Jump to content


Subscriber Members
  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Speed

  1. At this point I'm not really choosy about what axles I use.like I said,if there's room for spring pads,a left side carrier,and 3.55 or deeper gearing,I can make 'em work. Any other axle sets that might work? I thought about Land Cruiser axles,but they can't be found for less than a fortune. The guy at Elko Wire Rope says this cable is 5/16",like the original,7X19, and is rated at something over 9,000 pounds,which I'm guessing is nearly twice the rating of the one I destroyed. The cable appears the same as what I took off,but FEELS much less likely to "rats nest" than the original one. It spooled onto the drum as neat as I could have hoped.I bought 60 feet of cable instead of the stock 50 foot,and though it's a little close to the cross supports I think it'll tuck in a little once it's been stressed a couple of times. Speed
  2. BTW-I broke the cable on my 5K winch,so I'm getting a quote from "Elko Wire Rope" to get the same size/length,plus one wrap,of their best quality cable. Having the winch down has made a one day job into a three day (so far) job. That "Badlands" winch from Harbor Freight is a pretty good unit if you get GOOD cable on it. Speed
  3. The main things I'm concerned with are which side axle drop is on,and the spring pad width,or room to fit spring pads. So far the Toyota is 29" spring pad width center to center,and the axle drop is on the left. The Jeep Cherokee is 31" spring pad width and has a right side axle drop, A '78 J-10 has a 32" spring pad width and a right side axle drop. I checked this one just because it was there.. I suspect most of GM's axles will be similar,though Dutch says Suburbans have left side drop. I'm calling a loss on the Jeep Cherokee/Comanche axles,mainly due to the axle drop,and the J-10 for the same reason but I was told about a Chevy LUV 4X4;. I'm not sure what year it is,and when I make contact with the owner I'll need him to dig it out of a pile of cars. In '77,when I worked for a Chevy dealer,the 4X4 LUV was offered as a special order conversion,but I don't know where the axles or T/C were sourced from. I remember they were only available with a 4.10 ratio. We had one on the lot and I drove it a LOT. When Chevy started producing them in '79,if I remember correctly,they used an IFS instead of the leaf spring solid axle,so it'll be a one year wonder if it fits....I'll keep looking Speed
  4. Okay-What would it cost to swap the gears from the MJ front housing to the XJ "spare" axle? This is a worst case scenario. If it turns out all this stuff is not compatible in any form,I'm looking at a mid 70's Chevy truck axle set. I'm just wondering how different they'll be in width,available width for spring pad attachment,etc. and which side the carrier is on. (I don't even know THAT about the Jeep axles.) I'm going out there tomorrow to get #'s,measurements and comparing ratios for a possible match.
  5. Okay-the '82 Toyota 4X4 is officially mine. I sold my semi trailer for $800.00,spent some on bills and gassed up my bike,my Toyota and 3 gas cans. ( I SHOULDA paid some more bills with the money,but-priorities,ya know?) STILL not sure what I'm doing for axles for it. It occurred to me that the Cherokee axle has 5 on 4-1/2 wheels,and the Comanche,I THINK,has six lugs. (I never saw the hubs because the wheels had caps on 'em.) So I'll ride out tomorrow and see what I can learn. If these don't pan out,maybe FS Chevy axles.(?) The seller said this '82 has a SQUARE tube front drive line-anyone know anything about those? He said it seemed to be fine up to about 50 mph,vibration-wise. With any luck I'll be able to run a front axle with locking hubs,so balance won't be as much of an issue. Are full sized Chevy axles a common swap? If not,what would be a good choice?
