BadDriver4x4

Emily, I started welding in High School through our Ag program many many years ago, and then I took a small group class in advanced welding at a local technical school. I have oxy-acetylene sets, a MIG welder, a couple of small stick welders, and I just picked up a small amperage Flux Core Wire welder, but I didn't understand what the instructors were trying to show me because I just couldn't see it, or grasp the techniques. Sure, I can weld a pretty decent bead, and I have little experience with brazing, but it takes lots of practice to master that art. I have also self-studied blacksmithing to understand the concepts of welding, but the one thing I've done that gave me the best understanding of welding was to get involved with the Accelerated Technical Training Institute. http://www.acceleratedtechnicaltraininginstitute.com/ They have a DVD welding course that is accredited through the Idaho State Board of Education. You can do it at your own pace, and I suggest buying a 90 Ampere Flux Core Welder from Harbor Freight which is less than $100.00 US most of the time, and you can find specials from time to time. Mine was just over $95.00 S&H included from a Thanksgiving Day sale. Do the DVD course and you will really see what you are supposed to see that is important about welding. Pick up some scrap metal and practice. Then if you need a professional level advanced course you will be far ahead of the rest of the class. My former career was as an electronics technician in the U.S. Air Force a lifetime ago. Knowing how to wind the core of the welder won't help you to understand the process of welding any better. But if you buy the DVD course the DVDs are always there for you to study again and again. It really will make a difference that only hands on practice can rival. If you're asking yourself how to do everything you need to do, just go to Harbor Freight Tools get the welder and a 4 1/2 inch grinder to do the cutting and grinding. The prices are so good you can probably afford 2 so you don't have to keep changing wheels. Make sure you have a 20 Amp outlet for the Flux Core Welder and get the automatic darkening welding helmet and the proper safety clothing. You didn't say whether you live in an apartment or home, so you will have to make adjustments as to where you do your practice. The advantage to the Flux Core Welder is that you don't need a gas bottle, although the welding wire is a little more expensive, OK, so it's about 4 times as much, but still affordable. Buy your Flux Core Welding Wire locally as I've heard that the Harbor Freight wire is not great quality. (Read the reviews) Now, you should buy a welding cap, a welding jacket, and learn to wear the proper clothes. I was doing a simple home plumbing project and found out what solder can do when it catches under your watch because you're not wearing gloves or a shirt with sleeves. A very painful lesson. I've also had a little welding burn (like sunburn) because I was wearing short sleeves again, that was before I took the time to learn to wear the proper protective clothing. All of this is covered in the DVD course from ATTI. Even if this course can't get you credits in Canada it is well worth the money to do it. There may be better instructors, but learning the secrets to good welding (and brazing) is never easier than seeing it at your own pace in a way ensured to get through to your senses. By the way, if you read this soon the best quality 4 1/2 inch grinders are $17.99 from Harbor Freight right now, although the 90 Amp welder is up to $109.99. A little tip is to look for the Chicago Electric, and Central Forge (I guess they're now Pittsburgh) tools. They seem to be the better quality tools, and I've been buying from Harbor Freight for over 20 years. I'm sure there are others here that should share their experience with you to be sure you have as many options as possible. Good luck and Merry Christmas.

http://burlington.craigslist.org/ptd/5359959783.html I know that old Jeeps have value, but are they insane? I've seen better piles of rusted metal in a dumpster. Is there something particularly rare here that I'm missing?

For some reason I can't ask a new question in this area of the forum, which doesn't bother me too much as this is question is of a sensitive nature. Is there a way to defeat the seat belt alarm by removing a particular fuse, without disabling the engine? My name is Bad Driver isn't it? Still talking about the 2005 LIberty. I do know where there is a set of norml black steel wheels that are center offset. Would those be suitable to compensate with a small lift? I like the lift you linked to it looks well made at a decent price point.

