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Showing results for tags 'jeep tj'.
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Moses, I finally got around to 'scoping up my TJ for further diagnosis. I've attached pictures of various traces. A few notes: CH1: Cyl 1 Spark Plug Wire (via capacitive probe) CH2: Spark Coil Wire (via capacitive probe) CH3: MAP Sensor Signal My capacitive probes are cheap and I think the probe on CH1 (Cyl 1 plug wire) may be degraded. It works well enough to trigger the 'scope, and the probe on CH2 seems to do a fine job picking up the coil spark train. OR: is this degradation actually evidence of an issue? I've replaced the cap & rotor several times with no change to my symptoms. I should have swapped the probes to see if the weak signal followed the probe. Also note the noise on CH3 (MAP sensor signal), seemingly uncorrelated with injectors or spark plug firing. Is that amount of noise normal? I wonder from where it's coming, how much is present on the other sensor lines, and what effect it has. I wish I had reference signal traces of a known-good 4.0L. Regardless, it does appear that the MAP sensor has sufficient bandwidth to capture manifold vacuum fluctuations within the firing order. Pretty cool! I've tried to choose filenames that describe the activity being shown. I'm happy to do additional rounds of scope work, adjust the time-base, delay the trigger to capture each cylinder individually, etc. I do know that features of spark waveforms can be used for troubleshooting, but I am not at all versed in that area. Let me know if any of this helps!
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What is the proper valve spring shim OD / ID for an all-stock '98 TJ 4.0L (0630 head)? I believe the stock springs are approx 1.390 OD / 0.970 ID. The closest shims I can find are Comp Cams 4736-16 at 1.250 OD / 0.814 ID; I'm not sure if that ID will clear the valve seal boss. I could disassemble and measure, but I'd rather ask here first so I can get the proper shim ahead of time. Thanks!
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Can anyone tell me step by step how to change out the old torque converter clutch solenoid with the new. 2002 jeep TJ 32RH transmission. -
I put out a post about changing my power steering pump and wondering how to flush the system. what fluid do I use the ATF+4? -
Well my power steering is on its last leg and screaming at me literally to be changed. I ordered a NEW pump and a serp belt and also the puller tool for the pulley. My main concern is to flush the system so I have all new fluid in there. whats the easiest way to go about this?
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I bought these wheel spacers 1 1/2" and they are hub centric. What worries me is that when I put one on the nuts they give you only go on half way like a 1/2". The 1997 TJ came with steel wheels. Is this why the studs are a little short? Is 1/2" enough with thread lock to be safe even if they are hub centric? Im an older gent so all I do is tool around,no off road or anything. Do you think I should use them? Will the hold up under just normal driving? Anyone come across a problem like this? thx for any input..
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Hello, Once again I have this issue for like 3 years. Trans would not shift from 2nd to 3rd on slow speed by default, it would go into neutral and after I give some more throttle it would downshift to 2nd. If I get to 40 mph or similar, once I release throttle pedal it would shift to 3rd and after that everything works fine - no problem at any speed. So my guesses are that something is stuck in valve body or governor. Until now filter has been replaced, fluid flushed (was red even before flush), TV cable adjusted, bands adjusted. The reasons why I suspect on governor valve is that this seems to be related to vehicle speed. Why I suspect about it sticking is that once (or twice) times the trans gets into 3rd after driving at greater speeds, it will work fine until i turn of vehicle and leave it for 3-4 hours, sometimes less sometimes more. I also remember that once I got stuck in some pond and engine turned off because of hydrolock, so trans spent some time in water. After that the problem was gone, and it reappeared after two months. I immediately flushed trans that time but there was no water in it however. Could it be that there is some crud that block weights in governor and make it stuck sometimes? Am I missing something or the problem is probably governor? I've also noticed that when the car is cold (like if i leave it overnight) the trans shifts from 1st to 2nd at later rpm on same throttle applied (like shifts occur on 2100rpm when cold and bit below 2000 rpm when warm) -
