53HiHood
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Everything posted by 53HiHood
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The bike is finally coming together, it turned into a full ground up rebuild, minus the engine. The top end has low hours on a new cylinder, piston, etc. I checked all the bearings and replaced wheel bearings and linkage bearings. The steering was recently done and the swing arm checked out too. I had to take the subframe in to repair a broken mount for the upper chain roller, and unfortunately I forgot about it until this Tuesday so it's the one thing holding me up for the re-assembly. Here's a run-down of parts: Goldentyre GT216AA front, GT232 rear Supersprox/Vortex f/r sprockets 14/51 (1 tooth up on the rear) Primary Drive Gold X-Ring Chain TM Design Chain Slider/Guide/Powerlip Rollers & Case Saver Pro Circuit Platinum 2 pipe, PC 296 Silencer (USFS Sparky approved) Cycra Pro Bend Hand Guards w/ Cycra Solutions Mount Odi Emig lock-on grips Enduro Engineering Skid Plate This is a before picture from the previous owner
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I had my buddy order a carb kit and I gave it a thorough cleaning and replaced all consumables. We also replaced the spark plug while we had the tank off. I haven't checked in the tank but we'll do that. The bike fired right up afterwards. As for the slider issue, I checked tension and alignment, everything checks out. The seller makes the sliders, and had commented that it was maybe a bad batch. I sent the bike on a short test ride and so far so good. I'll have him do a couple more short trips before hitting the open road. Thanks for the insight.
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In all my free time I don't have I decided to add another bike to the stable. I picked up a nice 07 YZ250 to turn into my enduro/woods bike. The bike was fairly clean on the outside but the build hasn't been without issue. A simple fork service turned into a full rebuild thanks to a bad free piston. I upgraded with a machined aluminum free piston from ride jbi. I haven't had much time to play with the bike but I have installed the Yamaha GYTR +8.4oz flywheel and replaced the shift stopper in the trans with an updated part. I'm trying to spread out the parts shopping so right now it's just the critical items to get the bike up and running. Down the road I plan to install a Boyesen Rad Valve, Lectron jett-less carb, and maybe an Eric Gorr 300 kit. I'll throw some more pics up soon.
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I stopped by a Fab shop in Spokane last month and they had a couple Commandos they were building. The OD green one has a Cummins 4bt, very nice build. The stripped one is being built for racing, they had an LS engine in it. Just thought I would share.
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Moses, A friend of mine bought a 2006 650L a couple months ago, I went with him to inspect it and pick it up. It's been problem free up until recent. About a week ago he told me the chain slider somehow came off the top of the swingarm and was flapping off the bottom. No big deal, bought a new one and I watched him install it correctly. 5 miles down the road and the top came off and went through the front sprocket. I looked at everything, mounting hardware was still intact, chain is a touch loose, but nothing glaring. Any experiences losing a slider, let alone two in as many rides? I can't say that I have. So we turn around to head back to my house and the bike makes it a couple miles before dying. I get it started, figured maybe it was operator error as my buddy is new to bikes and such. Then it died again another mile down the road. It would start momentarily with the choke on, I ended up running home to get my truck, the bike was done. I had him order a carb kit, I'll start there with a rebuild and replace the plug as it looks overdue. I think this should solve the non-op issue. At the end of the day I would say the slider coming off saved our butts, because otherwise we would have been way up the North Cascade Highway with a bike that didn't want to run.
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I'll have to remember the time-sert®, looks like an easy and permanent fix for a bike.
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The guy on the cover is a local, rode with him once, except he decided to show up on a sled instead of a bike. I haven't been out much, poor visibility and tons of side projects have kept me off the mountain. I did pick up a new bike in the mean time, 2007 Yamaha YZ250.
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Jeep CJ-5 Disc Brake Conversion Details
53HiHood replied to kyle cj5's topic in Parts for Vintage (1941-71) Jeep Vehicles
Try The Jeep Guy for a disc/disc master cylinder. He's always at our big 4x4 swap meet in Washington, great parts and prices. http://www.the-jeep-guy.com/brakes.htm -
Well I got most everything mounted up. The Cycra guards with solution mount did not fit so I had to return those. I wish they would list any fitment issues to prevent customers from having to do their fitment checks for them and pay return shipping when their product didn't work. The grips seem good so far, they don't get super hot like the reviews said, I was running them at 75% in 45-50° weather without hand guards. Time will tell I guess. I'm not sold on the new Pro Taper Evo adventure bars, they are very similar height, bend, sweep, etc but a little narrower. I do think I'll be looking for a new seat, I'm starting to notice is a little too soft for longer rides. The IMS pegs are great. They aren't significantly bigger than the little stock pegs, but seem to work well with stand up riding. I guess there's some durability issues with one of the peg mounts, if dropped or layed over hard enough the mount itself will break. Not good. I'm not sure what pegs those guys are using, maybe the really big ones? Guess I'll keep an eye on this issue, maybe Honda will have a solution.
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I went ahead and ordered them. They claim under 4 amps.
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The seat is nice, but after a couple hours my backside gets tired. Could be from lack of miles in the seat I guess, I have only put 1300 miles on the bike since last June. The Oxford Heaterz adventure heated grips have great reviews, I might give them a shot.
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I ordered the IMS Pro Series pegs, new Pro Taper Evo Adventures bars, Cycra Pro Bend bark busters with the solutions mount, and forgot to order new grips. I went for a long ride on Tuesday, across the Puget Sound and down the Olympic Peninsula, and pegs, bars, and heated grips moved to the top of my priority list. Who makes a good set of heated grips?
