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alheim

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About alheim

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  1. Ah, you must be frustrated with your 5th gear problem, but such is the life of a mechanic. On the upside, removal & re-installation gets easier every time. Good luck.
  2. I am just about done with this project, I have everything together besides the brakes, steering linkages, cotter pins, torquing of some bolts, and a test drive! Saturday will be the day, hopefully. Ultimately I decided not to paint the knuckles and hubs, due to time constraints, lack of proper paint, and reminding myself that it doesn't really matter if my knuckles are painted or not. However, it is a bit disappointing to see the new knuckles rusting after only one rainfall. I am sure that rust on the new hubs and shocks is not far behind! Thanks for the help along the way.
  3. Lowell, was this your first time rebuilding a manual transmission? I am curious how long it took you. Looks like a fun job, thanks for sharing.
  4. My pleasure, thank you. I don't know enough about bearing design to tell if the SKF bearings are larger than the Timken. Looking again, however, I do like how the SKF wheel flange meets the bearing at visible, parallel faces, whereas the Timken (& Mopar?) units have a taper that obscures the inner seal - but you can't really see this in my photos. Unfortunately I discarded the old Mopar unit hubs before I knew this was an issue, therefore I can not test fit into the new Mopar knuckles. The Mopar hubs (53007449) go for nearly $250/ea (edit: ~$135 on eBay) - don't tempt me ...
  5. Moses, thank you. An update: First, I received my Mopar knuckles. They clearly are a nicer product than the Crown hubs. Nicer finish, slightly better machining at key points (caliper/pad slides, connection to tie rod ends, etc). The knuckle has markings inscribed, I suppose these indicate the manufacture / inspection dates (?), whereas the Crown has no markings whatsoever. All holes/taps are nicely centered on the casting, whereas they might be off-center on the Crown - they are still properly located/oriented in relation to each other but it doesn't look as nice. I will not say tha
  6. I have purchased Mopar knuckles and SKF unit hubs. Upon receipt in a few days I will evaluate the fit of the parts of each manufacturers. My feeling is that the Crown knuckle is out of spec, but we'll see.
  7. However, I may have a problem and I am looking for advice. While replacing the axle u-joints on the bench, I test fit the new Timken unit hubs (PN 513084) into the new Crown Automotive steering knuckles (52067576 & 52067577). I noticed that it wasn't a press fit - the hub easily slid into the knuckle, with a tiny amount of play, about 0.5mm - a nice fit, but there definitely is a touch of movement - not press fit by any means. I also test fit the Timken unit hubs in the removed factory Mopar knuckles. Here, the unit hubs also slipped into the knuckle with with minimal effort,
  8. I am surprised to hear that your new shop has no lift! Thanks as always for the advice. Maybe one day I can afford te OTC truck lifts, but as a shadetree mechanic with no garage and only a dirty driveway, that will have to wait. Seems like a good option for you, however. A quick update: Steady but slow progress due to two weekends New York 20-degree weather, plus a snowstorm, and I was out of town for awhile. The worst work is complete, namely the endless scrubbing/cleanup, and rust proofing (with POR-15, the end product looks great). I have installed the new springs / shackl
  9. Moses, thank you. The Jeep looks precarious - but is quite stable. It would be nice to take the "lift" to the next level with a scissor lift or larger jack stands. The existing steering knuckles have significant divots worn into them where the brake pads slide on the knuckle. I am aware that I can weld & file as a repair, but I am trying to get this done reasonably quickly and don't want to break out the welder. They weren't cheap at $80/ea but they are a nice, shiny compliment to the unit hubs. Indeed, I have a factory service manual! And a Jeep parts catalog. Speak
  10. Moses and @biggman100 @BadDriver4x4 thanks for taking the time (a full year ago!) to respond to my inquiry. A little update: I found a mechanic out in Suffolk County, NY who is supposedly the local Jeep expert. I drove the hour to visit, nice guy, knows his stuff, but I think he was a bit un-enthused about me supplying all of my own parts, and he has a full schedule - and he knows that an picky, educated customer with a rusty Jeep is a bad value proposition! He never got back to me with a quote. Well, arm be damned, I decided to take my time and do the work myself. Some parts:
  11. Hi folks, thanks for having me. I've owned my '95 YJ since 2002, in that time I've totally rebuilt the Jeep (meticulously swapped out the I4 for the I6), put 230k miles on her, and acquired another Jeep ('01 XJ). Been a member of JeepForum.com and several other boards since then. Anyway, I'm the type of mechanic who uses a torque wrench on his oil pan drain bolt. A couple of years ago I permanently injured my arm, and I still work on the Jeep but not as easily as I once could. Here in NYC / Long Island, there is a lot of talent, but I have some serious difficultly meeting the type
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