So I did a trans service on my 1997 TJ. Filter new oil etc. I noticed a leak in one of the lines going to the radiator. I bought a kit on ebay. Hosses, lines and hardware, im really not looking forward to messing with the lines on the trans. The leak is further teard the rad along the frame. So my thinking is to cut the lines up to the bad part and put the new lines via brass fittings. That would be so much easier. My delema? I dont know and cant find anywhere the size of the lined so I can buy fittings beforehand. Can anyone help me with this or has anyone ever changed the lines on the trans without having to waste a whole day!? After the second service in 3 mos. and a adj on bands the trans is shifting very well hopefully it will last. Any help on the line size or what im getting into if I bother with lines on tran would be very helpfull. Thx guys... bigwheel53
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This is driving me nuts..The display on my radio does not light up. A couple of times it came on but now its been off for good I think. The orange wire is the illumination wire and it has no power to it. All the buttons and backlighting work with the dimmer switch..even the radio works but no display because this orange wire..I don't want to start cutting the harness up to find out where the source is. Does anyone know where this orange wire comes from? The light switch ? the ignition switch? All the fuses are good. Could it be a ground wire somewhere? I just want everything to work normally..Im not a big radio fan,just want to hear the news etc. but I don't know what station im on lol
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random, intermittent #1 cylinder misfire. I have replaced the coil-pac, #1 injector, spark plugs, and both upstream O2 sensors. engine leakdown and compression normal though #1 slightly lower in compression. emissions always meet I/M standards (no certificate of waiver needed). have all heat shields including #3 injector so vapor lock not issue. engine runs good when not misfiring though does have a slight roughness noticeable when at idle. Is there any way to check the current of an injector wire or plug while engine is running and showing symptoms to see if all is well in the wiring harness? engine bay is quite clean for 235k mi. and no noticeable damage to wiring harness, but there could be a partial open in a circuit I suppose. Any ideas? don't know where to go from here with repairs/diagnosis etc. Oh, misfire occurs mostly after engine has been under normal-use-load for a couple hours or so, but not always. sometimes it is misfiring at cold-start. -
I purchased a '97 Wrangler with a 2.5L and as I'm reading I think has a 30RH 3 speed automatic transmission. The transmission has some serious issues that have me teetering on rebuild/replacement. I was wondering if it could be adjusted in the same manner as the 32RH? I had read through the forum on this page regarding band adjustment, oil cooler, etc... With that said here are the issues: The transmission will not engage into first gear if shifter is left in drive. I can however manually shift it through the gears with much better efficiency. The kickdown rarely works, so again I must manually downshift to create the necessary power to get up to speed. The transmission fluid smells a little burnt but has good red color. Before I drop the pan and dig in, is there anything I can do from the exterior before I end my summer fun? I have no real history on the vehicle and it has 173k on the odometer. I'm leaning towards adjusting the throttle cable first to see if it helps. I just did a full tune on the motor and it did help a bit with power. -
Hi Moses I purchased your AX-15 rebuild video on vimeo. I also downloaded the AX-15 service manual before I started this project. When I started this project it was supposed to be a simple clutch install. How ever when I removed the transmission from the Jeep which is a 93 YJ Sahara. I noticed that the pilot bearing had grenaded and part of the inner race had welded its self to the input shaft on the transmission. I figured since I will have to tear the transmission down to replace the input shaft I might as well do a full rebuild since I had noticed some grinding going into 3'd gear on occasion. I ordered a new input shaft, and full rebuild kit with bearings, seals, synchro rings and what not and began the process of doing the rebuild. I followed your video to the T and verified everything with the shop manual. I got everything rebuilt and installed back in the jeep and everything worked fine albeit a bit on the tight side. The transmission shifted with no issues smoothly for about the first 5 miles. I then parked the jeep over night and when I went to drive it the next day it would grind horribly trying to get into 4th gear and would not go into 4th at all. Even if I put the jeep in 4th and then started the motor and let the clutch out it would just pop right out of 4th. There is also now a subdued but high pitched whining noise from the transmission. Any idea on what could be wrong and why it worked fine until I parked it and then everything went to the birds? The Jeep has a new friction disc, Pressure plate, Pilot bearing, Throwout bearing, New bearings, synchro's, seals, shifter bushing and seal, Transfer case was rebuilt with new bearings, new chain, new range fork, new mode fork pads, slip yoke eliminator kit, New heavy duty rear driveshaft, new Ujoints in the front drive shaft. Front and rear diff fluid changed and sealed. Tons of work to get the driveline back into good shape and now the trans has started having problems it never had before. -
