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  1. I own a 1995 Jeep Wrangler YJ 4.0L just got it reassembled after repainting I'm having 1 issue it's starting hard I replaced the iac valve no change when it starts firing it only sounds like a few cylinders until it warms up i have to keep my foot on the throttle slightly it sometimes back fires but once it's warm it runs perfectly fine. I don't have a vapor canister in it cause it got lost could that be my issue?
  2. Happy Thanksgiving to all! I've posted before that my CJ-7 has a Cherokee 4.0L in it, but it's not really that simple Here is the history as I know it or can guess from some evidence: 1. Originally a 258/4.2L straight six with the FrankenCarb--this one was sold in California, so I'm sure it was extra-special. 2. MOPAR EFI kit added to the 4.2L. It seems this addition happened sometime after 2000, as the MOPAR labels for the kit have a 2000 copyright on them. I learned from the shop that did most of the work on this Jeep that the lady I bought it from purchased it sometime around 2001. It was owned by 1 family prior to that (1983-2000?). I suspect the Skyjacker lift and sketchy paint job happened about the same time to make it ready to sell. 3. The 4.2L finally gave up in 2014. This engine was replaced with a junkyard 1995 Cherokee 4.0L last May; engine had about 155K on it at that time. I never really knew which version of the MOPAR EFI kit I had, OBDI (with fuel return line) or OBDII from the newer models (returnless). There was also the option that they pulled a complete 1995 engine including the EFI and junked the old MOPAR kit. I just didn't really know. I've done some more research and taken some pics to see if anyone can confirm what I've come to believe. It seems like my system matches the pictures I've seen of a single rail EFI system. That would mean it is: 1. 1997 and newer 2. Returnless 3. OBDII I mostly ask these questions because I've been looking at performance options for whenever I'm forced to rebuild this engine. I really think I want to leave a Jeep engine in there, as opposed to a small block Chevy, for example. It seems like most systems (supercharger, programmers, etc.) are dependent upon the OBDI VS. OBDII distinction. With a 1995 engine, I wasn't sure which items I should be looking at. Assuming this is a 1997 and newer-style EFI kit, I assume I should only look for performance items for the newer model engines, correct? I don't think there was much other than heads (I have the supposedly better casting) that varied in those mid 1990's engines, other than the EFI/PCM. 1. Can I conclusively say this is a returnless/1997 and newer EFI kit? 2. Is this the OBDI/OBDII port I'm showing in the picture? It is about 8" down the main wire harness from the MOPAR EFI kit PCM. Regards, Case
  3. Members and Guests...We've had some great discussion on rebuilding the popular Aisin AX15 transmission, and my 'how-to' rebuild rental at Vimeo On Demand (http://www.vimeo.com/ondemand/ax15rebuild) has received solid feedback as a resource for shops and DIY level techs! I'm pleased to see many are able to successfully rebuild and thoroughly restore the AX15, made popular in 1989-1999 model year Jeep vehicles with the 4.0L engine. The AX15 transmission rebuild coverage and our discussion here at these forums also serve other applications of the AX15, including the Dodge Dakota, some Toyota truck models (and performance car applications) plus Isuzu and GM use. There are, however, instances when a transmission is simply not rebuildable. You do the teardown, follow my inspection guidelines or a factory shop manual, and discover that the wear exceeds any reasonable parts replacement costs...In these cases, we do have an outlet and sensible alternative: Advance Adapters and a new AX15 transmission! Note: Many owners have discovered that a "good used" transmission is an oxymoron for an off-road 4x4 vehicle that gets oversized tires and a lot of shifting either off-pavement or in city traffic. I'm not an advocate of buying "good used" unless you know the history of the donor vehicle. Any 1989-99 Jeep 4x4 transmission has seen more than enough use and is a candidate for my "blueprint rebuild" or a complete replacement. "Good used" can simply translate to "definitely used"! In the day, a BW T-18 or T-98, a GM SM420 or SM465, a New Process NP435 or other commercial grade, iron case "truck" transmissions (or the more contemporary NV4500 or NV5600) were often still in serviceable condition after the vehicle expired. That will not