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Everything posted by Speed

  1. Do you,by chance,have a Buick 455 flywheel lying around the shop? I believe I have,or have access to,pretty much everything else I'd need to put it in my truck. Glad you have some interchange resources-that'd help me a lot. I priced a bell housing and flywheel last night,and for new parts on ebay I'm looking at close to $500.00 just for those two components. Add another $125.00 if my clutch is too thin to re-use. (It's developed a very minor chatter lately,not bad enough that I couldn't use it for a couple of years,but ?????)
  2. The weight should land real close to the same-the Jeep may actually be a few pounds lighter. Aerodynamics will be about the same as a barn door. I expect to lose a couple of MPG just due to that,but it should come out pretty close. The engine I'm using is pretty tired,but the original might be fine with a set of rings and bearings-I see a kit from Rock Auto for $76.00,and I'd have the head rebuilt,that'll be around $150.00 depending on the need for valves or guides,and I'll be going for a ceramic disc clutch,for $90.00,and it might be worth rebuilding the carb for $39.00. Question-what's the going rate for re-sealing the front axle,R&R'ing the axle shafts (I have a set of very low miles replacements) and a bearing pack? I need to do at least the rear brakes and axle seals,and replace the e-brake cables. Can I bypass that load equalizer valve? I've never driven it with it actually working,as far as I can tell. (I finally took the linkage off at the axle and tied it up at different heights,and couldn't feel any change in the braking.) BTW-my friend says he just spotted TWO Jeep trucks in a yard in Lee. (He drives s cement mixer,so he gets to places most of us can't access.) We might go check all of 'em out when he gets his truck registered. Speed
  3. Hi Moses; Dutch ALMOST has me convinced to just build a flatbed,but I STILL wanna see if I can make the Jeep pick up bed work. (It makes smoke come out of his ears every time I mention "Rednecking" something to make it fit.) I'm about 85% sure I can just take the fenders off the bed and setting the bed without 'em,then centering the fenders and bolting 'em back on with NEW holes after everything else is lined up. I don't really wanna spend time cut-n-pasting the bed to make it LOOK right. It's there to work,not look good. I know this goes against the ways of the measure everything crowd,but when the cab,bed,front group is here,I plan to just chart the wiring I might need to keep,disconnect everything lift the body off the Yota and set the Jeep front end on the trucks frame.get it attached to the frame where if fits right over the wheels,set the cab on stands and get IT lined up to the front group,build my mounts to fit,start setting up linkage for the column to steering box,mount the master cylinders,pedals and throttle and connect them,wire and connect the lights,gauges,switches etc.build the floor for it and get it mounted then work on the bed,then mount and wire the tail lights. After that I can work on the bumpers and hitch. All the other bits I can do as I go. I realize most people would get a ton of measurements and go into it knowing exactly how everything will fit,but I prefer to do it this way. I figure the only person I have to please is me,so if it isn't perfect,is ugly but works,that's good enough for me. Gives it CHARACTER. Speed
  4. Hi Moses; Dutch tells me the P&P in Carson/Moundhouse is a LOT nicer to deal with than the Sparks one. I don't know if I'd buy an engine from 'em though-the price isn't bad but it concerns me they won't let me hear it run before I buy. Also to be considered is the young punks who wander through the yard destroying things "just for fun";I caught one throwing dirt down the intake of a relatively new looking 454 last summer. I told the manager about it and identified the kid as he walked by,but the manager didn't seem inclined to detain him. The 302 I have is an older one,still carbureted,not much electronic but the ignition. no carb on it,I had to trade it for a Holley 500 (?) 2 barrel to put on the BroncWorth (once I get the jets,squirters and power valve matched to a 2.8. Don't know if there's other parts I have to match to the smaller engine or not. Seems weird to me that they use the same throttle bores for my 2.8 as they use for the 390 it came from. Dutch says he had a couple of V-8's since forever,but traded a 350 for a transfer case for his kids truck and sold a 305 about a week before I asked. I know where there's a Buick 455 I could acquire,but I have no flywheel or bellhousing. Well-I MIGHT have a bellhousing,I'll have to go look. (Then there's exhaust,radiator hoses,moving the starter wiring to the other side,etc.) It's ironic that my truck ran fine for a couple of weeks,so I insured and registered it and drove it for just about one day before it melted the guts out of the distributor. I built another distributor and it ran fine for two days,then,outta the blue,it started running like crap,WAY too rich.as near as