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  1. I recently got a 1989 Jeep YJ that sometime in the past, had the Mopar 1994 FI conversion installed on the engine. While the Jeep came with a lot of documentation about the other work done on it, there was only one page concerning the FI conversion. The problem that I am running into is this: If the alternator is hooked up correctly, the engine won't turn off by using the key. If the alternator is not hooked up correctly (meaning that it's not charging) the key shuts off the engine. I thought that it might of been a bad ignition switch, but after changing out the ignition switch, the problem is still there. I have gone through the wiring, removing the old and abandoned wiring, also with no luck. I am wondering if someone knows where I can get the installation instructions and the wiring diagram for the 1994 FI conversion? I'd like more information on the FI conversion and also follow out some wiring to make sure someone didn't install a wire in the wrong place.
  2. I recently got a 1989 Jeep YJ that sometime in the past, had the Mopar 1994 FI conversion installed on the engine. While the Jeep came with a lot of documentation about the other work done on it, there was only one page concerning the FI conversion. The problem that I am running into is this: If the alternator is hooked up correctly, the engine won't turn off by using the key. If the alternator is not hooked up correctly (meaning that it's not charging) the key shuts off the engine. I thought that it might of been a bad ignition switch, but after changing out the ignition switch, the problem is still there. I have gone through the wiring, removing the old and abandoned wiring, also with no luck. I am wondering if someone knows where I can get the installation instructions and the wiring diagram for the 1994 FI conversion? I'd like more information on the FI conversion and also follow out some wiring to make sure someone didn't install a wire in the wrong place.
  3. Since the early 'sixties era of closed crankcase devices and the later carbureted engine emission controls era, owners have wondered whether to restore or eliminate devices. Aside from the legality issues, there are times when these devices have either little negative effect or may even provide some benefits. For those unaware, my answer to a Jeep CJ-7 owner's emissions modifications may help. I'd also add that Jeep pioneered the closed crankcase on the MB WWII model, and this equivalent to a PCV system eliminated the common road draft tube. An open road draft tube would have swamped these 134 L-head crankcases during stream crossings and beach landings. Often, emissions devices are neither bad nor detrimental to performance. In fact, they can even have positive effects as noted in my comments above... Moses
  4. Dear Moses First of all , a lot of compliments for your forum , where i found many useful info I am a recent italian owner of a wrangler YJ 2.5 TBI . The car has 185000 miles and run pretty fine , except for a irregular ride at low stable throttle opening : i.e. mantaining the engine stationary at 1500 or 2000 rpm (in 1st or 2th gear ) the car jerks and hiccups ; if accelerating and in wide open condition the engine response and power became ok. This happens in both cold or warm engine . The jeep is equipped with an alternative fueling system by Liquefied Petroleum Gas ( rather common in italy for saving reasons) , switching to LPG fuel the car run perfectly on all throttle conditions , and considering that LPG require a perfect ignition system , i exclude any spark system issue. The jeep is without O2 sensor and catalystic converter ( as far as i know this is a standard for '90 export in italy ) A list of checks done: - vacuum hoses \ PVC \ air intake sys \ EGR & canister solenoid \ wide open throttle switch - at idle or full open throttle all is ok , so i exclude fuel line , pump or filter issues . - injector spray patters seems good - no leakage or unrestrictions appears at exhaust or intake manifolds Can You kindly suggest where focus troubleshooting and address additional tests ? ( may be fuel pressure or TPS sensor ??? ) thanks in advance luca
  5. Members and Guests...We've had some great discussion on rebuilding the popular Aisin AX15 transmission, and my 'how-to' rebuild rental at Vimeo On Demand (http://www.vimeo.com/ondemand/ax15rebuild) has received solid feedback as a resource for shops and DIY level techs! I'm pleased to see many are able to successfully rebuild and thoroughly restore the AX15, made popular in 1989-1999 model year Jeep vehicles with the 4.0L engine. The AX15 transmission rebuild coverage and our discussion here at these forums also serve other applications of the AX15, including the Dodge Dakota, some Toyota truck models (and performance car applications) plus Isuzu and GM use. There are, however, instances when a transmission is simply not rebuildable. You do the teardown, follow my inspection guidelines or a factory shop manual, and discover that the wear exceeds any reasonable parts replacement costs...In these cases, we do have an outlet and sensible alternative: Advance Adapters and a new AX15 transmission! Note: Many owners have discovered that a "good used" transmission is an oxymoron for an off-road 4x4 