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  1. The buzzer doesnt come on any more when I put the keys in the ignition and the door is open. Same with the headlights! Is there a way to test the buzzer and its connector?
  2. Hello, first off let me begin by saying thank you to Moses for your site. It has helped me fix a lot of issues with my jeep. I have a 1988 jeep yj with the renix 2.5 tbi setup. The problem is that the jeep starts and runs but consistently spit, sputters and stalls. I can be driving down the road doing 55 mph and then it is like somebody turns the key off and back on again. it does this at idle as well. Things I have already done/replaced: new cap, rotor, plugs, wires, coil, ign. Module, ign. Switch, and the cps. I have gone through and tested the coolant temp sensor (for the ecu), intake temp sensor, map sensor. Also pulled the wiring harness from the engine compartment and went through each individual wire with my multimeter to ensure that they were good. I did this under the dash as well and cleaned all grounds. The throttle body i rebuilt about 6k miles ago. New fuel filter and pump. I am at a loss at this point and i hope for some guidance. The only thing i can think of is the ecm is going out but not positive. Thank you for your help, and i look forward to your reply Thomas
  3. Greetings from Northern Michigan, I am in the process of building a stroker for a 2002 TJ. I need to check the pushrod length. The engine is still on the stand. Do I need to prime the lifters to get the proper pre-load? Thanks so much, Jake
  4. In the second pic I know the line at arrow #1 goes to the air cleaner. Can anyone tell me where #2 and #3 should go? first pic is just a close up of the connections in question. Thanks
  5. Hi im from the Netherlands,. (So sorry for my bad English) and got a problem with a 89 jeep wrangler The jeep gots a 4,2 6cilinder with I guess a 32rh transmission the transmission pump has eating the converter ;) so the converter was rebuild, en a another pump mount, but I've changes also the clutch plates and seals after a everything was assembled : the car drives 1&2 gears perfect but the 3rd gear late, and. Cold very late. The reverse was slipping, so I've put everything out (again) and checks the front clutch, I've thought the inner seal of the front clutch was not right, after a new seal, and everything together the reverse works great! but still the 3rd gear is late and sometimes gone... ive tried another valve body, but doesn't help anything well did I see the rear band is going worn??? and went I put the front clutch on the pump and do a air check with 30psi the air is leaking between pump reaction shaft and the clutch housing but the front clutch sealing rings are new short: why does my rearband and rear drum go worn why does the 3rd gear shift so late/ is it usually that it leaks between reaction shaft and clutch by 30 psi? thanks Bas
  6. Hi, I have a '89 Wrangler with the 2.5l. It pops/backfires back up through the intake whenever I give it throttle. There are no vacuum leaks. I have replaced every sensor. I have swapped out the PCM, no change. I have checked fuel pressure, 15 psi. At this point I found excessive play in the distributor when rotating the crank, so I pulled the timing cover and found the chain to be stretched, and the cam sprocket and crank sprocket timing marks were mis-aligned. Aha! I said, and replaced the timing set- I set the crank to #1 TDC on compression, rotated the cam forward so that the marks would line up properly, and installed the new set. After reassembly, I checked the distributor and made sure that it was pointing to 6 o'clock when the timing mark on the cover was at 0 BTDC. I then fired it up, and the issue remains. Backfiring through the intake. Could this be a camshaft or valve issue? What would be the next move?
  7. Hi Moses I purchased your AX-15 rebuild video on vimeo. I also downloaded the AX-15 service manual before I started this project. When I started this project it was supposed to be a simple clutch install. How ever when I removed the transmission from the Jeep which is a 93 YJ Sahara. I noticed that the pilot bearing had grenaded and part of the inner race had welded its self to the input shaft on the transmission. I figured since I will have to tear the transmission down to replace the input shaft I might as well do a full rebuild since I had noticed some grinding going into 3'd gear on occasion. I ordered a new input shaft, and full rebuild kit with bearings, seals, synchro rings and what not and began the process of doing the rebuild. I followed your video to the T and verified everything with the shop manual. I got everything rebuilt and installed back in the jeep and everything worked fine albeit a bit on the tight side. The transmission shifted with no issues smoothly for about the first 5 miles. I then parked the jeep over night and when I went to drive it the next day it would grind horribly trying to get into 4th gear and would not go into 4th at all. Even if I put the jeep in 4th and then started the motor and let the clutch out it would just pop right out of 4th. There is also now a subdued but high pitched whining noise from the transmission. Any idea on what could be wrong and why it worked fine until I parked it and then everything went to the birds? The Jeep has a new friction disc, Pressure plate, Pilot bearing, Throwout bearing, New bearings, synchro's, seals, shifter bushing and seal, Transfer case was rebuilt with new bearings, new chain, new range fork, new mode fork pads, slip yoke eliminator kit, New heavy duty rear driveshaft, new Ujoints in the front drive shaft. Front and rear diff fluid changed and sealed. Tons of work to get the driveline back into good shape and now the trans has started having problems it never had before.