I can tell. (Sounds like a Top Fueler until about 4000 rpm,where it starts to clean up and sounds ALMOST livable by MY redline of 4500.) Since then I've fought that thing for two months. I second guessed myself and gave it an OFFICIAL ignition tune up-cap,rotor,wires,plugs,but while it starts a lot easier,it still runs terrible. What told me it HAD to be a fuel problem was that I'd run 5 gallons of gas through it trying to sort it out,and it suddenly ran GREAT-for about 10 seconds,then ran out of gas. Dutch says,"dump about a quarter can of Seafoam in the tank,top it with another 5 gallons of gas and run it to empty again,or until it runs good again,then if you can afford it,do the same again. I figure that's cheaper and easier than a carb rebuild. I do have a kit for it,if THIS doesn't fix it. If my semi trailer or the BroncWorth sells,I'll GLADLY buy a new carb-I've NEVER owned a new,still in the box carb. Speed
  5. The compressor on the BroncWorth is the stock A/C compressor,drained and re-filled with 4 oz. 10W synthetic oil;it's been working fine for over 5 years of relatively continuous duty. This compressor I have for the Jimmy is different,but is done the same way;I still need to modify the inlet/outlet lines to work-easy stuff,and make the mounting bracket to hang it on the right side of the 302,which I'll mock up on my old 270 block. The reason I thought of you on the engine is that I have friends headed that way next time Pick&Pull has a half price day,so they could do a deliver and pick up for me. I also thought you might know somebody who may be interested in a trade. If they don't want a Ford motor,what do they want? I might still be able to work something up. Up here,small blocks are of 2 varieties-Expensive and basket case. Big sixes rarely show up at all. I guess a 250 six would be okay too. They WERE available in the one tons too. Speed
  6. The Yota is a longbed,so it looks like about 8" too short for the Jeep. I believe I can move the fenders forward 8 inches. I won't worry about 8" more bed at the back. It appears most of the layout is about the same,so if I match my front axle to the stock Jeep location,I'm betting the rest will line up pretty close. The 22R is a pretty short motor and sits close to the radiator,so there should be plenty of clearance at the firewall. Since I expect to have to build a new floor,it won't be too hard to shape it to fit the transmission and transfer case. I do have a guy who's a GREAT fabricator,and I figure when its time to set the cab on the frame he can help me get everything located and weld up the mounts. When the cab is placed and located with a couple of mounts,I can make the floor and get it installed,then locate and build the rest of the mounts. (Hopefully I can use the Toyota mounts.) I'll go out in the morning and get some basic measurements off the yota,see how things match up. I figure,since this won't be a show truck I won't be too adverse to some "Redneck -Engineering" to make things work. Speed
  7. Funny you mention the truck's brakes. I already switched it to a dual reservoir master cylinder (from a '79 Chevy one ton van-same 2" bore as stock);there's room for a booster,but it works so well without the booster I haven't seen a need for it yet. I DID use an aftermarket adjustable proportioning valve,bolted inside the right frame rail behind the running board. Took a while to get my front/rear bias tuned in,but I'm happy with it now. (Even pulling the semi trailer from Whiterock to Last Chance Rd, it stopped fine.) I used to have a V-twin A/C compressor,but couldn't find it when last I looked for it. That York-is it a solid looking upright single piston,looks to be aluminum? My plan is to use the GM compressor I've already prepped,and plumb enough air tank capacity to make up for the smaller compressor. (It'll make more than enough pressure and except for an extreme case will provide fast enough recovery to do what I need. Of course,the DOT may see it differently. How much is the Membership fee? Any plans to offer stickers,hats,T-shirts,etc. in the future? Hey-while I have your attention,do you know anyone who has a running smallblock Chevy or a Chevy 292 they might trade for an '85 or so 302 Ford engine? It was a good runner when the guy I got it from pulled it,but he decided to go for a 429 for his truck and closed this one up and stored it in his garage. I used the 2 barrel carb,but other than that it's complete,with a starter,alternator, flywheel and clutch. I need either a small block or a 292 six to put in my '74 Chevy one ton duallie,while I pull the 355 apart and fix a couple of problems. (a broken piston ring and a crank that was improperly prepped. The machinist ,as near as I can tell,machined the rods and mains to .010 under,THEN polished a few more thousandths off it,so when it's cold,with fresh 15/40 in it,it gets around 60 pounds of oil pressure,but once warmed up to running temperature,the oil pressre's only around 35 pounds,a couple of times,under load it dropped to 20,and that's with the high volume oil pump. It doesn't make any noises and it'd probably hold up,but I like to see a little more pressure than that. I plan to keep the crank and just put a good stock iron crank and bearings in it,and worry about the steel crank later. But that's about a $400.00 venture,so it'll have to wait. In the meantime I need it to run reliably enough to handle an occasional highway trip,so I can get my Toyota/Jeep project accomplished. Speed
