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Found 31 results

  1. Been talking about stroking the 242 block I got last year for a while now, but I got tied up with building my XJ and fixing some suspension "over build" (it had 9" of lift) issues with the TJ I bought last summer. Also, got on the idea of a SBC or SBF swap for a while. Now that I've pretty much tapped my "Jeep savings", I'm back to building the extra 4.0L with money being tight for the project. I read in Moses' articles that just adding the 258 crankshaft with a 242 rebuild will also do wonders. Will I really see any reasonable gains or should I just put the money elsewhere instead of getting the 258 crank? I want to keep the build below $2k. That should be enough for machining, master rebuild kit, valvetrain, etc. Also, I would like to throw a clutch in there too. I scraped pretty much everything from the 242 tear down, but the block, crank, and the head is bare. The motor was in a salvage yard and the valves were rusty. Thanks, Wayman
  2. Hello All: I have a 2003 Wrangler Rubicon SWB with many mods for wheeling - (6" Full Traction LA suspension/new wheels/35"Toyo MT etc.etc). She is very heavy. I am the original owner and try to keep my truck mint, although I do occasionally wheel it aggressively. She has 35,000 miles on the odometer and since I am very safety aware, I think it is time for new brakes. (The brakes on this truck are the original factory brakes/pads etc.) She doesn't seem to stop as well as she used to - there is too much fade - although the pedal is strong and I had everything checked out (bleed lines etc.) by my dealer in December. I'm just not comfortable on the Highway at 55 mph or so with the thought of a quick stop with a 4600lb brick that doesn't stop like she used to. So I am thinking of doing a full replacement with EBC rotors and pads. What else do I need to replace if I go this route? Remember everything is factory original and never replaced! Many thanks for your thoughts and suggestions, Joe Mac
  3. At the magazine, building a Jeep inline 4.0L six with a 4.2L crankshaft (stroker motor) is very popular. Tony Hewes (Hewes Performance, Reno, Nevada) and I did a series of HD videos and shared our favorite components for a 4.6L (0.030" overbore with the 4.2L crankshaft) stroker motor build for combined street and trail use. Since then, we have received a lot of feedback and continue to address the tuning and camshaft requirements of these engines. From our testing, the pre-coil pack (1998 TJ and older 4.0L) engines with older style injectors do very well with Ford 5.0L V-8 24-pound injectors—no emission quirks, "Engine Check" lights or other issues when tuned correctly. Ford part number F1TE-D5A or Bosch number 280 150 947 is the specific injector type. These engines work well with the 252H CompCams grind camshaft and 8.7:1 compression. Later, 1999-up TJ Wrangler and 2000-2001 Cherokee engines with coil-pack ignition have square injector connector plugs. For these engines, stroker builders use the Dodge Ram 5.9L V-8 injectors listed for 2000-up with coil pack. This is the injector that HESCO calls a "24-pound/hour”. HESCO supplies rebuilt GB injectors, although new Mopar OEM part numbers are available. This injector also crosses over to the aftermarket Bosch Fuel Injector #62005 offered at Summit Racing for a significant price per injector. Here is the GB website: http://www.gbreman.com/index.html. The 5.9L Ram truck V-8 application is the GB812-12132 injectors for engines to 2003. I researched further and came up with the OEM 5.9L Mopar V-8 injector part number: 53031740AA. (I used 2001 as a clear year for coil-pack and square injector plug.) This OEM Mopar injector is 23.61 pound/hour rated at 43.5 PSI. This is a "high impedance" injector design with a square plug socket. The OEM injector on a coil-pack engine rates 22.5 pounds/hour at 49.0 PSI fuel pressure, which may work okay on a coil pack stroker engine unless the cylinder head, compression or camshaft/head combination is an issue for the PCM. Fuel rail pressure of 49.2 +/- 2 PSI should be confirmed by factory testing method. Fuel Rail Pressure Test.pdf This PDF is instructional for running fuel rail pressure tests on Jeep MPI. This is the 1997-up XJ Cherokee and TJ Wrangler type with fuel tank mounted pressure regulator and single-rail injection. In the late '90s, my engineer friends, Jeep performance enthusiasts at Mopar, were talking about 5.9L Mopar V-8 injectors for 4.0L/4.6L stroker engine builds. This has apparently been a route to go, with a 24-pound/hour injector rating. I researched the Jeep ZJ Grand Cherokee 5.2L/5.9L V-8 injectors from the mid-‘90s: 1995 Jeep 5.2 ZJ/Dodge 5.9L V-8 injectors are Part #53030262 and rated to flow 24.6-pound/hour at 39 PSI. By 1996, the Jeep V-8 injectors rated 23.2 pounds at 49 PSI. The 1995 Mopar injectors (24.6#/hour @ 39 PSI) could be an alternative to the 302 Ford injectors for a stroker build in a 1991-95 Jeep 4.0L MPI chassis application if the engine demands that kind of flow. Summing it up, if GB is accurate, using the right injector cores and parts for this application, HESCO is marketing a “24-pound/hour @ 43.5 PSI injector for a stroker inline six. A caution here is that the '97-up Jeep TJ Wrangler and XJ Cherokee have a 49.2 +/- 5 PSI rail pressure. Flow could be higher than 24 pounds/hour at this 49.2 +/- 5 PSI rail pressure. If the GB812-12132 injector is okay for a coil pack later engine with the later cylinder head casting, the GB812-12132 square plug injector would be the choice for later coil-pack engines. There are a number of sources for these GB injectors. We're still testing the CompCams 252H camshaft in a later 4.0L (1999-up TJ Wrangler/2000-up XJ Cherokee) engine with the redesigned head and coil pack ignition. Tony and I will update on these late 4.0L/stroker engines. The pre-'99 stroker engines and stock PCMs have