  8. Hey All, I have had my jeep for around a year, the only issue I have had is a bad master cylinder that had to be replaced, but since then no problems as a daily driver. Over the past few weeks she has suddenly started stalling on me and I wanted to get an opinion on what the symptoms point to so I can try to pinpoint the issue. So far I have tried replacing the ignition coil, and that did not fix the overall problem. Here are the symptoms: 1987 Jeep Wrangler Sport YJ 2.5 TBI. Jeep has started to stall at stop signs and stop lights, but only after getting warmed up (15 minutes or so). Stalling completely takes out brakes and power steering, but battery shows fine, and all interior electronics work. When turning the key on, I can hear the fuel pump going, and it doesn't stop. Previous owner said to not turn the key to accessory and keep it there as it will kill the fuel pump as it doesn't turn off. This doesn't seem normal to me? Jeep idles high when started, goes down to normal idle, and once warmed up will idle rough and low, 600-700. Idling will not cause her to die though, only movement and shifting. Jeep will not start back up once shes been running or after she stalls unless she sits for 10-15 minutes, and she will start fine but a little rough. 6 Months ago or so she started not starting occasionally unless I pushed the gas slightly as I cranked and she would then squeal and start rough. My action list for what I think might help or fix the issue, just waiting for a non rainy day: Check the ISCM module, clean it and check that its working (Whats the best process for making sure it is working as it should be?) Clean the throttle body and check for even fuel spray Replace crankshaft position sensor Replace fuel filter Replace fuel pump relay in hopes of stopping the thing from constantly running Check fuel pressure Replace fuel pump (My final resort, I will have a shop do this as I do not have the means) I am including a picture of my throttle body, how do I go about cleaning it? I cannot seem to find much about this online, every video or site shows what I am guessing a different fuel injection system. Do I remove the injectors on the top and clean underneath with throttle body cleaner? The jeep is 30 years old and is in really good shape for its age, I don't want to screw anything up, but I want to learn all I can. I guess I mainly want to know if I am in the right direction. I appreciate it. I have also read this thread: And it was also extremely helpful. Thanks! Tristan (Sorry for the long post, I wanted to give as much detail as possible)
  9. '91 YJ . Move the transfer case lever to 4h, the front axle engages and the indicator light comes on. All works fine at slow speeds, but as speed increases (toward 40 mph) the indicator light will flick off and then back on accompanied by "clunk" noise from the front and slight jerk felt in the chassis. Since the shift motor only has 2 vacuum lines, I assume that one applies vacuum for engagement and the other vacuum for disengagement. Both lines lead to the control switch on the transfer case. I suspect the control switch is failing. Any thoughts.
  10. Hello all, I am looking into buying a Jeep. I've never owned one, but I have some friends and family who have one and I'd like to get one as well. My car is in need of being replaced, so I was looking for something that can be used as a daily driver and also some camping and light off-roading in the summer. I found a local 2000 TJ Wrangler with 134,000 miles on it. It is listed at $10,900, but the owner said it is negotiable. It's also a 4.0 6 cylinder. Here is the description: 5 speed manual transmission. Bought in 2014, reconditioned with the following & lots more Kenwood stereo CD player with detachable face plate & aux input VDP 6 speaker 200 watt peak power sound bar Rough Country 4"suspension system with shocks, stabilizer & front/rear adjustable track bar Heavy duty front control arm brackets Yukon high performance 411 gears, front & rear Detroit TruTrac limited slip in rear New ball joints, upper/lower New fan clutch New radiator K & N air filter New steering box & power steering pump New Smitty Built seats, front high back bucket. rear fold & tumble - black Advanced adapters slip yoke eliminator & custom rear driveline Bushwacker flat fender flares Spyder custom rear bumper with tire carrier, custom front winch bumper, 12,500# winch Custom rock sliders Goodyear Duratrack 33" tires, about 5,000 miles New locking center console with cup holders This jeep looks very clean. The body is straight, paint looks good, interior looks clean. However, I haven't had the time to test drive it yet.. My question is, is this priced high? especially for the mileage? I am under the assumption that a taken care of jeep can last 300,000 without major repairs if it's taken care of. Is that wrong? I guess all in all I am just wondering if this would be a good purchase or not, and potential problems to check for when I take it for a test drive. Any help is appreciated, Thanks!