Hello all, I am looking into buying a Jeep. I've never owned one, but I have some friends and family who have one and I'd like to get one as well. My car is in need of being replaced, so I was looking for something that can be used as a daily driver and also some camping and light off-roading in the summer. I found a local 2000 TJ Wrangler with 134,000 miles on it. It is listed at $10,900, but the owner said it is negotiable. It's also a 4.0 6 cylinder. Here is the description: 5 speed manual transmission. Bought in 2014, reconditioned with the following & lots more Kenwood stereo CD player with detachable face plate & aux input VDP 6 speaker 200 watt peak power sound bar Rough Country 4"suspension system with shocks, stabilizer & front/rear adjustable track bar Heavy duty front control arm brackets Yukon high performance 411 gears, front & rear Detroit TruTrac limited slip in rear New ball joints, upper/lower New fan clutch New radiator K & N air filter New steering box & power steering pump New Smitty Built seats, front high back bucket. rear fold & tumble - black Advanced adapters slip yoke eliminator & custom rear driveline Bushwacker flat fender flares Spyder custom rear bumper with tire carrier, custom front winch bumper, 12,500# winch Custom rock sliders Goodyear Duratrack 33" tires, about 5,000 miles New locking center console with cup holders This jeep looks very clean. The body is straight, paint looks good, interior looks clean. However, I haven't had the time to test drive it yet.. My question is, is this priced high? especially for the mileage? I am under the assumption that a taken care of jeep can last 300,000 without major repairs if it's taken care of. Is that wrong? I guess all in all I am just wondering if this would be a good purchase or not, and potential problems to check for when I take it for a test drive. Any help is appreciated, Thanks!
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Members and Guests...We've had some great discussion on rebuilding the popular Aisin AX15 transmission, and my 'how-to' rebuild rental at Vimeo On Demand (http://www.vimeo.com/ondemand/ax15rebuild) has received solid feedback as a resource for shops and DIY level techs! I'm pleased to see many are able to successfully rebuild and thoroughly restore the AX15, made popular in 1989-1999 model year Jeep vehicles with the 4.0L engine. The AX15 transmission rebuild coverage and our discussion here at these forums also serve other applications of the AX15, including the Dodge Dakota, some Toyota truck models (and performance car applications) plus Isuzu and GM use. There are, however, instances when a transmission is simply not rebuildable. You do the teardown, follow my inspection guidelines or a factory shop manual, and discover that the wear exceeds any reasonable parts replacement costs...In these cases, we do have an outlet and sensible alternative: Advance Adapters and a new AX15 transmission! Note: Many owners have discovered that a "good used" transmission is an oxymoron for an off-road 4x4 vehicle that gets oversized tires and a lot of shifting either off-pavement or in city traffic. I'm not an advocate of buying "good used" unless you know the history of the donor vehicle. Any 1989-99 Jeep 4x4 transmission has seen more than enough use and is a candidate for my "blueprint rebuild" or a complete replacement. "Good used" can simply translate to "definitely used"! In the day, a BW T-18 or T-98, a GM SM420 or SM465, a New Process NP435 or other commercial grade, iron case "truck" transmissions (or the more contemporary NV4500 or NV5600) were often still in serviceable condition after the vehicle expired. That will not be the case with a used, higher mileage AX15 transmission, it will not provide long or reliable service as a high mileage used purchase. Optimistically, such a "core" might be rebuildable. I have worked closely with Advance Adapters' full line of transmission to transfer case adapters, Atlas transfer cases and other products for decades now. (We can thank Advance Adapters for its support at the magazine and these forums, too!) For many owners, the fatigue and normal wear of a powertrain provides the incentive for unique and popular upgrading of a 4x4 powertrain. In that arena, the Aisin AX15 has become the contemporary transmission of choice for stock 4.0L restorations and even swaps of moderate horsepower V-8 power into a Jeep 4x4 chassis. For horsepower to the 275-300 range (like an LS3 or a 4.6L Jeep inline six stroker) plus a useful overdrive gear, I consider a freshly and properly rebuilt AX15 as a prime candidate for a street/trail "build". These swaps or buildups do require either a rebuilt or new Aisin AX15. This contemporary transmission has also become the replacement for the later, expensive to rebuild 6-speed Jeep