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Everything posted by TejasCJ7

  1. Moses Take a look at these HP & Tq numbers and you will see why I would just stay with the 304A if it is in good running condition. Kind of shocked me also.. These figures are from the CTS-2304 manual V-304A Brake H.P. (Max) @ RPM 193.1 @ 4400 Brake H.P. (Net) @ RPM 180 @ 4400 Torque (Max) Lb. Ft. @ RPM 272.5 @ 2800 Torque (Net) Lb. Ft. @ RPM 262 @ 2400-2600 V-345 Brake H.P. (Max) @ RPM 196.7 @ 4000 Brake H.P. (Net) @ RPM 168 @ 3800 (Yes I know this seems like it should be wrong, but it's not) Torque (Max) Lb. Ft. @ RPM 309 @ 2200-2400 Torque (Net) Lb. Ft. @ RPM 288 @ 2000 Being as they are the exact same engine with a different stroke, I was pretty surprised that the 304 produced more HP albeit at 600 more RPM and only 36.5 lb/ft less Tq... This was posted by one of the Scout Guru's on Binder Planet some years back.. Could save me a lot of work by just keeping the original running gear especially since it will not see very hard work..and as you say, the D20 is a very robust TC.. Your comments? Gene
  2. Well here she is after living in a barn since 1985. All original and completely stock 1979 Terra with 69000 miles on her.. She had a few run in's with cows and trees, but all in all, nothing that my body guy cant fix.. Plus I have some good front fenders as well as rear quarters if it is too bad.. No rot in rockers or floor except one hole in the bed which can be fixed with a patch from another 79 bed.. Got the LST and may just keep her original since she has a 304, T-19 BW Close Ratio tranny, Dana 20 TC, 3.54 gears with rear Trac Lok.. Not much to gain by swapping the 345 & Dana 300 since we don't have any rocks to climb, just flat terrain and beach.. I talked to the guys at Novak and they said that the only difference in the 20 vs the 300 is the 2.0 to the 2.6 low range ratio and the cut of the gears.. they actually said I would be just as good with the Dana 20 unless I just wanted the lower gearing.. so I will do some calculations using the T19 vs the 727 and the 20 vs the 300 with the 3.54 gear ratio.. bet it is close enough to not go through a engine & tranny swap.. we will see,. I will give her a bath and start sorting out some things then get her running and see where I am before finalizing a plan.. I have many options as I have this Terra for the base vehicle, a 1980 Scout II with a crappy body, but a real good 345 4 Bbl. with a 727 & Dana 300, and a 79 Traveler parts truck with a 727 tranny, Dana 20 and good fenders and rear quarters as well as many more parts.... Not going to be an easy decision, but I am leaning to keeping it as original as possible but making it extremely dependable to go down the road as well as South Padre Island with out major hiccups.. General theme will be a Safari/Family Cruiser that can go topless, Safari Top or a full Traveler Top.. with a full length custom roll bar set up from drivers seat to tailgate.. This should keep me busy for a while, Gene
  3. Well, things have progressed with the 1980 Scout, but not in a good way. Since I purchased the 80, I knew it had some rust areas, but the PO really did a good job with the bedliner and I missed a lot... But all is not lost, as I also purchased a 1979 Scout II Terra that has been in the barn since 1985 and it is pretty solid. I also had an opportunity to purchase a 1979 Traveler that had been used as a parts car for a 3 into 1 build. So now I have a 1980 Scout II, 1979 Terra and a 1979 Traveler (partial). After I removed all of the bedliner in and out of the 1980 and the young man I use to do the body work for me started cutting out the floor area, we found very bad things that would bust the budget to fix.. So I have come up with a typical Senile Old Man idea, who also has done 4 of these Scouts previously, and we are proceeding. Basically, I am going to take all the running gear and optional items off of the 1980, i.e. 345 engine, 727 Tranny, Dana 300 transfer case, power steering and what ever else I an salvage from the 80 and install it in the low mileage 1979 Terra. This will upgrade the Terra from a 304 with the T19 tranny to a 345 with a 727 automatic with the Dana 300 in place of the Dana 20, PS, PB, AC and a few other items such as bucket seats. In the process of doing all this, everything will be gone through since the engine, tranny etc will be out might as well. No performance adders, just removal of all smog items and upgrade of whatever needs it.. The Terra will lose its pickup top and bulkhead and get a custom roll cage from just over the front seats all the way to the tailgate with it