  11. I Can't believe that after owning my TJ for 4 years now, and being a member of numerious other forums that I am only just now finding this page and it's wealth of information. I Have searched around a bit, and while I have found a lot of useful info, I haven't quite seen what I'm after, so I figure that my best bet is to specifically ask, but 1st, Let me take tis opportunity to express my appreciation and respect. WOW!!!! I see a lot of questions, and a lot of great & knowledgable answers. KUDOS! Great job! Now, as stated before, I stumbled across this page earlier today while on my way to pick up a used transmission for my Jeep. I wasn't sure how to tell by sight weather or not the trans in question was going to interchange with mine. I was able to find enough info here to forward to the seller in order to determine that his trans was not a replacement for mine, which in turn saved me a 1&1/2 hour drive, & $150. As for the reason I'm interested in another trans??? Well... Let me give you as much history as possible. 2001 Jeep Wrangler, 4.0L, Auto, 60th anniv. "Extreme Edition" (I thought it was just stickers when I bought it, but after some research, I found that there is such a thing). This jeep Was in very clean shape. No signs of offroad use, or abuse. Showing only 88k miles I bought this Jeep from a local dealership several years ago. Drove fine during test drives, and on the 60 mile drive home. The next day, (saturday) I got in and upon leaving my neighborhood, I realized that it didn't want to shift from 2nd gear. I moved the shifter from D to 2 then back to D which caused a very noticable slip accompanied by a very defined whining noise. I drove around a few miles to to troubleshoot further, Stopping a couple times to check fluid levels and throttle valve adjustment, but nothing seemed to remedy the problem. Monday I returned to the dealership with the Jeep and what follows is all the history I have on this transmission. Previous owner traded for another vehicle. jeep was cleaned and put on the lot for sale. A potential buyer informed the salesman that it was not returning to 1st gear after stopping. Dealership had the transmission rebuilt at a local Transmission shop. Roughly a month later I buy the jeep and experience my problem. Jeep is returned to the same Transmission shop for repair. I was never told what was done, but a few days later It was returned to me and showed no problems for roughly 20k miles. During offroad use, I allowed water to come above the vent in the pump housing shortly before parking overnight. While checking fluids and other post offroad checks the next morning I discovered the bright pink transmission fluid. BUMMER!!! After speaking with a few local professionals, I removed the transmission and took it to a well known and competent Transmission builder in my area, who went through it and brought her back to life. Roughly 5-8k miles later I found myself offroad again, but this time involved some fairly serious & technical trail riding for a stock TJ. MAN that thing surprised me that night! But, the next day, it was discovered that my transmission was not shifting properly. Holding gears too long between shifts, not downshifting at stops. not responding to throttle input. sometimes not shifting at all without manual shifts from the shifter. I didn't have the time or money to mess with it, so I parked it for a couple months. After sitting a while, I decided to see if it decided to fix itself, and took it for a drive. At first, I found that it was better, but some symptoms were still intermittent. After 5-10 miles, they disapeared and the trans was functioning normally. I decided that my problem was quite possibly moisture in one of the connectors. another 5-8k miles, and another offroad excursion much like the last, except this time there was some water. Before long I was noticing that it had stopped shifting into 3rd gear. Not seeing any signs of water in the fluid, I limped it home, where the lack of time, money and just a general feeling of disgust let it sit for Roughly a year before I decided to mess with it again. Roughly one year later... I miss my jeep, i hate to see it just sitting around. So... I test drive it. the no shifting problem has improved, because now it will shift between the gears, but it takes some finagling between the throttle and the shifter to do so. I added a can of SEAFOAM, drove it 5-10 miles, changed the filter and cleaned the pan (there was some sediment and a little bit of stuff on the magnet), added fresh fluid, cleaned all the connectors. HEY HEY HEY!!!! We have a Jeep!!!!! working Great. No slipping, no whining, Great smooth shifts. I'm a happy jeeper. 