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transporter

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  1. Moses, thanks for the info...See below: *I did change the input shaft on the nv 4500 from 1 1/4" to 1 1/8" *Installed special needle pilot pushing from advance adapters *Stock pressure plate *AA recommended clutch disc *clutch fork was shortened to prevent interference with frame * Master slave cylinder has been adjusted so the full stroke of the clutch pedal is used
  2. Hello folks after a few months of installing shocks and trans and brakes and all the goodies and pretty much all set up. I'm down to the last problem hopefully which is the clutch I have mated a 85 ish F-150 bellhousing to the 5.0 motor and its basically all F-150 components including the 85 F150 master cylinder and slave cylinder so here's the problem I can shift gears but very difficult to go in first (note brand NV 4500 5-speed transmission) when I'm in low low range the clutch slips I have replaced the master cylinder with a 7/8 bore and I have installed a adjustment threaded shaft in the
  3. I want to shorten my shackles that came on my project, I don't need that much lift and arc/movement. Does anyone see a problem with cutting and welding them to make them shorter. Please review pictures. Note. I did this task on a raised F250 on the front shackles and was successful.
  4. Hello Moses thanks for the reply. The hydralic outfit has been sitting in a box for 12 years and it's for a 1987 Ford F150 set up and worked in many conversions I bet you're right on that one of the seals bad if it's sad that long Thxx
  5. Thanks for the info I just welded additional piece on the master cylinder clutch pedal about another three eighths of an inch longer rod and it now moves the slave cylinder rod another whopping eighth of an inch. New slave cylinder distance half inch movement. Thx pete
  6. Moses thanks for the engineering detail overview the question is specifically will three eighths of an inch be enough to disengage the clutch this would be the movement in the clutch Fork
  7. I am installing a 5.0 Mustang motor in my 85' 4Runner, (engine and drivetrain installed, NV4500 trans, dual t-case crawler box, with external parking brake at driveshaft). The discussion at hand is how far should the clutch rod move into the master clutch cylinder in relation to the slave cylinder movement to move the clutch rod via the clutch fork. Another way to look at this is once the throw-out bearing makes contact to the clutch pressure plate fingers, how far should the clutchfork move in to disengage the clutch properly? Notes: F150 Bellhousing, Luke pressure plate, 11" Centerforce
  8. Hey Moses, Just a quick note, After thoroughly reviewing your pictures, I remember using the claimshell method back in the mid 80's, when I rebuilt a 1976 CJ5 and put a Fiberglass body, windshield, and hood on it. I built a full cage and claim shelled it and used 1/2" thick rubber to insulate the install, the odd note is/was I could not torque down the bolts as tight as I wanted to or the insulation would not work.
  9. Thank you, for taking the time to prepare copies for me. I had your books years ago, I've moved so many times lost them and lent them out. Guess I will order them and read them all over again! Next discussion is going to be hydraulic clutch.need to figure out upper and lower rod lengths... all custom
  10. Hi moses, the 1.5 x 3" tubing is welded to the outside of the frame (embedded). Also the part that was cut out was boxed with plate.
  11. I hope were not taking too much of your time by answering all these fundamental questions that I've already dealt with in the past with other builds but it's nice to reflect with a professional that's already done it as I've already made a lot of mistakes with my other builds and learned a lot. going forward the next question on the board is I'm building seat brackets and I want to incorporate inch and a quarter or inch and an eight square tube for the shoulder harness brackets and seat mounts and I might do a cage by building off the seat bracket... I did this years ago with my 66 big block C
  12. Moses, thx for the info, ALL the info! Good welding tips, an analogy. After 3 attempts to mate the trans to engine, I threw in the towel. I tested the old input shaft and the clutch align tool and they both measured .745" od. The new In put shaft that I assumed was correct measured .755" od. The needle bearing measured. 749 id. "Dah, it's not going to fit. Called AA today, they are sending a new pilot bearing, I wish they would send a new input shaft instead. With that said, I will move on past the lower shock mounts to the uppers... they need to be angled 1 degree back toward the shackl
  13. It's been 22 years since I upgraded my long gone 87 Wrangler 231 transfer case tail shaft conversion and driveshaft are there any newer better kits out there thinking about upgrading the 93 4 liter 5 speed Wrangler tail-shaft area
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