all fitting under a new Softtopper fold down top. This should give me a pretty nice excursion Scout and will really ride nice with the 118" wheelbase. I am not planning to repaint the Terra as it has a great patina, just fix some small spots, lightly sand and shoot a satin clear over it.. This is going to take through this year and into next, but I hope to have it all done by next spring... Anyway, that is pretty up to date.. dismantling starts tomorrow.. after everything is finished, I should have a Scout II chassis and a Scout Traveler chassis for sale, along with a bunch of parts, I hope.. Moses, would you change my handle from TejasCJ7 to just Tejas?? or Scout Stupid or something like that Thanks, Gene
  4. Well, the first thing is get my heat gun & scraper out and get all the dang bed liner off the outside of the truck. Then just do some clean up and Rust-X the wheel wells where the PO put some bed liner for flares and it separated from the body, got stuffed with leaves and H2O and started a nice compost pile which made some very nice rust along all 4 wheel well lips..fortunately did not rust through.. that will follow the bed liner removal. Then find any rust and get a coat of Rust-X on it for the time being.. Next just get it clean!!! Gawd I hate it when folks let vehicles get filthy .. the engine is gonna take some good pressure washing with a bunch of degreaser in the mix.. I have already purchased a new shift cable and Pertronix Ignition & Coil as the current coil is leaking..add some new wires & plugs, drain and refill all fluids F to R..After the housekeeping just get her running decently and drive it for a while to discover what else needs looking at this coming winter (all 2 months of it)... That's about all for now.. this weekend, I am spreading 50 tons of crushed limestone on the driveways at the Boat & RV storage to fill up all the chug holes from the 10 inches of rain we have had...so JD tractor & land plane, here I come.. Wanna come help?? Later, Gene
  5. I have two (2) of the Scout II FSM's that I use.. actual bound factory manuals... One is well worn and has many sticky bookmarks for specific items as I have owned a few Binders.. the other one is in pristine condition and shall not be fingered by me or anyone else.. I had to purchase both of these and they were not cheap, but not really what I would call expensive.. Cost of doing business with old iron in my way of thinking. I guarantee they have saved me more than I paid for them!! Plus I have many more manuals and books, including a complete Chevrolet Tri Five factory assembly manual set and even a couple of Moses' books which I found very helpful when messing with Jeeps.. All bought and paid for as I am sure that he had considerable time and effort invested in his Creative Work.. Moses, my "new" Scout is still getting somewhat disassembled to start reassembly to iron out a few PO bugs and shortcuts.. gonna be a while on this one as I have too many other things going on at the same time.. Hope you are well, Gene
  6. Hey Moses, great to be back on your site.. If I could just change my moniker to "Tejas", that would be generic enough for me and whatever other foolishness I may get involved with.. As an aside, a little history of the word Tejas: Tejas is the Spanish translation of the Caddo Indian word Taysha, which means "friend, ally or a greeting such as hello". After the Spanish changed it to Tejas, the Gringos further changed it to Texas.. The LST is still on the glove box door, but it has been wet and I am in the process of trying to salvage it. If I cannot, I will order a replacement..not cheap, but good to have. This Scout was particularly interesting to me as it is the last year made and has a fair amount of options: 345 V8, 727 Automatic, AC, PS, PB, Sport Steering Wheel are the ones I have identified so far.. I am not going to do a resto on her, just get everything working properly and the very little rust cut out and sealed from further rotting.. I plan on putting a SpyderWeb Shade top on once I get the full rollbar installed. That's about all I will need down here on the South Texas coast area.. not much winter.. I will post more as I get some work done.. Gene
