transporter

Moses, thanks for the info...See below: *I did change the input shaft on the nv 4500 from 1 1/4" to 1 1/8" *Installed special needle pilot pushing from advance adapters *Stock pressure plate *AA recommended clutch disc *clutch fork was shortened to prevent interference with frame * Master slave cylinder has been adjusted so the full stroke of the clutch pedal is used

Hello folks after a few months of installing shocks and trans and brakes and all the goodies and pretty much all set up. I'm down to the last problem hopefully which is the clutch I have mated a 85 ish F-150 bellhousing to the 5.0 motor and its basically all F-150 components including the 85 F150 master cylinder and slave cylinder so here's the problem I can shift gears but very difficult to go in first (note brand NV 4500 5-speed transmission) when I'm in low low range the clutch slips I have replaced the master cylinder with a 7/8 bore and I have installed a adjustment threaded shaft in the slave cylinder so I can infinitely adjust the slave cylinder movement to no avail

I want to shorten my shackles that came on my project, I don't need that much lift and arc/movement. Does anyone see a problem with cutting and welding them to make them shorter. Please review pictures. Note. I did this task on a raised F250 on the front shackles and was successful.

Do you have any recommendations for a larger bore and longer stroke Master clutch cylinder Thx for your time, pete

Hello Moses thanks for the reply. The hydralic outfit has been sitting in a box for 12 years and it's for a 1987 Ford F150 set up and worked in many conversions I bet you're right on that one of the seals bad if it's sad that long Thxx

Thanks for the info I just welded additional piece on the master cylinder clutch pedal about another three eighths of an inch longer rod and it now moves the slave cylinder rod another whopping eighth of an inch. New slave cylinder distance half inch movement. Thx pete

Moses thanks for the engineering detail overview the question is specifically will three eighths of an inch be enough to disengage the clutch this would be the movement in the clutch Fork

I am installing a 5.0 Mustang motor in my 85' 4Runner, (engine and drivetrain installed, NV4500 trans, dual t-case crawler box, with external parking brake at driveshaft). The discussion at hand is how far should the clutch rod move into the master clutch cylinder in relation to the slave cylinder movement to move the clutch rod via the clutch fork. Another way to look at this is once the throw-out bearing makes contact to the clutch pressure plate fingers, how far should the clutchfork move in to disengage the clutch properly? Notes: F150 Bellhousing, Luke pressure plate, 11" Centerforce clutch disk, special Advance Adapters pilot bearing, Throw-out bearing?, Clutch slave assembly Raybestos SC37745, Clutch master cylinder assembly Raybestos CMA39560 kit including preformed fluid line (for late model Jeep), custom slave cylinder support, custom slave cylinder rod about 8.5" long, highly modified clutch fork (shortened about 1"). "This discussion might involve leverage and physics volume of pistons, fluid displacement and pedal lever force" as Moses suggested.

Hey Moses, Just a quick note, After thoroughly reviewing your pictures, I remember using the claimshell method back in the mid 80's, when I rebuilt a 1976 CJ5 and put a Fiberglass body, windshield, and hood on it. I built a full cage and claim shelled it and used 1/2" thick rubber to insulate the install, the odd note is/was I could not torque down the bolts as tight as I wanted to or the insulation would not work.

Thank you, for taking the time to prepare copies for me. I had your books years ago, I've moved so many times lost them and lent them out. Guess I will order them and read them all over again! Next discussion is going to be hydraulic clutch.need to figure out upper and lower rod lengths... all custom

Hello Moses can you send me a couple pictures of the clamshell technique

Hi moses, the 1.5 x 3" tubing is welded to the outside of the frame (embedded). Also the part that was cut out was boxed with plate.

I hope were not taking too much of your time by answering all these fundamental questions that I've already dealt with in the past with other builds but it's nice to reflect with a professional that's already done it as I've already made a lot of mistakes with my other builds and learned a lot. going forward the next question on the board is I'm building seat brackets and I want to incorporate inch and a quarter or inch and an eight square tube for the shoulder harness brackets and seat mounts and I might do a cage by building off the seat bracket... I did this years ago with my 66 big block Corvette and it passed safety inspection with flying colors for weekend track use. Of course the bottom of the brackets will be welded to 1/8 inch plate and bolted to the floor and the floor will be reinforced underneath with additional steel tubing around the body to frame mounts. I want the theme to be square tubing because it's so much easier to work with I will build some kind of Sliders front and rear bumpers out of similar tubing I built a 2" od round tube cage before for my 88 Wrangler back in the early 90's and it took forever cutting and fitting the radius and bending the tube. Pictured notching and welding additional inch and a half by 3 inch square tubing to strengthen frame