4-5 tanks of gas later, the jeep has been sitting for about a week and a half. 10 mile drive to town, no problems. Next day, Gotta go to town again, but Jeep won't move forward or back. You can feel it drop into gear, but no movement aside from the initial pull of being in gear. input from the throttle results in a subtle whine. I as able to actually drive it onto the trailer using low range, and took it to the man who rebuilt it for me after the water ingress incident. I told him to check it out, and if go ahead if he found something that could be repaired while still in the jeep. I didn't wanna pay extra for R&R which I can do myself. He called me the next day to let me know that he could smell the burn as soon as he opened the pan, and found clutch material in the pan. He and I are both convinced that there is possibly a hairline fracture, or some other anomaly in either the case or valve body that is causing so many failures with this particular trans. As of right now we are sitting at 114k miles. After Finding this site Earlier today while searching for a replacement trans, I was compelled to ask your opinion on this matter. Any info or opinions are much appreciated. Thank you in advance. Gary Mckinney
  12. We have a 1990 Jeep Wrangler YJ, 2.5, Throttle Body, 5 speed. Sometime when we shift gears and accelerate it chokes down, like it isn't getting enough gas. We have tried cleaning the Throttle Body, the crankshaft speed sensor, changed fuel filter, cleaned air cleaner and ran sea foam through it. It still does it. Also, sometimes, when you start it, it dies then it starts really hard, lots of cranking, it is almost like it floods. Any suggestions? Thoughts?
  13. Members and Guests...We've had some great discussion on rebuilding the popular Aisin AX15 transmission, and my 'how-to' rebuild rental at Vimeo On Demand (http://www.vimeo.com/ondemand/ax15rebuild) has received solid feedback as a resource for shops and DIY level techs! I'm pleased to see many are able to successfully rebuild and thoroughly restore the AX15, made popular in 1989-1999 model year Jeep vehicles with the 4.0L engine. The AX15 transmission rebuild coverage and our discussion here at these forums also serve other applications of the AX15, including the Dodge Dakota, some Toyota truck models (and performance car applications) plus Isuzu and GM use. There are, however, instances when a transmission is simply not rebuildable. You do the teardown, follow my inspection guidelines or a factory shop manual, and discover that the wear exceeds any reasonable parts replacement costs...In these cases, we do have an outlet and sensible alternative: Advance Adapters and a new AX15 transmission! Note: Many owners have discovered that a "good used" transmission is an oxymoron for an off-road 4x4 vehicle that gets oversized tires and a lot of shifting either off-pavement or in city traffic. I'm not an advocate of buying "good used" unless you know the history of the donor vehicle. Any 1989-99 Jeep 4x4 transmission has seen more than enough use and is a candidate for my "blueprint rebuild" or a complete replacement. "Good used" can simply translate to "definitely used"! In the day, a BW T-18 or T-98, a GM SM420 or SM465, a New Process NP435 or other commercial grade, iron case "truck" transmissions (or the more contemporary NV4500 or NV5600) were often still in serviceable condition after the vehicle expired. That will not be the case with a used, higher mileage AX15 transmission, it will not provide long or reliable service as a high mileage used purchase. Optimistically, such a "core" might be rebuildable. I have worked closely with Advance Adapters' full line of transmission to transfer case adapters, Atlas transfer cases and other products for decades now. (We can thank Advance Adapters for its support at the magazine and these forums, too!) For many owners, the fatigue and normal wear of a powertrain provides the incentive for unique and popular upgrading of a 4x4 powertrain. In that arena, the Aisin AX15 has become the contemporary transmission of choice for stock 4.0L restorations and even swaps of moderate horsepower V-8 power into a Jeep 4x4 chassis. For horsepower to the 275-300 range (like an LS3 or a 4.6L Jeep inline six stroker) plus a useful overdrive gear, I consider a freshly and properly rebuilt AX15 as a prime candidate for a street/trail "build". These swaps or buildups do require either a rebuilt or new Aisin AX15. This contemporary transmission has also become the replacement for the later, expensive to rebuild 6-speed Jeep TJ Wrangler transmissions. Yes, a brand new AX15 transmission, ready for bolt-in replacement in Jeep and many Dodge Dakota, Toyota and Isuzu applications! These units are close ratio five-speeds (5th overdrive) that can bring new life into a higher mileage vehicle. They also deliver a desirable level of contemporary torque and stamina for moderate horsepower V-8 transplants where an overdrive is desirable. (These units even look great, click on these photos!) The exciting news is that you have the option of buying a new Aisin AX15. These units, available through Advance Adapters (a direct Aisin distributor), provide all of the legendary features and reliability found in new Jeep 4x4s from the Jeep YJ/TJ and XJ Cherokee era (or Dodge Dakota 3.9 V-6 models and other AX15 applications). Advance Adapters has a long reputation for serving the 4WD community, whether sponsoring enthusiast runs at Moab, Utah or supporting the off-road racing community. Advance Adapters maintains this approach with the pricing of these new Aisin AX15 transmissions. So, if your AX15 is either too worn for rebuilding or you're building a contemporary Jeep 4x4 project for the street/trail or off-road use, consider the Advance Adapters AX15 option! For more details, visit the Advance Adapters website at: http://www.AdvanceAdapters.com! Moses
