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  1. I recently ordered you book Jeep cj rebuilder's manual. It is due to arrive June 21. I am putting a 1994 yj 4.0 engine into my 1982 cj8. I did this about 20 yrs ago and used hesco harness. They don’t offer this any more but it looks like I can order one from mopar performance with the same part number p5007148 as the old hesco number. Would you have any idea if they are the same. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks, Bill Himelright
  2. Hello I am new to the forum. I have a question for Moses Ludel. Moses my uncle and I have rebuilt a 505 performance 4.6L stroker due to the main, rod and cam bearings worn out prematurely. The motor had roughly 12,000 miles on it before I loss oil pressure and upon tear down noticed the bearings were worn out. We have since rebuilt this motor, utilizing a new scat crank with all new bearings and rings. The block was vatted and did not require the cylinders to be oversized but instead a light hone was done. We chose a complete Comp cam kit (68-232-4) we were not able to use the valve springs from this kit due to the retainers not fitting the valve stems correctly. So we used the existing springs that were used with the 505 Performance cam which was the (266/272-14H). We just fired this motor up yesterday for the break in process and the lifters will not prime up and the top end rattles. In addition we seem to have a timing issue (popping at the exhaust above 1800 rpm). I am kind of at a loss on what our issue is. Any help would be appreciated, Mike
  3. Many Jeep owners need how-to information on checking valve clearances and adjusting the hydraulic valve lifters on the inline 232, 258 and 4.0L six-cylinder engines and the 2.5L Jeep pushrod engine. Between the model years 1971 and 2006, Jeep used these AMC-design 232, 258 and 4.0L sixes and the 2.5L straight four-cylinder engine (1983.5-2002). The hydraulic lifter and valvetrain design has particular needs, especially the valve clearances. When these engines develop valvetrain noise, owners often think a valve adjustment will cure the problem. In each of these AMC/Jeep engines, valve clearances are set during assembly of the engine, and adjustment is not necessary between engine rebuilds. If your engine has developed valvetrain noise, or if you are in the process of rebuilding the engine and need to know more about setting valve clearances, my HD video from 4WD Mechanix Video Network at Vimeo will assist. This video was originally a Q&A Vlog at the magazine, now available for a broader viewing audience through Vimeo. Moses
  4. I am trying to find the cause of a rich running engine, and I'm running out of ideas of what to do next. History: Wife bought me and my son this Jeep sight unseen a few months back for us to fix up. 213,000 miles Initial engine problems identified: Heavy exhaust smell, cracked exhaust manifold, Clogged CCV valves with oil bypass in air filter. Overall the jeep runs great other than the strong exhaust smell and bluish smoke from exhaust pipe. No noticeable power difference from other wrangler 4.0s i've driven. Haven't driven it enough to report on gas mileage. Smell is too harsh to drive for long periods of time, especially with top off. Items I have tested or replaced: 1. New CCV valves, gaskets, vacuum lines, air filter - not getting any blow by since 2. New exhaust manifold 3. New NGK O2 Sensor 4. New spark plugs, oil change, oil filter 5. New vacuum line from fuel pressure regulator to intake manifold 6. Compression Test 1:150 2:155 3:160 4:155 5:160 6:160 7. MAP sensor - tested ok 8. Fuel Pressure - 31 psi 9. Fuel pressure regulator - I believe tested ok, disconnected vacuum line and fuel pressure increase 10psi 10. IAT - tested ok, but had blow by residue so ordered new one to replace (not installed) 11. Thermostat - Engine gets up to around 205 per inside gauge and then drops 10deg or so, so thermostat is opening. Heat is working too good for Florida 12. Injectors - Tested resistance in Ohms and they are within range (13.8-14.4), also disconnected each one individually and there was a noticeable reaction from the engine 13. Vacuum Leaks - Have checked and replaced what was cracked. I don't feel there are any leaks. At this point I'm looking for advice on what to do next: My plan: 1. Replace IAT just because I ordered a new one (arrives tomorrow) 2. New Cap and Wires 3. Check/ replace coolant temp sensors (both) 4. Probably needs a new CAT, but wanted to get the rich running under control before replacement. Maybe the old cat is non functioning and is the cause of this? I don't feel that this is the cause, but not enough experience to know for sure. 5. Replace injectors?? Maybe a bad spray pattern...clog??? Thank you in advance for any guidance!