  7. Just a quick post to get restarted on Moses' great forum. I have redone a few Scouts and then lost my mind and bought a couple of Jeeps, but now after all that I am back in the Scout World.. Quite by accident I came across this pretty decent 1980 Scout II sitting at the curb of this house and there was a guy in the yard so I asked him if this was his Scout. He replied yes, so I asked if it could be My Scout.. after a short haggle, we agreed on a price so I went back the next day with dead presidents and took my new 1980 Scout to my shop.. All is right with the world now that I have another Scout.. with a little TLC she will be kicking up dust again after sitting in the previous owners garage since 2008. Here is the only picture I have of her so far and she is dirty so don't be mean.. I'll post progress as I get things going.. But I'm probably going to have to change my user name.. Good to be back, Gene
  8. Hey Moses, Just thought I would drop you a note and update you on my vehicle adventures. I sold both Jeeps that I bought, 78 CJ7 & 06 LJ and have been spending time upgrading my 2009 6.2L Tahoe LTZ. This car is a blast to drive as it is very fast and handles extremely well. I have had this Tahoe for a few years, searched for about a year or more to find one with low mileage and the L9H 6.2L & 4WD. they only made 620 of them in 2009 and I found one with 35,000 miles on her. Well, since I sold the Jeeps (thank you God) (they were not that bad, but can not compare to my previous IH Scouts) I have added a Cold Air Intake, Custom Exhaust, Computer Dyno Tune by Nelson Performance in San Antonio, Texas, Hotchkis Sway Bars and Baer 15" Brakes F&R. Needless to say this is the most comfortable US made Grand Touring SUV I have ever driven.., 435 HP at the rear wheels, cruises in total comfort (AC Seats) at 80 MPH getting 18 MPG. I included a couple of pictures of the Tahoe, looks stock, but is far from it. Well now I have sold my oilfield business, closes the end of July and my Tahoe is pretty much done so I have been getting the ITCH You Know What I Mean!!! Out of the blue appears an all original 1980 IH Scout II that is in the garage of the original owner.. Basically looks new from the pictures, 304, auto, AC PS PB.. I am trying hard not to go look at it, but I feel I may succumb to the Binder Fever once again. Anyway, just wanted to touch base and let you know I may be joining your IH forum soon.. Gonna have to change my User Name though.. may just call myself "Crazy Old Gear Head" and let that cover all bases. Hope you are doing well, Gene
  9. Actually, baddriver I have several I am looking at. Plus in Texas if a person tries to interfere in in a horse/cattle/vehicle trade, we can legally shoot them...If you want to buy a Scout, I will find one and sell it to you. I have owned several and know where several more are.
  10. Moses, I have decided to sell my 2006 LJ, 48,000 original miles, and go back to an IH Scout. Is there any way to post the info on the LJ for sale on your forums? I really would like it to go to someone who would appreciate how nice it is and all the work done and add-on's I have purchased for it. I have already sold my 78 CJ7 & 1967 Chevy C10 (today) so I only need to sell the Jeep and then do ONE MORE DANG SCOUT!! This one will be the last since at my age that is all I have left but it will be a good one... I have located the potential vehicle, just have to finish the horse trading and then bring it home.. 76 SII, 345, TF and in pretty good condition.. As of now I plan on keeping it all IH with everything redone like I did on the Elk Tan one..full off frame rebuild but more performance and AC.. Kinda a cross-breeding of the Black 75 & the Tan 76. Not as fancy as the Tan Scout but Uber Functional I have not seen any classified section so just wanted to ask. I do not want to violate any of your guidelines or standards as your sites are the premier publications on the web and in print. Thanks, Gene
  11. Hey Moses, How you been doing?? I have been going insane.. Old Age & Senility is my story and I Am Sticking To It!!!!!!!!' Well, here is what I thought I had outgrown, but as said above, I guess it never goes away.. You know from previous posts that I bought a 2006 LJ while I still had the 78 CJ7. So I traded the CJ7 for a 1967 Chevy C10, Short Bed Fleetside with the Panaromic Window option thinking I would like to do a little RestoMod on this truck.. Well, I just sold the Chevy and am going to look at another Scout II this weekend.. Plus I still have the LJ..which I kinda like, but it is NOT a Scout II... I have come to the conclusion that I do like the IH Scout II the best of all the old stuff I have had and worked on. Parts are a little harder to find, but not that hard.. Scout has more room in the seating area than any of the Jeeps or the Chevy C10. To Super Chief, the IH designed & built 304 is a great engine... lots of grunt and if kept in good condition will go 200-300K miles..I prefer the 345 because I can make more HP but they are basically the same engine. There is a bunch of folks that have replaced the IH engine with a GM, Ford or Mopar, but I really like the sound of a 345 with a little better cam, aluminum intake headers with duals and a decent 4BBL oe even EFI.. great grunt and sounds like a big block.. also as Moses says, the 727 TF is a very tough tranny.. remember, they put it behind the Hemi back in the day.. The axles should be Dana 44's F&R but I am not sure in 73 as my SII's have all been 75 or newer.. Disc brake kits are available several places. Good luck with your build.. Thanks, TejasCJ7 maybe I should change my handle to confused Later, Gene