  14. Hi, I'm getting a noise from my YJ 3-speed TF999 transmission. It starts when the transmission shifts to 2nd gear, then it comes louder and faster when shifts to 3rd gear. When I release the gas pedal it will be more noticeable as the Engine sound is not at the background. I've removed the tunnel cover plate and recorded this video to see if anyone of you can help me out to identify which will be a possible source of that noise. I'm thinking it can be the planetary gears. There is also another noise that I think it can be coming from the Transmission Oil Pump. Let me know what can be causing that pump to emit that noise if you know. Any comment is wellcome. Thanks. IMG_3531.MOV
  15. Hi, Just swapped out my AX15 transmission on my 97 Jeep Wrangler. After I completed the job, with the engine off, I was able to shift through the gears without issue. I pressed the clutch pedal and it was easy the first few times then became extremely stiff. I removed the external slave cylinder from the bell housing and manually pushed in the clutch fork with my finger. The fork moved forward easily, then I heard something fall inside the bell housing. I pulled the tranny back off and found the clutch fork retaining clip had fallen off. I proceeded to put it back in place ensuring it was secured. After attaching the tranny back on, I tested the clutch pedal which appeared to operate normally (engine off) as well as ensuring I could shift through the gears without issue. I then continued with attaching the rest of the harnesses, transfer case, etc.. I fired up the engine and heard a knocking sound which appeared to be coming from the external slave cylinder area. As I depressed the clutch, the knocking stopped. I turned off the engine, removed the slave cylinder and had my wife press on the clutch pedal. It became stiff again. I pulled the transmission again and the clutch fork retaining clip was still secured. This is where I have left off for the night. I plan on bleeding the master / slave cylinder system tomorrow and see if that fixes the issue with the stiff clutch pedal. Some questions: 1) How far should I be able to press in the clutch fork manually with the external slave cylinder removed from the bell housing? 2) Should the clutch fork return after being depressed manually (like a spring) with the external slave cylinder removed from the bell housing (mine didn't. After pressing on the clutch fork, it remained in the position I had pushed it to). 2) Should the clutch pedal move freely with the external slave cylinder removed from the bell housing? 3) Could it be the throw-out bearing? It appears to be ok from visual inspection, it slides along the transmission shaft easily, the springs are all intact. Any suggestions would be welcomed. Thanks.
  16. Hi all, I've got this issue for about a year. Transmission will not upshift from 2nd to 3rd when it's cold.It will when engine rpms are above at least 2200 - 2500. After 3 or 4 upshifts it will eventually behave as it should. I've replaced filter and flushed it. New 8 liters of ATF are in it and still there were no results. Then, I've tried adjusting TV cable. Results are following - It will shift from 1st to 2nd at light throttle when rpms are in between 1500-1900. 2nd to 3rd shift is also in between 1500-1900 rpm. But new problem appears now, also when transmission is cold. When it upshifts into 3rd, if I easily press throttle pedal it slips. Like it's shifted into neutral, and suddenly at 1900-2000 rpms it shifts into 2nd (i think). If i let off throttle pedal it will again upshift into 3rd and same story again. This happens ONLY when transmission is cold. If I readjust TV cable again the shift point for 3rd is again high ( about 2200rpms). Is this TV cable related or there is something wrong inside valve body? There is also one thing I've noticed, I'm not sure if it is normal. When driving some 40mph in 2nd, seems like it first locks-up in 2nd ( about 150 rpms drop) and then upshifts into 3rd. If i drive in 3rd and press throttle a bit harder, it downshifts into 2nd but TC is still locked. Only when I fully press throttle it will downshift into 2nd and unlock. Even when I go uphill it stays locked until I give it a lot more throttle. Is this normal and shouldn't lock-up occur only when in 3rd?