Strike two. Crack in frame on driver's side just ahead of the leaf spring mount. I still remember the springs through the floors of the Cherokees. There was also a lot more rust than the pictures lead you to believe. You have to look carefully, but I didn't get past the completely gone rockers and the crack in the frame. Floor had holes in the front outside corners as well. Never heard it run or opened the hood. Oh, and the driver's side door dropped when opened. On a 4 door that is a pretty bad sign. Rear doors opened stiffly like they had been rusted shut and just loosened up. I hope these observations and the suggestions from Ralph 77 can help other Rust Zone buyers to pick out the better Cherokees in the future.

Since I'm shopping around, and I have a 2000 Cherokee Sport in my sights, are there any particular things I should look at other than the obviously rotted rocker panels? If the frame is good and the engine runs well are there any other points that need checking? Suspension, electrical, door hinges, brakes, etc... that are usual spots where trouble comes from? No this isn't the other 2000 Cherokee Sport, this one had a higher price tag that I think I have made good progress with. I'll give details when (if) I can show pictures of my (my daughters ??) Cherokee Sport. I just don't want to go down the path of replacing a lot of things on a vehicle that should be a little more patch and go. I know this is dumb question, but should I pick up a copy of your Jeep Owner's Bible to help with these and other Jeep Questions?

Well, I guess I'm getting ahead of myself a little bit. I like the lift kit you linked to. It's in the right price range too. The problem now is that I might have to replace a rear upper control arm. The one in the Liberty now is pretty well shot. I also need to find out if the lower control arms have been replaced under the recall. It would probably be a good idea to make sure I don't meet a guard rail due to the wobble of death before I change the height of the Jeep. Who came up with that design? As for widening the track, will a simple set of wheel adapters do the job? I suppose there is a quick way and a right way. I'm beginning to think I jumped into this deal without all my ducks in a row, but sometimes you take a leap of faith hoping you come out ahead. The Dodge\Chrysler wheels fit well and I'll get some pictures up as soon as we get a decent day to take them.

I'd like to get a 2 1/2" lift on my Liberty pretty soon to deal with the snow we should be getting any day now. What is the best setup in order to be safe, have good road performance, and not do major changes to the geometry? I wouldn't mind if it were on the lower end of the price range as well, but safety and reliability are more important. I also have a related question about wheels and tire sizes I found a set of 16" Aluminum Dodge wheels and some great "used" Cooper M+S tires at a fantastic price, but the tires are P225 70 R16 instead of P235 70 R16. According to charts this is not an unacceptable difference, but what can I really expect from the tire size difference and the Dodge car wheels? We decided this was going to be the best bet for good winter tires quick. My cousin also owns the Used Parts yard where we're buying the wheels and tires so I have no doubts about the quality of the wheels or tires which I have looked at, and we fitted the wheels to be sure they would work before going ahead with mounting the tires and tire balance. Now we have time to get some good "All Season" tires for next summer.

Thanks Moses, I'll try to keep the dealer honest. As it is we need a new set of tires as a result of our deal. He might as well inspect it too as part of the repairs and if he doesn't we won't be driving it for long.

I'm done! After trying to get a deal made on this Jeep and get the time to go check it out it's GONE! The next time I post a Jeep here it will be my pictures, but for those out there who think there are no unmolested Jeeps that can be had for a song, I hope I have inspired you to get out and look.

I was only able to pull one code from my Liberty it is a P0175 02 Circuit Low Voltage (Bank 2 Sensor 2) The Haynes manual says: P0175 System too rich (bank 2). What exactly is going on? The check engine light went out for a while today and it has been very cold. I also had a small fuel spill the first time I filled the tank and it seemed odd that there was no overflow catch. Of course the pump should have shut off, but it didn't immediately. My wife confirmed what I noticed when looking at this Liberty before purchase, it needs new tires pretty badly. The outside look like there's plenty of tread, but the center is very worn and we got some snow today. My experience with 4x4s (Including a 4x4 Subaru Station wagon, our first car after we got married.) is that 4x4s on ice just spin all 4 wheels in totally unpredictable ways if you don't know how to compensate.

