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Pete H.

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About Pete H.

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  1. Greetings fellows! Background: Well, I had to let my younger brother drive the YJ last week, and he is a careful driver but really unsure of himself with a standard shift. I had just gotten an epidural shot in my back and they refuse to let a person drive after one of those...He was doing fine until we came to a four way stop at the top of a hill, and the Jeep picked then to stall out. The jerk behind us was right on the bumper and leaning on his horn, so my kid brother got flustered and gunned the gas, peeled out, and I am pretty sure did something to the rear end. (It was shuddering for a mile until I got him to pull over and calm down. He refuses to drive a standard ever again ...so much for buying him a cj2a someday.) Symptoms: In the lower gears, there is a single bark or scrape coming from the rear end when just starting to accelerate. It sounds like bumping a metal table on a ceramic tile floor. I have had a bad U-joint before, and this is not the clicking or chirping that I have heard under those circumstances. I have also noticed a little bit of "give" in acceleration. I am wondering if it is just time to replace my U-joints (visual inspection was tight, but that sound has got me thinking)...or if my poor baby brother banged up the differential or transfer case. Thanks for looking! Sincerely, Pete H. P.S. The differential was rebuilt four years ago and has never been taken off-road (other than the cow pasture) since. New ring, pinion, yoke, bearings, shims, etc.
  2. Thanks for the information, Moses! I figured I might as well start the update with the oil weight subject. I have a noticeable lower end rod bearing rattle when I would cruise past the 1750 RPM mark. I deduced that since my compression was so high, plus the fact that I have replaced lower rod bearings on a friends jeep before, that the engine is sound and that the best idea would be to go up in oil weight until such time as I can replace those pesky lower rod bearings. The 20w50 performs admirably, and even though it fluctuates from idle to running pressure (fairly normal, yes? the oil pump circulates more oil in response to rpm?), I think that the lighter weight oil just did not have good enough viscosity. Now back to the BBD... I did something odd when I was driving it around cold yesterday, trying to figure it out.* It started to bog down on a stretch of fairly level ground - I was in fourth gear doing forty miles per hour- 1700 rpm and dropping (no revving, more like the reverse, the engine got very quiet, then sputtered) -- So I reached down quickly and pulled the manual choke out to 1/4 to 1/3, and EVERYTHING improved! the stumbling disappeared, The acceleration picked up, and it acted as if it was meant to be there. (I did not drive it too far like that.) Is this a helpful clue? I am really not a fan of this particular rebuild Carb. Mostly because when I asked the fellow helping me out on the Jeep (he purchased the carb for me as a gift), he said it had no rebuild tag, just the paper sticker, that the box was beat up, and that he had to connect some parts before he put it on for me... * I don't know what made me think to try it, it was more of an, "oh, heck no, we are not doing this today!" type of experience By the way, I am having some vacuum advance woes, since I have already disconnected the ECU. (Oh, as a heads up, if you have to deal with any parts stores, the OEM ICM has a different pigtail connector than the one that is sold at most parts stores now. Found it out because the ICM and ECU were both bad.) I already have an older style pre-computer distributor that I had bought a while back. I am also going to page though the steps about your chrysler 5 pin conversion setup.... I would keep my stock distributor? Hopefully, that will solve another part of the puzzle. Thank you again for all of your information! Pete H. P.S. I could probably put that BBD adjustment information through its paces around here.... Thank you, kindly!