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It's an incredible place. I rechecked the valves again after that last ride, which was probably the hardest I've ridden the bike since the rebuild, and again zero change. I pulled the plug again and it's just slightly darker. I was on the throttle a lot more that day and higher in the rpm's. I'm more comfortable with the color, it's in the middle of the two plug pictures in my earlier post. And the bike really feels like it has more power. My buddies KTM 450 can't keep up and won't climb near as well as my Honda. Obviously Honda makes a far superior motorcycle, but I was surprised at how much his bike struggled. Ride Red!
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That's up on Mt Baker, around 4500'. This is looking south at the Cascades.
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That would be fun. I'll start looking into it some more, that's the whole reason I bought this bike. I don't want it to spend it's life on the highway. Fall is optimal for my busy fire schedule, and a ride like this would do more for me than my usual 24 hour Fall race.
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I think the valves are fine, if there was any excessive wear from tight clearances it would be to the cam lobes or lifter buckets I would think. No noticeable irregularities. The valve check procedure for this bike is every 15 hours. Fairly simple; pull plastic shrouds, tank, seat, and valve cover. It's hard I would think to not get it onto TDC because it's the only place that there is free play in the exhaust rockers. The heat cycling was just two 5 minute idling periods with cool down in between to help seat the new parts. I checked the valves again at that point and adjusted the clearance. I should have checked them again after my first ride where the engine was put under load, as they do at the factory with a dyno run. I would have found they needed re-shimmed. I'll do that in the future with my rebuilds. The plug had 16 hours in the first picture and almost 18 in the second, it was installed during the rebuild. It's the same plug in both pictures. The only change made was dropping one size on the main jet. I always run premium (non-ethanol when I can find it) and as fresh of fuel as possible. It's a 12.5:1 C.R. engine so quality fuel is key. I treat my fuel with Sta-bil and sometimes I add Seafoam to a tank to keep the fuel system clean.
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Put a couple hours on the bike at Mt Baker today and it ran really great. Idle better, felt a littler more responsive off the bottom, and sounded better. Checked the valves just a bit ago and zero change in clearance. Checked the plug after doing one size on the main and it looks like what I have been taught a perfect plug should look like, cardboard brown. The darker plug was before, lighter after. The darker plug was uniform in color on the porcelain, the lighter plug only had color on the top half. Am I reading my plugs correctly? Which one is actually better?
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1966 Jeep CJ-5 Upgrades and Future Rebuild
53HiHood replied to MONTY's topic in Vintage Jeep® Vehicles 1941-71
Great looking Jeep Monty. I picked up a wiring harness from Rebel Wire for my Willys build. Quality wire with labeling at a great price. -
I talked with my racing buddy that also builds bikes about it again today. He said that since I reshimmed after running through heat cycles at idle rpm's and didn't recheck after properly loading the engine, I'm now seeing the actual seating of all the new parts. Maybe the Ti valves stretch a little during break in. He did tell me to go ride and recheck them again to see if the clearance changes or if they stay the same. Sounds logical. I guess we'll see.
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So far it's everything I wished my Multistrada was. Tall, low center of gravity, narrow, tractable power, feels lighter than an XR400, unique and aggressive sound, it's a Honda, the list goes on. Going from the CRF450R to the AT I feel right at home, very similar handling at speed. A racing friend of mine just invited me to join him on a Canada to Mexico ride next year. But I would like to get out on a big trip this year. Any good Backcountry does down in the desert lands?
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I picked up a new adventure bike back in June to replace my Ducati Multistrada I had sold. I haven't put many miles on it yet but so far I'm more than happy with the bike. I installed SW Motech crash bars and soft panniers. I also picked up a set of Mitas E07 Dakar tires that I'll install this spring. Next on my list will be IMS Pro Series foot pegs, AltRider skid plate, Cyclops Motorsports auxillary lights, and Cycra bark busters.
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I didn't notice how loud my bike was getting until someone mentioned it up on the mountain. I've never repacked this muffler so I got it done, gotta protect our riding areas. I also checked my valves tonight after another oil change. At 16 hours the exhaust valves were unchanged but the intake valves were extremely out of spec. I re-shimmed them at 0.1 hours following the heat cycle break-in and got them both right at spec at 0.16mm. They were at 0.02mm and 0.00mm. How could they have changed that much? All the hours were riding snow, not dirt. So I don't see that it could be wear from dirty air. Could the new seats not have been seated in the head properly? I'll have to call the machine company to get their thoughts. I'm interested to hear thoughts too Moses.
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It's a lot of trial and error with the engine jackets. I made mini covers for each radiator to fine-tune my temps for different scenarios, like if I'm riding down a groomed trail, climbing hills, or carving in powder. The switch could be done in under an hour I'm sure. I'm good about getting side-tracked so I think I spent a couple hours at least this last time because I was screwing around with other things on the bike. On the particular day I took that last picture I posted the snow was coming over the seat when I was going slow. Getting stuck was easy that day, but getting one of these unstuck is a much easier task than a snowmobile. Last week was great, blue skies every day. I found a little 20' drop early in the morning which resulted in a fender trim. Tough to not get distracted in such an incredible place but lesson learned.
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Haven't posted in awhile about the bike. I did end up building snowbike specific forks with stiffer springs, and after getting into them a lot deeper than I would like, they work great. No more bottoming. I've been out multiple times this winter already and the bike is running great. I made engine covers to keep operating temps up in the 180-215 range, a lot of riders don't understand the importance of this and end up with fuel in the oil and engine damage.