  12. There are two in the area I am going to look at next week or so.. One belongs to a friend and the other is just sitting in a driveway in the next neighborhood... I'm not really in a hurry, as I want to work on the CJ this winter and want to get the LJ sold.. if you know anyone looking for a nice LJ, this is an original 47K mile one owner Jeep. I know where there is a 1980 SD Scout.. 4zd7p-5329184953@sale.craigslist.org in Houston with a lot of spares.. kinda of interesting, but I am not a diesel fan.. worked on big cats when I worked offshore years ago and have owned several diesel trucks and just don't care for them anymore.. Go check it out.. Gene
  13. Well, my buddy and I (he has 2 Cherokee Chiefs) went to look at the one I was after.. Way too much rust and pretty cobbled together.. So as you did, I passed also.. I will find one sooner or later or another Scout (already got one in the sights) but until then I will continue with the CJ7 which I will probably keep to putt around in.. Oh well, at least we stopped and had some good BBQ.. Merry Christmas to all, Gene
  14. Moses Thanks for the quick response on the Cherokee as I am going to look at it Saturday. As for the LJ, I bought it with the intention of keeping it and as usual, went through it. All new fluids, cooling, transmission, engine, transfer case both differentials. All new rotors & pads and rear calipers, new Bilstein HD shocks... so it is in excellent condition, 4.0 EFI w/ 4 speed auto, 1 -1/2 year old Besttop.. Warn 9.5TI front winch and 47,500 original miles it will make someone a real good Jeep.. I just am too big and old to get in and out easy.. plus I really like the Cherokee and I have the CJ7 Merry Christmas, Gene
  15. Moses I have fallen into an opportunity to purchase a 1976 Jeep Cherokee Chief for a reasonable price and would like your "What to look for" advice. The truck is in regular use and makes 200 mile trips hauling a family to camping trips several times a year. They just need a larger vehicle as they now have to take two SUV's to get everbody there, As I said, it is a 1976 but with several upgrades, some I like, some I don't know yet. V8 360, factory 2 Bbl. 2150 carb with 727 AT and Twin Stick Dana 300 transfer case,. 4" Spring lift with proper shocks etc. and 33-12.50X15 AT Tires. AC works but has small leak, easy enough t fix.. Non original front seat, but all else is original. Very rust free but has had front floor pans replace in the past. The power back window works well also.. From what I can find, the Dana 300 was not stock in 76, but could be a very good upgrade due to its strength, not that I am going to do serious offroading. I am going to look at it this weekend and taking a buddy who has rebuilt one Chief and just bought another for a rebuild, so will have some expertise with me. I also bought a 2006 LJ with 47K miles that I am going to sell as I do not like the newer Jeeps compared to my CJ7.. Your comments please, Thanks, Gene
  16. Moses I cannot give you a definitive answer on the Scout vs Jeep as I have not progressed far enough to know. The Jeep is a little harder to do some things on due to size and one thing I have found that is nutz is the radiator lower hose and steering bell relationship. If I were going to do a complete resto like I did on the Tan Scout, I would relocate the lower hose location with a custom built radiator and move it away from the steering. If you put the hose clamp in the wrong place it hits the bell.. The ignition as with the IH Gold Box is a funky item and with todays technology can be easily improved.. I am going to do the DUI change over. After this winter, all 2-3 months of it down here, and I have the CJ where I want it, I will do a write up on the Good, Bad & Ugly of each. I have done 4 Scouts and 2 early Blazers, but the Tan Scout was a complete off frame nut & bolt restore.. She was so pretty she wouldn't even drive through a mud puddle without complaining. I do have another question for you as I am going to address it while doing the