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Found 14 results

  1. Moses, I have an '87 Wrangler YJ that I'm looking to refurbish. I would like to replace the Carter BBD carbureted system. I have two questions: I have seen your articles on the Mopar MPI Conversion Kit and the MSD Atomic EFI kit. I'm leaning towards the Mopar kit but would like to see if you can provide a compare/contrast. My YJ will be much more of a Daily Driver with modest off road use. I would like to do a Cat Forward replacement at the same time that I upgrade to a new fuel system (I recently did a Muffler Back replacement). Do you suggest upgrading to a header appli
  2. Going to swap my old 258 w/ 4.0 head for a 99 model 4.0 in my 84 CJ-8. Already have the mpfi setup, just going to use it along with the TF999 trans. Question is will the flexplate and starter both work on the 99 4.0 engine? I've been told that I need the flexplate that fits the engine and to drill it to fit the trans. torque converter. Just need to know which is correct. Thanks
  3. Hello all. Newby on this forum. I'm dealing with a '89 Wrangler with the 4.2 and an auto trans. The rig has about 165,000 miles and I don't believe there has been any work done to the 4.2. The original BBD stepper carburetor has been replaced with a non-stepper BBD, but all else appears factory. The owner has not been able to get the rig through emissions testing and has asked me to help. I am not overly familiar with the 4.2 and much of the information I have seen seems contradictory, so...Here is where I ask for your help. The base timing will change by merely revving the engi
  4. Ok, here is my situation. i am new to the the jeep owners world. I have wanted a cj since I was 13 yrs old and I finally got one about 2 months ago. I bought an 85 cj7, it has a 2.5 l 4 cyl with a t4 transmission. I bought it with the expectation of putting in a different motor and trans, however, what I did not count on was how much body work I would end up having to do. The body work has taken a huge chunk out of my budget for the motor. A buddy of mine gave me a 4.0 out of his 88 comanche. the engine ran but had been sitting for 7 yrs and all of the seals leaked, including the main
  5. Hi, I'm getting a noise from my YJ 3-speed TF999 transmission. It starts when the transmission shifts to 2nd gear, then it comes louder and faster when shifts to 3rd gear. When I release the gas pedal it will be more noticeable as the Engine sound is not at the background. I've removed the tunnel cover plate and recorded this video to see if anyone of you can help me out to identify which will be a possible source of that noise. I'm thinking it can be the planetary gears. There is also another noise that I think it can be coming from the Transmission Oil Pump. Let me know what can be caus
  6. I've mentioned something about a knock noise coming form the rear end on my YJ Sahara Edition in other post, but would be better to have this issue discussed separately from the other topic related to miscellaneous engine parts missing. Finally got the differential carrier out of the axle to inspect every component. Found that one of the pressure washers (not sure if is that how it is called) was cracked, so it wasn't doing any pressure against the clutch pack on the driver side at all. So the rear end was feeling like it was locked all the time, specially in tight turns to the left. I
  7. AMC/Jeep® always leaned forward in both car and utility vehicle designs. By the mid-'80s, the CJ needed a contemporary replacement, a vehicle with wider track for handling and a better highway ride package. The Wrangler emerged just as AMC sold to Chrysler, and the Wrangler and XJ Cherokee were the profit items Mopar wanted! The Wrangler four- and inline six era represents huge growth in the 4WD/SUV market overall, and there are huge numbers of enthusiasts, owners and buyers who can build a "community" at this forum! —Moses Ludel At left is an '87 YJ Wrangler, leaf springs articulating
  8. In this video discussion, I describe the symptoms of hydraulic clutch linkage leaks in 1987-95 Jeep YJ Wrangler models. Originally part of the Q&A Vlog at the magazine, the viewer's question refers to hard shifting and loss of hydraulic fluid. I share what causes these troubles in this how-to HD video on troubleshooting: Moses
  9. I am replacing my oil pump (1998 4.0L), would appreciate any help regarding priming the new pump. I'm a little hesitant to pull the distributor, is there an easy way to do this? Thanks Roger
  10. I have a 95 Wrangler with the 2.5L AX-5 combination. I have the opportunity to replace this combo with the 4.2L AX-15. Other then the engine and transmission swap are there any hidden changes that will have to be made for this swap to work?
  11. Greetings fellows! Background: Well, I had to let my younger brother drive the YJ last week, and he is a careful driver but really unsure of himself with a standard shift. I had just gotten an epidural shot in my back and they refuse to let a person drive after one of those...He was doing fine until we came to a four way stop at the top of a hill, and the Jeep picked then to stall out. The jerk behind us was right on the bumper and leaning on his horn, so my kid brother got flustered and gunned the gas, peeled out, and I am pretty sure did something to the rear end. (It was shuddering for
  12. At the magazine, building a Jeep inline 4.0L six with a 4.2L crankshaft (stroker motor) is very popular. Tony Hewes (Hewes Performance, Reno, Nevada) and I did a series of HD videos and shared our favorite components for a 4.6L (0.030" overbore with the 4.2L crankshaft) stroker motor build for combined street and trail use. Since then, we have received a lot of feedback and continue to address the tuning and camshaft requirements of these engines. From our testing, the pre-coil pack (1998 TJ and older 4.0L) engines with older style injectors do very well with Ford 5.0L V-8 24-pound injec
  13. Well, it seems this vehicle of mine likes to missbehave in spurts...No sooner were the intake and springs taken care of, now I better figure out something it has been doing for a little while now. Here goes: I put a '77 dodge truck BBD on the Jeep to replace a faulty Weber 32/36 (it was having secondary issues and was also the victim of some shop mischief). It is a manual choke, and takes just a moment to get it started in the morning. It idles like a champ, but the problem comes up that until it warms up, performance is terrible. When I press down on the accelerator, it acts as though the
  14. Since I am doing some work on my front leaf spring suspension, I shall probably be going from four leaf to six leaf like I have in the back. The sway bar links are shot as well, and I have heard that if I go to the stiff six leaf all around, I might not need the sway bar up front. I would like to keep the vehicle as stable as possible, as there are some nasty curves that are not banked very well in the area. Should I just keep it as stock as possible? Any input would be greatly appreciated...Pete H.
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