TJ Wrangler transmissions. Yes, a brand new AX15 transmission, ready for bolt-in replacement in Jeep and many Dodge Dakota, Toyota and Isuzu applications! These units are close ratio five-speeds (5th overdrive) that can bring new life into a higher mileage vehicle. They also deliver a desirable level of contemporary torque and stamina for moderate horsepower V-8 transplants where an overdrive is desirable. (These units even look great, click on these photos!) The exciting news is that you have the option of buying a new Aisin AX15. These units, available through Advance Adapters (a direct Aisin distributor), provide all of the legendary features and reliability found in new Jeep 4x4s from the Jeep YJ/TJ and XJ Cherokee era (or Dodge Dakota 3.9 V-6 models and other AX15 applications). Advance Adapters has a long reputation for serving the 4WD community, whether sponsoring enthusiast runs at Moab, Utah or supporting the off-road racing community. Advance Adapters maintains this approach with the pricing of these new Aisin AX15 transmissions. So, if your AX15 is either too worn for rebuilding or you're building a contemporary Jeep 4x4 project for the street/trail or off-road use, consider the Advance Adapters AX15 option! For more details, visit the Advance Adapters website at: http://www.AdvanceAdapters.com! Moses
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Hi, Just swapped out my AX15 transmission on my 97 Jeep Wrangler. After I completed the job, with the engine off, I was able to shift through the gears without issue. I pressed the clutch pedal and it was easy the first few times then became extremely stiff. I removed the external slave cylinder from the bell housing and manually pushed in the clutch fork with my finger. The fork moved forward easily, then I heard something fall inside the bell housing. I pulled the tranny back off and found the clutch fork retaining clip had fallen off. I proceeded to put it back in place ensuring it was secured. After attaching the tranny back on, I tested the clutch pedal which appeared to operate normally (engine off) as well as ensuring I could shift through the gears without issue. I then continued with attaching the rest of the harnesses, transfer case, etc.. I fired up the engine and heard a knocking sound which appeared to be coming from the external slave cylinder area. As I depressed the clutch, the knocking stopped. I turned off the engine, removed the slave cylinder and had my wife press on the clutch pedal. It became stiff again. I pulled the transmission again and the clutch fork retaining clip was still secured. This is where I have left off for the night. I plan on bleeding the master / slave cylinder system tomorrow and see if that fixes the issue with the stiff clutch pedal. Some questions: 1) How far should I be able to press in the clutch fork manually with the external slave cylinder removed from the bell housing? 2) Should the clutch fork return after being depressed manually (like a spring) with the external slave cylinder removed from the bell housing (mine didn't. After pressing on the clutch fork, it remained in the position I had pushed it to). 2) Should the clutch pedal move freely with the external slave cylinder removed from the bell housing? 3) Could it be the throw-out bearing? It appears to be ok from visual inspection, it slides along the transmission shaft easily, the springs are all intact. Any suggestions would be welcomed. Thanks. -
I've owned a 2004 TJ Wrangler Sport for a couple of years now and it has been stalling in 2nd gear the last few weeks. I gave the car to Berwick jeep service centre and all they tell me is that their computer doesn't show them what's causing it and that there is no problem. Has anyone had this issue? i know its not my driving!!! -
I've been a Jeep enthusiast since 1997. My first Jeep was a 1982 CJ8 Scrambler. One YJ and 4 TJs, the current one being a 2004 Rubicon with 52,000 original miles and trail modified. I have been experiencing the famous P0301 trouble code very intermittently unless it was cold outside, then it was steady. Rain or shine didn't seem to change anything. I live in Minnesota where winters are cold. Started with the obvious tune-up, copper plugs and the coil rail. Battery connections, grounds, injector cleaning and replacement, throttle body cleaning. The works. Could not isolate the misfire. Started chasing wires. No luck. Many live data scanners, no luck. Compression tests and leak down well within spec. Valves also seating and rotating well. Became very frustrating. Pulled the alternator, tested good. The battery tested good ( the first time). Wasn't sure what to do. Finally, the other morning it was -17 degrees F. The Jeep just didn't have the juice to start. Thought that was strange. Rain or shine it always started. Jumped it and went to auto parts store. Dead cell in battery. Thinking back first good freeze, we experienced this and had the same test done. I overlooked the issue and accepted its first passing test. No one on any of these forums makes mention of voltage or battery replacement or testing. Well I replaced the battery. Not a single misfire in a month. I've wasted countless hours diagnosing this misfire, and it ended up being my battery. Turns out they're pretty sensitive to low voltage. Thx for all the info on your site! -