be the case with a used, higher mileage AX15 transmission, it will not provide long or reliable service as a high mileage used purchase. Optimistically, such a "core" might be rebuildable. I have worked closely with Advance Adapters' full line of transmission to transfer case adapters, Atlas transfer cases and other products for decades now. (We can thank Advance Adapters for its support at the magazine and these forums, too!) For many owners, the fatigue and normal wear of a powertrain provides the incentive for unique and popular upgrading of a 4x4 powertrain. In that arena, the Aisin AX15 has become the contemporary transmission of choice for stock 4.0L restorations and even swaps of moderate horsepower V-8 power into a Jeep 4x4 chassis. For horsepower to the 275-300 range (like an LS3 or a 4.6L Jeep inline six stroker) plus a useful overdrive gear, I consider a freshly and properly rebuilt AX15 as a prime candidate for a street/trail "build". These swaps or buildups do require either a rebuilt or new Aisin AX15. This contemporary transmission has also become the replacement for the later, expensive to rebuild 6-speed Jeep TJ Wrangler transmissions. Yes, a brand new AX15 transmission, ready for bolt-in replacement in Jeep and many Dodge Dakota, Toyota and Isuzu applications! These units are close ratio five-speeds (5th overdrive) that can bring new life into a higher mileage vehicle. They also deliver a desirable level of contemporary torque and stamina for moderate horsepower V-8 transplants where an overdrive is desirable. (These units even look great, click on these photos!) The exciting news is that you have the option of buying a new Aisin AX15. These units, available through Advance Adapters (a direct Aisin distributor), provide all of the legendary features and reliability found in new Jeep 4x4s from the Jeep YJ/TJ and XJ Cherokee era (or Dodge Dakota 3.9 V-6 models and other AX15 applications). Advance Adapters has a long reputation for serving the 4WD community, whether sponsoring enthusiast runs at Moab, Utah or supporting the off-road racing community. Advance Adapters maintains this approach with the pricing of these new Aisin AX15 transmissions. So, if your AX15 is either too worn for rebuilding or you're building a contemporary Jeep 4x4 project for the street/trail or off-road use, consider the Advance Adapters AX15 option! For more details, visit the Advance Adapters website at: http://www.AdvanceAdapters.com! Moses
  4. Hi, Just swapped out my AX15 transmission on my 97 Jeep Wrangler. After I completed the job, with the engine off, I was able to shift through the gears without issue. I pressed the clutch pedal and it was easy the first few times then became extremely stiff. I removed the external slave cylinder from the bell housing and manually pushed in the clutch fork with my finger. The fork moved forward easily, then I heard something fall inside the bell housing. I pulled the tranny back off and found the clutch fork retaining clip had fallen off. I proceeded to put it back in place ensuring it was secured. After attaching the tranny back on, I tested the clutch pedal which appeared to operate normally (engine off) as well as ensuring I could shift through the gears without issue. I then continued with attaching the rest of the harnesses, transfer case, etc.. I fired up the engine and heard a knocking sound which appeared to be coming from the external slave cylinder area. As I depressed the clutch, the knocking stopped. I turned off the engine, removed the slave cylinder and had my wife press on the clutch pedal. It became stiff again. I pulled the transmission again and the clutch fork retaining clip was still secured. This is where I have left off for the night. I plan on bleeding the master / slave cylinder system tomorrow and see if that fixes the issue with the stiff clutch pedal. Some questions: 1) How far should I be able to press in the clutch fork manually with the external slave cylinder removed from the bell housing? 2) Should the clutch fork return after being depressed manually (like a spring) with the external slave cylinder removed from the bell housing (mine didn't. After pressing on the clutch fork, it remained in the position I had pushed it to). 2) Should the clutch pedal move freely with the external slave cylinder removed from the bell housing? 3) Could it be the throw-out bearing? It appears to be ok from visual inspection, it slides along the transmission shaft easily, the springs are all intact. Any suggestions would be welcomed. Thanks.