Moses, There is a 2003 Chevy Tracker with what looks like a beautiful body locally for $500.00. The immediate problems? A shock mount has disintegrated, and a rust hole in the front frame member. Would this vehicle be worth the work to get it back on the road if the sheet metal is as good as it looks? The interior also looks very clean and in great shape, obviously a well cared for 4 door that just fell to Vermont salt.

Well, Moses, you recommended a Cherokee Sport, and I think I may have found a decent one to work on. It is only $500.00 and it supposedly runs well and the 4x4 works. It's a 2000 with 190,000 on the 4.0L motor. It needs rockers and floor work. It also needs a power steering reservoir o-ring for the power steering to work. The only picture on Craigs List shows a pretty decent original Jeep. I would really like an old CJ, but I'll do what's best for my daughter and my budget for now and hopefully the old CJ will show up when I can do the best job on it. It sounds like the trailer hitch alone would be worth the investment. I'll still enjoy the Liberty while working on this, if I can get my hands on it. I can't believe I'm the only one looking at this time of year.

My wife looked at the CARFAX and there didn't seem to be any unusual things in it. Typical repairs and the like. Today I noticed a little more rust and a small dent in the passenger's door. I really need to get some good rubber on it for the winter. The tires on it now have very little rubber in the middle and better tread on the outside like they've been overinflated since new. The check engine light has been on since we test drove it. One is a small gas leak, one is an O2 sensor, and the third we didn't hear what the dealer said. He said the small gas leak could be the gas cap. Does that sound reasonable? I will hook up my own diagnostic tester as soon as I have the chance and get the codes for myself, but they were going to take care of the faults before we got the Liberty, unfortunately he loaned it out to another customer the day before we picked it up, and he was at the auctions when we came to get it. Here's the better pictures. It's a little tight compared to my F-250 and my wife's Freestar. The car we traded in was a Freestar as well. It was kind of confusing when we called to make an appointment to have work done. LOL Now we'll have less confusion.

Thanks Moses, I was looking for a good book that includes the upgrades for the Liberty, but your book "Jeep Owners Bible" doesn't cover the Liberty. There are a couple of questions I have about this vehicle, but I'll post a picture so you have an idea of what it is first then I'll come back with the questions in another post. I'll post better pictures when I can take them. This was at the end of a long day that wanted to go all kinds of wrong. We had to travel to get the bank loan check and that took 2 hours there and back. If people want to hear more of the story I'll post it with the questions. The first I guess I can post now. Why is this called a "Limited"? It really has few features compared to the "Luxury" mini-van we traded for it.

Well, we'll find out tomorrow what's up with the Liberty because it should be coming home with me tomorrow afternoon, once the paperwork is done. From what I gather engines in this area have become seized, had the head gaskets changed only to find that the milling of the heads ruined the engines, and that the head gaskets are a problem, eventually tracked down from the radiator being diagnosed as the culprit for poor performance. I guess oil pans are pretty fragile too. Those are the examples of running and non-running Libertys I've found in my area Craig's List.

I'm actually thinking of replacing my second mini-van with a 2005 Jeep Liberty as the van is starting to wear on my nerves with it's little problems. The Jeep also has 70,000 less miles on it. At least it did until the dealer loaned it out to fix a customer's Liberty, and we haven't seen it since. The price is around $5000.00. I'm thinking a 2.5 inch lift and maybe a brush bar for a start.

Mr Ludel, I wonder why the engines in this area seem to be an issue? Right now I have two minivans, so talk about hard to change spark plugs. I would probably be driving to lakes and in fields to hunt, so hard driving isn't an issue. The winters would probably the biggest test. Getting in and out of the yard before I can move the 2 to 3 feet of snow with my Kubota is probably the bigger issue. that's where a modest lift would work out well. Thanks for the information.