suspension, which by the way, I ordered the Energy Suspension Super Kit and Monroe Gas Magnum Shocks. we will see how harsh it is, but I think it will be fine for what I am going to do with it.. The other item I need to address is the steering box. It needs rebuilding or replacing. what is your take on converting to power steering with the Quadratrac drive? I am going to be the primary driver, but my niece may drive it some as well. I can steer it OK, but I do not know if she could. It steers pretty funky.. which may be corrected with a new box and the suspension/bushing replacement.. When you turn the wheel all the way to lock, it seems to get in a bind. I am not sure if this is steering or the QT chain slipping.. Your comments please, Gene
  17. Moses I was looking at Energy Suspension and Daystar as they both make a Poly Kit that covers everything.. but I may go back to the rubber.. if I can find something NOT made in china.. I am not having much success in that.. I do not like the Crown or Amix stuff so I may be stuck with the Energy Suspension master kit. I am right there with you on body lifts and there will be NO body lift on this Jeep. I am running a radial equivalent to the original tire also.. including the side mounted spare.. On the shocks, the Gas Magnum may be overkill and the old Monroe-Matic could be an ideal and inexpensive to keep it near stock plus they are about $20 each.. I'm finally getting a chance to pressure wash the underside and get all the suspension done, then get the interior done and the 2 dents popped out.. then clean up the inside and install some new seats. I am trying to find some good CJ original seats that I could have recovered, but if not will go with the Corbeau Moab in original Spice color for front and back. Thanks again and Merry Christmas, Gene
  18. Moses, I am getting ready to completely go through the suspension on the CJ including replacing all bushings and rubber pieces underneath the CJ as well as shocks, spring bushings, tie rod ends and anything else that needs to be done. I would like your opinion on Poly vs Rubber for body mounts? I have used Poly on all of the Scouts and they rode OK, but I don't know how much it will effect the CJ. As for shocks, I am leaning to plain old Monroe or Gabriel for everyday driving.. remember, this Jeep will never see Moab or anything like that.. just cruising and maybe the beach. Do you think the Monroe Gas Magnum would be too stiff? Thanks again for your input, Gene
  19. Not really an answer, just an update on the 78 CJ7. Basically what I have done so far is: Removed all Air Pulse lines and hoses. Removed EGR Valve Rebuilt carb and flipped the choke spring around.. it was in backwards and that is what was causing the plug fouling.. as you gave it more gas it closed the choke more.. Installed High Pressure Plugs in manifold where Air Pulse tubes were. Installed EGR Block Off Plate (billet aluminum) looks funny on the old green engine, but she needed some jewelry.. Installed Valve Stem Seals Pressurized the engine and did a leak down test.. passed with flying colors. Installed New Aluminum Radiator, Thermostat (there was none) Hoses , belt etc. Flushed the engine and the heater core as well water was run in the engine.. Fixed pitting on the cylinder head to thermostat housing caused by well water.. (Use Permatex Ultra Gray if you ever need to do this.. put it on both sides with NO gaskets and it will seal completely) Replaced Vacuum Modulator with one off of a GM vehicle which got rid of the piping the Jeep used. Replaced Transmission Governor.. Old one was pretty good, but since I had a new one I used it.. Drained and replaced all fluids and filters. Installed a SpyderWeb Sun Shade Removed tail lights and pigtail back to factory connector and going to install new lights. Going to friends body shop after Thanksgiving to have dent by the spare and small one in the hood pulled out. Then I am going to paint the interior but will leave the original paint on the body.. As soon as it is painted on the inside, will install new Autometer Jeep Logo gauges.. speedo works except for the temp and the PO already put a temp gauge where the tach goes, so I am just going to put a new one there.. She starts right up and runs like a top.. just need to do a little suspension work but up to 55 or so no problems.. fun to drive.. mainly because it is so simple,, Gene