  17. I have a 95 YJ 4 litre let's running extra rich. It will foul out the spark plugs with carbon fouling within a few minutes. Let me start at the beginning, I bought this Jeep running terrible. I was told it had a dead battery while jump starting they hooked up the cables backwards. I thought this was probably true due to the fact that both alternator fuses were blown. I drove it nine miles home and went through over 4 gallons of gas. Most of that ran out the tailpipe or was dumped into the crankcase. The number 5 and 6 injectors we're running fuel anytime the key was in the run position. I diagnose that problem to a burnt PCM. The PCM was sent out to a repair facility and upon return was installed and no start. the light on the dashboard would not even light up. I was told by the repair facility that that was their fault send it back and I would get a replacement. Upon installing the replacement PCM, the engine would start but still running very rich. The injectors no longer run when they're not supposed to. I started doing test procedures according to the Chrysler service manual. Cylinder leak down test shows all cylinders between 12 and 10% leakage. All cylinders 125 to 130 psi compression. Cam position sensor checks out ok crank sensor okay distributor cap rotor wires and plugs all new. timing ok per the book. ignition coil showed a low ohm reading on the primary side so I replaced it. spark is OK MAP sensor is OK idle air control solenoid was sticky so I replaced. Sprayed carburetor cleaner all around intake and didn't show any vacuum leaks. Manifold vacuum on my gauge reads low. About 5 inches at idle and up to 12 to 15 inches when rev up. Pulled the o2 sensor and plugged in a pressure gauge to do back pressure. Shows 1 pound pressure. Doesn't go up when engine revved so catalytic converter doesn't seem to be clogged. Running rich enough that in the three weeks I have been trying to figure this out, the new spark plugs were fouled enough to make hard starting. Since then I have installed fresh spark plugs. It will start and run but terribly rich. It acts like its not timed right, but all that is controlled through the PCM. Every check I do seems to point to the PCM still not being right. I am now one step away from doing the 5 gallons of gas and a match procedure. What in the heck am I missing?
  18. I've mentioned something about a knock noise coming form the rear end on my YJ Sahara Edition in other post, but would be better to have this issue discussed separately from the other topic related to miscellaneous engine parts missing. Finally got the differential carrier out of the axle to inspect every component. Found that one of the pressure washers (not sure if is that how it is called) was cracked, so it wasn't doing any pressure against the clutch pack on the driver side at all. So the rear end was feeling like it was locked all the time, specially in tight turns to the left. I've ordered a complete clutch and gear replacement set and noticed that the gears are different from the ones that I have already installed. It looks like they were for C-Clip shafts but I see no problem if the shaft is non C-Clip type. Anyway, I would like to get some coments for all you that have more experience in this matter. Vendor says that this is an improved kit that will work with C-Clip and bolt on axles. All carrier and pinion bearings replacement ordered as well, replaced side bearings and heading to replace pinion bearings this next weekend. There was a lot of shiny metal particles in the differential fluid. The shaft bearings grease seems to have some as well, the grease looks gray instead of Red, its original color. Regards.
  19. Hi all, my name is Jack, and I'm fairly new to owning a 4x4 but my brother and I have gone many times. I have been looking to get one for some time, so today I took a test drive and have now put a deposit down on a 2010 Jeep Wrangler JK Rubicon today from Berwick Chrysler Jeep. I just wanted to get an idea of anything I should look out for before a final purchase? Is there anything that are known for wearing early? I know it comes with a 3 year 150,000km Protection Plan, but I don't want to be stranded out in the sticks somewhere that's all. Also I was just after some quick tips on places to go around Victoria for some timid off roading, camping and fishing? Cheers, Jack
  20. I've owned a 2004 TJ Wrangler Sport for a couple of years now and it has been stalling in 2nd gear the last few weeks. I gave the car to Berwick jeep service centre and all they tell me is that their computer doesn't show them what's causing it and that there is no problem. Has anyone had this issue? i know its not my driving!!!