  3. Well, time for the update, and I am now even more puzzled as to what it could be. The accelerator pump gives two good shots, but only after the carburetor is warmed up. As soon as the carburetor/engine heats up, the problem all but disappears.... It makes me wonder if I should pull the Carb apart and check all of the specs on it (Throttle shaft bushings, etc.). Is there a spec sheet or manual out there on that particular BBD? In a worst case scenario, where the rebuild is of a poor quality, should I try to rebuild it myself? (If I were to do that however, I think I would be buying a spare carburetor, and having one freshly rebuilt on hand. I am not one for worst case scenarios, but I do know that not all rebuilds are equal.) Wanting to be extra careful in diagnosis, I set the timing to 8 Deg. BTDC, as directed, and noticed my advance curve is not as strong as it ought to be. I know when I cut out the computer, that it affected timing curve, but would it limit me to just a few degrees of advance (like a limp home mode almost)? Should I probably install the older style pre-computer distributor in it to remedy this, or is it indicative of a problem elsewhere? Oh, a brief list of what i went over in my engine bay today : All cylinders show no less than 155lbs. and no more than 165 lbs. compression (above what I have read they are supposed to be, but in range of one another) Motor oil is Castrol 20w50 (heavy, but I have found it works well at controlling lower rod bearing noise and keeps oil pressure in the 15 psi range when hot and idling [my Jeep had a tendency to dip to almost 0 when at idle with lighter weights]) All plugs are new, gaps are .035 Wires are new Coil is new Distributor is original (yikes) Timing is now 8* BTDC; Computer input removed via Nutter Bypass Being extra careful on the timing, because the fan clutch has bought the farm. All vacuum lines sound and attached to proper source/destination Accelerator pump in carb gives good shots when warm Idle set to 500rpm, high idle set to 1100 rpm I hope this info helps, as I am a little overtired. Sincerely, Pete H.
  4. The reason that my Mopar dealer told me was that the 10w30 was found to protect as well as the older gear oil, without the sulfur that can affect the brass parts found in asian transmissions. I was incredulous, to say the least! I know that the AX 15 and its mates are no Muncie rock crushers, but the shear protection of 10w30 sounds, well, inadequate under load. Also, as was mentioned earlier, the AX15 stock synchros tend to be, er, touchy. (Thank God they are not as bad as the Peugeot!). The first and second in my experience tend to have problems with hard shifting when cold and the transmission has a few miles behind it. I reckon it's a fault with the AX 15 that was easier to mask by superseding the old gear oil with the new spec. Some I know folks do run the 10w30 in their tranny to ease the problem, and change the oil as if it were in their crankcase, on the order of every few thousand miles. AMSOIL also offers both the Mopar spec, as well as the "hey that can't be right" 75w90. Best Regards, Pete H.
  5. Well, it seems this vehicle of mine likes to missbehave in spurts...No sooner were the intake and springs taken care of, now I better figure out something it has been doing for a little while now. Here goes: I put a '77 dodge truck BBD on the Jeep to replace a faulty Weber 32/36 (it was having secondary issues and was also the victim of some shop mischief). It is a manual choke, and takes just a moment to get it started in the morning. It idles like a champ, but the problem comes up that until it warms up, performance is terrible. When I press down on the accelerator, it acts as though the accelerator pump is not keeping up, or the intermediate circuit is fouIed. Even revving up from a stop sign might not keep it from stalling out in the middle of the instersection (I have also found that shifting from second to third, I had to shift back again, because the engine would sputter and start to die on a straightaway...). I already fixed the pump linkage once (it was not the best rebuild in my opinion) and the intermediate circuit looks clear. Once it warms up, there seems to be far less of a problem to it. I have had it do the accelerator stumble when warm, though. I am scratching my head here, as I love the Super Six BBD that I have, it is a reliable carburetor when it is built to spec... Also am wondering if it is a problem I am overlooking, like timing advance. She is set at 9 deg. BTDC (Although I have reason to believe that the timing chain is stretched...I recently had to reset the timing back down from 19BTDC) and have already done a nutter bypass on the engine and have an older style distributor on hand (to make up for the advance issues). Thanks again for any help. Sincerely, Pete H.