  6. Hi all; I'm working on an idea for mix-n-match of Jeep parts (front and rear axles) and my "rollin' wreck" Toyota 4X4 truck. I've been given a rear end from an '88 Comanche that was wrecked and s "spare" front axle I THINK is from an '89 Cherokee. It's a pretty long drive to 'em,so I'm trying to do some research before making the trip. I think the front axle is from a Cherokee with an automatic,and the Comanche axle was from a 5 speed model. What are my chances of them having the same gear ratio? If they're different,I can get the Comanche front end too,but the right end is torn off;how much of a bag-o-snakes is it to swap the gears over to the other housing? (I hope it's built like my Toyota with a removable carrier.) Thanks in advance for ANY information you can offer-the repair manuals don't show any pics of the axle housings so I don't know HOW they're built. Speed
  7. Here's my LATEST challenge. The Yota has no brakes. They've acted "peculiar" since I got this rolling wreck,but NOW they're just flatlined.I've installed new calipers,brake pads,and master cylinder a few months ago,I knew at that time the rear brakes were fubarred due to leaky axle seals-they worked fine around town,but after 20 miles of highway,the rear brakes would drag the truck down to a stop. Bleed a brake line of some fluid at the master cylinder and it was good to go for a few more miles. I adjusted the shoes as loose as they'd go,and shortened the master cylinder push-rod as short as it could go,THEN the brakes worked FINE for almost a year. Then I started losing fluid,but could find NO leaks. Simple,right? Master cylinder leaking into the booster. If it is,it's going straight through the vacuum hose,into the engine's cylinders. But usually I can smell burning brake fluid in the exhaust,but not here. If fluid is pooling in the booster,there's likely over a gallon in there by now. I'm thinking I'll gather new everything and go through the brakes (and rear axle seals) from one end to the other. Without replacing brake lines,I can get everything else I need for around $100.00,not sure about brake lines. That part of the job could be costly,metric lines and all. Thought about putting the big GMC back on the road,but it'd cost me around $70.00 to transfer plates and insurance. Speed
  8. It LOOKS to be in decent shape,so I don't think it has a lot of miles on it. not banged up,usual issues aside from the engine-brakes,tires,glass seals,little rust,etc. Since it was used only for setting power poles in town,I'd be surprised if it has 100K on it. UPDATE-06-06-2018 My '54 GMC is likely to get only a little upgrading;.I have an OEM radio for it I need to have rebuilt,if I can find anyone who can do it. I'm also needing to replace the rear section of my drive shaft as its yoke is worn out. I SHOULD replace the clutch,but probably will wait until it gets enough chatter to shake the mirrors out of adjustment. The engine could stand a rings-n-bearings job,but that'll have to wait until I have some money to invest. I'm going to revisit using the truck to haul scrap metal to the scrap recyclers in Southern Idaho and Northern Utah,since Pacific Steel is paying considerably less than anywhere else I could go. I figure my 2 Ton can haul enough to make the trip profitable for me. Speed
  9. Hi all; I'm giving thought to ANOTHER '82 Toyota 4X4 pick up. It's in pretty nice condition except for the front fenders,but even those are way better than the ones on my rolling wreck. I can get it for $500.00 relatively complete. All that's missing is both axles-the springs are still there,it runs and was functional and operable before the owner pulled both axles to rebuild for his 4Runner. Here's what I'm considering-I'll have access this Summer to an '88 Jeep Comanche that was rolled,and I'm looking at swapping its axles under the Toyota. I expect they'll be too wide,and the spring spacing will be off,but I feel like it could still work. The springs under the Toyota are a 4 inch lift,so that might leave enough room for tire clearance with wider axles. Haven't looked into this very deeply yet,mostly wanted to see if anyone out there has done this before. It'll have taller gearing so it'd be a good truck for longer drives and highway use,and the Rolling Wreck will still be a solid work truck. (I also located a 2WD Toyota truck that has the SR5 trim and the dash with Tachometer,it runs and drives but has no title,so I'd have to drive it to Sparks and get that handled,then it'd be a parts truck,mainly the cab and front group for the wreck,and possibly the engine-I'd have to check the compression etc. to decide that. That's a lot of work,but it'd pay off in the long run. The rolling wreck is down while I get the brakes to work again. (The Cops are really tweaky about brakes for some reason...) I have a '92 Grand Cherokee now that was vandalized,I'll sell it for around $450.00 or so;no glass,front group ravaged,no front wheels/tires flat tires on the rear, has the 4.0 inliner/automatic and AWD,roof rack and receiver hitch,pretty nice interior but the dash was hurt a little when the stereo was stolen. I'm currently working on getting the Title and Bill o'Sale from the owner. Selling this will pay my Gas-n-Electric this month. I know this isn't the place for selling things,but... Speed
  10. Seems like everything kinda blew up at the same time. I believe I coulda made it work but the Jeep body owner decided to keep it,another one surfaced but that guy wants more for it than for a NEW Jeep,finances changed,the VIN bailywick seems to get more complicated every time I talk to the "experts" at DMV ,etc. I decided instead to throw most of my effort and meager finances into just making the Yota run right,go down the road at a reasonable speed and stop well. Then I'll figure out the cheapest/easiest way to keep it dry inside in the rainy season. (Probably still go with a flatbed with fold up sides though,) Speed
