Jump to content

Pete H.

Members
  • Content Count

    11
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About Pete H.

  • Rank
    Advanced Member
  1. Greetings fellows! Background: Well, I had to let my younger brother drive the YJ last week, and he is a careful driver but really unsure of himself with a standard shift. I had just gotten an epidural shot in my back and they refuse to let a person drive after one of those...He was doing fine until we came to a four way stop at the top of a hill, and the Jeep picked then to stall out. The jerk behind us was right on the bumper and leaning on his horn, so my kid brother got flustered and gunned the gas, peeled out, and I am pretty sure did something to the rear end. (It was shuddering for
  2. Thanks for the information, Moses! I figured I might as well start the update with the oil weight subject. I have a noticeable lower end rod bearing rattle when I would cruise past the 1750 RPM mark. I deduced that since my compression was so high, plus the fact that I have replaced lower rod bearings on a friends jeep before, that the engine is sound and that the best idea would be to go up in oil weight until such time as I can replace those pesky lower rod bearings. The 20w50 performs admirably, and even though it fluctuates from idle to running pressure (fairly normal, yes? the oil pump ci
  3. Well, time for the update, and I am now even more puzzled as to what it could be. The accelerator pump gives two good shots, but only after the carburetor is warmed up. As soon as the carburetor/engine heats up, the problem all but disappears.... It makes me wonder if I should pull the Carb apart and check all of the specs on it (Throttle shaft bushings, etc.). Is there a spec sheet or manual out there on that particular BBD? In a worst case scenario, where the rebuild is of a poor quality, should I try to rebuild it myself? (If I were to do that however, I think I would be buying a spare car
  4. The reason that my Mopar dealer told me was that the 10w30 was found to protect as well as the older gear oil, without the sulfur that can affect the brass parts found in asian transmissions. I was incredulous, to say the least! I know that the AX 15 and its mates are no Muncie rock crushers, but the shear protection of 10w30 sounds, well, inadequate under load. Also, as was mentioned earlier, the AX15 stock synchros tend to be, er, touchy. (Thank God they are not as bad as the Peugeot!). The first and second in my experience tend to have problems with hard shifting when cold and the transmis
  5. Well, it seems this vehicle of mine likes to missbehave in spurts...No sooner were the intake and springs taken care of, now I better figure out something it has been doing for a little while now. Here goes: I put a '77 dodge truck BBD on the Jeep to replace a faulty Weber 32/36 (it was having secondary issues and was also the victim of some shop mischief). It is a manual choke, and takes just a moment to get it started in the morning. It idles like a champ, but the problem comes up that until it warms up, performance is terrible. When I press down on the accelerator, it acts as though the
  6. Hey fellows, The new specs from Mopar do call for 10w30 in the AX15, although I hear that redline is a very good product. My old transmission has the older style gear oil in it now (75W 90), and as Mr. Ludel was alluding, there can be problems with too much lubricity! My best advice is to figure out the kind of wear that you have on your transmission parts (given mileage, usage, maintenance history, type of driving[off road vs. mostly highway]). Once you do that, and have a look at your old tranny fluid for tell tale warnings, select the oil closest to the OEM that takes tho
  7. I sure appreciate the extra information on this. The fella who was teaching me the ins and outs of my jeep just got switched to a travel assignment, so I am trying to figure out just what I need to do to get her running safely. To make matters worse, we made a deal that he would teach me how to fix stuff on it but instead he went and started fixing stuff himself... (I'm grateful to him, but I'm kinda confused about what does what now.) I had installed a new fuel tank, pump, filters, and lines recently, after the jeep came back from the shop with aluminum shavings in the tank, (I swore that w
  8. You were right on the money there. As it is a mild wheeler at best (constant work in progress is more like it), road handling is a little more important at this juncture. Went with a five leaf setup up front and kept the stock sway bar. It is a little bit stiffer in ride characteristics, but then, I drive like an old man, so I have found the difference to be negligible. Oh, I would like to add how much of a difference that sway bar link makes when going around an unbanked turn....We have those kind of turns around here all too often (where the road curves sharply but has a flat grade), and the
  9. Thank you for the heads up on the vacuum system. The more I dig into this, the less I am liking what the previous owner did and what I am saddled with fixing. I was able to mount the air cleaner, but the switches were non functioning on the trap door, and some of the other little parts to it were missing. The actuator arm came off in my hand (looked to have broken off inside of the intake) so I removed the actuated gates (plastic?). As of now, I have the heated air hose pointed down at the exhaust manifold heat riser, and the main spout pointed toward the radiator. I think with this set up it
  10. Since I am doing some work on my front leaf spring suspension, I shall probably be going from four leaf to six leaf like I have in the back. The sway bar links are shot as well, and I have heard that if I go to the stiff six leaf all around, I might not need the sway bar up front. I would like to keep the vehicle as stable as possible, as there are some nasty curves that are not banked very well in the area. Should I just keep it as stock as possible? Any input would be greatly appreciated...Pete H.
  11. Greetings, I have a 1987 wrangler YJ with the 4.2 straight six, and cold weather starts and performance are tough on the carburetor (ohio weather). As such, recently I had to invest in an oem offset air intake from ebay. The problem arises that I have a 77 Dodge truck BBD on the jeep, with a manual choke. My question is: is there anyone out there that can fill me in on which of the hoses I need to connect (and to where) to get the flaps in the intake to actuate? The intake came mostly complete, but looks like it is missing one of the vacuum hoses. Would I just be better of putting in a manual
×
×
  • Create New...