  6. Hey fellows, The new specs from Mopar do call for 10w30 in the AX15, although I hear that redline is a very good product. My old transmission has the older style gear oil in it now (75W 90), and as Mr. Ludel was alluding, there can be problems with too much lubricity! My best advice is to figure out the kind of wear that you have on your transmission parts (given mileage, usage, maintenance history, type of driving[off road vs. mostly highway]). Once you do that, and have a look at your old tranny fluid for tell tale warnings, select the oil closest to the OEM that takes those factors into account. I know of guys who run Royal Purple in their transmissions, and some who swear by the heavier Redline... Hope this has been of help! Sincerely, Pete H.
  7. I sure appreciate the extra information on this. The fella who was teaching me the ins and outs of my jeep just got switched to a travel assignment, so I am trying to figure out just what I need to do to get her running safely. To make matters worse, we made a deal that he would teach me how to fix stuff on it but instead he went and started fixing stuff himself... (I'm grateful to him, but I'm kinda confused about what does what now.) I had installed a new fuel tank, pump, filters, and lines recently, after the jeep came back from the shop with aluminum shavings in the tank, (I swore that was the last time I would trust a mechanic with my vehicle) and noted that the evap canister was weird...Well as I noted earlier, it really wasn't there (I pulled it apart and there were no innards to it. Looking at my fuel lines... I have one coming from the tank to the fuel pump, one frome the pump to the filter, one from the filter to the carburetor, and one from the filter to the tank return. The gas tank is vented to the fake evap canister. Can I find those diagrams in the MR 279 and 280? A company in Ohio sells the FSM on disk for about $30. I have nothing against the EGR, but it looked like the po had a serious vendetta against it. The valve itself was cut off and looks like the stub was soldered shut. Again, thanks for the diagram. Hopefully, I can take the jeep to that early 60's format we had discussed, and get her running more reliably. Many thanks, Pete H.
  8. You were right on the money there. As it is a mild wheeler at best (constant work in progress is more like it), road handling is a little more important at this juncture. Went with a five leaf setup up front and kept the stock sway bar. It is a little bit stiffer in ride characteristics, but then, I drive like an old man, so I have found the difference to be negligible. Oh, I would like to add how much of a difference that sway bar link makes when going around an unbanked turn....We have those kind of turns around here all too often (where the road curves sharply but has a flat grade), and the difference pre- and post- fix was noticeable! Thanks for the help...Pete H.
  9. Thank you for the heads up on the vacuum system. The more I dig into this, the less I am liking what the previous owner did and what I am saddled with fixing. I was able to mount the air cleaner, but the switches were non functioning on the trap door, and some of the other little parts to it were missing. The actuator arm came off in my hand (looked to have broken off inside of the intake) so I removed the actuated gates (plastic?). As of now, I have the heated air hose pointed down at the exhaust manifold heat riser, and the main spout pointed toward the radiator. I think with this set up it may require some warm up before driving, but should alleviate driving ice up. Looking at the evap system...HOLY SMOKES! I knew that the PO had removed the faulty 4wd actuator and put in a cable system (trusty thing, that...) but no evap canister on there, egr is hillbillied shut. I think I need to start a new thread here...Thanks again for your help!—Pete H.
  10. Since I am doing some work on my front leaf spring suspension, I shall probably be going from four leaf to six leaf like I have in the back. The sway bar links are shot as well, and I have heard that if I go to the stiff six leaf all around, I might not need the sway bar up front. I would like to keep the vehicle as stable as possible, as there are some nasty curves that are not banked very well in the area. Should I just keep it as stock as possible? Any input would be greatly appreciated...Pete H.
  11. Greetings, I have a 1987 wrangler YJ with the 4.2 straight six, and cold weather starts and performance are tough on the carburetor (ohio weather). As such, recently I had to invest in an oem offset air intake from ebay. The problem arises that I have a 77 Dodge truck BBD on the jeep, with a manual choke. My question is: is there anyone out there that can fill me in on which of the hoses I need to connect (and to where) to get the flaps in the intake to actuate? The intake came mostly complete, but looks like it is missing one of the vacuum hoses. Would I just be better of putting in a manual linkage switch? Looking forward to others joining this forum!
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