TejasCJ7

OK, finally got through last weekend family stuff and been very busy this week through tomorrow.. Then back to the Jeep.. I got the radiator in, Autometer Gauges, Stant Thermostat, Stant Gaskets, new Murray water pump and everything else I need to get this old girl back on the road. Figured if I have it down I might as well replace everything and not have to go back to do the same labor again. BTW, I called an engineer at Permatex and discussed the pitted face of the block and he said to use Ultra Grey and it would seal up the pitting. Do not use a gasket, just the Permatex.. So, unless a customer calls and is in a dire situation (always an emergency in the Oil Field ) , Friday morning is JEEP TIME... Then on to other things on the list... I'll update when i get something accomplished.. Gene

Thanks Moses, I also have a friend who is the local Mopar Parts Manager helping me with the search.. they are a Crown dealer and has access to their inventory.. I am trying to get a core thickness measurement right now to compare to mine. Thanks again, Gene

Man I am having a heck of a time getting a "stock" raditor for this 78 Jeep.. Crown offers one that they say is a direct replacement for the HD Cooling, PN: J5361574, but it is 3 row and the original one is 2 row. I do not know if the 3 row would be too close to the fan.. My OEM radiator number is "5357424 m 04 01 78" and is not repairable. I can have a custom direct fit aluminum radiator built and not concerned about the price difference, but wanted to keep the original stock look if possible.. even though the Griffin 2 Row w/ 1.25" tubes would cool hades and be a whole lot better down here in South Texas.. If anyone has any input I would appreciate it as my Jeep is just sitting in the corner looking sad.. If I cannot find one in a week or so, I am pulling the trigger on the Griffin and will just paint it black on top since I am pretty good at painting aluminum.. Thanks, Gene

Moses I looked at everything offered on the internet and they all are very reasonable, but most if not all are foreign materials assembled in the USA. I am very famliar with chinese & india metallurgy and none of it is worth a darn.. assemble isn't bad, but metal sucks.. I used to get my race radiators from Griffin or Ron Davis and their quality, while not cheap, is second to none. I called Griffin and they make an exact fit all aluminum, with the trans cooler that will handle up to 400 HP and AC.. It is a 2 row using their standard 1.25" tubes and virtually doubles the factory copper 2 row cooling capacity. They also offer a 1.5" tube but I do not need it for this application.. I am probably going to go with this even though it is double the price of any of the internet imported material assembled in the USA stuff. This way, if (ha ha, when) I submit to the bug you planted in my old feeble brain about the Stroker, I will have sufficient cooling to do anything I want to.. Including a litttle boost.... I really have been thinking about that stroker engine you have on your website and am going to do a bit of studying the whole thing.. It definately would be super with the T400 & QT and Mopar EFI.. I am out of town this weekend so will not have the time to get the pictures until next week, unless I can get it done tomorrow.. I do want you to see them and make a recommendation.. Thanks, Gene

Moses I can help you find a IH 1980 Scout II with the Nissan Turbo-Diesel I have some pretty good IH connections in this part of the country... (we might both get killed) I actually have a friend with a 75 that called me and wants to sell me his Scout.. I gave him a Terra Top a couple of years ago and now he is through messing with it.. wants it gone.. 345 V8.. if I can get him to part with it for the right price, I will probably buy it.. OK, I am going to get back to reality, although the stroker engine really piques my interest.. I may have to build one just for the heck of it..& with the TH400 & QT with posi F&R..That would be an animal.. I am buying a rusted out jeep with a good 258 in the next couple of weeks.. could be the start of something new...and it would have the MOPART EFI AFTER I get this Jeep running & driving.. I took the radiator back and got the original one back.. i took all the measurements of the core and the OD etc. Which radiator would you recommend? Top Flow or Cross Flow?? Do you have a part number for the best one I can get from Detroit Radiator?? It gets hot down here,, Saturday was 99 with a heat index of 105.. i know as i was working in my shop which has real good air flow and it was still HOT... we will stay hot until mid to late November and the humidity is very high, only 30 miles form ths Gulf.. What are you thinking for the pitting?? Some filler like JB Weld and then resurface it? Have you ever used the Permatex® the Right Stuff® Gasket Maker? I either have or have access to all sort of tools, and am pretty willing to try most anything.. As usual, thanks for your input and advice, Gene

