43.5 PSI. This is a "high impedance" injector design with a square plug socket. The OEM injector on a coil-pack engine rates 22.5 pounds/hour at 49.0 PSI fuel pressure, which may work okay on a coil pack stroker engine unless the cylinder head, compression or camshaft/head combination is an issue for the PCM. Fuel rail pressure of 49.2 +/- 2 PSI should be confirmed by factory testing method. Fuel Rail Pressure Test.pdf This PDF is instructional for running fuel rail pressure tests on Jeep MPI. This is the 1997-up XJ Cherokee and TJ Wrangler type with fuel tank mounted pressure regulator and single-rail injection. In the late '90s, my engineer friends, Jeep performance enthusiasts at Mopar, were talking about 5.9L Mopar V-8 injectors for 4.0L/4.6L stroker engine builds. This has apparently been a route to go, with a 24-pound/hour injector rating. I researched the Jeep ZJ Grand Cherokee 5.2L/5.9L V-8 injectors from the mid-‘90s: 1995 Jeep 5.2 ZJ/Dodge 5.9L V-8 injectors are Part #53030262 and rated to flow 24.6-pound/hour at 39 PSI. By 1996, the Jeep V-8 injectors rated 23.2 pounds at 49 PSI. The 1995 Mopar injectors (24.6#/hour @ 39 PSI) could be an alternative to the 302 Ford injectors for a stroker build in a 1991-95 Jeep 4.0L MPI chassis application if the engine demands that kind of flow. Summing it up, if GB is accurate, using the right injector cores and parts for this application, HESCO is marketing a “24-pound/hour @ 43.5 PSI injector for a stroker inline six. A caution here is that the '97-up Jeep TJ Wrangler and XJ Cherokee have a 49.2 +/- 5 PSI rail pressure. Flow could be higher than 24 pounds/hour at this 49.2 +/- 5 PSI rail pressure. If the GB812-12132 injector is okay for a coil pack later engine with the later cylinder head casting, the GB812-12132 square plug injector would be the choice for later coil-pack engines. There are a number of sources for these GB injectors. We're still testing the CompCams 252H camshaft in a later 4.0L (1999-up TJ Wrangler/2000-up XJ Cherokee) engine with the redesigned head and coil pack ignition. Tony and I will update on these late 4.0L/stroker engines. The pre-'99 stroker engines and stock PCMs have worked well with this camshaft grind. We're consulting with CompCams about a possible new grind for later coil-pack ignition stroker engines. The 1997-up TJ Wrangler and Cherokees with the tank-mounted fuel regulator use higher fuel pump/line pressure. I would stick with Mopar 53030262 or Ford 302 V-8 type injectors* on the 1997-98 TJ Wranglers and Cherokees through 1999 (without the coil pack system). *Footnote: 24-pound 302 5.0L V-8 injectors fit the pre-coil pack engines; coil pack engine injectors have a square plug connector. Below are some useful links and comments at the magazine site: http://www.4wdmechanix.com/Jeep-Fuel-Pressure-Requirements.html [i detail pressure ratings and designs for Jeep engines equipped with MPI/EFI. 1997-up single rail systems with tank-mounted pressure regulator are higher pressure, running rail/injector pressures typically around 49.2 PSI +/- 2 PSI. This includes the coil pack engines with square wire plug injectors.] http://www.4wdmechanix.com/YJ-&-TJ-Jeep-Stroker-Six-Upgrade.html http://www.4wdmechanix.com/Jeep-TBI-&-MPI-Advanced-Troubleshooting.html [Overview of OEM tuning methods and factory diagnostic tools required.] http://www.4wdmechanix.com/Vlog-Why-Build-a-Jeep-4.6L-Stroker-Inline-Six.html [Video vlog comments.] http://www.4wdmechanix.com/How-to-Tuning-the-Fuel-Injected-Jeep-Inline-Six-Stroker-Motor.html http://users.erols.com/srweiss/tableifc.htm [A useful third-party website for every popular OEM fuel injector’s flow ratings.] http://www.4wdmechanix.com/Vlog-Road-Testing-Jeep-4.6L-Stroker-Inline-Six.html [My video comments on Brent H.’s Cherokee 4.6L build and its drivability. This is a video vlog plus a list of key components used in this Hewes Performance buildup for a 1998 Jeep XJ Cherokee chassis.] Of course, there’s also the entire 4.6L Tony Hewes interview series of HD videos, six individual videos covering the build of a stroker inline six-cylinder Jeep engine! Moses
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Well, it seems this vehicle of mine likes to missbehave in spurts...No sooner were the intake and springs taken care of, now I better figure out something it has been doing for a little while now. Here goes: I put a '77 dodge truck BBD on the Jeep to replace a faulty Weber 32/36 (it was having secondary issues and was also the victim of some shop mischief). It is a manual choke, and takes just a moment to get it started in the morning. It idles like a champ, but the problem comes up that until it warms up, performance is terrible. When I press down on the accelerator, it acts as though the accelerator pump is not keeping up, or the intermediate circuit is fouIed. Even revving up from a stop sign might not keep it from stalling out in the middle of the instersection (I have also found that shifting from second to third, I had to shift back again, because the engine would sputter and start to die on a straightaway...). I already fixed the pump linkage once (it was not the best rebuild in my opinion) and the intermediate circuit looks clear. Once it warms up, there seems to be far less of a problem to it. I have had it do the accelerator stumble when warm, though. I am scratching my head here, as I love the Super Six BBD that I have, it is a reliable carburetor when it is built to spec... Also am wondering if it is a problem I am overlooking, like timing advance. She is set at 9 deg. BTDC (Although I have reason to believe that the timing chain is stretched...I recently had to reset the timing back down from 19BTDC) and have already done a nutter bypass on the engine and have an older style distributor on hand (to make up for the advance issues). Thanks again for any help. Sincerely, Pete H.
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Since I am doing some work on my front leaf spring suspension, I shall probably be going from four leaf to six leaf like I have in the back. The sway bar links are shot as well, and I have heard that if I go to the stiff six leaf all around, I might not need the sway bar up front. I would like to keep the vehicle as stable as possible, as there are some nasty curves that are not banked very well in the area. Should I just keep it as stock as possible? Any input would be greatly appreciated...Pete H.