worked well with this camshaft grind. We're consulting with CompCams about a possible new grind for later coil-pack ignition stroker engines. The 1997-up TJ Wrangler and Cherokees with the tank-mounted fuel regulator use higher fuel pump/line pressure. I would stick with Mopar 53030262 or Ford 302 V-8 type injectors* on the 1997-98 TJ Wranglers and Cherokees through 1999 (without the coil pack system). *Footnote: 24-pound 302 5.0L V-8 injectors fit the pre-coil pack engines; coil pack engine injectors have a square plug connector. Below are some useful links and comments at the magazine site: http://www.4wdmechanix.com/Jeep-Fuel-Pressure-Requirements.html [i detail pressure ratings and designs for Jeep engines equipped with MPI/EFI. 1997-up single rail systems with tank-mounted pressure regulator are higher pressure, running rail/injector pressures typically around 49.2 PSI +/- 2 PSI. This includes the coil pack engines with square wire plug injectors.] http://www.4wdmechanix.com/YJ-&-TJ-Jeep-Stroker-Six-Upgrade.html http://www.4wdmechanix.com/Jeep-TBI-&-MPI-Advanced-Troubleshooting.html [Overview of OEM tuning methods and factory diagnostic tools required.] http://www.4wdmechanix.com/Vlog-Why-Build-a-Jeep-4.6L-Stroker-Inline-Six.html [Video vlog comments.] http://www.4wdmechanix.com/How-to-Tuning-the-Fuel-Injected-Jeep-Inline-Six-Stroker-Motor.html http://users.erols.com/srweiss/tableifc.htm [A useful third-party website for every popular OEM fuel injector’s flow ratings.] http://www.4wdmechanix.com/Vlog-Road-Testing-Jeep-4.6L-Stroker-Inline-Six.html [My video comments on Brent H.’s Cherokee 4.6L build and its drivability. This is a video vlog plus a list of key components used in this Hewes Performance buildup for a 1998 Jeep XJ Cherokee chassis.] Of course, there’s also the entire 4.6L Tony Hewes interview series of HD videos, six individual videos covering the build of a stroker inline six-cylinder Jeep engine! Moses
  4. Another pre-forum, Q&A exchange with Jason Logan (forum member JayDLogan) is useful to those installing a new clutch. Jason has concerns about which type of release bearing to use. The discussion continues here at the forum:: Jason: Hello Moses! Hope I am not bombarding you with questions? I have sent to you a photo of two release bearings for my 1999 jeep 4.0L clutch assembly. Both are brand new. Which release bearing should I use? The one on the left is a composite (plastic)/steel design while the other one on the right is full cast (original design) . Thanks for any information you can give me! Luk is at left; OEM iron casting is at right. Click on photo to enlarge. Moses: Both release bearings work and appear to fit the same way, right? I’m drawn to the cast item at right in the photo you sent. Unless there is interference or a stack height problem, either should work. Match-up to the OEM would be advisable…The composite looks like a possible weight savings and maybe an NVH (noise-vibration-harshness) update. Jason: The composite/ plastic bearing came with the Luk Pro Gold clutch kit. I was apprehensive to use this new bearing because of its construction. I talked to Luk technical department and they said that the composite would not hang up on the bearing retainer if there was any signs of wear. They also told me that it does not require grease at the bearing retainer friction points. The cast release bearing is from mopar and I think I am going to install that one since it is a direct replacement from the original. I thought I would ask you to see if there was a better version of the original! Thanks again! Moses: I understand Luk’s approach, and that may be a perfectly good design—and improvement. It’s not earthshattering either way, as each design has its merits…There is a larger concern with the TJ Wrangler clutch assembly and release bearing selection: stack height of the clutch and bearing. The master cylinder for the clutch has only so much travel, and the location of the slave cylinder determines the amount of clutch release travel. These clutches are "self adjusting", and the release bearing and arm must be positioned correctly to allow full clutch travel and compensate for disk wear over time. Concerns include the flywheel face (resurfacing the flywheel affects the stack height relationship to the bellhousing); the clutch disk thickness and pressure plate height; and the release bearing's yoke flanges-to-bearing face height. The Luk and OEM bearings appear to have the same flange heights, and that would be my bigger concern...Moses
  5. Hey Moses! Hope you can help me once again. I finished getting my thrust clearances for first (.017"), Second (.006) and third (.003-.004). what I noticed when checking the third clearance is that I have a low spot (tight spot). I can get .003" all the way around but when I go up to .004 it will fit all the way around except in one spot. I am not sure what is going on here. I have used the original snap ring and it fits snug. Because of the splines, it should have pressed on straight. To rectify the problem, I repressed it again (with snap ring in place being careful not to press snap ring) but it did not help. Repressing it only brought it closer to minimum tolerances. Snap ring still fits snug even after repressing it. Is this something to worry about and if so what can I do to rectify it? Have you experienced this before? Before repressing I had .006-.008 (with low spot) and after I have .003-.004 (with low spot). Hope this helps! Jason
  6. Moses, I know your a hardcore 4.0L, especially stroking one, kinda of guy, but I hear far to many folks say that the AX-15 can not handle V8 (300hp, 300 ft lbs +/-) over time...but some say it can. Would like some input from the "Jeep God" himself. Seems other forums are just opinon. Got a lot of dirt track friends with access to cheap SBC's, Ford 302's and such. Thanks again.
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