  5. So I picked up a 2004 XJ 4.0 engine and didn't realize the many differences in the block casting from the older 4.0. It wasn't until I started doing more research on the engine that I realized this, but I did get the engine for a really good price that was too good to pass up. Being that I've already put in some time into this engine, I HAVE to make it work. The first issue that I ran into was with the driver's side motor mount pads on the block. on the older 4.2 and 4.0 engine, the top bolt pad is pushed back about half an inch, and on the XJ 4.0 they are flush with each other. So, I went ahead and cut the top one off about 1/2" and that left enough thread for the bolt. There is some space between the mounting plate and the block, but not much, that I am going to use washers. I'm hoping that will work. For the passenger side, I had to do some cutting on the CJ7 motor mount brackets and a bit on the block due to block webbing interference. Now, the next issue that I am facing is with serpentine accessory drive. I wish that I could just use the 4.0 accessories, but being that I did not get the harness and computer with the replacement 4.0, I am going with the carb setup. So I will be using the 4.2 intake. Unfortunately, the water pumps are different. The older 4.0 engines have the built-in power steering bracket on the pump, so it's not like I could go this route to solve my power steering issues. This is starting to be somewhat of a headache because it is turning out to be a much more involved swap than I thought. I wish that I could just go the fuel injection route and be done with these issues. This would allow me to use all 4.0 accessories without an issue.
  6. Hey I was looking to upgrade my 1998 Jeep Cherokee SE’s ignition system. My intent is to drop the distributor and replace it with a camshaft synchronizer (https://www.morris4x4center.com/dorman-camshaft-synchronizer-oil-pump-drive-includes-sensor-dor-689200.html?gclid=Cj0KCQjwn7j2BRDrARIsAHJkxmw1PJPPvcy8YpgleZmsRNOW_q9zw78_4IXXuvfIbh7uufSEW3rMaaEaAtSzEALw_wcB) , and a RIPP 3.8 High Performance Coil Pack (https://rippmods.com/collections/jeep-wrangler/products/ripp-3-8-high-performance-coil-pack). “Viper Coil Kit” Will this work with my current wiring harness and PCM? or will I have to grab a 99-01 wiring harness and PCM to make this work?
  7. The owner of a 1998 Jeep Wrangler had several questions about the use of a CompCams 252H grind camshaft in a Jeep 4.6L stroker inline six engine build. His engine core is a 1998 Jeep TJ Wrangler 4.0L...Here is our exchange. My comments are in red: Keith M.: I’ve seen some posts, including on Comp Cams’ site, that say the head on the ’98 has different size valve stems than other years and that cams that will work on other years won’t work on this one. I’m pretty confused by what seems to be conflicting and unreliable information. Moses: I’m not clear why there is so much confusion. CompCams should know parts interchangeability and sizing. 4.0L valve stems are available in both standard size and oversize for a given engine, which may account for the confusion. Parts interchangeability spans many years. Exhaust or intake valve head diameters may change while stem diameters remain common. Federal-Mogul is a well-known reman engine industry parts supplier. We’ll use F-M as a reference source: https://www.fme-cat.com/overlays/part-detail.aspx?brand=SP&PartNumber=V-2527&pt=Intake%20Valve&lu=1998%20JEEP%20WRANGLER&vin= [Intake valves] https://www.fme-cat.com/overlays/part-detail.aspx?brand=SP&PartNumber=V-4554&pt=Exhaust%20Valve&lu=1998%20JEEP%20WRANGLER&vin= [Exhaust valves] https://www.fme-cat.com/Application.aspx?year=1998&make=JEEP&model=WRANGLER&cat=Engine&engbase=4.0L%20L6%20242cid&ga=Y&back=true [Overview of intake and exhaust valves] https://www.fme-cat.com/overlays/part-detail.aspx?brand=SP&PartNumber=VK-216&pt=Valve%20Spring%20Retainer%20Keeper&lu=1998%20JEEP%20WRANGLER&vin= [Valve retainer keepers] https://www.fme-cat.com/overlays/part-detail.aspx?brand=SP&PartNumber=HT-2011&pt=Valve%20Lifter&lu=1998%20JEEP%20WRANGLER&vin= [Lifters are the same over all inline Jeep/AMC sixes] A concern with camshaft installations would be the rocker arm ratio. See the rocker arm interchangeability in this listing. AMC/Jeep inline six rocker arms are essentially the same with the same ratio: https://www.fme-cat.com/overlays/part-detail.aspx?brand=SP&PartNumber=R-905A&pt=Rocker%20Arm&lu=1998%20JEEP%20WRANGLER&vin= Pushrods for 4.0L engines fit the full range of 4.0L years. They are available in different lengths because the rocker arms are non-adjustable. I have discussed this at length in the forums and magazine; see