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rcomm3

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Everything posted by rcomm3

  1. rcomm3
    Well, last thursday came and went and no joy with starting the motor. As soon as I hooked up the battery cables, the parking lights came on. Turn the headlights on and the parking lights go out. Try to turn the engine over, and all I get is a click. So I now know I have gremlins.....Great. After a few calls to painless and some advice from friends, I have found out that painless wired thier harness wrong. The hazards and the turn signal flashers were switched. So I chased down what controlled what on the turn signal switch and switched the wires on the switch. Ok, that works, then the electric fuel pump isn't.....crud. Well I figured that out but now it doesnt shut off and Now I found fuel leaks at the regulator....damn. Ok, no problem, I'll just fix it later because I have also found what I think is a bad master cylinder on my clutch. I changed out the hose and now I can't get any pressure to pump the fluid to the slave. It seems to have pressure on the first pump of the pedal and then nothing. It goes to the floor and there is no resistance unless I leave it sit for a while then repeat. one pump then to the floor. I looked at where the push rod goes into the MC and it appears that the seal might be broken. Sooo as far as starting it, well not this week. Maybe next. Has anyone had this issue with the clutch before???
  2. rcomm3
    Ok, that's perfect. I have a buddy with a compression tester so that may be the way I go. I'll update on Thursday when I try to get this beast growling.
  3. rcomm3
    look, what I found....the owner won't sell but he also won't do anything with it. Gosh that kills me. Maybe the next project.....or stay married....HHHMMMMMM
  4. rcomm3
    Ok, some more progress even though it is "oh my gosh" hot out. I got the vent re-attached to the axle although it took a 3/8 tap. Apparently the hole has been tapped before. The wiring harness is in and the 7 circut accesory block is in as well. I've got some new pics to post. Moses, I got the process for timing from another post but is there a way to determine whether the #1 cylinder is at TDC on the compression stroke without taking off the valve cover? And since I don't have a mark for the #1 cylinder, do I just set the distributer rotor where I want the #1 position to be? Then make the wires correspond. Oh yeah, I figured out the whole fender strut issue......Feel like such a dope. Thanks, Rick
  5. rcomm3
    Oh and 1 more thing. What direction does the oil pump turn in order to prime the motor? I thought it was clockwise but I just want to make sure. Thanks
  6. rcomm3
    Moses, Ok, the port only goes in so far then stops. It doesn't seem to go all the way through to the bowl unless there is a right angle somewhere and it goes down but I couldn't find any evidence of that. I had a hard time seeing anything in there as it seems to back pretty far. In other news, I just finished (pretty much) installing the painless wire harness and am getting ready to get the motor started for the first time. I was looking at the rear and the vent hose has come ouyt of the port. I tried to get it back in but it appears the threads might be stripped on the axle end. Is there a fitting that just pushes in or will I need to find a fine threaded tap? Just to be sure, the vent hole for the rear axle is over by the passenger side tire right? Thanks Rick
  7. rcomm3
    I have another problem as well. I started this in October and that is when I took off all of the fender support struts, aaaaannnndd now I cannot for the life of me figure out how they go back on. I have 4 of the 6 on but there are 2 more that, well I just don't have a clue. Do you have a diagram on how they went in?
  8. rcomm3
    Moses, I found only one casting number on the carb. It says 38DGASM and then below it 16B. The port is not threaded so it would have to be a press in vent fitting, I think. I haven't called Clifford yet but I plan on it tomorrow. The casting number was located just below and to the side of the vaccum advance port on the carb next to the idle screw. I don't think there is an OEM appliction for this because I don't think the renix motors ever had carbueration. I THINK they were all fuel injected. The instructions did not mention anything about the vent and the model is the 38 DGAS/ES. If you need me to I can post a pic of the number. Thanks for your help. Rick
  9. rcomm3
    I don't know if you can use it but I have a radiator AND fan shroud from an 85 CJ 2.5L. The fan shroud has a few broken pieces but I can get a pic to you if you think you can use it. You can have them both I'll ship them to you if you cover the shipping. Rick
  10. rcomm3
    Ok, here is the pic of the carb. The bowl vent is in the center of the pic. I also got my new tunnel cover and shift boots.