  8. HEY Moses!!!! I'm FINALLY back! I posted in the Toyota Forum with my new project. No-I didn't get a lot of response to selling the GMC,so I'm keeping it. Sadly,it looks like the Cummins conversion isn't in the stars,unless a kind soul donates a donor truck. I'm okay with the ol' 302 anyway-it'd work fine for me if I throw a ring-n-bearing job on it and convert it to HEI and a Holley 2 barrel carb. (I DID think VERY briefly of swapping in a 500 Caddy...) I've had the flatbed off it and have been using the 5th wheel to move trailers for friends,but I plan to set the bed back on it in a week or two. I'm going to set it back about 6 inches from the cab,to make room for a proper set of stacks. (single Flowmaster muffler with 4" in and out under the cab,into a "Y",and a foot of flex pipe into each stack,then about 16 inches above the cab,4 inch diameter.Not sure about the mounts but I want 'em attached to the cab,just outside the ends of the rear glass. That way I can keep the stacks even without the flatbed. (That's also the reason for the flex pipe-so cab twisting on the mounts won't rip holes in the back of the cab. Still working on an air system for it-I figured out a v-belt pulley to fit the crank that will work with an A/C compressor I have prepped to use. (Crank pulley off a 60's Chevy smallblock,held on with the GMC balancer bolt and locked from spinning loose by drilling and threading 3 holes in the balancer and bolting it on.) I still have a 270 block I can use to mock up brackets etc. without having to hang upside down in the engine compartment I'll set the compressor up just like I did on the BroncWorth but with bigger air tank capacity. Not exactly sure how to plumb it clean enough to satisfy the DOT,but I plan to install a pair of glad hands on the back of the cab and some back by the hitch,to make it so I can operate air trailer brakes with a lever on the column. Since I'll only need 'em for emergencies I'd rather not get into the connection from hydraulic brakes to Air trailer brakes. (K.I.S.S. concept) I'm not going to use the truck for Commercial hauling or towing,just to move my own stuff around,so maybe they won't be so strict. BTW-I have the BroncWorth up for sale,if you know anyone who might be interested. It's posted on Craigslist-Elko and Ruby Want Ads. The sale of it will be financing my membership here and my other two projects. Well,talk to you later.
  9. Hi all! It's good to be back! My computer melted down and I lost ALL my contact info for EVERYBODY-even my utilities,but I'm getting everything back,on a donated computer. I'm not sure whether to put this here or in the Jeeps Forum. I have a 1981 Toyota 4X4 pick up,but the whole cab and bed is not only rusted out,it was rolled back around '84-5. Everything still works,the left door is bent badly enough it's hard to shut or roll the window up or down. I have a plan though. I've located a couple of mid 50's-early 60's Willys Jeep pick ups,one is just the frame,cab,bed and front group-no drivetrain at all. I still have to look it over closer. The other one is,from what my friend tells me,a complete truck less the engine. What I want to do is strip the Yota down to frame and running gear,and use a Jeep truck body on it. I believe the weight,length,width and track is compatible. I'd use the Jeep heater (MUCH less complicated),Yota clutch and brake pedals,possibly Yota wipers and except for the Jeep speedometer use aftermarket gauges and switches and maybe the Yota bench seat. The big Q on the bare Jeep body is rust-it came from about 50 feet from a lake,so I'm assuming I'll have to at least put floors in the cab and bed,it might be worse. I think I have a relatively good handle on what I need to do here. Has anyone done this conversion? What would you expect to be the hard-to-make-work areas? I'll need to locate a converter for the speedometer cable-Toyota transfer case to Jeep gauge. If I can't find a way to use the Toyota wipers,I'll have to find used linkage etc. and order an electric conversion kit from Newport Engineering ($$$) I'm pretty sure I can make everything else work. Speed
  10. I got the 302 just because the guy was moving and ran outta room in the truck for it. Sounds as hard as I thought it'd be to put a 302 in it. I THINK I know where to find a 390,but it's a builder and the owner wants big $$ for it. As I understand it,all that's really wrong with the 360 is somebody broke off all the exhaust manifold bolts,and the owner says the float stuck last time he ran it. It's been 3 or 4 years since it's been run. Might be worth dropping the manifolds off and seeing if I can get the broken bolts removed. That and a carb rebuild could be all it needs.