I'm probably better at rust than I was 30+ years ago. I have more welding training and experience than I had then, not to mention equipment. Here is what the current owner has to say about the condition. "1970 Jeep CJ-5, Original 20,000 miles. What I have is a 1970 Jeep CJ-5 that was last on the road in 1980. It is in need of some restoration. The frame is rock solid and it has the Buick Odd Fire Dauntless V-6 with a 3 speed manual stick. Still has the original tires and even has the original footman steps which I have never seen still on a Jeep of this vintage. It had sat in a barn for a number of years at a camp in Saranac Lake. The story that I got which would appear to be true is that a young person found it in the barn and began a really half ass restoration on it. It was the original 1970 Teal Green and got a spray can job to black. There is some really bad Bondo work on it but it doesn't appear to be that much. The top that I assume the last owner put on is pretty much shot. I have restored a number of Jeeps and you can see some pix of the 1971 CJ-5 that was my last resto. When I saw this Jeep, I had to grab it because of the potential and the fact that the frame was solid as a rock. I have been holding on to it with plans to restore it but back issues delayed my starting the project. I now know I am facing a 3 level fusion so I'm pretty confident a restoration of this CJ won't be happening. It has the usual issues with floors which are easily replaced with aftermarket. The last owner replaced the clutch and it looks like he did it from inside the vehicle and messed up the bell housing pan which is part of the floor. I had it running briefly but didn't want to get any more bad gas in it and it was rough, however compression was all good so no doubt a carb rebuild or a new one better yet, fuel pump, new plugs etc.. It is a really nice and not that difficult a restoration. This is the last of the true Kaisers as AMC bought them in 1971 but couldn't really change the Kaiser design as they were already built. It is also the last of the side saddle gas tanks. To find a Jeep like this in New York is almost impossible. There is no registration but with patience you can get one from DMV. I have a hunch that this is not going to require a frame off resto but I just haven't been over it enough to be sure. It's a shame that some knucklehead can sprayed it black and tore up the floors but it is still perfect restoration material. The Dauntless V-6 was one of the best engines ever made. I would like to get $ 1,000.00 for it which is $ 300.00 less than I paid but will listen to best offers." I could get it for a little more than $800.00 if I can go to him. I offered him more if he would bring it to me, but so far he has declined to answer. He also posted a picture of one of his restorations.

I don't really like new Jeeps, but I'm considering a Liberty to have a more reliable car for winter and sports driving. I have seen a lot of locals for sale cheap with bad engines. I'm talking $300.00 - $400.00 cheap. Is the 3.7L a dud or are we looking at something else, like poor maintenance? Also, is there any lift for these little girls?

Mr Ludel, I have read the introduction to your book, and like you the first car I ever drove, at 12 no less, was an old Willys pickup that my father and I did extensive although uniformed work to. I'm not sure what year that Willys was, but we had to build a wooden bed for it, and rivet patch the floor. My father's idea of home body repair was was tar and rivets through a partially shaped piece of sheet metal. There are a couple of Willys advertised a little further south, and even a few at my cousin's junk yard that might have unmolested frames, even though I know one of the frames would need work. If I had a lot of extra money lying around I would take you up on your offer, but I am going to try to get whatever project I buy through to completion with as little outside work as I possibly can. That is why I was hopeful for the CJ 5, it only had 21,017 .? miles on it. Here's some pictures that were posted on Craig's List. More were added since the last time I saw them. I wish I could find one in a barn that's been hiding since the 1980s. I'd be on it fast. I just can't handle a lot of travel right now. If I can somehow get to this one is it one that shouldn't be passed up? Thanks, Allen (BadDriver4x4) P.S. Love the Willys truck in the picture you linked to.

I got your book today. Jeep CJ Rebuilder's Manual 1946 to 1971. Amazon has pretty good turn around. I am hesitant to post pictures from Craig's List so I will only post two of the Willys Pickup although I may not actually own it at any time in the future. It has some questionable frame patches, and It really needs a lot of work, definitely a frame off job.

