.jpg.e9616ecae52cc756648b2117238f1bef.jpg){kind=logo}
Search the Community
Showing results for tags 'tj wrangler'.
Found 7 results
-
There is some play in steering wheel (precisely in steering gear box) and I have power steering. Its saginaw unit, and I've found that it has some adjusting screw on top of it and that by adjusting that screw I can reduce play. On the other hand, I've read that this should be done only after rebuilding complete unit and that adjusting it without rebuild could make elements inside bind and damage the unit. Can it be done or I need to rebuild it first? It has some 180.000 miles on it and no visible leaks on it nor on ps pump. -
I bought this 1997 TJ with 168 thousand miles on it. The trans was slipping pretty badly probably cause it has never been serviced. I can imagine the cost of doing that cause of having to pull the shield. Well I pulled the shield and took down the pan. inside was like mud with friction material on the bottom. I changed the filter and put a bigger pan that hold 2 more qts of fluid and changed the fluid a couple of more times not doing a complete flush. I also adjusted the bands to specs. Now when I start off theres a very short stretch then it shifts to the next gear. I think I have a problem from 1st to second because when it finally shifts to second it goes to third with no problem. Ive been soft shoeing it for 9,000 miles now and have put 7,000 mi since the last oil and filter change. My question is, what band adjustment should I be concentrating on, the one in the pan or the one by the bell housing? Im saving my money to get the trans rebuilt because I want to drive without having my mind on this all the time. Should I try another filter and oil and adjustment before I drop 1800$ on a rebuild? The Jeep is def worth it. No body or chassis rot and it runs great. any input on what I should do would be appreciated.. -
I am working on a 2002 Wrangler 4.0 automatic. I found this connected grounded to the left side of the block. I have no idea what it is or what it does. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks so much, Jake -
I bought this 1997 TJ a couple of months ago with 168 thou on it and am trying to get it up to snuff. Needed a fuel pump { hard to start } now it starts great. So I figured lets do a trans service. I dropped the pan and just what I suspected it hasn't been serviced in a Looooonnnng time. It had some friction material in pan,the oil was like mud and the magnet looked like a hairy spider.It also slipped from second to third pretty bad. I put a new filter and a deep sump pan that holds two more qts of fluid. I also adjusted the bands. Shifted pretty good but with a slight slip from 2-3rd. I changed the oil 3 more times, pretty expensive and now its red all the time but a rebuild is in the back of my mind. Im going in again and change the filter and re adjust the bands. I saw a video about changing the accumulator spring. the teck made it look easy just drop the plate and change the spring to help any shifting problems. Say it should be part of tranny maint. Has anyone had any experience doing this and what the result was?? Im really trying to keep this trans alive before I drop 1800 for a complete rebuild. I think the jeep is worth it.. No rust at all on frame or the body. im the third owner and the first two knew each other and the jeep was garage kept all its life...The frame and bod are in awesome shape..Any input on this spring thing would help. I would like to change it while I have the pan down if I can..thx..bigwheel53
-
I have attached a few pictures of this transmission I have but I don't know where its from I need help identifying this transmission the only thing I can identify here is the transfer case because it has the sticker in the back its an NP "new process" 249 J This is a manual 4wd transmission I believe its an ax15 transmission but please give me your input as i'm not sure any help is appreciated one more thing from the shape of the bell housing I don't think this came of a Jeep possibly AMC or other but thanks again -
I am currently in the process of fitting a ford 8.8 with the necessary brackets to fit under the rear of my 01 Jeep TJ. In the interest of keeping cost down, I have decided to simply regear my front dana 30 to match. But before I run out and buy parts, I have a few questions. 1st, is that my rear 8.8 is a 4:10 ratio, and most sets I see for the 30 are 4:10 as well. I have been told that I have to offset my front to a 4:11 for some reason, but no one can explain why. all I've heard so far is that a 1% offset in ratio is "ok". is a matched ratio ok as well? if not, what do I do about this? 2nd, I believe that my current gearing in the D30 is 3:07. it is my understanding that I will have to swap to a different carrier to accommodate the 4:10 gearing. I have found carriers for roughly $100, but they are bare. What do I need in addition to the carrier and R&P in order to install into my housing? -
Have to get your knowledge as I am puzzled. I asked a local 4X4 shop a question -- "If I wanted to flat (dingy) tow my 2003 5-speed Rubicon, what is the correct procedure to do so?" I was advised that I cannot flat tow my 2003 Rubicon as the "gearbox does not have a true neutral position". Is that true or not? I thought that Rubicon can be flat towed. Isn't it a dead on true neutral wherein you put the gearbox in Neutral and its fully disengaged? Joe Mac