vehicle that gets oversized tires and a lot of shifting either off-pavement or in city traffic. I'm not an advocate of buying "good used" unless you know the history of the donor vehicle. Any 1989-99 Jeep 4x4 transmission has seen more than enough use and is a candidate for my "blueprint rebuild" or a complete replacement. "Good used" can simply translate to "definitely used"! In the day, a BW T-18 or T-98, a GM SM420 or SM465, a New Process NP435 or other commercial grade, iron case "truck" transmissions (or the more contemporary NV4500 or NV5600) were often still in serviceable condition after the vehicle expired. That will not be the case with a used, higher mileage AX15 transmission, it will not provide long or reliable service as a high mileage used purchase. Optimistically, such a "core" might be rebuildable. I have worked closely with Advance Adapters' full line of transmission to transfer case adapters, Atlas transfer cases and other products for decades now. (We can thank Advance Adapters for its support at the magazine and these forums, too!) For many owners, the fatigue and normal wear of a powertrain provides the incentive for unique and popular upgrading of a 4x4 powertrain. In that arena, the Aisin AX15 has become the contemporary transmission of choice for stock 4.0L restorations and even swaps of moderate horsepower V-8 power into a Jeep 4x4 chassis. For horsepower to the 275-300 range (like an LS3 or a 4.6L Jeep inline six stroker) plus a useful overdrive gear, I consider a freshly and properly rebuilt AX15 as a prime candidate for a street/trail "build". These swaps or buildups do require either a rebuilt or new Aisin AX15. This contemporary transmission has also become the replacement for the later, expensive to rebuild 6-speed Jeep TJ Wrangler transmissions. Yes, a brand new AX15 transmission, ready for bolt-in replacement in Jeep and many Dodge Dakota, Toyota and Isuzu applications! These units are close ratio five-speeds (5th overdrive) that can bring new life into a higher mileage vehicle. They also deliver a desirable level of contemporary torque and stamina for moderate horsepower V-8 transplants where an overdrive is desirable. (These units even look great, click on these photos!) The exciting news is that you have the option of buying a new Aisin AX15. These units, available through Advance Adapters (a direct Aisin distributor), provide all of the legendary features and reliability found in new Jeep 4x4s from the Jeep YJ/TJ and XJ Cherokee era (or Dodge Dakota 3.9 V-6 models and other AX15 applications). Advance Adapters has a long reputation for serving the 4WD community, whether sponsoring enthusiast runs at Moab, Utah or supporting the off-road racing community. Advance Adapters maintains this approach with the pricing of these new Aisin AX15 transmissions. So, if your AX15 is either too worn for rebuilding or you're building a contemporary Jeep 4x4 project for the street/trail or off-road use, consider the Advance Adapters AX15 option! For more details, visit the Advance Adapters website at: http://www.AdvanceAdapters.com! Moses
  6. Hi, I'm getting a noise from my YJ 3-speed TF999 transmission. It starts when the transmission shifts to 2nd gear, then it comes louder and faster when shifts to 3rd gear. When I release the gas pedal it will be more noticeable as the Engine sound is not at the background. I've removed the tunnel cover plate and recorded this video to see if anyone of you can help me out to identify which will be a possible source of that noise. I'm thinking it can be the planetary gears. There is also another noise that I think it can be coming from the Transmission Oil Pump. Let me know what can be causing that pump to emit that noise if you know. Any comment is wellcome. Thanks. IMG_3531.MOV
  7. Hi all, I've got this issue for about a year. Transmission will not upshift from 2nd to 3rd when it's cold.It will when engine rpms are above at least 2200 - 2500. After 3 or 4 upshifts it will eventually behave as it should. I've replaced filter and flushed it. New 8 liters of ATF are in it and still there were no results. Then, I've tried adjusting TV cable. Results are following - It will shift from 1st to 2nd at light throttle when rpms are in between 1500-1900. 2nd to 3rd shift is also in between 1500-1900 rpm. But new problem appears now, also when transmission is cold. When it upshifts into 3rd, if I easily press throttle pedal it slips. Like it's shifted into neutral, and suddenly at 1900-2000 rpms it shifts into 2nd (i think). If i let off throttle pedal it will again upshift into 3rd and same story again. This happens ONLY when transmission is cold. If I readjust TV cable again the shift point for 3rd is again high ( about 2200rpms). Is this TV cable related or there is something wrong inside valve body? There is also one thing I've noticed, I'm not sure if it is normal. When driving some 40mph in 2nd, seems like it first locks-up in 2nd ( about 150 rpms drop) and then upshifts into 3rd. If i drive in 3rd and press throttle a bit harder, it downshifts into 2nd but TC is still locked. Only when I fully press throttle it will downshift into 2nd and unlock. Even when I go uphill it stays locked until I give it a lot more throttle. Is this normal and shouldn't lock-up occur only when in 3rd?