Aisin AX15 manual 5-speed transmissions are popular and found in 1989-99 Jeep vehicles, Dodge Dakota pickups and some GM/Isuzu and Toyota light trucks. Highly detailed, this close up step-by-step instructional HD video rental is available only at vimeo.com/ondemand/ax15rebuild. Included is the information necessary for performing a complete restoration and professional level rebuild of the AX15 transmission. The AX15 transmission rebuilding process involves complex disassembly and assembly sequences. This is a precision gearbox, and every teardown and assembly step is equally important. Knowing which new parts your transmission requires is also valuable. This HD video rental includes two sections. Part 1 is teardown and inspection to establish your needed parts list. Part 2 is the assembly work. Both Part 1 and Part 2 are included in this 94-minute instructional HD video! Whether you have a shop specializing in light truck and 4x4 work or have a one-time 'DIY' project for your personal Jeep, light truck or SUV, this 30-day HD video rental can save you considerable time and money. For the cost of an AX15 shift cover boot, the rental will pay for itself many times over! The magazine's most popular technical articles and how-to videos have been reformatted and painstakingly edited as Vimeo On Demand productions. The latest feature is this in depth instructional how-to covering the rebuild of the popular Aisin AX15 transmission. Access the 94-minute Vimeo On Demand feature at: http://www.vimeo.com/ondemand/ax15rebuild
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The paddle handles on the ouside of my TJ drivers door is difficult to open and usually remains stuck open. The paddle is twisted inside the rest of the housing so I'm assuming there's a bushing that has worn out and now causing the paddle to rub against the housing. I ordered replacement handles from Quadratec, and when they arrived I found the two bolt holes that hold the handle assembly inside the door are not tapped. Does anyone know what size thread this hardware is, so I can get the correct tap and complete the installation??? I plan on calling the parts desk at the Jeep dealer, and hopefully they can locate the bolts and provide this information to save some time. -
I need some help troubleshooting the possible causes for OBD code P1486 on my 2002 TJ. The MIL has been on for weeks now with this code because I cannot figure out the problem, and three repair shops have not been able to figure it out either. P1486 is a kinked hose in the evaporative emissions system. I have checked the hoses between the charcoal canister and throttle body, etc, and do not find any kinked hoses or hoses with a blockage. The first repair shop thought this was caused by a leak, and did a smoke test but found no leaks. The third shop thought there was a problem with my gas cap, but it was replaced with no change. All of the shops could not find anything conclusive and suggested I go to the Jeep dealer for diagnosis. I have read up on the components of the system and the automatic tests it performs, and if I understand correctly the leak test is the first test run on this system followed by a blockage test. I assume the leak test passed because I do not have a code for a leak, only the kinked hose. Using this assumption I ruled out the leak detection pump needing replacement. Since the hoses were all OK, I decided to forego the trip to the dealer because the charcoal canister and purge solenoid cost less than what the dealer would charge to diagnose for an hour. I replaced the canister and solenoid. When replacing the canister I found one of the hoses was cracked where it attached to the canister so I cut off enough length to get rid of the crack. No other cracks or blockages were found in any of the hoses. The MIL was reset by disconnecting the battery. Three or four days later the MIL was back on with the P1486 code again. I don't know where else to look and would rather not go to the dealer and risk them not finding anything but still paying their diagnostics and labor rates. Any suggestions? The Jeep runs well most of the time, but since the MIL is lit all the time I don't know if there is another problem coming up. This is even more annoying because I am getting an intermittent misfire code about once every two to four weeks which sends the computer into limp home mode and causes performance issues. I can't tell right away that this has happened because the MIL was already on for the emissions fault, which means I can't be sure what driving conditions I was in when the misfire occurred. The same shops were looking into the misfire and the engine would not misfire at all while they had it. I'd really like to take care of the emissions issue so I might have another clue to add for solving the misfire.