  11. Hi all; Taking a long hard look at my '81 Toyota 4X4 truck,it finally became obvious to me how much RUST is present. This truck was rolled at 128,000 miles,but everything still worked,at least marginally. The floor on the left side was virtually gone when I got the truck,but I patched it with a piece of old road sign. I know the bed is rusted out a little in the floor,but worse is that it's rusted out probably 1/3 of the perimeter of the floor/bed sides and ends. I figured I'd probably end up building a flat bed for it anyway,so I didn't worry. What I'm now facing is the fact that the ROOF is rusted out;it leaks on the gearshift,on the edge of the passenger seat,on the CB mike,and right behind the mirror. The one small crack in the windshield has spidered pretty dramatically. Since all the leaks are above the windshield, what would be the possibility of just cutting the roof at the bottom of the windshield posts and just below the rear window (the rear window opening is pretty warped too,the rear slider is not fitting well.) I have a friend who can weld everything as needed,and I figured once that was done I'd have a new windshield installed;I don't especially care how pretty or ugly it looks since it's just a work truck.ugly's actually more in the truck's character. I also need to replace the left door since the rollover kinda "folded" the door,top to bottom, in line with the rear edge of the wind wing. The main reason I'm considering the roof job is because I was given a cab that was hit pretty hard on the right side,but the left door's good,the roof and glass/door openings measure out as intact. If I do a cab swap I'll have to buy one,and there'll be the issue of a different VIN to reckon with. Comments or suggestions? Speed
  12. Hi Moses; I think I have this filter thing figured out. All I need is a used Weber air filter base and lid,and I can make a canister from sheet metal,high enough to accommodate a pipe the right size for a flex hose to fit over it and be clamped on,probably 4 inch or so,probably squeezed down to an oval shape to make for more hood clearance. Connect the flex hose to the air filter housing and it's done. BTW-the engine's sounding and running worse,so I'd better start gathering parts to do the rebuild. I had my spare room rented for a short time by a young couple,but the Husband repeatedly violated the "NO problem drinkers" part of the agreement,and the Wife threw him out without any word from me. A few days later her friends in her Church invited her to live with them for free,so she left too. (I can't blame her-I would have gone for a free room too.) I was looking forward to using the rental money to get the Yota and the GMC done,but now that'll have to wait for a while. Anyway,as soon as the room is occupied again I'll start buying the parts. I'm going to do the brakes first,then get the carb and related parts,then the clutch,then order the ring-n-bearing kit, then get the head done (Milled if needed,valves done,new parts as needed),and finally do the rebuild. Once it's done,it shouldn't take much more than a weekend to swap the engines. I know the trick for installing and tightening the bell housing bolts now. If anyone out there has an exhaust header for a 22R they don't need,I can work up a few bucks to buy it. (I can't BELIEVE how the price has gone up for a new one!) With these things taken care of (and possibly replacing the shocks,which all look like the ones the truck was born with),the truck will be roadworthy to travel in. Speed
  13. Lot of cool set ups there. All I really need is the initial elbow from the top of the Weber carb;I can work out the rest of it. Speed
  14. I guess if it'd help,I could build an intake hose from the inlet of the air box to the top of the windshield on the right side,but it'd sure be UUUUUUGLY. (LMAO,realizing that as banged up as this truck is,how could an air intake hose possibly make it look WORSE?) Rather not do this though,it'd be wasted effort. I'd want to relocate all my breathers for the diffs,TX and T/C before messing with crossings,besides,I need to do brakes and all seals on the diffs or they'd fill with water and sink like the Titanic . This carb is missing a couple of pieces of linkage,so I might just order a "kit" (if I can remember where I FOUND a "complete conversion kit"),with the correct carb,adapter,set of main jets and I can get a pressure regulator like I used on the GMC (set at 3-1/2 #) for around $15.00. I'm sure Weber Tech can tell me what main jets work between 4000 feet (Reno) and 6000 (surrounding areas near Elko). Elko is at 5100 feet,the top of our flag pole is at a Mile high,and Lamoille Summit is 6000 feet. If I go to my likely extreme,Spruce Mtn. is at 10,262 wretched feet. I know that because I read it on the Geological Survey marker about 100 feet from,and 20 feet below the site I maintained the Generators in,and that I walked off that hill many times,for various reasons. (Snow cat won't start,truck won't start,helicopter crashed,snow cat broke,Repair helicopter crashed,truck broke,etc.) Can't say I miss that. Speed
  15. Yeah,I see what you mean. I was considering something more like an air box from something like a Dodge Diesel (because I have one) connected to the carb with a flex tube (If I can find a good fitting connector for the carb). I'm not too worried about flooding the engine,I got my indoctrination on the down side of those while my friend and I were fording the south fork of the Humboldt about a week before Christmas one year in his Jeep. We'd made the crossing a half dozen times before with no problems,but this time was different. A property owner somewhere out there decided to "remodel" the crossing,leaving the water depth about 3 feet deeper than before. The J-10 sank to where the river water reached the bottom of the dash,but with the thrashing to get out it was up to the windshield before we carried his guns to shore and started walking back to town. The next morning we went back to retrieve the Jeep. It ended up taking 3 other 4X4's and about 300 feet of chain. I steered the Jeep which was towed by a 3/4 ton Suburban. The Jeep was frozen solid and just skidded the tires for about 500 feet until the wheels started turning. VERY slow trip to town. To revisit a prior post,I discovered a Weber carb I was given a couple of years ago,so I might go with that. Dutch tells me they work well on the 22R and provide very good mileage. Of course the same concerns apply. Speed