https://forums.4wdmechanix.com/topic/1155-42l-re-build-77-cj-7-project/ and my reply comments from December 25, 2018 and forward. Read the details on fitting the right length pushrods. Here is the F-M parts listing for 4.0L pushrods in a standard (OEM baseline) length. There is selective fit application coverage to compensate for engine block and cylinder head deck height changes, head gasket thickness and so forth: https://www.fme-cat.com/overlays/part-detail.aspx?brand=SP&PartNumber=RP-3275&pt=Push%20Rod&lu=1998%20JEEP%20WRANGLER&vin= Keith M.: I want to use the 252 cam you recommend in your video but I haven’t been able to find a video with specific part numbers. Some of the information I’ve seen indicates that I need to change the valve springs if I go to that cam, other places I don’t see that. I need a timing set but have new lifters so I’m trying to get a package if I can but don’t want un-needed parts. I’m also unsure of which cam works with fuel injection as I have been told this makes a difference. Moses: Sounds like you just need the 252H camshaft if your new lifter set is compatible. If the lifters are OEM replacement, ask CompCams tech if OEM lifters will work with the 252H camshaft. Typically, the camshaft kit includes the cam and lifters, but if CompCam simply uses an OEM replacement type lifter, you could save some here. The 1998 4.0L upper valve train (valves, retainers, keepers, rocker arms and such) should be readily compatible with your 252H camshaft choice. You do need to use the correct length pushrods to attain the right lifter preload as described at the forum exchange and magazine articles. If lifters are the same, you can see whether CompCams is willing to sell the camshaft by itself. They may not warrant the camshaft if you don’t use their lifters…Always use engine break-in lube additive (Lucas, CompCams, etc.) with ZDDP to assure proper seating of the lifters with the camshaft lobes. You still need a timing set from whatever source plus correct length pushrods if the OEM pushrods are not the correct length. As for the PCM compatibility, there is the issue of Coil-On-Plug engines requiring a different camshaft than the 252H. Your engine is not C-O-P, it has a distributor and earlier PCM programming. I’ve not heard of anyone getting an engine code from a 252H camshaft installed in a pre-C-O-P engine like yours. If I were to build my 4.0L 1999 XJ Cherokee distributor type engine into a stroker, I would use the 252H grind camshaft rather than use a stock OEM replacement. I have used the 252H grind with EFI truck engines as far back as a Ford 300 inline six MPI engine (1987). The 252H grind has also been tested repeatedly by Tony Hewes on pre-C-O-P EFI/MPI 4.6L stroker builds. Keith M.: This package would be fine, under specifications it says it works on years 1964-1998. But I can’t be sure that’s correct really, because of the fuel injection and possible valve stem issue: https://www.compcams.com/high-energy-206-206-hydraulic-flat-cam-sk-kit-for-amc-199-258-4-0l.html If I had to replace valve springs I’d use this kit: https://www.compcams.com/high-energy-206-206-hydraulic-flat-cam-k-kit-for-amc-199-258-4-0l.html In specifications it says 1964-1998, but under Installation Notes it states ‘K-Kits will only work in 1964-88 models due to different valve stem diameters” Moses: Valve springs and retainer sizes are governed by the valve stem diameter. This appears to be the reference here. Logically, you do need to match valve springs and retainers to the valve stems and cylinder head spring seats. For your purposes, you only need to use the right diameter 4.0L valves, matching springs and retainers for your cylinder head casting and model year choice. Approach the valvetrain like you’re rebuilding a stock 4.0L engine. Choose replacement parts for the cylinder head casting and block casting involved. Keith M.: And somewhere in here there’s a review for a kit where the reviewer states the kit won’t work specifically on the 1998 engine. That’s strange to me and seems incorrect- I have two heads, one is a 7120 of an earlier (1991-1995 I think) and then there’s the 0630 casting that came off my 1998. Both have 5/16 valve stem diameters by my measurement so I don’t believe there’s a difference. I’m assuming the whole problem with valve stem diameter is the earlier years are a different size so the later heads won’t work with the keepers and other valve spring parts that come in the kit. Moses: My assumption, too. We’re in accord here… Keith M.: I’m just trying to avoid getting the wrong cam and having it fitted to the bearings and then having to get another one. I don’t want to reuse the stock