Moses, The freeze plugs look good and found no leakage when all new stuff was run at full temp.. only leak was from the thermostat housing.. It will probably be next weekend before I get a chance to pull the housing and take some pics.. I have several machine shops that I do business with that could surface the head, but did not antipicate pulling it..When I put the Valve Stem Seals in and pressurized the engine, there was 0 leakdown in this engine.. I really do not want to take it apart.. if I do, I may get creative Your write up on the 280 is interesting.. leave the body just like it is and put that engine with EFI and the QT AWD.. Now that would be different I am going to return the new radiator tomorrow and get the original back.. I am going to try to find an exact match.. or I will call one of my old race car radiator guys and have him make me one with an electric fan like the Flex A Lite that fits exactly.. I will not keep doing the same thing and expect better results!! What is the difference in a center cap and drivers side cap location?? I see both in looking at Radiator Express and other websites.. Mine is a center cap, Can I run either?? I know now, that the PO ran it without a thermostat and probably put well water in it.. the AF concentration was very low,, very pale green.. Also, they added a El Cheapo temp gauge since the one in the speedo evidently quit working.. so I am going to replace all gauges with either SW HD series or Auto Meter.. I will keep the temp gauge as I hate not knowing the exact temp..Fuel level is fuel level, everything must have a number!! Cranky in my old age huh?? or maybe its "Been There Done That" syndrome.. Thanks, Gene

Well, I got my 78 CJ7 running good, but was heating up when cruising on the highway.. So I decided to check out the original cooling system. First thing, radiator had broken loose from its supports over the years, next, the PO had taken the thermostat out and the heater hoses were incorrect.. so I took the radiator to the local radiator shop where they tested it and said it was plugged up and they could not solder the supports back on without warping the radiator. So, ordered a new radiator from them for the HD Cooling System which was on the original Sales Order.. I then did the whole enchiliada.. reverse flush, flush heater core seperately and replaced both heater hoses, upper and lower rad hoses, all SS clamps, New thermostat (since there was none) and waited for the new rad to come in. While cleaning the thermostat housing and the head, I discovered a lot of pitting on the surface of the head. I tried to seal it with double gaskets & silicone, Got it all back together Friday evening with new Anti-Freeze and Distilled water, buttoned it up and ran it in place.. All Good.. Then started to take it out of the shop and the radiator that I was sold mounts too low and hits the steering shaft at the lower hose outlet. Could not compare to original as it was at the rad shop. In addition to that, the thermostat housing leaks I am going to take the radiator back on Tuesday and get my money back then order an all aluminum radiator from Radiator Express, But now I need to get a better seal on the thermostat head surface.. Has anyone used Permatex® the Right Stuff® Gasket Maker for this problem?? According to Permatex it will fill in small pitting and variances in surfaces. It is an Elastomer and not rubber and is resistant to most everything but gasoline.. Any input or comments appreciated. I really do not want to take the head off to have this surfaced.. Thanks, TejasCJ7

Moses I would like your input on my cooling system.. I got the first part of getting the CJ7 back to being roadworthy and took her out for a jaunt through the countryside today. She ran well, shifted properly and overall for sitting in a barn for a few years did well.. I have removed all of the emissions from the engine and the converter was removed years ago.. Today while cruising down the road the temp got over the 195 mark, but would come down if I slowed down. the Thermostat in the vehicle is old and is 195.. I was wondering if going to a 180 degree thermostat would have any beneficial effect??? Again, all emissions parts have been removed including the EGR valve. I have not gone through the cooling system yet, so it could be as little as a good flush and new hoses etc. but after reading some of your comments on thermostats, i thought I would ask?? which would be the best and remember, I am in South Texas, today was 96 and it is has been up to 109 last earlier this month.. Thanks again for all your help, Gene

When I sold the Tan Scout in the first pictures, I was not going to buy another old car or truck.. Then I saw the CJ ad and it was in Houston so I went to look because of the mileage...figuring it would not take much to make it a weekender/putt around open 4WD..And you know the result of that.. I stiill have an addiction for Scouts and if a deal popped up I would probably go look at it.. Also looking at a CJ8 in the area that is partially redone to stock and may be available. With that said, the CJ is coming right along.. got new valve seals in, ZERO leak down by the way and the inside of the engine is clean as a whistle. All smog stuff removed, Tranny shifting correctly, all fluids changed.. Drives very well.. I will be driving it this weekend.. Glad you liked the Darth Vador Scout. little things like buffing color off the emblems so it would be all silver against the Flat Black really enhanced the look.. Thanks again for a great site, Gene