  11. I'm looking at a '71 Ford F-250 4X4,360/4 speed;the motor needs work,but I have an '86 302. What all do I have to change to put a small block in place of a big block? The 302 has a flywheel and clutch on it,and comes with a starter and alternator. I believe the truck has 4.10 gears,and currently has no wheels/tires,but I can fix that easily enough. Will the truck's 360 bell housing bolt up to a small block? That's my big concern,that and will the 360 starter work with the small block flywheel,or will the 360 flywheel fit the 302? I'll plan to replace the release bearing and pilot bushing/bearing. I know the exhaust will need to be modified, Linkage for clutch should be close to a correct fit if the 360 bell housing can stay,throttle linkage may need to be lengthened but should line up well.Not sure about the fuel line,the ignition wiring will have to move from the front to the rear of the engine,and I don't have a clue on the gauge senders and wiring, I'm looking into this to get something pre-electronics for Winter transportation. I'm goin' back to the basics. I'm also hoping to get a smokin' deal on it. Speed
  12. Well,I got the vacuum hose dilemma solved,got the distributor clocked so #1 is in line with the vacuum advance and set the timing at 12 degrees BTDC. This flasher unit operates both the turn signals and the emergency flashers. Looking at the wiring diagram,it'd be a monster to re-engineer. Decided it'd be cheaper and easier to just pay the $36.00 for the correct flasher unit,when I can,and call it good. I DID notice the exhaust manifold gasket leaks pretty bad,so next payday I'll be replacing it;the exhaust leak might have been part of the rough running. (the psychological part.) Speed
  13. I just installed the '83 22R I got for my '81 4X4 pick up. I have some minor problems to sort out on it. 1-Since I got the truck to run,it seems to run strong,but idles like it has at least one dead plug. I had replaced the distributor with the one from my '81 engine,which worked fine,so I wouldn't have to change the wiring plug to fit the newer engine. I set the timing at 10 degrees,but I'll have to pull the distributor and turn the shaft a tooth to reach the 12 degrees I want. After I noticed the rough idle,I replaced the cap,rotor and plug wires with those off my old engine,which only had about 100 miles on 'em since new. Didn't help,so I changed to my old plugs,which also had only 100 miles on 'em. That got me a smooth idle for about 6 seconds,then back to the rough idle. If I poke the throttle,it hits strong on all four,but if I float the engine at any RPM,the roughness comes back. This engine shows around 60 psi oil pressure cold,about 30 warm,and no visible smoke or leaks. I intended to run a compression test,but the hose for my compression gauge has gone missing,along with the adapters. 2-Can I run it with just the distributor's advance tube connected and the retard line capped? These two lines and the power brake hose are the only vacuum lines currently being used. every other vacuum port is capped or plugged. There's no smog pump or Cat. Converter on the truck. 3-What kind of a bag of snakes would it be to convert this truck to a normal turn signal flasher? The combination turn/emergency flasher relay hasn't been very reliable and is quite expensive to replace. Speed
  14. "Are you working your way up to a 472 or 500 Cadillac swap into the GMC 350? The Caddy swap crossed my mind, I think I'll leave it as it is for now though. Take steering gear clearance into account, I'd like to know if this is practical. The 350 Ser. has a wider frame,but I haven't measured to see how it all shakes out.A friend suggested cutting the column just outside the firewall,adding a u-joint and using a cabover steering box with a longer drag link to make some clearance where it'd normally be tight,but I don't know how seriously he researched it out. The SM420 would fit the pilot, what's the input shaft size on your Clark 5-speed? The Clark was an option on this truck,so I'm figuring it'd fit the same pilot as the 420 does; If not,it won't take much to get a pilot bushing/bearing that'll work. I can even find a clutch disc that'll work. clutch Wonder if the BOP flywheel fits the Cadillac crank flange or whether you're back to Cad Company's billet flywheel...I'd just use the Cad flywheel as there are so many variables in trying to use a BOP flywheel. Curious if the $45 pilot bushing is a bearing or bronze bushing, would guess the latter. If so, perhaps the I.D. could be sized to match the Clark input shaft. Advance Adapters has a shelf full