  8. I have a 95 YJ 4 litre let's running extra rich. It will foul out the spark plugs with carbon fouling within a few minutes. Let me start at the beginning, I bought this Jeep running terrible. I was told it had a dead battery while jump starting they hooked up the cables backwards. I thought this was probably true due to the fact that both alternator fuses were blown. I drove it nine miles home and went through over 4 gallons of gas. Most of that ran out the tailpipe or was dumped into the crankcase. The number 5 and 6 injectors we're running fuel anytime the key was in the run position. I diagnose that problem to a burnt PCM. The PCM was sent out to a repair facility and upon return was installed and no start. the light on the dashboard would not even light up. I was told by the repair facility that that was their fault send it back and I would get a replacement. Upon installing the replacement PCM, the engine would start but still running very rich. The injectors no longer run when they're not supposed to. I started doing test procedures according to the Chrysler service manual. Cylinder leak down test shows all cylinders between 12 and 10% leakage. All cylinders 125 to 130 psi compression. Cam position sensor checks out ok crank sensor okay distributor cap rotor wires and plugs all new. timing ok per the book. ignition coil showed a low ohm reading on the primary side so I replaced it. spark is OK MAP sensor is OK idle air control solenoid was sticky so I replaced. Sprayed carburetor cleaner all around intake and didn't show any vacuum leaks. Manifold vacuum on my gauge reads low. About 5 inches at idle and up to 12 to 15 inches when rev up. Pulled the o2 sensor and plugged in a pressure gauge to do back pressure. Shows 1 pound pressure. Doesn't go up when engine revved so catalytic converter doesn't seem to be clogged. Running rich enough that in the three weeks I have been trying to figure this out, the new spark plugs were fouled enough to make hard starting. Since then I have installed fresh spark plugs. It will start and run but terribly rich. It acts like its not timed right, but all that is controlled through the PCM. Every check I do seems to point to the PCM still not being right. I am now one step away from doing the 5 gallons of gas and a match procedure. What in the heck am I missing?
  9. I've mentioned something about a knock noise coming form the rear end on my YJ Sahara Edition in other post, but would be better to have this issue discussed separately from the other topic related to miscellaneous engine parts missing. Finally got the differential carrier out of the axle to inspect every component. Found that one of the pressure washers (not sure if is that how it is called) was cracked, so it wasn't doing any pressure against the clutch pack on the driver side at all. So the rear end was feeling like it was locked all the time, specially in tight turns to the left. I've ordered a complete clutch and gear replacement set and noticed that the gears are different from the ones that I have already installed. It looks like they were for C-Clip shafts but I see no problem if the shaft is non C-Clip type. Anyway, I would like to get some coments for all you that have more experience in this matter. Vendor says that this is an improved kit that will work with C-Clip and bolt on axles. All carrier and pinion bearings replacement ordered as well, replaced side bearings and heading to replace pinion bearings this next weekend. There was a lot of shiny metal particles in the differential fluid. The shaft bearings grease seems to have some as well, the grease looks gray instead of Red, its original color. Regards.