Mr Ludel, There are a few considerations for making the choice of a CJ 5 or CJ 7 over a newer Jeep. The first is the lack of computer controls on the vehicle. The second is the pure attraction to the older vehicles. The third is the simplicity of the older vehicles. I have owned a Jeep XJ and at the time I owned mine they were making nothing for them as far as performance parts and upgrades. Of course I also had a 4 cyl, so what was there to do with it? I would happily buy my daughter a Cherokee with a 4.0L engine, and there are a few to be found in my area, but the rockers are usually gone, and there is more than enough other damage to make them a real mess to get into shape for Vermont inspection. Then there is also miles of wiring and bad door hinges, and the list goes on. I'm not looking for a going from good to performance vehicle, the big upgrades can wait until she can own it, I'm looking to give her an experience that will rival what I could have done in the late 70s and early 80s if I'd only had the know how and the current technologies. There is a seat for every butt and butt for every seat, and I guess I want her to experience the cars she'll never be able to get when she gets to be my age. They'll either have rusted to pieces or they'll be in a collection somewhere gathering dust. Being prepared in case of a man made catastrophe is also a good idea. The less electronics the better. We'll see how things go. Any comment on the 1962 Willys pickup? It's hard to find information on those, so I'm thinking about buying your Jeep CJ Rebuilder's Manual, 1946-1971: Mechanical Restoration, Unit Repair and Overhaul, Performance Upgrades for Jeep CJ-2A, CJ-3A, CJ-3B, CJ-5 and CJ-6 and MB, M38, and M38A1. I'm hoping there will be enough crossover in the models to make some good decisions, as the Willys may be my project. I may end up building a lot of things for this pickup that I might have to get original dimensions to fabricate. Thanks again.

Mr Ludel, I'm glad I asked the question. I will continue to look for a CJ 7 although I think I could handle the CJ 5 my daughter would have a hard time. You may have noticed I currently own a Ford F250 Super Duty with Turbo Diesel that she loves, not that she gets to drive it other than to move it to mow the lawn. There was another CJ 7 that I wanted to look at for a better price than the '81 I passed up, but they said it could only be driven in 2wd because of a problem with the front and rear differential not being matched? It must have sold quickly because my three emails to them didn't get a response. It seems as though maybe a newer model might be a better choice, but I want something that has seen the passing of time and made it to this point despite the odds. I guess what she wants may be the right thing for her although I have notice vehicles like the Jeep Liberty seem to have major problems with the engines. The newer Jeeps aren't my cup of tea so one for both of us that she can learn on and have one to drive maybe if the price is right. a Little hard work never hurt anyone.

I have found a 1970 CJ 5 with V6 Dauntless motor. I know very little about this beauty except that it's 3 hours away (141 miles one way) and the owner has restored Jeeps and Bikes. Of course being from Northern New York it had some bad body work done on it before the present owner got a hold of it. The engine needs some work and I'm sure some cleaning. Owner suggests a new carb. By saying I know little about this Jeep is because I have owned one Jeep before this. It was a Cherokee that if I remember correctly was a 1985. I still have some OEM\NOS parts for this Cherokee. The only other experience before that was an old Willys pickup, year unknown, that was the first vehicle I ever drove at age 12. I really didn't do much with either because there wasn't much to do with a L4 Cherokee at the time I owned mine, and I really couldn't play with the Willys. I want to do something of this kind with my soon to be 16 year old daughter who may inherit it in the future. Maybe I've been watching too many car shows. Is this a good candidate for restoration or slight customization? I also know where there is a 1962 Willys pickup that I want to do myself, but it's really a hulk. Help! Oh, I passed up on a 1981 CJ 7 last week that the owner kinda exaggerated about, or got ripped off on so called repairs, and was trying to get $2500.00 for. I know what I'm looking at, so I don't mind work as long as I'll have something to be proud of when I'm done.