Moses, thx for the info, ALL the info! Good welding tips, an analogy. After 3 attempts to mate the trans to engine, I threw in the towel. I tested the old input shaft and the clutch align tool and they both measured .745" od. The new In put shaft that I assumed was correct measured .755" od. The needle bearing measured. 749 id. "Dah, it's not going to fit. Called AA today, they are sending a new pilot bearing, I wish they would send a new input shaft instead. With that said, I will move on past the lower shock mounts to the uppers... they need to be angled 1 degree back toward the shackle for every inch of shock travel? Would you agree? Note- 4.5mb pics won't upload

It's been 22 years since I upgraded my long gone 87 Wrangler 231 transfer case tail shaft conversion and driveshaft are there any newer better kits out there thinking about upgrading the 93 4 liter 5 speed Wrangler tail-shaft area

Thanks Moses the first order of concern is installing the engine and transmission combo I am using the Ford F-150 bellhousing the Ford 164 tooth flywheel the Chevy 11 inch clutch Ford pressure plate and special three-quarter inch ID pilot bushing from advance adapters after three unsuccessful engine to transmission installs with this rig, i cannot mate the transmission into the engine for the life of me I have multiple cherry pickers engine hoist and floor jacks to make the job easier and still won't go together. I just pulled the engine back out and recheck the depth of the input shaft the I'd of the pilot bearing and cross-checked everything I can possibly think of. I am not a spring chicken to engine installs. this is got to be the worst install ever. Another question if you have another minute I need to start thinking about my front lower shock mounts I'm going to be installing 12 inch 2.0 Fox Reservoir shocks the only place I can think of installing the lower amount would be on the upper axle outer flange if I will do this will the Heat goof up the hardening of the axle?

Success... used the old Seafoam, used 1/3 can down throttle body until engine died, pour some more in, let stand 20 min, start back up, white smoke for 5 to 10 minutes... now runs like a champ!

I just recently purchased this project that sat for 12 years, motor was never installed... the major problem for me personally is to make this project CA smog legal and get the referee to sign off on it. I think I have most of the smog stuff, cats, smog pump, vacuum switches, hoses, tank canister, lines. After compiling huge amounts of research info on engine wiring, emissions, their has got to be a easier solution then to hunt and peck to piece the mustang motor to computer and adapt to Toyota, any suggestions for documentation including your own books would be great. *Thought about using wiring harnesses from painless wiring or Ford performance but they do not support emissions. *So far I have cut the frame to make room for the exhaust to clear the frame rails and boxed and reinforced it. *Installed special pilot bearing to except new input shaft, bell housing, stock Ford pressure plate, 11" centerforce clutch, stock throughout bearing, changed out the 1 1\4 10 spline HD Dodge NV4500 trans input and retainer to a 1 1/8" 10 spline shaft and retainer, and readapted using AA adapter to Marlin Crawler dual t-case set up. *Cut out trans tunnel area additionally to better except the tcase and trans. *Cut out the rear inner front fenders to except larger tires *will cut rear fenders next *dry fit engine and trans and tcase, TOO heavy and tall for the front end loader of tractor to install, separated trans from motor and wanted to lower engine 2" than aftermarket engine mounts would allow, but not enough clearance for hydraulic clutch slave cylinder set up, (what is the lowest angle that the trans motor can sit, obviously tilting engine down in back to clear tunnel)? *What angle to install front shocks, have to cycle front end to find end travel point, make and install bump stops, then go from there (front shocks have 12" total travel) *fuel tank - going to attempt to use the original EFI tank and put a electric fuel pump in line and possibly wire up stock in tank pump to pull fuel from pump to new in line pump. (note: someone suggested to put a 1 gallon reserve tank in engine compartment or under fender area to hold fuel pumped by stock pump and plumb high pressure pump to supply fuel to motor (this was suggested to prevent fuel starvation when going over steep inclines (but do not know if referee will pass this design) *need to install engine and drive train front winch, seats to see how rig will sit, I wanted to keep low center of gravity, but cannot lower engine any more, cannot use a lower body lift because of clearances, so may end up remove some leaf springs? MORE TO COME with pictures. Parts already have: *Toyota front axle with 1 ton outers, brakes and axles, ARB and 5.29 gears *Toyota rear axle with 1 ton brakes, axles, bearings ARB and 5.29 gears *1995 5.0 mustang motor, CARB approved headers, 92 wire harness and A9P computer *New NV4500 5 speed, just install the smaller 1 1/8" 10 spline input shaft and retainer collar *Marlin Crawler dual transfer cases *Tom Woods drive shafts *2.0 Fox reservoir shocks (12" front, 14" rear) *front springs 9 leafs with orbital front and rear balls military wrap grease able *rear springs 1 leafs with orbital front and rear balls military wrap grease able 1.5" body lift Pete

Moses, in the interum and after watching all the YouTube videos and researching the throttle position sensor my measured voltage is .78 volts throttle plate closed and 3.7 volts at wide open throttle. Seems to be correct parameters from my research. Thoroughly cleaned the throttle body which was really impacted with dirt. Now onto researching the O2 sensor and then the map sensor and then finally investigating the vacuum lines for leaks. Stand by, installing 5.0 motor in 4runner.