  16. The engine I'll be working on has about a month of driving on it since I installed a new double row timing set with the heavy duty sliders and tensioner.It ran great when I was done but leaked oil from the timing cover-I had one bolt hole just below the head gasket surface that was so buggered up I couldn't make it tighten,but needed the transportation so I just kept a gallon of oil in the back and would top it off whenever I needed to drive it. My plan is to replace the cover with a new one (the buggered up bolt hole was finally drilled,the timing cover was drilled,the block was half-ass threaded and a larger bolt was used.-not proud of my work but hey-it was below Zero out there...) Anyway,I got the timing figured out and got that to run right,but the compression was low,due to 300K + on it without a rebuild. It ran good oil pressure so it won't need the crank machined-I believe the engine had one piston replaced and the cylinder sleeved at around 100K or so. I don't intend to get too extensive on this engine,just a basic ring-n-bearing,and have the head freshened up,and of course a new clutch.. I MIGHT invest in a new carb, (probably a Mikuni) but that depends on how deep into the wallet the rest of the work takes me. (BTW-Not too impressed with the little rectangle Mikuni air filter-do they offer a bigger one,something that uses a fairly common filter? Or,if there's some sort of adapter maybe I can engineer a remote filter. Speed
  17. " Better than the flu, right? " Amen to that! Typically,I'll get mostly over this but the cough will keep beating on me for a couple of weeks. This auger truck has the 270 inliner in it,missing some small parts,but like I said,I think I can come up with enough to make it a runner. A minor concern is that if I DO make a deal for it,I have no place to park it. Well-that may not be entirely true if I make the deal quickly enough. My friend Ben,who has let me store my vehicles on his land,has mentioned building a fair sized chain link fence around his acreage,and I bet an auger truck would work well for him if I fix the hydraulics and find a smaller bit for it someplace. (Maybe if I check where the current owner bought the truck they still have the accessories for it.) Speed
  18. I'll check into that-I don't know if I have the books for it,but I may be able to find out if there's a different carrier listed for electric and vacuum or if they both show the same part number. BTW-I talked to the guy with the auger truck,and he says he'd rather sell (or trade) the whole truck than just the parts,so now we just need to reach an agreement on price or what he's currently looking for. As I understand it,this truck was in use until it blew a hydraulic line,after which they "retired" it and bought a newer one,so there's a possibility I could get it to run well enough to drive it home. More news-I got the speedometer cable adapter I believe will give me a speedometer on the '54 again. I've been sick for the last 9 days,but as soon as I'm up to it I'll go out and see if the adapter fits. (It has a Ford part number and was listed for Ford trucks from the 60's-70's.) Speed
  19. I will be starting a rebuild for my 1981 Toyota 22R engine. Is there anything particularly "peculiar" in rebuilding a 22R? Tentatively I plan to get the valves done, and while the engine is apart I'll work on cover plates for all the exhaust components that I won't be reinstalling, hone the cylinders and install new rings and bearings. I also need a new timing cover and have one bolt hole to repair in the block. I plan to do some work on my alternator bracket too, as the one I used to install the 10si alternator was a hurry-up arrangement and is pretty flimsy. If the money's available,I'll order a 105 amp alternator for the truck too. (You might have noticed I'm sold on these. LOL) When I'm ready to install the engine, I'll be installing a ceramic puck clutch. Speed
  20. As I understand it,a spring makes it default to Low range if vacuum fails,but the vacuum holds it into High,unless the vacuum in the tank is depleted by a leak or a LOOOOONNNNG up hill grade,where it either downshifts or creates a neutral/grenade situation. Maybe removing the spring and making a "ball and spring" detent for each end of the lever would hold it into which ever speed one chooses,and a solenoid would only have to be momentary to push the lever from one gear to the other. I'd REALLY prefer some form of electric shift,they're much easier to use while shifting the transmission. I know where there's an electric Eaton 1350 in Carlin;I've been working on a deal with the owner for the whole truck,a '57 GMC 350 with a post hole auger and the engine froze up,but maybe he'd consider trading the punkin for my vac. shift one,since it's unlikely he'll ever put it on the rod again anyway. (I'll need the speedometer too,so the speedometer can correct from low to high and back.) Speed
  21. Thanks Moses; I've made a shortcut to that link,but I still don't know any numbers or specific ID on the engine yet. I'm trying to get Pat to tell me where the engine is so I can go do some detective work. Pat says it was in a forklift that was in a fire on the docks in San Francisco,but the engine wasn't touched. I noticed on the Perkins website the power and torque are referenced in a different terminology than we use,so I'll have to find a "conversion chart" to see what I'm dealing with. On this Eaton 1350 2 speed axle,is there any reason I can't work up an electric shift for it instead of the vacuum set up? I'd considered a solenoid,but it wouldn't stay shifted without overheating,so I guess I have to figure out a way to adapt the electric shift to a vacuum axle. Speed
  22. Hi Moses; " Stunt drivers spin a car around by using the parking brake " I used to do that too,it works on pavement too,but you have to be careful what car you do it with;for some reason some cars don't enjoy it much,VW's are a good example-don't ask how I know this.... Yeah,I know the purpose of it,but even knowing it doesn't work on this truck there's no issue with running without it. There's not even a kit for it or a replacement for it through aftermarket-maybe I could use one of the universal fit adjustable proportioning valves. I can get one like I put on the '54 for about $35.00.