  21. AMC/Jeep® always leaned forward in both car and utility vehicle designs. By the mid-'80s, the CJ needed a contemporary replacement, a vehicle with wider track for handling and a better highway ride package. The Wrangler emerged just as AMC sold to Chrysler, and the Wrangler and XJ Cherokee were the profit items Mopar wanted! The Wrangler four- and inline six era represents huge growth in the 4WD/SUV market overall, and there are huge numbers of enthusiasts, owners and buyers who can build a "community" at this forum! —Moses Ludel At left is an '87 YJ Wrangler, leaf springs articulating on the rocks! Middle is the Quadra-Coil™-suspension TJ Wrangler Rubicion edition, the engineering and off-road pinnacle of the Wrangler inline four- and six-cylinder era! At right, Moses Ludel's Jeep Owner's Bible, 3rd Edition, covers models through the Wrangler YJ and TJ...
  22. I've been a Jeep enthusiast since 1997. My first Jeep was a 1982 CJ8 Scrambler. One YJ and 4 TJs, the current one being a 2004 Rubicon with 52,000 original miles and trail modified. I have been experiencing the famous P0301 trouble code very intermittently unless it was cold outside, then it was steady. Rain or shine didn't seem to change anything. I live in Minnesota where winters are cold. Started with the obvious tune-up, copper plugs and the coil rail. Battery connections, grounds, injector cleaning and replacement, throttle body cleaning. The works. Could not isolate the misfire. Started chasing wires. No luck. Many live data scanners, no luck. Compression tests and leak down well within spec. Valves also seating and rotating well. Became very frustrating. Pulled the alternator, tested good. The battery tested good ( the first time). Wasn't sure what to do. Finally, the other morning it was -17 degrees F. The Jeep just didn't have the juice to start. Thought that was strange. Rain or shine it always started. Jumped it and went to auto parts store. Dead cell in battery. Thinking back first good freeze, we experienced this and had the same test done. I overlooked the issue and accepted its first passing test. No one on any of these forums makes mention of voltage or battery replacement or testing. Well I replaced the battery. Not a single misfire in a month. I've wasted countless hours diagnosing this misfire, and it ended up being my battery. Turns out they're pretty sensitive to low voltage. Thx for all the info on your site!
  23. I understand that many people get "noticeable" power gain by tuning the ignition timing on the Jeep 2.5L TBI four-cylinder engine. Some relocate the IAT in a cold place (cheap but small power gain) and others drilled a new position for the CPS to get 3-4 degrees variation. CPS relocation mod made me realize that timing can be tweaked by editing the signal going from cps to ignition module. I'm not into drilling the engine, so I called the italian AEB to get a controller (to be installed on the CPS line going to the ignition module) to adjust timing and they answered that is definitely doable, but they need a oscilloscope report of the CPS signal to give me a module that fits. I'll let you know if I get any further in this direction. In the meantime, do you know of any kit/ecu/module/processor designed for this purpose? Googling "adjust timing on yj" mostly returns a useless "you can't adjust timing by turning the distributor". Happy New Year! Claudio
  24. In this video discussion, I describe the symptoms of hydraulic clutch linkage leaks in 1987-95 Jeep YJ Wrangler models. Originally part of the Q&A Vlog at the magazine, the viewer's question refers to hard shifting and loss of hydraulic fluid. I share what causes these troubles in this how-to HD video on troubleshooting: Moses
  25. Aisin AX15 manual 5-speed transmissions are popular and found in 1989-99 Jeep vehicles, Dodge Dakota pickups and some GM/Isuzu and Toyota light trucks. Highly detailed, this close up step-by-step instructional HD video rental is available only at vimeo.com/ondemand/ax15rebuild. Included is the information necessary for performing a complete restoration and professional level rebuild of the AX15 transmission. The AX15 transmission rebuilding process involves complex disassembly and assembly sequences. This is a precision gearbox, and every teardown and assembly step is equally important. Knowing which new parts your transmission requires is also valuable. This HD video rental includes two sections. Part 1 is teardown and inspection to establish your needed parts list. Part 2 is the assembly work. Both Part 1 and Part 2 are included in this 94-minute instructional HD video! Whether you have a shop specializing in light truck and 4x4 work or have a one-time 'DIY' project for your personal Jeep, light truck or SUV, this 30-day HD video rental can save you considerable time and money. For the cost of an AX15 shift cover boot, the rental will pay for itself many times over! The magazine's most popular technical articles and how-to videos have been reformatted and painstakingly edited as Vimeo On Demand productions. The latest feature is this in depth instructional how-to covering the rebuild of the popular Aisin AX15 transmission. Access the 94-minute Vimeo On Demand feature at: http://www.vimeo.com/ondemand/ax15rebuild
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