  5. I have a 95 YJ 4 litre let's running extra rich. It will foul out the spark plugs with carbon fouling within a few minutes. Let me start at the beginning, I bought this Jeep running terrible. I was told it had a dead battery while jump starting they hooked up the cables backwards. I thought this was probably true due to the fact that both alternator fuses were blown. I drove it nine miles home and went through over 4 gallons of gas. Most of that ran out the tailpipe or was dumped into the crankcase. The number 5 and 6 injectors we're running fuel anytime the key was in the run position. I diagnose that problem to a burnt PCM. The PCM was sent out to a repair facility and upon return was installed and no start. the light on the dashboard would not even light up. I was told by the repair facility that that was their fault send it back and I would get a replacement. Upon installing the replacement PCM, the engine would start but still running very rich. The injectors no longer run when they're not supposed to. I started doing test procedures according to the Chrysler service manual. Cylinder leak down test shows all cylinders between 12 and 10% leakage. All cylinders 125 to 130 psi compression. Cam position sensor checks out ok crank sensor okay distributor cap rotor wires and plugs all new. timing ok per the book. ignition coil showed a low ohm reading on the primary side so I replaced it. spark is OK MAP sensor is OK idle air control solenoid was sticky so I replaced. Sprayed carburetor cleaner all around intake and didn't show any vacuum leaks. Manifold vacuum on my gauge reads low. About 5 inches at idle and up to 12 to 15 inches when rev up. Pulled the o2 sensor and plugged in a pressure gauge to do back pressure. Shows 1 pound pressure. Doesn't go up when engine revved so catalytic converter doesn't seem to be clogged. Running rich enough that in the three weeks I have been trying to figure this out, the new spark plugs were fouled enough to make hard starting. Since then I have installed fresh spark plugs. It will start and run but terribly rich. It acts like its not timed right, but all that is controlled through the PCM. Every check I do seems to point to the PCM still not being right. I am now one step away from doing the 5 gallons of gas and a match procedure. What in the heck am I missing?
  6. I've owned a 2004 TJ Wrangler Sport for a couple of years now and it has been stalling in 2nd gear the last few weeks. I gave the car to Berwick jeep service centre and all they tell me is that their computer doesn't show them what's causing it and that there is no problem. Has anyone had this issue? i know its not my driving!!!
  7. AMC/Jeep® always leaned forward in both car and utility vehicle designs. By the mid-'80s, the CJ needed a contemporary replacement, a vehicle with wider track for handling and a better highway ride package. The Wrangler emerged just as AMC sold to Chrysler, and the Wrangler and XJ Cherokee were the profit items Mopar wanted! The Wrangler four- and inline six era represents huge growth in the 4WD/SUV market overall, and there are huge numbers of enthusiasts, owners and buyers who can build a "community" at this forum! —Moses Ludel At left is an '87 YJ Wrangler, leaf springs articulating on the rocks! Middle is the Quadra-Coil™-suspension TJ Wrangler Rubicion edition, the engineering and off-road pinnacle of the Wrangler inline four- and six-cylinder era! At right, Moses Ludel's Jeep Owner's Bible, 3rd Edition, covers models through the Wrangler YJ and TJ...
  8. I've been a Jeep enthusiast since 1997. My first Jeep was a 1982 CJ8 Scrambler. One YJ and 4 TJs, the current one being a 2004 Rubicon with 52,000 original miles and trail modified. I have been experiencing the famous P0301 trouble code very intermittently unless it was cold outside, then it was steady. Rain or shine didn't seem to change anything. I live in Minnesota where winters are cold. Started with the obvious tune-up, copper plugs and the coil rail. Battery connections, grounds, injector cleaning and replacement, throttle body cleaning. The works. Could not isolate the misfire. Started chasing wires. No luck. Many live data scanners, no luck. Compression tests and leak down well within spec. Valves also seating and rotating well. Became very frustrating. Pulled the alternator, tested good. The battery tested good ( the first time). Wasn't sure what to do. Finally, the other morning it was -17 degrees F. The Jeep just didn't have the juice to start. Thought that was strange. Rain or shine it always started. Jumped it and went to auto parts store. Dead cell in battery. Thinking back first good freeze, we experienced this and had the same test done. I overlooked the issue and accepted its first passing test. No one on any of these forums makes mention of voltage or battery replacement or testing. Well I replaced the battery. Not a single misfire in a month. I've wasted countless hours diagnosing this misfire, and it ended up being my battery. Turns out they're pretty sensitive to low voltage. Thx for all the info on your site!