  20. Moses, I could not resist the deal and picked up a 2006 Wrangler Unlimited today.. pretty good condition, one owner, never offroad or on salty areas.. 47,000 miles..With a BRAND NEW Best Top.. black which i like better than the original tan.. It is the Metallic Tan Color.. Just needs a really good detail and should be good to go for a daily driver.. 4.0L w/ 42RLE.. Now I have something to drive while I work on the CJ7.. Did I lose my mind?? I don't think so, I'll give you the details when I get her home this evening.. BTW, great write up on buying a used TJ.. AS USUAL... We all benefit greatly from your input.. Thanks, Gene (TejasCJ7)
  21. Moses, I completely agree with you.. I have bought several DUI units over the years and have never had a problem.. Think I will stick with them and use their distributor and wires.. can't go wrong with a proven product. By the way, the fix on the thermostat housing pitting worked like a charm.. no more leaks.. way to go Ultra Grey.. Gonna get back on her this weekend, fixing the taillight wiring that was hacked and install the gauges.. Then I am going to drive her until it gets too cold.. This winter she goes on the jack stands and will strip and repaint or Monster Liner the inside of the tub and install the new Corbeau Moab Seats along with the Safari rear Seat.. Get my body shop buddy next door to knock out a couple of dents and try to make it look like original paint which he says he can do.. then body bushings, shocks, install new cables and pull the heater apart and clean it.. That will be it for this winter... Gonna be cool next spring cruising in my CJ Gene
  22. I have used the DUI HEI in a couple of IH Scouts with good results. I want to upgrade my 78 4.2L CJ7 to a HEI and would like to know if anyone has any comments on the DUI HEI vs. the CRT Performance HEI distributors.. The price for the DUI with Live Wires is : $388 vs. CRT $135.00. Quite a bit of difference in price if the quality is equal.. I do not want to compare to one of the cheapies on Ebay, only these 2. Comments and or suggestions appreciated.. BTW, I am only going to do the ignition for now, may do the Clifford Kit later.. Thanks, TejasCJ7
  23. Moses Well, I finally got caught up with my oilfield stuff and had time to work on the Jeep.. I ordered an all aluminum radiator from Radiator Express due to the cost, availability and ease of getting it done. The radiator came and evidently they were out of the raw alum. ones because I got a very high polished aluminum radiator... I kinda hated to put this street rod looking rad in my old CJ cause she might feel bad about her other parts looking shabby Anyhow, i got to work early this morning, 58 degrees here in South Texas for a change.. everything was basically apart and fluid was already drained so got the air tools out and took a medium round brush and got the thermostat housing and head area clean. Cleaned all areas with PPG 501 to get any and all grease or oil off the surface and then applied the Ultra Grey to both halves, inserted a new Stant 180 thermostat and put it together until the edges just swelled out per instructions.. Waited an hour then tightened both nuts.. Installed radiator, new Gates Hoses, Ideal SS Clamps and ran all the coolant (fresh from previous radiator disaster) through paint filters and filled the radiator..l I then went and did some other stuff for about 6 hours I know it says to give it 24 hours, but it was around 85 in the shop so 6 was enough) then cranked her up and ran it up to temp, topped off rad and took her for a spin down a country road,,, Pretty good for an old fart, NO LEAKS and it runs right at 180 but the gauge jumps around so I am pretty sure it is good to go. I have new Autometer Gauges for Temp, Oil & Volts with Jeep logo that will go in tomorrow so will have a solid number.. Plus I will get my heat gun back from my buddy tonight and can check temps in coolant system and cylinder head,.. I am Ok with everything so far and this was the most cost effective fix for now.. If I succumb to the Stroker Disease then I will upgrade everything to a Griffin custom rad with dual Spal fans etc. and FlowKooler water pump.. Here is a picture of the cylinder head pitting. This folks is what well water and most city water will do to your cylinder head.. the housing part had no serious pitting.. the reason for this is the head is heat treated cast iron and the housing is cast aluminum or a pot metal mix.. nasty water is hell on hardened steel or iron.. Use Distilled Water or buy 50/50 if you are unsure.. well water (at my shop) is drinkable, but has high concentrations of iron oxide and sulphur so is very corrosive.. Getting started on cleaning and painting some of the engine parts like the nasty air cleaner... and general stuff tomorrow as well as the gauges.. Thanks, Gene
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