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Showing results for tags 'XJ Cherokee'.
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Hi to all, Hoping to get a little guidance! I recently completed a rebuild of the AX15 with a master rebuild kit which was uneventful. When it was completed and bench tested, it shifted rather smoothly into all gears, except reverse. It took a few tries each time, but the reverse gear would engage and the output shaft would spin in the opposite direction with no issues once it's engaged. Having read a lot about difficult shifting just after a rebuild, we thought little of it and installed it in the car. Now, we are still having the same issue, but worse. The transmission won't at all shift into reverse, and feels as if something is blocking it. There's no grinding or partial engagement of the reverse idler gear whatsoever. Even with all but the most extreme force, it still feels like there's a hard stop just in front of the reverse range. We managed to force it into reverse (luck?) maybe twice since it's been installed in the car, and it moves the car beautifully backwards with no noise, clunking, grinding, or popping, but as soon as it's returned to neutral, the same issue occurs again. We took it out for a test drive and let things get nice and warm, and it shifts wonderfully into all 5 forward gears, but the reverse is still absent. Any ideas what could be going on? Do I have to drop the transmission? The shifter isn't binding on/hitting the body or console as we've removed all that and it had no difference. ? Here's a video of the issue. Thanks in advance for any advice. InShot_20180312_025446985.mp4 -
So I replaced the head assembly, rods, lifters, cam, timing chain, etc. Everything except the pistons basically. I took it to a mechanic at first but after taking it apart e decided he didn't want to work on it. I've put it back together without any left over parts. I know the cam timing is ok, I lined up the dots on the sprockets (see photo). When I dropped in the distributor I had the oil pump notch just past the 3 o'clock position, and when it dropped in the rotor was at the 6 o'clock position just like the manual says. But to make things even better, when the engine is turning over, every once in awhile a puff of fuel will shoot out of the injector. I replaced the injector, same thing. The only thing I am not sure of being the same as before the work started is 1 orange wire (see photo). It goes to the connector (see photo) but I haven't followed it back any further. Anyone know what it is supposed to be connected to? Is there a wire that is supposed to be screwed to the distributor case? I replaced the distributor because the casing was cracked on the old one.
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First, a little background. I am not a mechanic, nor am I exceptionally knowledgeable about engine repair, and certainly not restoration or replacement. I have a moderate level of experience with automotive repairs and know my way around a toolbox. I have little limitation in finance and time. Now, for my question. Essentially, I'm just wondering how possible/practical it is to fully restore a somewhat older vehicle. And i don't mean an engine rebuild. I mean literally remove every piece and replace it with a new one. Every. Little. Piece. Regardless of price/time constraints, is it possible to do this? To literally have an old body/frame but entirely new vehicle? If so, what are some potential difficulties/issues that may be present? How much would a project like that generally cost? Any tips or recommendations you might have for me as far as brands and such go? Thanks all for taking your time to help me out! *Note: For some context/additional information, I'd like to complete this project on an old 1998 Jeep Cherokee Sport -
97 Cherokee 5 speed 4.0L the fuel pump only works when two of the doors are open. Any suggestions? -
https://goo.gl/images/V9G0Hm I purchased an xj cherokee clutch pedal assembly. The one on the left. I am putting an ax15 in a zj and couldn't get a zj clutch pedal. But was told the xj will work just have to cut the bracket. Need to know how to cut bracket so it works. -
Thanks for the engine information. Ok .... update for today. I'm really not finding a vacuum leak and before I build a smoke machine there's been this gnawing in the back of my mind to check the valve timing. I found this pdf manual http://oljeep.com/JeepEngines.pdf and on page 63 it tell how to check valve timing. So I removed all the plug, it was easier to rotate by removing all the rocker bridges, set up a dial indicator on the #1 intake push rod and checked .... Hmmm the dial moved .010 but I don't see the index mark anywhere (????) ... oh, there it is 3 inches to the left, or 3 inches BTDC ... really???? Guess I'll pull the timing cover and check it out. -