  23. If the Perkins six makes enough torque and power I'm looking at it for the '54. If not,maybe it'd be workable in Max. I'm trying to find more info on this particular engine,i.e. engine model number,ID number,etc. so I can look up some spec's on it. The guy who knows the guy who has the engine is a little hard to reach lately. The '54 runs again and is ready to roll,so as soon as I can arrange a ride I'll go get it. If the yota had the bumper/grille guard/push bar I want on it ,I could just put the tow bar on it,drive IT out there and tow it home behind the '54.
  24. Hi Moses; Hey,on a 22R,what's the deal on milling the head? I think this engine might have a head gasket leak from #2 to #3 cylinders. It isn't transferring any fluids,doesn't show signs of leakage outside,but 2 and 3 seem to falter until about 2000 rpm,where it smooths out,but still lacks enough power to pull 5th gear with any degree of authority. STILL gets GREAT mileage though. Well,gotta sleep a little. Speed
  25. Hi Moses; Okay-the Buick,Olds and Pontiac use the same bell housing,but the flywheels won't interchange. Different spacing from the block,different diameter,different number of ring gear teeth. In other news,I rented my spare room today,so I have enough to pay some bills and have a little left. Paid my bike insurance,paid off my Dr. bill,went to DMV and had the Chevy one ton's plates transferred back to the '54 GMC. I decided to put "Mad Max" (the '74 Chevy one ton) on hold for now;I'll eventually find a solution to the problem. I might just pull the motor and fix its internal problems,set it back in and save up for a new Holley carb. I'm going to Ben's tomorrow (today) to put a battery and some gas in the '54 and get it running,drive it up onto the flat ground and get the bed put back on it. I'm considering installing 2 of the clamps and using my 4 inch ratchet straps to hold it on so I can take it home to properly finish the install. I'll need to build some spacers,drill about 4 more straps and cut 8 more sticks of 3/4" all thread to anchor it better.(That'll make 5 anchors per side.) There's a couple of other things I want to get done on it;make the gas gauge work again,bigger alternator,maybe a new heater motor,if I can't make it sound good by greasing the bushings,and work up a radio and speaker for it. Down the line,there's re-tubing the rear section of the drive shaft,swapping a pair of black leather Jeep Cherokee bucket seats in, and a set of 5 inch exhaust stacks. On the subject of an air compressor,I think I solved the pulley problem-I might have mentioned this,but the crank pulley off an early 283 V-8 Fits right onto the harmonic balancer and self centers-all I need to do is drill and tap 2 or 3 holes in the balancer hub to anchor it from spinning loose . The crank bolt,with the help of a 3/16" spacer between the pulley and the balancer,holds it tight,but there's a pretty huge pull on it under load. Maybe 6 bolts. I don't think it spins fast enough to be at risk of throwing itself apart or anything. I still need to engineer a bracket on the right side of the engine and decide whether to use an idler for belt tension or just make the bracket pivot. I like the idler idea better. Hey,what do you know about Perkins Diesels? A friend says he has a line on a six cylinder Perkins Diesel engine out of a forklift I could probably get for $1700.00 if I can wave some cash under his nose. Its bell housing is already drilled for a GM truck 4 speed. I'll try to get more info on the engine now that I can buy some gas. Speed BTW-Subscribed tonight,too!
  • Create New...