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rcomm3

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About rcomm3

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    Advanced Member

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    southwest arizona
  • Interests
    Anything outdoors. And currently fixin the money muncher.

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  1. Well, last thursday came and went and no joy with starting the motor. As soon as I hooked up the battery cables, the parking lights came on. Turn the headlights on and the parking lights go out. Try to turn the engine over, and all I get is a click. So I now know I have gremlins.....Great. After a few calls to painless and some advice from friends, I have found out that painless wired thier harness wrong. The hazards and the turn signal flashers were switched. So I chased down what controlled what on the turn signal switch and switched the wires on the switch. Ok, that works, then the electric fuel pump isn't.....crud. Well I figured that out but now it doesnt shut off and Now I found fuel leaks at the regulator....damn. Ok, no problem, I'll just fix it later because I have also found what I think is a bad master cylinder on my clutch. I changed out the hose and now I can't get any pressure to pump the fluid to the slave. It seems to have pressure on the first pump of the pedal and then nothing. It goes to the floor and there is no resistance unless I leave it sit for a while then repeat. one pump then to the floor. I looked at where the push rod goes into the MC and it appears that the seal might be broken. Sooo as far as starting it, well not this week. Maybe next. Has anyone had this issue with the clutch before???
  2. Ok, that's perfect. I have a buddy with a compression tester so that may be the way I go. I'll update on Thursday when I try to get this beast growling.
  3. look, what I found....the owner won't sell but he also won't do anything with it. Gosh that kills me. Maybe the next project.....or stay married....HHHMMMMMM
  4. Ok, some more progress even though it is "oh my gosh" hot out. I got the vent re-attached to the axle although it took a 3/8 tap. Apparently the hole has been tapped before. The wiring harness is in and the 7 circut accesory block is in as well. I've got some new pics to post. Moses, I got the process for timing from another post but is there a way to determine whether the #1 cylinder is at TDC on the compression stroke without taking off the valve cover? And since I don't have a mark for the #1 cylinder, do I just set the distributer rotor where I want the #1 position to be? Then make the wires correspond. Oh yeah, I figured out the whole fender strut issue......Feel like such a dope. Thanks, Rick
  5. Oh and 1 more thing. What direction does the oil pump turn in order to prime the motor? I thought it was clockwise but I just want to make sure. Thanks
  6. Moses, Ok, the port only goes in so far then stops. It doesn't seem to go all the way through to the bowl unless there is a right angle somewhere and it goes down but I couldn't find any evidence of that. I had a hard time seeing anything in there as it seems to back pretty far. In other news, I just finished (pretty much) installing the painless wire harness and am getting ready to get the motor started for the first time. I was looking at the rear and the vent hose has come ouyt of the port. I tried to get it back in but it appears the threads might be stripped on the axle end. Is there a fitting that just pushes in or will I need to find a fine threaded tap? Just to be sure, the vent hole for the rear axle is over by the passenger side tire right? Thanks Rick
  7. I have another problem as well. I started this in October and that is when I took off all of the fender support struts, aaaaannnndd now I cannot for the life of me figure out how they go back on. I have 4 of the 6 on but there are 2 more that, well I just don't have a clue. Do you have a diagram on how they went in?
  8. Moses, I found only one casting number on the carb. It says 38DGASM and then below it 16B. The port is not threaded so it would have to be a press in vent fitting, I think. I haven't called Clifford yet but I plan on it tomorrow. The casting number was located just below and to the side of the vaccum advance port on the carb next to the idle screw. I don't think there is an OEM appliction for this because I don't think the renix motors ever had carbueration. I THINK they were all fuel injected. The instructions did not mention anything about the vent and the model is the 38 DGAS/ES. If you need me to I can post a pic of the number. Thanks for your help. Rick
  9. I don't know if you can use it but I have a radiator AND fan shroud from an 85 CJ 2.5L. The fan shroud has a few broken pieces but I can get a pic to you if you think you can use it. You can have them both I'll ship them to you if you cover the shipping. Rick
  10. Ok, here is the pic of the carb. The bowl vent is in the center of the pic. I also got my new tunnel cover and shift boots.
  11. Having it going by Labor Day would be fantastic. I hope I can live up to that. The electric fan is really just to get it going. I am still planning on the mecanical fan but I need to do some more research on it. Here is the crux of the problem. Originally on this motor the mech fan was mounted to the side and there was an electric fan to the other side due to the shape of the radiator. I am moving the fan to the center and the water pump mount has a wider spread on the bolt pattern at approx 3in. I have yet to find a spacer with that diameter and with the 1 1/8 pilot that I would need to mount it. I ws going to remove the fan clutch and run the fan constant with a spacer because with the fan clutch alone, the fan would hit the idler pullys. Plus the foot on the clutch barely fit with the wider bolt pattern on the water pump. I even called flexalite to see if they made something to help me and they did not have anything and did not know where I could find what i needed. Even with all of that said, the ultimate goal is to have a mechanical fan but for now, this will have to do. I do have a carb question. Do I need a fitting and hose on the float bowl vent or can I leave it as it came from the factory?
  12. Thanks, it's been fun learning how to do this stuff albeit rather frustrating at times. The welding was a trip, but I can't say im sorry to have finished the welding on the sheet metal, what a pain in the butt. The body is painted with Chassis saver then I used tintable bedliner for the exterior and the herculiner on the interior. The engine mounts, once I got that all sorted out (Thanks Moses for your help on that) went on like a champ. They are the mountain offroad Bombproof mounts. The intake is Clifford Research kit which included the headers (dual exhaust) carb and fuel regulator and all hardware. The carb is the Weber 38 DGAS/ES and came all set up from Clifford. I am using a redline electric fuel pump mounted at the gas tank. I have however discovered that I am going to have to use an electric cooling fan instead of the mechanical fan. Not what I wanted to do but it should work since I put in an all aluminum 3 row core radiator that is rated for an 8cyl. I just dont have the space between my water pump pully and the radiator. I am rewiring the entire jeep with the painless set up and an additional 7 circut accessory block so I should have plenty of circut space for whatever I need. 60Bubba, thanks for posting on your oil pressure sender. I learned something there too. I need to get a fitting for a 90 degree elbow for mine as well as the sender itself. Which thanks to you I now know that I should grab one for a cj rather than one for the commanche, which is what this thing came out of. I have all of the old gauges from the 4cyl so I never would have thought of that. I did, however, grab a new tach considering the old one was for the 2.5l. No switches in the back of that one.
  13. here are pics of the motor before and after, the old motor and the enormous amount of body work leading to where she sits now.......oh and the last pic is my wifes idea of a joke...the only working jeep at the house.
  14. So, i haven't been on in some time due to the fact that I was not able to download any pictures. But.....I now have access to a laptop so now I can post the pics. to give some background, I bought a 1985 jeep CJ 7 back in September (and paid wwwaaaayyyy too much for it). I made the classic mistake of actually looking too hard at it and found a whole host of issues. It ended up needing major body work as well as an engine swap. I got an 88 renix inline six from a friend of mine and had it totally rebuilt and i have questions posted regarding that in earlier posts, Here are some of the pics leading up to where I'm at now. this is what I have for now .....I will post more and then get going with the questions as I have MANY.
  15. Well, the motor is in and id post a pic but for some reason my tablet wont let me upload pics to the site. I do have a question. Will the DUI HEI distributer for the 232/258 work with the 242 as well? I thought it would but I am having some doubts even though I have found nothing to the contrary. as soon as the pilot bearing and transmission parts come in, I will be assembling the trans and motor. Cant wait, it is the hardest part of the whole build. Waiting for parts and being able to order them.
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