cam really, but I don’t know enough to say a different cam is worth it. This Jeep needs to idle and drive well on the street, I can’t have it be stumbly or rough idling as I will be selling it at some point soon. I do want to learn how to do these builds well as I restore IH Scouts- the 4.2 was an available engine that I think is much better in many ways than the IH engines and if I could find a way to build an excellent and reliable stroker with a 4.0 block and the 4.2 crank I’d do these regularly. Moses: Understood, Keith…I’m a Scout buff, too. If fuel efficiency is an aim and vehicle weight not excessive, a 4.6L build from a 1991-99 (pre-C-O-P) 4.0L block and head could make sense as an alternative to the 304 or 345 I-H V-8. I-H was wise to outsource AMC 4.2L/258 engines, they offered a high-torque design that tolerated emission controls better than competitors. Keith M: Thanks for your help Moses, I’ve done my best to sift through all the info out there and I just can’t come to the right conclusion without your advice...Respectfully, Keith M. Moses: No problem…You want to build a safe and reliable engine. My recommendation for the 252H grind has always been simple: This grind offers increased lift with moderate duration. More lift without increased duration means a “bottom-end” camshaft that actually enhances the idle, tip-in response and mid-range power. This cam is much different than the 260H grind. Since the 1980s, I have recommended the CompCams 252H for fuel efficiency, quicker torque rise (more diesel-like), superior idle and rock crawling tip-in stability. This camshaft raises idle vacuum and maintains higher manifold vacuum from idle to mid-range rpm. This is simply a trailer pulling, rock crawling, high manifold vacuum camshaft for optimal power at low speeds, midrange and to a realistic 4500-5000 rpm maximum shift point. It will make power to 5,500 rpm in a pinch. In your 1998-based pre-C-O-P PCM engine, you should experience no problems. The lift is not extreme and will not create valve spring “coil bind” with stock ratio rocker arms. (Valve springs must be new or in good condition and provide the proper spring rates at specified valve spring heights.) With a stroker crankshaft, the 252H makes even more “stump-pulling” sense. The gearing of your Jeep should target a 4500-5000 rpm maximum engine speed. Your single rail EFI/MPI, the 1998 PCM, MAP sensor and camshaft sensor will find this camshaft compatible. The 302 Ford V-8 injectors described in my articles will make sense. C-O-P engine builders should consider the newer grind from CompCams to avoid engine check light issues. The C-O-P PCM and camshaft position sensor monitors the OEM camshaft valve opening/closing events (lobe valve timing). The CompCams 252H valve opening/closing events can trigger an engine check light on a C-O-P engine with its PCM programming. A roller chain (Cloyes or similar) timing set is always an improvement, though the 252H camshaft will work with a stock/OEM replacement set as well. Your focus should be selecting the correct length pushrods and setting the valve timing to factory marks. This is optimal valve timing for the performance gains I have described…Make sure you install the distributor correctly, which will properly index the camshaft position sensor and ignition rotor in the process. There is nothing exotic about the 252H grind. I have installed this camshaft as an OEM replacement. The valve/lobe timing creates an issue with the C-O-P engines because the later PCM is looking for specific valve opening and closing events in relationship to the crankshaft. Let us know how your 4.6L build turns out and your impressions of the 252H camshaft performance... Regards, Moses
  8. Moses, I have watched your videos regarding how to approach a stroker motor. I have read tons of info on the internet, and I've seen many calculators for quench height, combustion cylinder volume, etc. It really is baffling to me, and I've begun to realize I could invest a lot of money and end up with an engine that doesn't work. Is there any identifying info on the block that would allow you (or someone) to write me a "recipe" for what parts I need to build up a stroker? I'm realizing that the added weight of the full size truck axles and 38" tires are going to necessitate more power. I've been thinking about Ford 302 power, as I have secured a 1993 EEC IV harness and computer, but that swap has its own challenges. I always thought a stroker was the best way to spice up my powertrain, and I still like the idea if I can be relatively certain if what parts I need to buy to get it right the first time. Please let me know what you think.
