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snoopy2x

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  1. Hi Mike, Just to consider as you're looking for a replacement timing cover....you may have read that the OEM-designed oil pumps for the 225, which are integral to the timing cover, were not particularly well reputed and tended to wear out over time. Though at $450 it's not cheap, TA Performance makes one for the 225 which includes a high-volume, adjustable-pressure oil pump that's designed to reduce the load on the camshaft: http://www.taperformance.com/proddetail.asp?prod=TA_1533 In addition, particularly since you're removing the old timing cover anyway, you might think about rep
  2. Ahmichigan, Thank you for posting the photos of the two bellcrank shaft frame brackets. That's the first time I've seen examples of the earlier and later brackets directly compared like that. The fact that the smaller threaded portion of the bellcrank shaft and retaining nut are the same size on both the earlier and later brackets (as is visible in your last photo) probably provides a clue that the reason for increasing the diameter of the bellcrank shaft in later models did not stem from a need to increase the shaft's bending or tensile strength. The more likely reason the Kaiser engi
  3. Ahmichigan, congratulations on finding a nearly pristine (after blasting, at least) frame bracket to work with! I hope your project turns out well. If you ever decide to convert your steering bellcrank to a modified tapered roller bearing type, I believe you'll find this mod to be a very substantial improvement over the original factory setup. The tapered roller bearings themselves are of course far more robust than the relatively delicate and much smaller needle bearings that were used on either the 7/8" or 1-1/8" versions of the factory bellcrank assemblies. This photo depicts one
  4. Hi Ahmichigan and Moses, As Moses mentioned, I have one of the tapered roller bearing modified bellcranks on my '67 CJ. Mine was built by Lawrence Elliott, who to the best of my knowledge was the original designer of this particular mod. It has been an extremely successful modification, with no downside issues at all that I've discovered. Lawrence is in his late 80's now and I don't believe he's still machining, as he told me a few years ago that mine is one of the very last modified bellcranks he made. However, as noted above in this thread, one of the members on the Early CJ-5 s
  5. Hi Moses, Well, it took me awhile, but I eventually found someone with an AMC 1971 Universal Parts List, and he was kind enough to scan and email the relevant pages. Below are those including the brake arm from my Kaiser Jeep 1966 Parts List, as well as the pages from the '71 list. From what I can tell, it doesn't appear that the brake arm pushrod stud had a separate part number in either case. Do you notice anything along those lines that I didn't?: 1966: 1971:
  6. That's an interesting thought, and is certainly a possibility. I don't know that Fred or I have an OEM bellcrank shaft to compare to the one from the kit, but maybe another member reading this does, and could provide a comparison. Thank you again for your help with all of this, Moses!
  7. Thanks very much, Moses, and I've sent Fred a link to your excellent analysis above. I asked him if the threaded part of the bellcrank pin that came with the kit had a hole drilled through it to accept a cotter pin, and he said it did. I can understand his and his mechanic's confusion. While the bellcrank pin has that hole, the self-locking nut (which resembles a castle nut, but has narrower slots) would not allow for the installation of a cotter pin through it without modifying the nut by widening the slots. It sounds like maybe the manufacturer of the bellcrank repair kit he purchased
  8. Your comment about self-locking nuts above got me to thinking about the shaft nut in the kit Fred used. Looking at the images shown in the link ( https://walcks4wd.com/bell-crank-kit-78-2a-3a-3b-cj5.html ), I wonder if the shaft nut that came in this kit, which visually correlates with Fred's description of having very narrow cotter pin slots, could actually have been intended by its manufacturer to be a self-locking nut, rather than a castle nut? Here's an enlarged image of the nut shown in one of the photos on the link:
  9. I just spoke with Fred, and he had a (different) mechanic put the jeep up on a lift today to try to figure out exactly what caused this failure. It appears that the mechanic who installed the mount and bellcrank assembly a couple of years ago made two separate mistakes during the installation. First, no cotter pin had been installed through the castle nut at the top of the pin. In fact, the mechanic who looked at the jeep today had to slightly grind some of the "crenelations" at the top of the castle nut in order to make them wide enough to accept even a small-diameter cotter pin.
  10. April 8, 2018 (almost 2 years after initial posts above) My brother in law Fred had a significant failure occur in his 1967 CJ5's steering system today. It could easily have been catastrophic if it had happened while he was on the road, instead of minutes later as he was pulling the jeep into his garage. He was extremely fortunate, to say the least. The shaft of the same steering bellcrank pictured above (in 2016) literally fell out onto his driveway this afternoon, immediately disabling the steering. Based on his photos below, it appears that the pinch bolt that clamps the mou
  11. Moses, your theory very well may be correct. The brake arm and the associated pin may have been differently numbered parts in the Kaiser Jeep Parts List. If so, this would explain the apparent discrepancy that the brake arms with the earlier smaller pins have the same part number as those with the later larger pins. Thanks very much for your feedback!
  12. I asked the machinist working on the bronze arm if it was cast or forged, and he's pretty certain it was forged, as there are no inclusions as would be expected with a casting. He also said it is definitely solid bronze, as opposed to being plated. As best I can determine, the CJ5 V6 brake arms were a one-off modification of the earlier brake arms used on other CJs and the M38 and M38A1. As NOS brake arms for the V6 are no longer available, a good fix for worn arms is to have them bushed. As you're well aware, the inevitable wear to the inside diameter of these arms causes brake pedal side
  13. The guy installing the bushing for me is an experienced machinist, and he had the same question about it possibly being plated, but concluded after some additional investigation that it is a solid bronze cast piece. I was intrigued by your thought that the bronze arm might possibly be a leftover M38A1 brake arm, and did a bit of investigation about this possibility. It turns out that though they are indeed very similar, the M38A1 brake arm is not identical to the CJ5 V6 brake arm. The two have different part numbers as well. Below is a shot of an M38A1 brake arm above a (cast steel)
  14. I sent what I believe to be my jeep's original brake arm to a machinist in Alabama who rebushes a lot of them for members of the Early CJ5 site. As it was being cleaned and then glass-beaded, he realized that unlike any others he had previously seen, this brake arm is made of bronze rather than steel. He started a thread about it with this photo: http://www.earlycj5.com/xf_cj5/index.php?threads/strange-brake-arm.129750/ Apparently, these solid bronze brake arms have been found on a number of '66 & '67 CJ5s (http://www.earlycj5.com/xf_cj5/index
  15. EchoWars, thanks, and I agree with both of your points. As for the second, having the same thought, I bought a bunch of extras of those particular filter elements on closeout. As I only drive my jeep 1000 miles or so a year, mostly on paved roads, I figure I can get by for another 30+ years using the air filters I have on hand. And since I kept my original stock oil bath air cleaner unit, I could always go back to that if I (or my son, who will eventually inherit the jeep) ever need to.
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