  10. I have a 89 wrangler 2.5L I just replaced the fuel pump thinking it was bad put the new in same problem wouldn't kick on hooked it the battery kicked on tryed to crank it nothing pull inlet off the throttle body getting fuel there but not coming out the injector touched injectors to battery it's worked any ideas what could be cause this any help will be helpful bcause I don't know much about TBI.
  11. AMC/Jeep® always leaned forward in both car and utility vehicle designs. By the mid-'80s, the CJ needed a contemporary replacement, a vehicle with wider track for handling and a better highway ride package. The Wrangler emerged just as AMC sold to Chrysler, and the Wrangler and XJ Cherokee were the profit items Mopar wanted! The Wrangler four- and inline six era represents huge growth in the 4WD/SUV market overall, and there are huge numbers of enthusiasts, owners and buyers who can build a "community" at this forum! —Moses Ludel At left is an '87 YJ Wrangler, leaf springs articulating on the rocks! Middle is the Quadra-Coil™-suspension TJ Wrangler Rubicion edition, the engineering and off-road pinnacle of the Wrangler inline four- and six-cylinder era! At right, Moses Ludel's Jeep Owner's Bible, 3rd Edition, covers models through the Wrangler YJ and TJ...
  12. I understand that many people get "noticeable" power gain by tuning the ignition timing on the Jeep 2.5L TBI four-cylinder engine. Some relocate the IAT in a cold place (cheap but small power gain) and others drilled a new position for the CPS to get 3-4 degrees variation. CPS relocation mod made me realize that timing can be tweaked by editing the signal going from cps to ignition module. I'm not into drilling the engine, so I called the italian AEB to get a controller (to be installed on the CPS line going to the ignition module) to adjust timing and they answered that is definitely doable, but they need a oscilloscope report of the CPS signal to give me a module that fits. I'll let you know if I get any further in this direction. In the meantime, do you know of any kit/ecu/module/processor designed for this purpose? Googling "adjust timing on yj" mostly returns a useless "you can't adjust timing by turning the distributor". Happy New Year! Claudio
  13. In this video discussion, I describe the symptoms of hydraulic clutch linkage leaks in 1987-95 Jeep YJ Wrangler models. Originally part of the Q&A Vlog at the magazine, the viewer's question refers to hard shifting and loss of hydraulic fluid. I share what causes these troubles in this how-to HD video on troubleshooting: Moses
  14. Aisin AX15 manual 5-speed transmissions are popular and found in 1989-99 Jeep vehicles, Dodge Dakota pickups and some GM/Isuzu and Toyota light trucks. Highly detailed, this close up step-by-step instructional HD video rental is available only at vimeo.com/ondemand/ax15rebuild. Included is the information necessary for performing a complete restoration and professional level rebuild of the AX15 transmission. The AX15 transmission rebuilding process involves complex disassembly and assembly sequences. This is a precision gearbox, and every teardown and assembly step is equally important. Knowing which new parts your transmission requires is also valuable. This HD video rental includes two sections. Part 1 is teardown and inspection to establish your needed parts list. Part 2 is the assembly work. Both Part 1 and Part 2 are included in this 94-minute instructional HD video! Whether you have a shop specializing in light truck and 4x4 work or have a one-time 'DIY' project for your personal Jeep, light truck or SUV, this 30-day HD video rental can save you considerable time and money. For the cost of an AX15 shift cover boot, the rental will pay for itself many times over! The magazine's most popular technical articles and how-to videos have been reformatted and painstakingly edited as Vimeo On Demand productions. The latest feature is this in depth instructional how-to covering the rebuild of the popular Aisin AX15 transmission. Access the 94-minute Vimeo On Demand feature at: http://www.vimeo.com/ondemand/ax15rebuild
  15. Moses, I recently lifted my 95 YJ three inches, I was told by several people that the track bar is not needed on the front or rear. I was also told by several people that it is. I turn to you and your wisdom for the right answer. The sway bars I plan on installing a quick disconnect for off road use. Thank You for your time Sincerely, Dave