  9. Good info, thanks. Here's an odd one I have been trying to figure out for years. I bought the Jeep at 57,000 miles ('97 TJ w/ a 2.5L), and now it has about 200,000. So I am assuming now it's worn out and am just going to swap it out. But, this is what it has done for years: First cold start of the day, it is quiet. After about 30 seconds or a minute of warming up, I can hear a valve clatter/tapping noise starting. It did this until the engine was up to temp, then would go away as long as the engine stayed running. If it sat for a while and cooled off, it would do it again until warmed up. This never impacted the engine's performance or drive ability, so I never really worried about it. But, in the last year of driving it, the noise would appear at about 30 seconds or 1 minute of run time, but would stay once the engine warmed up. It would be quieter once warm, but definitely audible. It almost sounds like a diesel. This Jeep has sat now for about a year and a half, but I am going to revive it this winter, as well as do another build on it. Also plan to swap the engine for something else, but will always be curious as to what was making this noise. When I have a chance, I am going to tear the engine down and see if that shows anything. It definitely doesn't sound like a rod knock, and is coming from the upper part of the engine. So I am assuming it is something in the valvetrain.
  10. In this video discussion, I describe the symptoms of hydraulic clutch linkage leaks in 1987-95 Jeep YJ Wrangler models. Originally part of the Q&A Vlog at the magazine, the viewer's question refers to hard shifting and loss of hydraulic fluid. I share what causes these troubles in this how-to HD video on troubleshooting: Moses
  11. I need some help troubleshooting the possible causes for OBD code P1486 on my 2002 TJ. The MIL has been on for weeks now with this code because I cannot figure out the problem, and three repair shops have not been able to figure it out either. P1486 is a kinked hose in the evaporative emissions system. I have checked the hoses between the charcoal canister and throttle body, etc, and do not find any kinked hoses or hoses with a blockage. The first repair shop thought this was caused by a leak, and did a smoke test but found no leaks. The third shop thought there was a problem with my gas cap, but it was replaced with no change. All of the shops could not find anything conclusive and suggested I go to the Jeep dealer for diagnosis. I have read up on the components of the system and the automatic tests it performs, and if I understand correctly the leak test is the first test run on this system followed by a blockage test. I assume the leak test passed because I do not have a code for a leak, only the kinked hose. Using this assumption I ruled out the leak detection pump needing replacement. Since the hoses were all OK, I decided to forego the trip to the dealer because the charcoal canister and purge solenoid cost less than what the dealer would charge to diagnose for an hour. I replaced the canister and solenoid. When replacing the canister I found one of the hoses was cracked where it attached to the canister so I cut off enough length to get rid of the crack. No other cracks or blockages were found in any of the hoses. The MIL was reset by disconnecting the battery. Three or four days later the MIL was back on with the P1486 code again. I don't know where else to look and would rather not go to the dealer and risk them not finding anything but still paying their diagnostics and labor rates. Any suggestions? The Jeep runs well most of the time, but since the MIL is lit all the time I don't know if there is another problem coming up. This is even more annoying because I am getting an intermittent misfire code about once every two to four weeks which sends the computer into limp home mode and causes performance issues. I can't tell right away that this has happened because the MIL was already on for the emissions fault, which means I can't be sure what driving conditions I was in when the misfire occurred. The same shops were looking into the misfire and the engine would not misfire at all while they had it. I'd really like to take care of the emissions issue so I might have another clue to add for solving the misfire.