I'm excited to share the latest development from Cummins and Advance Adapters: the R2.8L Cummins Repower diesel crate engine conversion for Jeep® and other 4x4s! At the 2016 SEMA Show, Steve Roberts (Advance Adapters) and Steve Sanders (Cummins Repower program) detailed the engine conversion and discuss highlights of this high tech diesel engine in our HD video interview. In the video, you'll discover why I'm so pleased with this development. The initial Cummins Repower focus is 50-State legal emission status for vehicles through 1999, which will include Jeep® CJ, XJ, ZJ, WJ and vintage vehicles plus Toyota FJ40, Land Rover, vintage Bronco, Scout/Scout II and others. Of course, the Jeep® JK Wrangler is on the radar screen, however, emission legal requirements will be met before releasing a package for the later model range. We're planning a pilot installation of the R2.8L Cummins diesel engine package into the magazine's 1999 XJ Cherokee during 2017. Enough power? In Brazil this modern CRD high-tech diesel engine is fitted into F350 Ford trucks and school buses. Enough fuel efficiency? Stand by, we'll be testing and confirming mileage soon! See the complete article that accompanies the HD video at: http://www.4wdmechanix.com/advance-adapters-and-cummins-2-8l-diesel-engine-conversion-for-jeep/ Go Cummins Repower and Advance Adapters! Moses -
I have attached a few pictures of this transmission I have but I don't know where its from I need help identifying this transmission the only thing I can identify here is the transfer case because it has the sticker in the back its an NP "new process" 249 J This is a manual 4wd transmission I believe its an ax15 transmission but please give me your input as i'm not sure any help is appreciated one more thing from the shape of the bell housing I don't think this came of a Jeep possibly AMC or other but thanks again
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I'm at my wits end troubleshooting my lil 2.5L engine. I googled and found your page from about a year ago. 1990 jeep wrangle 25l engine timing. Today I thought about timing. It misses, like running on only 2 cylinders when at low speed and and only pulling slightly. As I move into mid and upper rpm range it stops missing. I still do not have much acceleration but at least it stops missing. I've check and/or changed every sensor it has. TPS is only rough since I have not gotten my laser tach to work yet. In checking fuel I have only 10 psi so I know that's a problem. This started about a month after the SMOG guy changed the O2 sensor to pass smog. I've check the voltage when hot and it's within spec. I also had massive exhaust gasket leak so I cleaned the surfaces and replace the gasket. I'm a machine mechanic from way back in the Navy so I'm not just a new mechanic. I just can't quite figure this one out. I'll check timing tomorrow. Lowell
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Hi! Moses< How are you? Can you give suggestion how to improve the performance of th jeep xj 2.5 if i install bigger tires ,also what are the things needed. Please advice Thank you. Cheers: Mario Bedayo -
HI! Moses < How are You Happy New Year...Can i ask your recommendation, . What model year cherokee xj that will fit for me for daily driving and sometimes off roading but not extreme. is the mnaul trans is good or automatic ? please advice me Thanks Cheers: Mario Bedayo
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Moses, How are you? im going to ask you some question, i want to use the comp cam 252 is it possible to use the stock lifters push rod and springs? also what is the push rod height ? 9.639 is ok?, im just asking again your advice, i will follow your advice regarding to collapse the lifter first , pls. also guide how to tighten the rocker arm and the push rod.or is there any article or video that i can follow how to do it. your recommendation .... thanks. Regards to you Mario from the philippines.
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Hi! Moses, how are you? can i ask your advice regarding the tranny swap for my 242 1994 grand cherokee limited awd. i want the manual 5 speed , can do that ? can you please guide me what to do and the parts that in going to buy either a serviceable one , i know i can get it in ebay. my 42RE is going to end and theres no good repair shop here for the tranny 42 RE and it will cost me a big amount . Thank you. Mario Bedayo Philippines
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Is there a manual transmission that can handle an 800 horsepower racing Jeep 4.0L stroker engine? I need a 2- or 3-speed only transmission. -