  16. a huge problem with my YJ brings me to this forum, so I'm a new member. I own a 1989 Wrangler YJ 2.5L 5-speed. It's a '94 block, with the '89 accessories/head/etc. I drove my Jeep to work one day a couple weeks ago. No issues. Went to leave to grab some lunch at a local restaurant and it started idling not well in about 20 seconds after starting it up. Tried to just drive it anyways, and the power would completely cut out as if I were idling, even though I had it almost floored. The RPMs would go from ~2500 down to ~1000 where it would stay until I got off the gas, when it would die. I started it up a couple times, but it would repeat the process. Luckily I was able to do a U-turn and coast into my work's parking lot. tried to drive it home afterwards and it would do the same thing, over and over. It seemed to run well off of the gas I used to start the Jeep with, bringing itself up to ~3000rpms, and I would be able to quickly get it in gear and drive it. but after that gas was used up, it wouldnt want to run anymore and would die. Luckily there were no cars on the road and I was able to make it about a mile to my grandfather's house, where the Jeep sits now, unable to even idle well. My Jeep will start fine after it's been sitting awhile, go up to 2k rpms as usual, but will quickly fall to around 600rpms and try to die. if I give it gas, it doesnt like it and ends up flooding itself out rather than gain rpms. It won't start again after that unless the gas pedal is to the floor, because it's flooding itself out. While it's doing this, it produces white smoke and condensation that leads to black all on the cement under the tailpipe. Now for what I've tried to do about it. I've done alot, so I'll try to be as thorough but organized as possible. I dropped the gas tank, dried it COMPLETELY out, because I had water in the tank before this. New spark plugs, a full tank of new gas, a new fuel filter, and jumping the fuel pump relay to flush the throttle body. No difference. I got a new injector a few days before this started, because the old one was seemingly clogged. When the throttle body bonnet is pulled off, I can hear a sort of hissing sound coming from the injector. I tried getting the old one cleaned out and trying it, but it's the same as the new one, so the problem probably doesnt lie there. However, along with the hissing, the spraying seems to mess up when it happens. However, it's flooding so I'm not sure if that is a cause or a symptom. The fuel pressure was good, the return line I blew into with my lips and heard it bubble in the tank, so it's not blocked. Tested for vacuum...5in HG if I'm lucky. The other day before I put the new injector in, it was bouncing from I think 10in HG back down to 0in HG rapidly. Now it just goes beween ~0-3. Pulled the Throttle Body off, the gasket was good and it's clean. The fuel pressure regulator is seemingly fine. the IAC is acting normally and isnt very old. The CTS is within it's range at ~70F (~3400Ohms). The MAT sensor is a little off, but I have the '91-'95 sensor, so I have to look at the ranges on that. SHouldnt affect my Jeep that massivley anyways if it's only a little off. The TPS is good and within range. The WOT sensor is working. New MAP sensor as well. Checked all my vacuum lines and they are all good and routed correctly. I plugged the brake booster, no change. Plugged the EGR/Charcoal cannister/Purge solenoid vac line @ the purge solenoid, no change. I was worried about the head, and did a compression test, passed perfectly. All of them within 120-130. the timing test also passed great. I pulled the ECU out and there are no indications of heat or corrosion. I'm not sure what else to do. I checked around the intake manifold for a leak in the gasket, but the gasket isnt very old and I didnt see anything. However, I can still do the WD-40 test, spraying around where it bolts up. I havent checked the O2 sensor, but my manual says it doesnt take O2 into consideration until the vehicle is warmed up. I may have a clogged cat because the cat is old, but would that cause effects this major? Another thing is my power steering switch broke off the line and shorted on the exhaust manifold awhile ago that blew the computer, so I got a new one. I cut the switch off, taped up the lines, and it ran great for a few days after that until this started, so I dont think it matters. But I figured I'd include it. I know this was a long post, and I'm sorry, but I'm incredibly frustrated with it, after having all sorts of issues for the past two months. This one I just can't figure out. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
  17. I am replacing my oil pump (1998 4.0L), would appreciate any help regarding priming the new pump. I'm a little hesitant to pull the distributor, is there an easy way to do this? Thanks Roger
  18. Got my first jeep about a month ago, a '93 YJ Wrangler 2.5L 4-cyl, 5-speed manual. Went to drive off, got up to 2nd gear, and the regular manual shifter (not the 4WD transfer case) went loose in my hand. I can still drive it, but only in 2nd gear, where it was when it broke. The manual 5-speed shifter won't go into any gear, just wobbles around freely without engaging. Clutch is fine. I'm hoping it's some sort of shifter linkage bushing that broke, due to the suddenness of the problem, but don't know where to begin looking. Just had my rear brakes and emergency brake cable replaced about a week prior to this happening - don't know if that could be a cause. Any assistance pointing me in the right direction would be appreciated. I'm capable of doing a repair, but don't know my way around Jeeps at all yet. Pics would be a plus! Thanks for your time.