  12. I am replacing my oil pump (1998 4.0L), would appreciate any help regarding priming the new pump. I'm a little hesitant to pull the distributor, is there an easy way to do this? Thanks Roger
  13. My TJ has an occasional cylinder 1 misfire indicated by the check engine light and an occasional lurch at highway speed. I have noticed the misfire when cruising at highway speed after driving about 20 minutes and feeling a sudden lurch, or when sitting at a red light idling. The engine runs fine aside from the occasional lurch and running rough at idle. I suspected a sticky lifter so I ran Sea Foam in the oil for about 2k miles and then changed the oil and filled with 10w-40. I never noticed a misfire on the highway after this, but it idles rough at stop lights and the check engine light came back on at a stoplight. It will probably turn off if I drive the highway a few times. Wondering if there's an interim fix to get by another 6 months or year without getting stranded by this thing. It's a 1998 with 250k miles on it, but I'm trying to put off replacing the engine due to the expense and I'm not sure it's worth it on a vehicle this "used". Is there any chance an even heavier weight oil is a temporary fix? Or is this engine shot and needs overhaul or replacement?
  14. I have recently installed a rebuilt AX15 in my 98 TJ. From the beginning it has been difficult to shift into 2nd and 4th gears. By difficult I mean it requires some strength to pull to engage as if there is a bungee cord opposing the direction I'm pulling. It will engage each time and does not have any noises associated with these shifts. It occurs only while shifting up into these gears. It shifts into all others fine and down shifts into them fine as well. If I have shifted into one of the gears I can shift back into it with no difficulty if I down/up shift momentarily the shift back. The shop I got it from is blaming it on the fact that I used 75W-90 oil at first. They recommended I switch to 5W-30 synthetic and change the oil a couple times to get the gear oil off the syncros. I have since done so with no effect. The local mopar dealer mechanic thinks it is a bent shift rail or fork. Does anyone have any ideas on this? I want to know if it will break in and get better or if I need to tear it down and inspect the parts for bends?
  15. Been talking about stroking the 242 block I got last year for a while now, but I got tied up with building my XJ and fixing some suspension "over build" (it had 9" of lift) issues with the TJ I bought last summer. Also, got on the idea of a SBC or SBF swap for a while. Now that I've pretty much tapped my "Jeep savings", I'm back to building the extra 4.0L with money being tight for the project. I read in Moses' articles that just adding the 258 crankshaft with a 242 rebuild will also do wonders. Will I really see any reasonable gains or should I just put the money elsewhere instead of getting the 258 crank? I want to keep the build below $2k. That should be enough for machining, master rebuild kit, valvetrain, etc. Also, I would like to throw a clutch in there too. I scraped pretty much everything from the 242 tear down, but the block, crank, and the head is bare. The motor was in a salvage yard and the valves were rusty. Thanks, Wayman
  16. I am looking at used jeeps and I will be a first time jeep owner. I am interested in CJs or YJs. I want the jeep mostly for hunting and putt-ing around town. As far as engines go, do you think a 4 cyl would be okay for what I want and not get me in trouble in the mountains, or should I just look at the 6 or an 8 cyl? If a 4 would work, what transmission, axle gearing and tire size would you recommend? I have already found the forums to very informative. Thanks. Rich