The magazine had the opportunity to test Pulstar® spark plugs in the 1999 Jeep XJ Cherokee 4.0L. These unique spark plugs received our extensive testing in the XJ Cherokee and the two Honda dirt motorcycles. The plugs work optimally with both gasoline and natural gas engines. The magazine article is available at: http://www.4wdmechanix.com/Testing-the-Enerpulse-Pulstar-Spark-Plugs.html. We will continue testing and discussing these spark plugs at the magazine and these forums! Here are our findings with the XJ Cherokee: 1999 Jeep XJ Cherokee 4x4 4.0L—This inline six-cylinder engine is nearly stock. The addition of a Borla header, Random Technologies' performance catalytic converter and the Hypertech 'Max Energy' program tuning are the only modifications. The vehicle's approximate curb weight of 3,800 pounds with a Warn front winch and an aftermarket ARB front bumper and Warn rear heavy duty bumper. The axles have 4.10:1 ring and pinions to compensate for the 33" diameter tires and a 6-inch long-arm suspension lift. Prior to testing with the Pulstar® spark plugs, this vehicle operated with Bosch spark plugs that burned well with a fully functional ignition and EFI/MPI system. There were no issues with ignition misfire or EFI fuel supply problems, and this engine has normal, uniform compression and cylinder seal. The change to Pulstar® plugs gapped to factory 0.035" was the only change made for this test. We waited for the first tank of fuel to burn through before making comparisons. At that point there were several distinct improvements: 1) Better tip-in throttle response at any road speed and under heavy acceleration. 2) Less throttle needed to sustain normal "cruise" road speeds. 3) Less downshifting on grades with cruise control applied. Acceleration improved with both forced and cruise control downshifts. 4) Distinct improvement in fuel efficiency; approximately one mile per gallon improvement (5.5%) under "city" and "highway" or interstate test conditions. 5) Starts immediate; this engine has always started well. Details and actual spark plug installation coverage can be seen in the HD video: Moses
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My 1987 Cherokee 4.0 liter is misfiring when started but when I have clutch depressed it runs fine. Does any one have any ideas? I think a bad TPS but don't want to throw money at something that won't fix it! -
I have a 1999 jeep cherokee XJ I bought it a month ago and it was lifted already. It has a 4.5 rough country lift. UCA, LCA and track bar are adjustable. I recently had an alignment and replaced UCA forward bushings, re-adjusted all the heim style joints, replaced ball joints and sway bar bushings. My main three current problems: 1) I still have a wheel hop/ gallop in the front at 40-50 mph. Coasting to slow down and it goes away or accelerate through it and it goes away. It was what's considered the death wobble before I inspected, adjusted, replaced things and had an alignment done. Vibe is worse when turning but road condition does not seem to matter as to when the vibration happens. 2) Now the rod end from drivers side that connects to the drag link rubs the steering stabilizer bolt heads and rubs on the passenger side quick disconnect for the sway bar at normal ride height. As well as the quick disconnect welded bracket at max turn. At full front suspension droop I can not turn right because same rod end contacts about half the sway bar quick disconnect and stops all motion of me turning the wheel to the right. I will attaché a few pictures to help. 3) My driver's side "frame" piece moves separate from radiator support beam... If that makes sense. The steering box does not flex separately from the wall and the aluminum bracket behind it is intact. I have seen a track bar brace that connects at the drop bracket and goes under the oil pan to passenger side. Do you recommend one brand over another to alleviate this issue? And or does anyone still make a steering box brace that connects the steering box at the drop arm to the passenger side via a brace? I assume this and the steering linkage rubbing is where the continued wheel bounce is coming from. I have been in contact with a few local shops and all either try and sell me what they personally prefer and or their shop carries or don't seem to know how to help. The first two are at full droop suspension. Rest are normal ride height. -
I have a 1996 Jeep Cherokee 1996 stroker six with these specification: - High compression pistons - CompCams camshaft #68-239-4 with lifters, valve springs, retainers, etc. - Three-into-one header Currently, I have a Hypertech program with a Unichip rev limiter module on the way. I want the most powerful computer and am considering these options: Superchips - SCT Computer - Jet Performance Stage 2 module Which is the strongest module?