Hi moses I appreciate your post response as always. a brand new California exhaust system was installed prior to purchasing this Jeep brand new header downpipe catalytic converter and some sort of performance muffler that actually sounds pretty good for the six-cylinder. No codes have been set, I will definitely check out your excellent suggestions, standby I will do some troubleshooting and get back to you thanks Pete

Hey Folks, The wife just bought a 93 Wrangler 99k on the odometer. (Slight problem after shifting to 2nd or 3rd gear and give it gas (doesn't matter how much) - the Jeep surges (or bucks). An exceptionally clean machine. Previous owner just installed a New clutch, water pump, radiator, battery, rear springs, CA smogged... 35's, 4.56 gears, spring over 4" super lift (yes a stiff ride),front True Trac with cable engagement, rear Lock rite locker, 5 speed. I went over the Jeep with a fine tooth comb - made new bracket for front track bar and installed it, installed new rear mount for rear track bar bracket, new rear shocks, made my own transfer case torque rod bracket, recabled winch, ignition cut off switch, remounted spare tire to rear bumper... and on and on. So, I thought I would start here before I started trouble shooting the bucking or surging issue, to see if anyone had any ideas. The previous owner said it started when the rear lock rite was installed. I have owned a lot of Jeeps and cannot figure this one out. Thanks for any input. Pete

What's your opinion about adding dually wheels and some fenders to my current 06 dodge ram 3 quarter ton single rear wheel setup I've seen it done many times but would like your opinion... thx, Pete

For discussion... What is the best way to set up the 2006 Dodge Ram 2500 Diesel 4x4 for heavy towing and hauling. Quad Cab/short bed. Specifically with Truck Camper and trailer. The following additions help the ride for the most part and it is a safe combo, however it is not perfect... yet. Note: Fuel mileage for the combo is a solid 13 flat/mountains highway average 62 MPH. Note: I used to haul professionally with a previous 2004.5 dodge dually and now above mentioned, the trucks worked great for bumper pull and 5th wheel experiences up to the 13,500 lb max rating, however the truckcamper is a different breed because there is so much weight in the bed and it is top heavy and you don't need sails, its like driving a billboard down the highway on windy days, so needless to say you have to stay focused. The dually is a much better choice, but I don't have it anymore... I haul a 1,800 lb Lance model 825 Truck Camper in my 6.5' bed (truck weighs 6800 lbs) Advertised Gross truck weight is 9000 lbs (2,000 ish lbs in bed depending on 30 gallons water and 35 gallons waste) and towing a 7'x16' dual axle Interstate LoadRunner trailer (trailer weights 1,800lbs, plus 1,200 lbs cargo) trailer weight is loaded 3,000 lbs. (8 ply trailer tires) Advertised Gross Combined Vehicle Weight limit is 20,000 lbs. * Firestone Airbags (5,000 lb ratings) with in cab controller for the compressor. Note: I made my own pad for the bags to sit on directly above the U-bolts on top of the axle, and this worked great because the bags were as far to the outside of the axle as possible, thus preventing the heavy camper to sway - however, when I was experimenting with tire chain installation the chains were dangerously close to rubbing, so I moved the setup in board similar to after market bag locations and they don't work as well. Note: I normally carry 38 psi in each bag when fully loaded *Torklift stableloads (these devices are a wedge pack that are manually rotated into and between the lower part of the leaf spring pack and above the single bottom overload spring on front and rear of each leaf spring pile (they make the spring pack come in contact with the overload sooner), when you are done with your heavy load, you swing them out of the way and lock them into place. Note: They work fantastic for pulling very heavy 5th wheel trailers. *Helwig rear Sway bar *Bilstein 5100 series shocks (in rear) and new Rancho adjustable XL in front (work much better than Bilsteins in front because you can adjust the ride when unloaded! *285x 70 x17 10 ply BFG All Terrain tires on stock wheels, carry 65lbs in front, 70 lbs in rear loaded, 55lbs front, 48 lbs rear unloaded *Solid ball mount with load distribution hitch rated at 10,000 lbs set on 7 links *Reese 18,000 2.5" receiver hitch bolted to truck frame in place of factory frame mounted hitch *Reese 2.5' extended hitch (to set ball mount hitch behind camper) safety chains from frame hitch to ball mount, and cross chained ball mount to frame (similar to superhitch setup) thx, Pete

Wow moses, what a truly unique detailed overview of the "pull to the right syndrome", you gave some input that I never really thought about. The truck does not pull on newer non-crowned concrete, so after reviewing your reply, I will leave the alignment alone. I paid a lot of money for my Carli lifetime balljoints, and I don't want to mess with them to create an offset. Thx again for schooling me. Pete

Hello moses, A while back we touched on the truck possibly doing well after all the measurements and adjustments the truck pulls slightly to the right do you have any suggestions to remedy that. I haven't given this a whole lot of thought I thought I'd ask the experts before I contemplate the adjustment at hand. Thx, and happy new year Pete