  17. At the magazine, building a Jeep inline 4.0L six with a 4.2L crankshaft (stroker motor) is very popular. Tony Hewes (Hewes Performance, Reno, Nevada) and I did a series of HD videos and shared our favorite components for a 4.6L (0.030" overbore with the 4.2L crankshaft) stroker motor build for combined street and trail use. Since then, we have received a lot of feedback and continue to address the tuning and camshaft requirements of these engines. From our testing, the pre-coil pack (1998 TJ and older 4.0L) engines with older style injectors do very well with Ford 5.0L V-8 24-pound injectors—no emission quirks, "Engine Check" lights or other issues when tuned correctly. Ford part number F1TE-D5A or Bosch number 280 150 947 is the specific injector type. These engines work well with the 252H CompCams grind camshaft and 8.7:1 compression. Later, 1999-up TJ Wrangler and 2000-2001 Cherokee engines with coil-pack ignition have square injector connector plugs. For these engines, stroker builders use the Dodge Ram 5.9L V-8 injectors listed for 2000-up with coil pack. This is the injector that HESCO calls a "24-pound/hour”. HESCO supplies rebuilt GB injectors, although new Mopar OEM part numbers are available. This injector also crosses over to the aftermarket Bosch Fuel Injector #62005 offered at Summit Racing for a significant price per injector. Here is the GB website: http://www.gbreman.com/index.html. The 5.9L Ram truck V-8 application is the GB812-12132 injectors for engines to 2003. I researched further and came up with the OEM 5.9L Mopar V-8 injector part number: 53031740AA. (I used 2001 as a clear year for coil-pack and square injector plug.) This OEM Mopar injector is 23.61 pound/hour rated at 43.5 PSI. This is a "high impedance" injector design with a square plug socket. The OEM injector on a coil-pack engine rates 22.5 pounds/hour at 49.0 PSI fuel pressure, which may work okay on a coil pack stroker engine unless the cylinder head, compression or camshaft/head combination is an issue for the PCM. Fuel rail pressure of 49.2 +/- 2 PSI should be confirmed by factory testing method. Fuel Rail Pressure Test.pdf This PDF is instructional for running fuel rail pressure tests on Jeep MPI. This is the 1997-up XJ Cherokee and TJ Wrangler type with fuel tank mounted pressure regulator and single-rail injection. In the late '90s, my engineer friends, Jeep performance enthusiasts at Mopar, were talking about 5.9L Mopar V-8 injectors for 4.0L/4.6L stroker engine builds. This has apparently been a route to go, with a 24-pound/hour injector rating. I researched the Jeep ZJ Grand Cherokee 5.2L/5.9L V-8 injectors from the mid-‘90s: 1995 Jeep 5.2 ZJ/Dodge 5.9L V-8 injectors are Part #53030262 and rated to flow 24.6-pound/hour at 39 PSI. By 1996, the Jeep V-8 injectors rated 23.2 pounds at 49 PSI. The 1995 Mopar injectors (24.6#/hour @ 39 PSI) could be an alternative to the 302 Ford injectors for a stroker build in a 1991-95 Jeep 4.0L MPI chassis application if the engine demands that kind of flow. Summing it up, if GB is accurate, using the right injector cores and parts for this application, HESCO is marketing a “24-pound/hour @ 43.5 PSI injector for a stroker inline six. A caution here is that the '97-up Jeep TJ Wrangler and XJ Cherokee have a 49.2 +/- 5 PSI rail pressure. Flow could be higher than 24 pounds/hour at this 49.2 +/- 5 PSI rail pressure. If the GB812-12132 injector is okay for a coil pack later engine with the later cylinder head casting, the GB812-12132 square plug injector would be the choice for later coil-pack engines. There are a number of sources for these GB injectors. We're still testing the CompCams 252H camshaft in a later 4.0L (1999-up TJ Wrangler/2000-up XJ Cherokee) engine with the redesigned head and coil pack ignition. Tony and I will update on these late 4.0L/stroker engines. The pre-'99 stroker engines and stock PCMs have worked well with this camshaft grind. We're consulting with CompCams about a possible new grind for later coil-pack ignition stroker engines. The 1997-up TJ Wrangler and Cherokees with the tank-mounted fuel regulator use higher fuel pump/line pressure. I would stick with Mopar 53030262 or Ford 302 V-8 type injectors* on the 1997-98 TJ Wranglers and Cherokees through 1999 (without the coil pack system). *Footnote: 24-pound 302 5.0L V-8 injectors fit the pre-coil pack engines; coil pack engine injectors have a square plug connector. Below are some useful links and comments at the magazine site: http://www.4wdmechanix.com/Jeep-Fuel-Pressure-Requirements.html [i detail pressure ratings and designs for Jeep engines equipped with MPI/EFI. 1997-up single rail systems with tank-mounted pressure regulator are higher pressure, running