of bronze pilot bearings if you know the sizes. They can even size a bushing to fit. Issue here is Oilite material, a necessity for longevity...Also, the bushing material must match the input shaft hardness/design. If sizing is not an obstacle, a caged (greased and shielded/sealed) bearing with the correct I.D. and O.D. could bridge this gap. The I.D. would need to be a somewhat interference fit on both the input nose and into the pilot bore.' My experience with a caged bearing in a pilot application id that you can't install an engine with one unless EVERYTHING is PERFECTLY aligned. BTW,I have to tow that 40 foot semi trailer from White Rock to Last Chance Road,so I unbolted the flatbed and hopefully Tomorrow Ben will lift the bed off the '54 with his forklift. Then I'll drive it up to my house and install the 5th wheel plate (from my '45 Mack-an original articulated 1945 Dayton hitch) and get it ready to work. (I need to fix the stop lights tie some wiring up and maybe run some carb cleaner through it.) I SHOULD get a trailer plug wired in too. I'll do that,and find an RV 7 blade to Commercial plug adapter if I have time. I might as well-it looks like I'll be needing it often. I already got an offer to tow a double wide from a few miles West of Elko to a place out in River Ranch,,two trips,about160 miles total. Even though it'd be fairly good money,I'm gonna pass. I know the guy who's doing this deal,and I see SO many possibilities for disaster. I finally convinced him to get the Title for the '69 Cornbinder 1800 trailer mover he traded into,get the injector pump rebuilt,throw a used set of rear tires on it that still have tread and just move it himself. Then he won't have to hire a truck and driver. (He has a CDL,all he has to do is get his endorsement for oversize loads.) Speed
  15. I don't know if this is the right place for this,but I'm putting the '54 GMC up for sale. I'd love to keep it,but I need money more than I need the truck now. It's advertised on Craigslist Reno,SLC,Boise,Vegas,Sacramento and Bay area for $4,000.00. I'll knock a few bucks off for members of this Forum. Time is short,so contact me at sk8080hd@yahoo.com-the creditors won't wait. Speed
  16. I fought with a 2.5 in a Comanche pick up for about a week after swapping a good engine in;I tried everything I could think of,replaced the distributor,the module,traced the wiring to look for breaks-nothing. I finally towed it to a shop and told 'em what was wrong and the mechanic/co-owner said he'd call me when he had it running. I left and he called just as I got home. I could hear it idling in the background. He said,"You can come and get it now." When I got there,I asked what I owed him for the work,and he just said,"Have a great day." Turns out I'd forgotten to plug in that sensor on the bellhousing,and the Tech just plugged it in and started the truck.. Speed
  17. I've never had any trouble with HF mechanical products;their air tools are a little iffy (my 3/8 inch butterfly impact leaks horribly at the flex junction for the air chuck,so did the one I took back to get this one.) Unless you don't mind re-wiring new stuff,avoid the magnetic tow lights (their magnets are weak,but if you have a couple of old stereo speakers you can fix that.) and the electric winches with wireless remotes-of 6 smaller winches I've had,not ONE wireless remote worked,even with new batteries.(These were from before Badlands-haven't seen any problems with THEM except the struts that hold the end plates together are too close to the cable drum,so if the cable doesn't wrap perfectly it stacks and bunches up against 'em. I built a set of spacers for my neighbor's 12K model to give it about an inch more space-problem solved.) BTW-their cable is about a 5 of 10,strong enough,but cheap-it'll rats nest very easily. It's worth going to a wire &cable wholesaler and getting GOOD cable,like the professional towing outfits use,and it's really not that expensive. They'll even put the ends of your choice on the cable,so it's an exact replacement. I used a 4" grinder from HF for about 3 years before it started quitting for no reason. I replaced the fancy rocker switch with a basic toggle switch and it worked great for about a year,then started screwing up again so I got a Milwaukee on sale out at Home Depot. I have a 10 ton floor jack I've abused terribly over the years,and it's still working great-its weak spot is that it'll lose the e-clips on the ends of the pins the linkage all pivots on.I had some kinda wide spiral locks that fit well and it hasn't lost any of those yet. Speed PS-Hi Moses!