  11. rcomm3
    Having it going by Labor Day would be fantastic. I hope I can live up to that. The electric fan is really just to get it going. I am still planning on the mecanical fan but I need to do some more research on it. Here is the crux of the problem. Originally on this motor the mech fan was mounted to the side and there was an electric fan to the other side due to the shape of the radiator. I am moving the fan to the center and the water pump mount has a wider spread on the bolt pattern at approx 3in. I have yet to find a spacer with that diameter and with the 1 1/8 pilot that I would need to mount it. I ws going to remove the fan clutch and run the fan constant with a spacer because with the fan clutch alone, the fan would hit the idler pullys. Plus the foot on the clutch barely fit with the wider bolt pattern on the water pump. I even called flexalite to see if they made something to help me and they did not have anything and did not know where I could find what i needed. Even with all of that said, the ultimate goal is to have a mechanical fan but for now, this will have to do. I do have a carb question. Do I need a fitting and hose on the float bowl vent or can I leave it as it came from the factory?
  12. rcomm3
    Thanks, it's been fun learning how to do this stuff albeit rather frustrating at times. The welding was a trip, but I can't say im sorry to have finished the welding on the sheet metal, what a pain in the butt. The body is painted with Chassis saver then I used tintable bedliner for the exterior and the herculiner on the interior. The engine mounts, once I got that all sorted out (Thanks Moses for your help on that) went on like a champ. They are the mountain offroad Bombproof mounts. The intake is Clifford Research kit which included the headers (dual exhaust) carb and fuel regulator and all hardware. The carb is the Weber 38 DGAS/ES and came all set up from Clifford. I am using a redline electric fuel pump mounted at the gas tank. I have however discovered that I am going to have to use an electric cooling fan instead of the mechanical fan. Not what I wanted to do but it should work since I put in an all aluminum 3 row core radiator that is rated for an 8cyl. I just dont have the space between my water pump pully and the radiator. I am rewiring the entire jeep with the painless set up and an additional 7 circut accessory block so I should have plenty of circut space for whatever I need. 60Bubba, thanks for posting on your oil pressure sender. I learned something there too. I need to get a fitting for a 90 degree elbow for mine as well as the sender itself. Which thanks to you I now know that I should grab one for a cj rather than one for the commanche, which is what this thing came out of. I have all of the old gauges from the 4cyl so I never would have thought of that. I did, however, grab a new tach considering the old one was for the 2.5l. No switches in the back of that one.
  13. rcomm3
    here are pics of the motor before and after, the old motor and the enormous amount of body work leading to where she sits now.......oh and the last pic is my wifes idea of a joke...the only working jeep at the house.
  14. rcomm3
    So, i haven't been on in some time due to the fact that I was not able to download any pictures. But.....I now have access to a laptop so now I can post the pics. to give some background, I bought a 1985 jeep CJ 7 back in September (and paid wwwaaaayyyy too much for it). I made the classic mistake of actually looking too hard at it and found a whole host of issues. It ended up needing major body work as well as an engine swap. I got an 88 renix inline six from a friend of mine and had it totally rebuilt and i have questions posted regarding that in earlier posts, Here are some of the pics leading up to where I'm at now. this is what I have for now .....I will post more and then get going with the questions as I have MANY.
  15. rcomm3
    Well, the motor is in and id post a pic but for some reason my tablet wont let me upload pics to the site. I do have a question. Will the DUI HEI distributer for the 232/258 work with the 242 as well? I thought it would but I am having some doubts even though I have found nothing to the contrary. as soon as the pilot bearing and transmission parts come in, I will be assembling the trans and motor. Cant wait, it is the hardest part of the whole build. Waiting for parts and being able to order them.