  19. I have a 95 Wrangler with the 2.5L AX-5 combination. I have the opportunity to replace this combo with the 4.2L AX-15. Other then the engine and transmission swap are there any hidden changes that will have to be made for this swap to work?
  20. I am looking at used jeeps and I will be a first time jeep owner. I am interested in CJs or YJs. I want the jeep mostly for hunting and putt-ing around town. As far as engines go, do you think a 4 cyl would be okay for what I want and not get me in trouble in the mountains, or should I just look at the 6 or an 8 cyl? If a 4 would work, what transmission, axle gearing and tire size would you recommend? I have already found the forums to very informative. Thanks. Rich
  21. Greetings fellows! Background: Well, I had to let my younger brother drive the YJ last week, and he is a careful driver but really unsure of himself with a standard shift. I had just gotten an epidural shot in my back and they refuse to let a person drive after one of those...He was doing fine until we came to a four way stop at the top of a hill, and the Jeep picked then to stall out. The jerk behind us was right on the bumper and leaning on his horn, so my kid brother got flustered and gunned the gas, peeled out, and I am pretty sure did something to the rear end. (It was shuddering for a mile until I got him to pull over and calm down. He refuses to drive a standard ever again ...so much for buying him a cj2a someday.) Symptoms: In the lower gears, there is a single bark or scrape coming from the rear end when just starting to accelerate. It sounds like bumping a metal table on a ceramic tile floor. I have had a bad U-joint before, and this is not the clicking or chirping that I have heard under those circumstances. I have also noticed a little bit of "give" in acceleration. I am wondering if it is just time to replace my U-joints (visual inspection was tight, but that sound has got me thinking)...or if my poor baby brother banged up the differential or transfer case. Thanks for looking! Sincerely, Pete H. P.S. The differential was rebuilt four years ago and has never been taken off-road (other than the cow pasture) since. New ring, pinion, yoke, bearings, shims, etc.
  22. At the magazine, building a Jeep inline 4.0L six with a 4.2L crankshaft (stroker motor) is very popular. Tony Hewes (Hewes Performance, Reno, Nevada) and I did a series of HD videos and shared our favorite components for a 4.6L (0.030" overbore with the 4.2L crankshaft) stroker motor build for combined street and trail use. Since then, we have received a lot of feedback and continue to address the tuning and camshaft requirements of these engines. From our testing, the pre-coil pack (1998 TJ and older 4.0L) engines with older style injectors do very well with Ford 5.0L V-8 24-pound injectors—no emission quirks, "Engine Check" lights or other issues when tuned correctly. Ford part number F1TE-D5A or Bosch number 280 150 947 is the specific injector type. These engines work well with the 252H CompCams grind camshaft and 8.7:1 compression. Later, 1999-up TJ Wrangler and 2000-2001 Cherokee engines with coil-pack ignition have square injector connector plugs. For these engines, stroker builders use the Dodge Ram 5.9L V-8 injectors listed for 2000-up with coil pack. This is the injector that HESCO calls a "24-pound/hour”. HESCO supplies rebuilt GB injectors, although new Mopar OEM part numbers are available. This injector also crosses over to the aftermarket Bosch Fuel Injector #62005 offered at Summit Racing for a significant price per injector. Here is the GB website: http://www.gbreman.com/index.html. The 5.9L Ram truck V-8 application is the GB812-12132 injectors for engines to 2003. I researched further and came up with the OEM 5.9L Mopar V-8 injector part number: 53031740AA. (I used 2001 as a clear year for coil-pack and square injector plug.) This OEM Mopar injector is 23.61 pound/hour rated at 43.5 PSI. This is a "high impedance" injector design with a square plug socket. The OEM injector on a coil-pack engine rates 22.5 pounds/hour at 49.0 PSI fuel pressure, which may work okay on a coil pack stroker engine unless the cylinder head, compression or camshaft/head combination is an issue for the PCM. Fuel rail pressure of 49.2 +/- 2 PSI should be