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I am replacing my oil pump (1998 4.0L), would appreciate any help regarding priming the new pump. I'm a little hesitant to pull the distributor, is there an easy way to do this? Thanks Roger -
I have recently installed a rebuilt AX15 in my 98 TJ. From the beginning it has been difficult to shift into 2nd and 4th gears. By difficult I mean it requires some strength to pull to engage as if there is a bungee cord opposing the direction I'm pulling. It will engage each time and does not have any noises associated with these shifts. It occurs only while shifting up into these gears. It shifts into all others fine and down shifts into them fine as well. If I have shifted into one of the gears I can shift back into it with no difficulty if I down/up shift momentarily the shift back. The shop I got it from is blaming it on the fact that I used 75W-90 oil at first. They recommended I switch to 5W-30 synthetic and change the oil a couple times to get the gear oil off the syncros. I have since done so with no effect. The local mopar dealer mechanic thinks it is a bent shift rail or fork. Does anyone have any ideas on this? I want to know if it will break in and get better or if I need to tear it down and inspect the parts for bends? -
My TJ airbag light has been on for some time and the cruise control no longer works. I assume they're related, but I'm not sure. Some corners of the internet say the clock spring needs to be replaced. I know CC works with manifold vacuum. I tried to trace the vacuum lines to look for abraded hoses or leak points and found none, but there are a lot of lines running a lot of directions - is there a common place they leak? Can this be diagnosed at home? Or is it best to have the dealer plug in their diagnostic computer? Is the airbag REALLY safe after the battery is disconnected for a few minutes? Or is it best to let the pros handle this one of it is the clock spring? -
After watching your videos I decided to look at a 1998 Jeep TJ Wrangler. My concern since i have no knowledge of the vehicle is how to scrutinize and assure it is a sound vehicle. Background on the vehicle: 1) The Jeep has a new 2.5 4-cylinder in it, not sure what that means, whether a rebuild or remanufactured? 2) Has 138,000 miles, 5 speed manual no mention in ad of new transmission parts. 3) 1998 black Jeep Wrangler TJ 2.5 with a 5 speed manual with 3,000 miles on the new motor. New motor put in over the summer (has receipts). 4) 4-inch suspension lift, 1.25 inch JKS body lift+ 1 inch motor mount lift 5) Swing out tire carrier bumper 6) Aftermarket stereo and speakers 7) Aftermarket rims and 31x 10.5 inch tires+ full size spare 8) Aftermarket adjustable track bar 9) Newer shocks and steering stabilizer 10) Aftermarket sway bar links 11) Heavy duty lower front control arms 12) Cold air intake 13) Windshield mounted fog lights 14) Bumper fog lights 15) Custom differential guard 16) Full skid plates 17) Custom lockable center console 18) Tinted turn signals and tail lights (to legal specs.) 19) New water pump, spark plugs, hoses, coolant flush and all new gaskets and seals put in with new motor 20) Hardtop with tint 21) Undercoated frame (prevents rust) 22) Clean title! 23) Paint on hood is chipping a bit but mechanically everything works great. My last question: What aftermarket products are critical to inspect for damage? I noticed a MOAB sticker on back window and I'm not very astute or have much knowledge on what to look for! Any guidance would be greatly appreciated! Papaobewon -
Hello All: I have a 2003 Wrangler Rubicon SWB with many mods for wheeling - (6" Full Traction LA suspension/new wheels/35"Toyo MT etc.etc). She is very heavy. I am the original owner and try to keep my truck mint, although I do occasionally wheel it aggressively. She has 35,000 miles on the odometer and since I am very safety aware, I think it is time for new brakes. (The brakes on this truck are the original factory brakes/pads etc.) She doesn't seem to stop as well as she used to - there is too much fade - although the pedal is strong and I had everything checked out (bleed lines etc.) by my dealer in December. I'm just not comfortable on the Highway at 55 mph or so with the thought of a quick stop with a 4600lb brick that doesn't stop like she used to. So I am thinking of doing a full replacement with EBC rotors and pads. What else do I need to replace if I go this route? Remember everything is factory original and never replaced! Many thanks for your thoughts and suggestions, Joe Mac