  16. rcomm3
    I hope you are right. I bit off a whole lot with this. I thought id lay out my plan for the rest of the build. Clifford intake kit DUI distributor aluminum 3 row core radiator (going with the mechanical fan. It gets pretty hot here). painless wiring harness Im going to run the 4.0 serpentine belt system so I will get the idler pullys and the ac compressor all set up since i have everythig except the pully for the ps pump. I have already gotten the ax 15 transmission and the novak kit to attach it to my dana 300. I also got the novak transmission mount. After I get the drivetrain done I have to get going on the body work which is going to be substantial. I need to replace the ds body mount as well as both floorpans, the riser and one inner wheel well. I plan on doing the interior with bed liner and prior to that chassis saver.
  17. rcomm3
    I am actually planning on using the Clifford Research intake and header kit. The kit includes the intake, dual exaust header(which I will y down to one), weber 2 bbl carb and reline fuel regulator with all of the gaskets needed. It is their 6-8 4.0 series. They are the only company that I could find that made the carb intake for that motor. Thanks for your help with this, I really appreciate it.
  18. rcomm3
    No problem once I figured out what my tablet was doing to me as far as being able to upload the pictures. still trying to get a thumbnail pic for my profile.
  19. rcomm3
    Moses, That is exactly the issue. I was going to find a bolt with the same diameter as the hole already drilled which, I believe is a SAE with a fine thread. This would allow me to use the 4.2 brackets and just slide them back a little on the motor. I do not have the knock sensor as it was gone before I got the motor. The engine is out of an 88 jeep commanche MJ. If I need the knock sensor then what you ar saying is that I can drill and tap one of the other unused holes in the block to accept the sensor, right? I am almost to the point of just selling this motor that I just had rebuilt and finding a rebuilt 4.2. Just totally exasperated. Thank You very much for your help with this, I know I'm being a pain but I am trying to play catch up with all of the tech knowledge. The engine bracket bolts are a 3/8 coarse thread and the sensor hole is a larger diameter with a fine thread pattern. Rick
  20. rcomm3
    Moses, I have the 4.2 engine brackets as well as the originals. I guess my question is, if I use the 4.2 brackets then I will have to move them back a little to fit the holes in the block. Consequently, one of the holes I will need to use is the hole for the knock sensor. This is located to the rear of the ds motor mount. I also have the frame side mounts for the 4.2 which I agree will be much easier but the whole knock sensor thing has got me questioning whether I should go that route. The PDF definitly will help if I go the 4.2 route but this motor seems to be a bit of an oddity because of the collaberation of the 2 companies that built it. Thanks
  21. rcomm3
    Here are the pics of the rear diff.
  22. rcomm3
    So I have been frantically searching for replacement frame tabs for a yj because those might actually work with my engines br*ckets. Im kind of at a loss here, very frustrated. does anyone know of any solutions here? Ok, figured out the photo issue. Mount issue next. these are the original engine side motor mounts. There are two holes to the rear of the motor mounts that line up with the 258 engine brackets but one of those holes is the hole for the knock sensor on the drivers side.
  23. rcomm3
    So I got a set of 258 engine brackets so I can use the engine mounts I bought, however the 258 brackets dont line up with the original engine bracket holes. If I move the 258 brackets back a little, then they will work but I would have to use a bolt where the knock sensor would have gone. Is this going to work? Otherwise I am (oing to have to return the frame mounts I bought. I guess my issue is that I just dont know enough to know what will work and what wont and will be disastrousif I go forward with it.
  24. rcomm3
    I was looking my 1985 Jeep CJ's amc 20 rear axle today and realized that there is no fill plug on the cover. How do you put any fluid in it after draining it? l'm definitely NOT an expert at this. Your advice?
  25. rcomm3
    Thanks for the info, I bought something that I thought was the right part but the diameter was wwwaaaaayyyyyy off. So thanks for the part number, I wont go wrong with that. This is going to sound like a really dumb question, but I was looking at my amc 20 rear today and realized that there is no fill plug on the cover. How in the smell do you put any fluid in it after draining it? like I said, im definitly NOT an expert in this.
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