confirmed by factory testing method. Fuel Rail Pressure Test.pdf This PDF is instructional for running fuel rail pressure tests on Jeep MPI. This is the 1997-up XJ Cherokee and TJ Wrangler type with fuel tank mounted pressure regulator and single-rail injection. In the late '90s, my engineer friends, Jeep performance enthusiasts at Mopar, were talking about 5.9L Mopar V-8 injectors for 4.0L/4.6L stroker engine builds. This has apparently been a route to go, with a 24-pound/hour injector rating. I researched the Jeep ZJ Grand Cherokee 5.2L/5.9L V-8 injectors from the mid-‘90s: 1995 Jeep 5.2 ZJ/Dodge 5.9L V-8 injectors are Part #53030262 and rated to flow 24.6-pound/hour at 39 PSI. By 1996, the Jeep V-8 injectors rated 23.2 pounds at 49 PSI. The 1995 Mopar injectors (24.6#/hour @ 39 PSI) could be an alternative to the 302 Ford injectors for a stroker build in a 1991-95 Jeep 4.0L MPI chassis application if the engine demands that kind of flow. Summing it up, if GB is accurate, using the right injector cores and parts for this application, HESCO is marketing a “24-pound/hour @ 43.5 PSI injector for a stroker inline six. A caution here is that the '97-up Jeep TJ Wrangler and XJ Cherokee have a 49.2 +/- 5 PSI rail pressure. Flow could be higher than 24 pounds/hour at this 49.2 +/- 5 PSI rail pressure. If the GB812-12132 injector is okay for a coil pack later engine with the later cylinder head casting, the GB812-12132 square plug injector would be the choice for later coil-pack engines. There are a number of sources for these GB injectors. We're still testing the CompCams 252H camshaft in a later 4.0L (1999-up TJ Wrangler/2000-up XJ Cherokee) engine with the redesigned head and coil pack ignition. Tony and I will update on these late 4.0L/stroker engines. The pre-'99 stroker engines and stock PCMs have worked well with this camshaft grind. We're consulting with CompCams about a possible new grind for later coil-pack ignition stroker engines. The 1997-up TJ Wrangler and Cherokees with the tank-mounted fuel regulator use higher fuel pump/line pressure. I would stick with Mopar 53030262 or Ford 302 V-8 type injectors* on the 1997-98 TJ Wranglers and Cherokees through 1999 (without the coil pack system). *Footnote: 24-pound 302 5.0L V-8 injectors fit the pre-coil pack engines; coil pack engine injectors have a square plug connector. Below are some useful links and comments at the magazine site: http://www.4wdmechanix.com/Jeep-Fuel-Pressure-Requirements.html [i detail pressure ratings and designs for Jeep engines equipped with MPI/EFI. 1997-up single rail systems with tank-mounted pressure regulator are higher pressure, running rail/injector pressures typically around 49.2 PSI +/- 2 PSI. This includes the coil pack engines with square wire plug injectors.] http://www.4wdmechanix.com/YJ-&-TJ-Jeep-Stroker-Six-Upgrade.html http://www.4wdmechanix.com/Jeep-TBI-&-MPI-Advanced-Troubleshooting.html [Overview of OEM tuning methods and factory diagnostic tools required.] http://www.4wdmechanix.com/Vlog-Why-Build-a-Jeep-4.6L-Stroker-Inline-Six.html [Video vlog comments.] http://www.4wdmechanix.com/How-to-Tuning-the-Fuel-Injected-Jeep-Inline-Six-Stroker-Motor.html http://users.erols.com/srweiss/tableifc.htm [A useful third-party website for every popular OEM fuel injector’s flow ratings.] http://www.4wdmechanix.com/Vlog-Road-Testing-Jeep-4.6L-Stroker-Inline-Six.html [My video comments on Brent H.’s Cherokee 4.6L build and its drivability. This is a video vlog plus a list of key components used in this Hewes Performance buildup for a 1998 Jeep XJ Cherokee chassis.] Of course, there’s also the entire 4.6L Tony Hewes interview series of HD videos, six individual videos covering the build of a stroker inline six-cylinder Jeep engine! Moses