rail/injector pressures typically around 49.2 PSI +/- 2 PSI. This includes the coil pack engines with square wire plug injectors.] http://www.4wdmechanix.com/YJ-&-TJ-Jeep-Stroker-Six-Upgrade.html http://www.4wdmechanix.com/Jeep-TBI-&-MPI-Advanced-Troubleshooting.html [Overview of OEM tuning methods and factory diagnostic tools required.] http://www.4wdmechanix.com/Vlog-Why-Build-a-Jeep-4.6L-Stroker-Inline-Six.html [Video vlog comments.] http://www.4wdmechanix.com/How-to-Tuning-the-Fuel-Injected-Jeep-Inline-Six-Stroker-Motor.html http://users.erols.com/srweiss/tableifc.htm [A useful third-party website for every popular OEM fuel injector’s flow ratings.] http://www.4wdmechanix.com/Vlog-Road-Testing-Jeep-4.6L-Stroker-Inline-Six.html [My video comments on Brent H.’s Cherokee 4.6L build and its drivability. This is a video vlog plus a list of key components used in this Hewes Performance buildup for a 1998 Jeep XJ Cherokee chassis.] Of course, there’s also the entire 4.6L Tony Hewes interview series of HD videos, six individual videos covering the build of a stroker inline six-cylinder Jeep engine! Moses
  18. Another pre-forum, Q&A exchange with Jason Logan (forum member JayDLogan) is useful to those installing a new clutch. Jason has concerns about which type of release bearing to use. The discussion continues here at the forum:: Jason: Hello Moses! Hope I am not bombarding you with questions? I have sent to you a photo of two release bearings for my 1999 jeep 4.0L clutch assembly. Both are brand new. Which release bearing should I use? The one on the left is a composite (plastic)/steel design while the other one on the right is full cast (original design) . Thanks for any information you can give me! Luk is at left; OEM iron casting is at right. Click on photo to enlarge. Moses: Both release bearings work and appear to fit the same way, right? I’m drawn to the cast item at right in the photo you sent. Unless there is interference or a stack height problem, either should work. Match-up to the OEM would be advisable…The composite looks like a possible weight savings and maybe an NVH (noise-vibration-harshness) update. Jason: The composite/ plastic bearing came with the Luk Pro Gold clutch kit. I was apprehensive to use this new bearing because of its construction. I talked to Luk technical department and they said that the composite would not hang up on the bearing retainer if there was any signs of wear. They also told me that it does not require grease at the bearing retainer friction points. The cast release bearing is from mopar and I think I am going to install that one since it is a direct replacement from the original. I thought I would ask you to see if there was a better version of the original! Thanks again! Moses: I understand Luk’s approach, and that may be a perfectly good design—and improvement. It’s not earthshattering either way, as each design has its merits…There is a larger concern with the TJ Wrangler clutch assembly and release bearing selection: stack height of the clutch and bearing. The master cylinder for the clutch has only so much travel, and the location of the slave cylinder determines the amount of clutch release travel. These clutches are "self adjusting", and the release bearing and arm must be positioned correctly to allow full clutch travel and compensate for disk wear over time. Concerns include the flywheel face (resurfacing the flywheel affects the stack height relationship to the bellhousing); the clutch disk thickness and pressure plate height; and the release bearing's yoke flanges-to-bearing face height. The Luk and OEM bearings appear to have the same flange heights, and that would be my bigger concern...Moses
  19. I have viewed you webpage on the AX-15 rebuild. It is great! I have one question though. Where can you find the selective snap rings. I have been trying to locate one in particular and I have been told that it is discontinued with no replacement. The part number is 83506088. It is for the 3rd and 4th synchronizer and is 1.90mm. Do you have any idea where to source this part at? Any help would be greatly appreciated. This one ring is holding me up on my assembly. Thanks! BG
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