  9. New here and tried searching but came up with nothing similar. My 06 LJ 4.0 (155000 miles) recently developed a habit of going to a fast idle/high rev of around 1500 RPM's or so. If I blip the throttle it settles down until you take of again and it repeats. I installed a Genright 31.5 gallon fuel tank and replaced the fuel pump assembly at the same time because it was a whole lot easier and I didn't want to drop the new tank anytime soon. I had a code for EVAP system small leak which I attributed to the vent hose from the tank to the filler neck as the hose that came with the tank was rather short and had no clamps. I installed it and put some zip ties on it until I could get a new section of line and clamp, which I did a week or so later. I also had a code for O2 sensor which I forgot to write down but it was present long before these symptoms began. I have searched for vacuum leaks but it's possible I might have missed one. Anyone have thoughts on this?
  10. Hello, I have some trouble with mpgs, idling and acceleration on my Wrangler YJ 1995. 4.0. Recently went to a mechanic, he connected my PCM to a DRBIII scantool, and he told me that the adaptive factor is -80%. He did reset all adaptive memory, and I can feel improvement in mpg and acceleration. Is there any way to reset adaptive memory other than connecting it to a scantool? I've read on internet about touching positive and negative cables (or grounding postitve), that it empties the capacitors in PCM adaptive memory. The reason I'm asking this is because I don't have scantool available all the time, and that this error is due to a bad LPG map (I have converted this JEEP to propane).. So I would like to once again reset memory, and after PCM relearns to copy that map to a LPG controller so there would not be any differences.
  11. I am working on a 2002 Wrangler 4.0 automatic. I found this connected grounded to the left side of the block. I have no idea what it is or what it does. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks so much, Jake
  12. I have a 1997 Jeep TJ Wrangler 4.0 with 171K miles on the clock. This mechanic at work is making me very nervous telling me that the oil pump on the 4.0L takes a dump between 150 and 200 thou miles and I should be aware of this..Im a worrier and he's got me going now. Anybody have any input on this and what I should do? the engine runs great. When I start it cold it has 50 lbs oil pressure. when its warmed up its 40 while driving and 20 sitting at a light. Sounds normal to me but have any of you had issues with the oil pump? He says when it goes its too late..New motor time..
  13. Going to swap my old 258 w/ 4.0 head for a 99 model 4.0 in my 84 CJ-8. Already have the mpfi setup, just going to use it along with the TF999 trans. Question is will the flexplate and starter both work on the 99 4.0 engine? I've been told that I need the flexplate that fits the engine and to drill it to fit the trans. torque converter. Just need to know which is correct. Thanks
  14. I have attached a few pictures of this transmission I have but I don't know where its from I need help identifying this transmission the only thing I can identify here is the transfer case because it has the sticker in the back its an NP "new process" 249 J This is a manual 4wd transmission I believe its an ax15 transmission but please give me your input as i'm not sure any help is appreciated one more thing from the shape of the bell housing I don't think this came of a Jeep possibly AMC or other but thanks again
  15. random, intermittent #1 cylinder misfire. I have replaced the coil-pac, #1 injector, spark plugs, and both upstream O2 sensors. engine leakdown and compression normal though #1 slightly lower in compression. emissions always meet I/M standards (no certificate of waiver needed). have all heat shields including #3 injector so vapor lock not issue. engine runs good when not misfiring though does have a slight roughness noticeable when at idle. Is there any way to check the current of an injector wire or plug while engine is running and showing symptoms to see if all is well in the wiring harness? engine bay is quite clean for 235k mi. and no noticeable damage to wiring harness, but there could be a partial open in a circuit I suppose. Any ideas? don't know where to go from here with repairs/diagnosis etc. Oh, misfire occurs mostly after engine has been under normal-use-load for a couple hours or so, but not always. sometimes it is misfiring at cold-start.