  18. Mine is an '84,mostly. Like most vehicles its age,it's had some "creative" wiring done,and some mods done by accident. We're looking at approx. 10 days of cold,snowy weather,so I'm going to leave it as is for now. Today through Tuesday it's supposed to be above freezing for a couple of hours a day but I'd like a little bigger "window" than that,knowing I'll have to stop and warm my hands from time to time. Under and left of the steering column under hood there's a bundle of wires that show signs of melting at a plug;there are a couple of purple wires with white tracers that are pretty crispy,one is bare for half an inch going into the plug. I've isolated everything and tried to seal 'em up with liquid tape,I can't get hands on 'em to tape or heat-shrink 'em. So far everything else seems to work okay except the start position ignition feed,so if that wire isn't purple w/white tracer,I'm not sure what the purple goes to. On a slightly different subject,I find it interesting that on GM stuff,you can't leave your ignition on the run position (that's what I'm told anyway) with the engine dead or it smokes the module,but on my Bronco II it doesn't hurt it a bit-I don't even HAVE an accessory position on my ignition switch-I just leave the key on to listen to the radio while I work. I'm hoping the Dura-Spark II system also works this way. Speed
  19. I've decided to go with a 10si one wire 63@ alternator;bought one new from NAPA for about sixty five bucks,I'll install it tomorrow,since it's supposed to get up to 40 degrees with no snow or rain. It'll be just that much more wiring I can eliminate. I guess the only way to fix the start circuit power issue will be to find the wiring from the ignition switch,find the wire I need and trace it out to see where it disappeared to. I fixed this same problem on my Fairmont by replacing one melted wire,but I don't remember what wire I replaced,and I don't know how close the B-II wiring is to the Fairmont's. That happened back when I still knew everything. I've discovered the wiring diagrams in my Haynes manual are absolutely worthless to me. Most of the connectors,junctions,plugs and bridges are represented only by numbers,there's no code to tell what's what. Very sketchy color codes,and every component is represented by a box instead of a picture,and they're not located correctly in comparison to other components,so if you're not already familiar with the vehicle's wiring,it's near impossible to make any sense of them. Anyway,that'll pretty much take care of making the BroncWorth reliable. I STILL haven't had time to do anything about the throttle cable,but if there's time that might also happen tomorrow. (I notice it's 3:15 AM,but it's not officially tomorrow until I sleep and wake up.) Speed
  20. In addition to enabling one to attend to other stuff,I've discovered stepping away for a week or so will allow my mind to sort things through a bit and take a more "abstract" look at the problem. Often that's when I'll think of something I missed,didn't think of or DID think of but passed off as "not even remotely possible" but suddenly seems much more possible. I have about a dozen projects I rotate through.I work on one until I reach a seemingly insurmountable problem,put it in storage and work on something else until I either finish it or reach a seemingly insurmountable problem,store IT and work on the next one. Most times,the "insurmountable problem",when I come back to it later,isn't so hard to figure out and fix. Speed
  21. I did the oil change on the BroncWorth last night;drained about 3-4 quarts of oil and about a gallon of gas out of the crankcase. Installed a new FL1-A filter,4.5 quarts of 20W-50 oil and a can of "Restore" oil treatment. I drove the truck around,running some errands,and it runs very well,and shows just under 50 pounds of oil pressure cold,about 35-40 warmed up. Has plenty of torque from idle on up,revs cleanly to where I chicken out and get off the throttle. (about 4500 r's) I did notice some foam in the coolant;I'll monitor the fluid levels and see if anything is increasing or decreasing. Didn't smell burning coolant in the exhaust or gas/exhaust in the radiator. I can't drive it extensively because it's down to 1/8 tank of gas (with 79 miles since last fill up-approx 2.5 mpg!!) Expecting MUCH better mileage;it FEELS like it's still running a little fat though-is there a way to lean it out just a little from 1,000 rpm up without re-jetting it? Regarding lifting the front end "just a little": "The entire front axle needs to drop down as an assembly" What I'm seeing is the front is developing a little bit of "VW squat",so what I'm looking to do is just lift it an inch or so at the springs.