Moses Since you are a IH addict like me, here is some more eye candy.. This is a 75 that we completely rebuilt, engine was 345 +.o30, Isky Cam, Alum Intake, Holley 600 Vac Second,.,2.5" Duals w/ H pipe, complete stock interior with new carpet, floors etc., AC, PS, PB on a 4" EZ Ride Lift on 33X12.50-15 and painted Hot Rodz Flatz Black.. The Scout went to Brazil to be used on a rancho.. Came out pretty good.. sounded very Bad A** hence the name Darth Vador Gene

Folks, I am looking for a pair of the original CJ7 side steps. I think they are the same from any CJ, but do not know. My CJ came with a set, but the original owner removed them and cannot find them. I want to install the OEM part, not aftermarket. If anyone has a set, as long as they are not rusted through, I will buy them and pay for shipping..I will send you a shipping label so you just have to put in a box & drop off at FedEx. Or if they are in Texas, I may be in the area and can pick them up.. Thanks, TejasCJ7 Victoria, Texas

Moses I just found your IH forum.. I sold my last Scout II that I did a complete nut & bolt off frame resto on. I was not going to do this again until the CJ7 caught my eye and I could not say NO... Anyway, I don't have any parts left as all went with the buyer of my 76, but I will post up some pics. Everything is new from the ground up, including a compete rebuild and blueprint of the engine, 30 over 196 4 Cyl. that ran like a sewing machine.. DUI distributor was the only mods on the engine,, the seats are the same Corbeau Moab's that I am going to use in my New CJ7.. the dash was custom with autometer gauges,.,. When it was first done, it had 15" wheels with Super Swampers and it did not take me long to get tired of those tires..so, I sold the wheels & tires in the pictures and then reeplaced the 15" wheels with 16" as they are much more available and cheaper tire choices and used Cooper AT that were almost the same size as the original H78-15.. Anyway, my Jeep will never be this nice as I am just going for an original driver,,, TejasCJ&

PO just cut the air tube off and put a small bolt and JB Weld in it.. couple were leaking and all are being replaced with high pressure carbon steel plugs.. The only thing that was in the manifold was the fitting that the air was injected through, Looks like a hollow bolt with a hole in the shaft.. so far all have come out fairly easily. I am very interested in your Saginaw unit for my Jeep when it is available, I have manual steering which is OK for me. However if a power upgrade is easy, I might be interested in that. Thanks again, Gene

Moses Well, I have been busy business wise, but found some time to work on the 78CJ7.. Got the tranny to shift, it was the modulator valve so got that working. Plugged all AIR holes in exhaust manifold with high pressure steel plugs. Found out why it was running rich.. choke spring was messed up and it would close as it got hot.. took that apart and fixed it.. lubed the chassis probably the first time in 10 years, changed all fluids except brake, that will come later and adjusted the steering.. got most of the play out, but will need a new steering box.. any recommendations?? or whatever is available?? A friend of mine who is like McGyver and a carb wizard (he has a rebuilt Cherokee Chief with a 360 & 727 that he uses as a daily driver and a 49 Willys Jeepster that is completely restored body on a custom S10 Cahssis with the EFI 4.3 GM engine, vintage Air and on and on and on) worked on the carb a little and it runs great.. he said if it gives me any problem, we will just put a rebuild and as you said blueprint the old 1 BBL.. I am a pretty decent shadetree mechanic and worked on my race cars for years and still build parts for oil field equipment, but my friend is a retired master mechanic & machinist..so I pick his brain constantly and he has helped me lots over the years.. Us Geezers gotta stick together to get it done.. I have decided to leave it almost completely stock as it really runs great.. Have a few more things to do: Install the SpiderWeb Sunshade Top to keep the sun off my old head and just drive her and work on it as I have time.. I will take some pictures of her with new Antique Plates and running as she should after all these years as soon as I get it off my friends lift.. Thanks for your input on "Stock" as I lean in that direction myself.. Gene