  16. Greetings from Northern Michigan, I am in the process of building a stroker for a 2002 TJ. I need to check the pushrod length. The engine is still on the stand. Do I need to prime the lifters to get the proper pre-load? Thanks so much, Jake
  17. Im looking at building a motor for my 83 Cj7 I have options, I have a 96 4.0 parts motor with 0630 head plus a spare 7180 head. I have two 258s one is a 1990 (006CL25 / EF3235444) the other an 80 (009C09 / 3235444). The 1990 258 i could just re-ring and drop a 4.0 head on, i wouldn't even have to plug the water jacket holes in the head as the 90 block is squared of on that side like a 4.0 block, re cam with a RV unit and i'm hauling like never before. Pretty strait forward. Or; Take the crank and rods from the 1980 block and put them in the 4.0 block. With this one i would keep the 4.0 pistons, install new rings and because the 1980 crank is the last of the 8 counter weight heavy cranks i would assemble it and assume im pretty close on balance and see what it runs like. Im thinking the second one is a bit of a gamble on the balancing but i've put lighter pistons in small block chevs before and never had to rebalance, so ive been there done that. Anybody out there done a heavy crank to 4.0 swap with all stock stuff? think it could work?
  18. The weather has warmed, and we're not using the block heaters. (They provide approximately 140-degrees F coolant temperature at start-up.) When starting the Jeep XJ Cherokee's 4.0L engine on a relatively cold morning this week, I could hear a subtle misfire. This was during the warm-up/enrichment cycle, and by the time the engine came off the warm-up cycle (around 140-degrees F), the idle stabilized. At highway speeds, the engine seemed to run smoothly in terms of cylinder firing, though there had developed an unusual downshifting habit on grades and strong headwinds. Concerns came up about the TPS or oxygen sensor, maybe even a fuel supply issue. Miles earlier, however, the TPS had been replaced, and the O2 sensor as well. Giving this some thought, I pulled the air filter out. Holding it to sunlight, there was little light showing! The filter was neatly and uniformly clogged. This was the burbling at idle and sluggish on-highway at cruise trouble spot. So why didn't I replace the filter earlier? I change oil and the oil filter on cue, watching the oil color constantly. The air filter, however, gets dismissed when our mileage is mostly highway without dust conditions. In looking at the clogged filter, it was clear that winter "road film" was the culprit, and this can be just as impacting as dust and dirt particles. How did the engine continue to run in this state? Because the marvel of modern EFI has the O2 sensor compensating for air/fuel ratio constantly. Unlike a carbureted engine, which would show symptoms of an over-rich running condition much like running with the choke on, the A/F remains normal with EFI. At highway cruise, especially with an engine that chugs along at only 2,000-2,100 rpm most of the time, there is limited CFM (cubic feet per minute) air flow needed to maintain the A/F at that throttle setting. However, when load demands raise the throttle opening and drop the manifold vacuum at the same time, notably with the cruise control operating, the engine requires a transmission (AW4 in this case) downshift to maintain the A/F ratio constant. This creates the needed power at the expense of fuel efficiency. The dirty filter explained the downshifting on hills and subtle misfire at cold idle during the enrichment cycle. The moral: Check your air filter regardless of the season and whether or not you're driving off-pavement. Of course, when driving off pavement, one trip down a desert alkaline road can clog a brand new air filter. On highway, this does take longer, but with winter road debris and salted roads, the dirt accumulation is equally impacting. It just takes a bit longer to produce symptoms. A good rule-of-thumb for replacing the filter is the factory service interval. In our Jeep 4.0L engine's case, I'm targeting every 3rd or 4th oil change when driving strictly on-highway. For dusty off-pavement conditions, inspect the filter regularly and replace it as soon as necessary. Moses
  19. I own a 1995 Jeep Wrangler YJ 4.0L just got it reassembled after repainting I'm having 1 issue it's starting hard I replaced the iac valve no change when it starts firing it only sounds like a few cylinders until it warms up i have to keep my foot on the throttle slightly it sometimes back fires but once it's warm it runs perfectly fine. I don't have a vapor canister in it cause it got lost could that be my issue?