(Same effect as putting a stiffer torsion bar on a VW's rear suspension when you install a Corvair engine. Just makes the wheels stand upright again.) Standing back and looking at it,it doesn't look as bad as I thought;maybe I'll just have the alignment shop check the alignment and check it for parts that are terminal. I don't really want to go for a "Lift Kit"-I just want the front springs to pick up the nose about an inch or so,not messing with the pivot point. Coincidentally,the Toyota,s almost empty of oil,developed a leak in a heater hose under the intake manifold a few days ago,and the brakes are still being wacky. I drove it to Walmart for oil and filter for the BroncWorth,it wouldn't start when I was ready to leave,so I caught a ride with a friend. Had another friend take me,a new battery,gallon of coolant and a tow chain up there this afternoon;swapped the battery,filled the radiator and threw the chain in the bed and it fired right up. Drove it down to the traffic light and the brakes were pretty low. Got to the next light and they were just gone. Got the truck home and though the pedal was still low,they were dragging bad enough I had to use 4W-low range to back it into the driveway-rear wheels just spun in 2WD. I think it's about finished for a while. I'll try a master cylinder and brake fluid flush and re-bleed in a couple of months if I can get enough $$ ahead. (I ALSO need to "wash" the underside of the Toyota before I start any serious work on it. I'm thinking about half a dozen cans of "Family Dollar" oven cleaner and a high pressure nozzle on the garden hose should do it. I'll just pretend I don't see the skating rink that'll make in the alley. Speed
  22. Actually,I was looking for a Road King Classic when I bought this one,but the one I wanted (lowest price of 3) was still $1,000.00 more than I could pay,and the seller had a specific need to get that price. Dutch spotted this one on Craigslist and suggested I go and look at it. Once there,I was impressed with the seller's honesty and integrity (He pointed out EVERY thing that needed attention.),and the price was in my range;I asked if he'd take $500.00 less for it,and he agreed,AND he filled the gas tank on it for me,at no charge. This bike wasn't what I really wanted,but I like it a lot anyway. One thing I've always liked about Harleys is that you can easily do a lot to 'em to make 'em pleasing and comfortable to YOU. (Well,it USED to be that way-these newer ones are harder to work with-too complicated.) I'd thought about spending the money to build a complete aftermarket "V-Twin" Panhead,with an 88" motor and the rest (except for disc brakes and other upgrades-32@ alternator,electric/kick start,LittleJohn "5 speed-in-a-4-speed-case" trans.) would be traditional '48 Pan. But THAT would have taken all of a year to paint and assemble,so I took (what I THOUGHT was) the easy way out. I may STILL do that later on if I should get another chance. Speed
  23. The deal on the S&S Shorty E fell through-the guy's son "appropriated" it to run on his Sportster. I shopped around on eBay,but the best deal I could find was JUST a used carb for $100.00,BIN. Not such a great deal since the enrichener lever and plunger were gone,no manifold,no air cleaner,and it looked like it'd been dropped into the oil sump. For what it'd take to make it work,I could do a LOT of work on my stock carb. Once I have the BroncWorth worked out,maybe I'll work up the $40.00 and get the "Fix-it" kit and see what I can do to it,or if I can cover it financially,take a ride up to Boise and look up the CV Harley Guru and get it "worked"....I'm told this guy can make the bike run like it should,get my mileage close to 50,and get better power than it has now. (Which is already plenty for the way I ride.)Probably costs cubic bucks,but if he does what they SAY he does,it'll be worth it. You mentioned the "Restoration" line of thought,and I'm with you on that,mostly. I see a LOT that I want to change on my bike,mostly bolt-on and appearance stuff. Crossover dual pipes,short glass pack mufflers,painted high-temp flat black,with stainless steel tips,kick starter,mini-spring post and T bar with a Police solo seat,early style air filter with a K&N element,original style "FL bars" like the 50's Police bikes used (only ONE piece bars,with wiring dimples),a Knuck style luggage rack on the fender,and some old school BIG leather oval saddlebags. My bike,with these improvements,would be everything I want in a bike. Speed
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