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Has anyone used the Novak conversion kit to install a 5.3 LS into an XJ Cherokee? They have the whole package including updating the wiring harness and GM computer along with the XJ computer. -
Which is better, a 15 inch wheel or a 16 in wheel on an XJ assuming the tire diameter is the same? Thanks sparky
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This topic is new member Sparky1's question...I moved the discussion here, as this is a Jeep XJ Cherokee topic that will be of interest to many...Thanks for participating at the forums, Sparky1, we look forward to your involvement! In response to Sparky1's original question (in the next post), I haven't done this swap, but here's what I do know...The later model Jeep vehicles feature a security/anti-theft interlock system that ties the steering column/key functions to the powertrain management system. This matches the vehicle's VIN to the key lock mechanism, actually useful. When I toyed with the idea of a Liberty diesel engine swap into our 1999 XJ Cherokee (like your XJ), informed sources at Chrysler shared that this could only be done with a PCM match to the steering column. The standard route was to install the recycled engine, its PCM and the steering column from the same donor vehicle. So, I would suspect that the JK Wrangler steering column has ties to its PCM, and the PCM for a JK would drive a 3.8L or 3.6L V-6, not your inline 4.0L Jeep six. That's what I do know, others may have more insight here... As a footnote, I also know that the late JK Wrangler steering wheel is very cool! Moses
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Hi 4WD Mechanix, I love the site and am so happy you are fielding questions from common folk like me! Your troubleshooting guide for the 2.5L TBI helped me turn my limping MJ into a reliable daily driver! Current set-up: 1987 MJ, 2.5L with AX-4 manual transmission, 2WD. Future: I want to convert to the multi-port FI. I have all the equipment, ECU, harness, manifold, etc., from a donor engine. Question: Do I need to change the RENIX flywheel to the MPFI flywheel? I have the MPFI flywheel on my work bench (the RENIX is in the truck), but whether the flywheel needs to be change will affect when I do the various upgrades. A flywheel change requires me pulling the engine. Thanks again! -
I have a 1994 Jeep XJ Cherokee with an AX5 manual transmission and 2.5L four-cylinder engine. I would like to convert to an automatic transmission and have a 1989 XJ Cherokee donor vehicle with an automatic. The '94 XJ has 3.73 axles, was originally a 2x4, now is a 4x4, auto trans is an AW4. The '89 XJ Cherokee is a 4.0L six. Both 4x4s have the NP231 transfer case. Is this even possible to do the swap on? I do have the complete donor XJ all electronics as well. Manual in the '94 came from an '85 2.8L, the axles came from an '86 2.5L, the transfer case came from a '87 4.0L all manual trans equipped. So is this swap even possible to accomplish? David -
Recently, I've found time to catch up on some XJ Cherokee care. Our '99 had issues with the power window/door lock system, the A/C dash panel air flow and the "No Bus" gauge drop-off problem. Each of these problems is common to the XJ Cherokees and TJ Wranglers, making forums all over the internet. On our Cherokee, I worked through the troubleshooting and solutions for each. If your Jeep XJ Cherokee or TJ Wrangler is experiencing erratic dash panel air flow with the heater or A/C controls set to different positions, you'll want to check out this new article at the magazine: http://www.4wdmechanix.com/How-to-Jeep-XJ-Cherokee-Air-Conditioning-Fix.html. Another symptom to consider is the cruise control and the A/C and heater panel settings not working when you're climbing a grade with the Jeep. I made the Chrysler TSB #24-12-99 available as a PDF download. This is one cure, but it did not apply in our case... If your power windows, door locks and remote door lock control are not operating properly, you'll want to see my recent article: http://www.4wdmechanix.com/How-to-Jeep-Cherokee-Power-Window-and-Door-Lock-Switch-Replacement.html. This includes troubleshooting symptoms and the actual replacement of a door switch module. If your dash instruments suddenly drop-off to zero with the engine running or on the road, or if the "No Bus" signal appears at the instrument panel with erratic gauge activity, you may have the electrical connector issue that I address in the article: http://www.4wdmechanix.com/How-to-XJ-Cherokee-Erratic-Gauges-Fix.html. This how-to goes into detail about the problem, the parts involved and the fix, including soldering a new plug and wires into the dash panel circuit. I even included a PDF of the Chrysler/Jeep TSB #08-15-99 on this problem for both the Jeep XJ Cherokee and TJ Wrangler. Having troubles in these areas? Check out the three new articles at the magazine. Another issue is the rear door latch and having to press the outside door release button with great force to open the door. Possible remedy: There is a slot on the rear facing edge of the door that has an adjustable slide for the door button. Work the button and watch this lever move. You can loosen the Torx screw and move the lever/button adjuster to allow for a full throw of the outside handle button when you press the button. This and some white lithium spray lube at pivot points of the latch mechanisms can have your "defective" rear door latches functioning as new! Moses
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Your advise has been very valuable in narrowing my search for a used CJ or YJ. Now I find myself also interested in Cherokees although I am not sure if I like the unibody platform. Again you have helped me narrow my search as far as what years to consider and which ones to avoid. I do have another question: What is the difference between the Cherokee and the Grand Cherokee other than the obvious body style and trim? Also, I am glad to see the forum expanding to include Nissan because while looking at Cherokees I have found myself considering a used Pathfinder. As always your insight and experience would be most appreciated. Thanks for a great magazine! Rich R.