  20. Ok, here is my situation. i am new to the the jeep owners world. I have wanted a cj since I was 13 yrs old and I finally got one about 2 months ago. I bought an 85 cj7, it has a 2.5 l 4 cyl with a t4 transmission. I bought it with the expectation of putting in a different motor and trans, however, what I did not count on was how much body work I would end up having to do. The body work has taken a huge chunk out of my budget for the motor. A buddy of mine gave me a 4.0 out of his 88 comanche. the engine ran but had been sitting for 7 yrs and all of the seals leaked, including the main seal. My original plan was to use this motor and carburate it since I don't have all of the parts for the fuel injection and I want to keep it as simple under the hood as possible. My question is, would this be possible and could i use the existing motor mounts. Also, what else would I have to do to make this work? Any help on this would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
  21. Happy Thanksgiving to all! I've posted before that my CJ-7 has a Cherokee 4.0L in it, but it's not really that simple Here is the history as I know it or can guess from some evidence: 1. Originally a 258/4.2L straight six with the FrankenCarb--this one was sold in California, so I'm sure it was extra-special. 2. MOPAR EFI kit added to the 4.2L. It seems this addition happened sometime after 2000, as the MOPAR labels for the kit have a 2000 copyright on them. I learned from the shop that did most of the work on this Jeep that the lady I bought it from purchased it sometime around 2001. It was owned by 1 family prior to that (1983-2000?). I suspect the Skyjacker lift and sketchy paint job happened about the same time to make it ready to sell. 3. The 4.2L finally gave up in 2014. This engine was replaced with a junkyard 1995 Cherokee 4.0L last May; engine had about 155K on it at that time. I never really knew which version of the MOPAR EFI kit I had, OBDI (with fuel return line) or OBDII from the newer models (returnless). There was also the option that they pulled a complete 1995 engine including the EFI and junked the old MOPAR kit. I just didn't really know. I've done some more research and taken some pics to see if anyone can confirm what I've come to believe. It seems like my system matches the pictures I've seen of a single rail EFI system. That would mean it is: 1. 1997 and newer 2. Returnless 3. OBDII I mostly ask these questions because I've been looking at performance options for whenever I'm forced to rebuild this engine. I really think I want to leave a Jeep engine in there, as opposed to a small block Chevy, for example. It seems like most systems (supercharger, programmers, etc.) are dependent upon the OBDI VS. OBDII distinction. With a 1995 engine, I wasn't sure which items I should be looking at. Assuming this is a 1997 and newer-style EFI kit, I assume I should only look for performance items for the newer model engines, correct? I don't think there was much other than heads (I have the supposedly better casting) that varied in those mid 1990's engines, other than the EFI/PCM. 1. Can I conclusively say this is a returnless/1997 and newer EFI kit? 2. Is this the OBDI/OBDII port I'm showing in the picture? It is about 8" down the main wire harness from the MOPAR EFI kit PCM. Regards, Case
  22. Members and Guests...We've had some great discussion on rebuilding the popular Aisin AX15 transmission, and my 'how-to' rebuild rental at Vimeo On Demand (http://www.vimeo.com/ondemand/ax15rebuild) has received solid feedback as a resource for shops and DIY level techs! I'm pleased to see many are able to successfully rebuild and thoroughly restore the AX15, made popular in 1989-1999 model year Jeep vehicles with the 4.0L engine. The AX15 transmission rebuild coverage and our discussion here at these forums also serve other applications of the AX15, including the Dodge Dakota, some Toyota truck models (and performance car applications) plus Isuzu and GM use. There are, however, instances when a transmission is simply not rebuildable. You do the teardown, follow my inspection guidelines or a factory shop manual, and discover that the wear exceeds any reasonable parts replacement costs...In these cases, we do have an outlet and sensible alternative: Advance Adapters and a new AX15 transmission! Note: Many owners have discovered that a "good used" transmission is an oxymoron for an off-road 4x4 vehicle that gets oversized tires and a lot of shifting either off-pavement or in city traffic. I'm not an advocate of buying "good used" unless you know the history of the donor vehicle. Any 1989-99 Jeep 4x4 transmission has seen more than enough use and is a candidate for my "blueprint rebuild" or a complete replacement. "Good used" can simply translate to "definitely used"! In the day, a BW T-18 or