Moses Thanks a lot for all of the information. I am pursuing a CI OEM intake and if I get it , I will do the Holley conversion. Other than that, I am just going to continue to fix the daily driver items, leaky valve stem seals, plugs, carb kit etc. I agree about keeping it a "Barn Find" and will not make any other mods including keeping the side spare mount.. I just really like the simplicity of this old Jeep and plan to bring everything back to original working condition.. I will not paint it and may not even buff it out too much.. although I think a wet sand by my paint guy would really make her shine.. I have a Spiderweb bikini coming for it and that is all the top that will get put on. No doors!! And of course new seats that have the original look.. Being an old fart myself, I really like the old & original aspect. I may forgo the 2 bbl. as it does run quite well with the Carter on it.. Thanks again for all your help, TejasCJ7

Moses Exactly what I want to do. Would you please give me the correct carb number. I searched Holley website and found nothing for the 266, probably discontinued.. I will also look in a IH Shop manual I have. Thanks a lot, TejasCJ7

Moses: Started working on the 78 & I may have intake/exhaust problems. What could I use as a subsitute for what i now have? Would a later model 2 bbl intake & exhaust work? If so what would be the best one to try to find? I am not looking for high performance, but if I could use a factory 2 bbl intake & exhaust then i could do the carb and distributor upgrade and call it a day.. Thanks TejasCJ7

Moses, I have been reading your book and learning as I go..The Jeep is very similiar to the Scouts I have built so should not see many obstacles.. I am going to get all the emissions stuff off and all vacuum leaks plugged to start with, switch to the HEI distributor, but keep the 1 Bbl. for the time being.. I am looking at a 2 barrel manifold that will run the Holley 350 CFM 2 Bbl. carb. down the road. Right now i just want to get it running decently and don't care about performance increase. i have other vehicles to fill that need. I need to get the tranny shifting and the steering cleaned up and lubed up.. so that is the next step.. then just work on her as I have time.. Thanks for your help, TejasCJ7

Hi Ya'll from the Texas Gulf Coast area. I just acquired a pretty nice 1978 CJ7 Base Model with 9937 original miles on her.. I have been messing with IH Scouts and 50's Chevy Trucks for quite a while, but sold everything and was not going to get another unitl I heard about this Jeep. Well, I went to check it out, did not take my trailer, and it really is a 1978 CJ7 with 9937 original miles, so I bought it and then had to go back & get it. I bought it from the original owner and have all the paper work including the original sales documents from the Jeep Dealer.. They took it to their ranch and it never left. It had been sitting in a barn for the last couple or years, but has virtually no rust and only a couple of dents & dings along with typical brush scratches. All paint is original and the optional undercoating is mostly still there.. you can see the original factory gray on the frame in spots.. The Jeep has the 258 C.I. 6 cyl with the TH400 Transmission & Quadratrac drive with the low range option. It runs and has no noises coming from the engine..however it will foul the plugs quickly, which I think is vacuum leaks & carb issues. The tranny does not shift out of low gear, but that hopefully is a pretty easy fix as it may be either not proper vacuum or stuck governer. I plan to keep it basically original stock, but with some drivability improvements. First thing is change all fluids front to rear inluding the BW 1339 transfer case with Mopar QT Fluid. I am going to run 10W30 oil unless someone tells me a better choice?? I also have to buy new seats as the orignals were replaced and the ones in it are WORN OUT!! I will use the Corbeau Moab as I like them and they are reasonably priced. For now, I am just going to get it running so I can drive it and discover all of her habits, good & bad.. Now, for my questions, I purchased the Jeep CJ 72-86 Rebuilders Manual and have been reading it, but I still have a couple of questions. The engine was purchased with the Carter 1 Bbl. carb and I am thinking of upgrading to a 2 Bbl. Weber 38-DGES have questions about the intake manifold. I really would like to get an original cast iron factory 2 Bbl. manifold if they made them and not use an aftermarket or the newer aluminum one, as I do not want to plumb the water to it. I think that this engine needs a heated intake to properly atomize the fuel in the end cylinders so am not interested in the Offy or Edelbrock manifolds... I will go with the Weber for overall drivability or possibly use a EFI down the road. The distributor will be a DUI or CRT HEI and all emission tubing etc will be eliminated as it is not required in Texas before 1984. I am just going to use it as a run around vehicle on weekends with an occasional trip to the beach.. no rock crawling as we don't have any rocks down here So with all that BS, what suggestions, recommendations or problems do you see?? All comments & suggestions appreciated.. Thanks for a great manual and a very informative site, TejasCJ7