  23. Another pre-forum, Q&A exchange with Jason Logan (forum member JayDLogan) is useful to those installing a new clutch. Jason has concerns about which type of release bearing to use. The discussion continues here at the forum:: Jason: Hello Moses! Hope I am not bombarding you with questions? I have sent to you a photo of two release bearings for my 1999 jeep 4.0L clutch assembly. Both are brand new. Which release bearing should I use? The one on the left is a composite (plastic)/steel design while the other one on the right is full cast (original design) . Thanks for any information you can give me! Luk is at left; OEM iron casting is at right. Click on photo to enlarge. Moses: Both release bearings work and appear to fit the same way, right? I’m drawn to the cast item at right in the photo you sent. Unless there is interference or a stack height problem, either should work. Match-up to the OEM would be advisable…The composite looks like a possible weight savings and maybe an NVH (noise-vibration-harshness) update. Jason: The composite/ plastic bearing came with the Luk Pro Gold clutch kit. I was apprehensive to use this new bearing because of its construction. I talked to Luk technical department and they said that the composite would not hang up on the bearing retainer if there was any signs of wear. They also told me that it does not require grease at the bearing retainer friction points. The cast release bearing is from mopar and I think I am going to install that one since it is a direct replacement from the original. I thought I would ask you to see if there was a better version of the original! Thanks again! Moses: I understand Luk’s approach, and that may be a perfectly good design—and improvement. It’s not earthshattering either way, as each design has its merits…There is a larger concern with the TJ Wrangler clutch assembly and release bearing selection: stack height of the clutch and bearing. The master cylinder for the clutch has only so much travel, and the location of the slave cylinder determines the amount of clutch release travel. These clutches are "self adjusting", and the release bearing and arm must be positioned correctly to allow full clutch travel and compensate for disk wear over time. Concerns include the flywheel face (resurfacing the flywheel affects the stack height relationship to the bellhousing); the clutch disk thickness and pressure plate height; and the release bearing's yoke flanges-to-bearing face height. The Luk and OEM bearings appear to have the same flange heights, and that would be my bigger concern...Moses
  24. Well, it seems this vehicle of mine likes to missbehave in spurts...No sooner were the intake and springs taken care of, now I better figure out something it has been doing for a little while now. Here goes: I put a '77 dodge truck BBD on the Jeep to replace a faulty Weber 32/36 (it was having secondary issues and was also the victim of some shop mischief). It is a manual choke, and takes just a moment to get it started in the morning. It idles like a champ, but the problem comes up that until it warms up, performance is terrible. When I press down on the accelerator, it acts as though the accelerator pump is not keeping up, or the intermediate circuit is fouIed. Even revving up from a stop sign might not keep it from stalling out in the middle of the instersection (I have also found that shifting from second to third, I had to shift back again, because the engine would sputter and start to die on a straightaway...). I already fixed the pump linkage once (it was not the best rebuild in my opinion) and the intermediate circuit looks clear. Once it warms up, there seems to be far less of a problem to it. I have had it do the accelerator stumble when warm, though. I am scratching my head here, as I love the Super Six BBD that I have, it is a reliable carburetor when it is built to spec... Also am wondering if it is a problem I am overlooking, like timing advance. She is set at 9 deg. BTDC (Although I have reason to believe that the timing chain is stretched...I recently had to reset the timing back down from 19BTDC) and have already done a nutter bypass on the engine and have an older style distributor on hand (to make up for the advance issues). Thanks again for any help. Sincerely, Pete H.
  25. I have viewed you webpage on the AX-15 rebuild. It is great! I have one question though. Where can you find the selective snap rings. I have been trying to locate one in particular and I have been told that it is discontinued with no replacement. The part number is 83506088. It is for the 3rd and 4th synchronizer and is 1.90mm. Do you have any idea where to source this part at? Any help would be greatly appreciated. This one ring is holding me up on my assembly. Thanks! BG
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