T-98, a GM SM420 or SM465, a New Process NP435 or other commercial grade, iron case "truck" transmissions (or the more contemporary NV4500 or NV5600) were often still in serviceable condition after the vehicle expired. That will not be the case with a used, higher mileage AX15 transmission, it will not provide long or reliable service as a high mileage used purchase. Optimistically, such a "core" might be rebuildable. I have worked closely with Advance Adapters' full line of transmission to transfer case adapters, Atlas transfer cases and other products for decades now. (We can thank Advance Adapters for its support at the magazine and these forums, too!) For many owners, the fatigue and normal wear of a powertrain provides the incentive for unique and popular upgrading of a 4x4 powertrain. In that arena, the Aisin AX15 has become the contemporary transmission of choice for stock 4.0L restorations and even swaps of moderate horsepower V-8 power into a Jeep 4x4 chassis. For horsepower to the 275-300 range (like an LS3 or a 4.6L Jeep inline six stroker) plus a useful overdrive gear, I consider a freshly and properly rebuilt AX15 as a prime candidate for a street/trail "build". These swaps or buildups do require either a rebuilt or new Aisin AX15. This contemporary transmission has also become the replacement for the later, expensive to rebuild 6-speed Jeep TJ Wrangler transmissions. Yes, a brand new AX15 transmission, ready for bolt-in replacement in Jeep and many Dodge Dakota, Toyota and Isuzu applications! These units are close ratio five-speeds (5th overdrive) that can bring new life into a higher mileage vehicle. They also deliver a desirable level of contemporary torque and stamina for moderate horsepower V-8 transplants where an overdrive is desirable. (These units even look great, click on these photos!) The exciting news is that you have the option of buying a new Aisin AX15. These units, available through Advance Adapters (a direct Aisin distributor), provide all of the legendary features and reliability found in new Jeep 4x4s from the Jeep YJ/TJ and XJ Cherokee era (or Dodge Dakota 3.9 V-6 models and other AX15 applications). Advance Adapters has a long reputation for serving the 4WD community, whether sponsoring enthusiast runs at Moab, Utah or supporting the off-road racing community. Advance Adapters maintains this approach with the pricing of these new Aisin AX15 transmissions. So, if your AX15 is either too worn for rebuilding or you're building a contemporary Jeep 4x4 project for the street/trail or off-road use, consider the Advance Adapters AX15 option! For more details, visit the Advance Adapters website at: http://www.AdvanceAdapters.com! Moses
  23. Hi, Just swapped out my AX15 transmission on my 97 Jeep Wrangler. After I completed the job, with the engine off, I was able to shift through the gears without issue. I pressed the clutch pedal and it was easy the first few times then became extremely stiff. I removed the external slave cylinder from the bell housing and manually pushed in the clutch fork with my finger. The fork moved forward easily, then I heard something fall inside the bell housing. I pulled the tranny back off and found the clutch fork retaining clip had fallen off. I proceeded to put it back in place ensuring it was secured. After attaching the tranny back on, I tested the clutch pedal which appeared to operate normally (engine off) as well as ensuring I could shift through the gears without issue. I then continued with attaching the rest of the harnesses, transfer case, etc.. I fired up the engine and heard a knocking sound which appeared to be coming from the external slave cylinder area. As I depressed the clutch, the knocking stopped. I turned off the engine, removed the slave cylinder and had my wife press on the clutch pedal. It became stiff again. I pulled the transmission again and the clutch fork retaining clip was still secured. This is where I have left off for the night. I plan on bleeding the master / slave cylinder system tomorrow and see if that fixes the issue with the stiff clutch pedal. Some questions: 1) How far should I be able to press in the clutch fork manually with the external slave cylinder removed from the bell housing? 2) Should the clutch fork return after being depressed manually (like a spring) with the external slave cylinder removed from the bell housing (mine didn't. After pressing on the clutch fork, it remained in the position I had pushed it to). 2) Should the clutch pedal move freely with the external slave cylinder removed from the bell housing? 3) Could it be the throw-out bearing? It appears to be ok from visual inspection, it slides along the transmission shaft easily, the springs are all intact. Any suggestions would be welcomed. Thanks.
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