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About dinko

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  1. Well, #5and6 injectors not getting any signal from PCM. Fuel pressure perfect. All sensors working fine. Still coughing and sputtering. Replacement PCM came in the mail today. Installed it and now the engine purrs like a kitten. Hated to have to take all the time to test everything, but now I know that everything is all good. Haven't heard much good about the computer rebuild industry but hopefully the third time is a charm. Thank you all the advice and now that I own a Jeep I'm sure I will talk to you again. Mike
  2. Moses, I was looking up some of your other posts trying to find out information on your test light setup. I ran across a guy that said when he plugged his intake it still ran. I tried it and it died immediately. No vacuum leaks. I unplugged numbers 5 and 6 injectors and the idle smoothed out (not rich) and started running better. I unplugged each of the other injectors one at a time (5 and 6 still unplugged) and a noticeable change in the idle. Also, with 5 and 6 unplugged, the vacuum is up to 12 to 15 inches! I definitely have some more diagnostic work to do.
  3. Yes I have a factory service manual. The distributor is in exactly according to their specs. The haven't checked the timing as per the instructions yet. I went ahead and purchased a new coolant temperature sensor. Did not make any difference though.
  4. Oh. Almost forgot to mention that when I hook up my timing light, no advanced options, I cannot see the timing mark.
  5. Moses, I have the entire manifold plugged except for the MAP sensor had that plug that one time also no difference in the manifold vacuum. I got carried away on another project of fixing my exhaust leak and at the same time replaced my o2 sensor. The TPS ohms test ok. The coolant temp sensor at room temperature which is approximately 80 degrees reads open. No resistance at all. May be a problem? I did get into the timing chain and it is position exactly lined up the marks on top dead center number 1 compression. Pulled the distributor out and double check the indexing on it. The only weird thing is that when the distributor is installed according to the service manual, the rotor points almost halfway between the distributor caps number 1 and number 5 terminals. This equates to about 45 degrees before top dead centre when it is in line with the number one post of the distributor. the rotor points almost halfway between the distributor caps number 1 and number 5 terminals. I was contemplating pulling the distributor out and rotating it back one tooth on the gears to try and get that closer to the number one post at top dead center. But in doing so then the cam position rotor will not be in the correct spot according to the indexing holes in it. The folks that sold me the ECM are supposed to be sending me another one this week.
  6. I did the timing chain slack test and had 8 degrees deflection. Meaning with the timing mark at 0 I backed it up to 8 degrees before top dead centre when the rotor started to move.
  7. The odo says 205k. 90k of which were supposed to be tow miles. (not sure I believe that). Engine is dirty enough for me to think that no work has been done for awhile. I will look at the link. Thanks
  8. Moses, First of all, thanks for the quick response. It's great to have a place to go to get nolageable information. I was so frustrated by the time I did the last post I didn't put down all the things that I have checked. I did do the fuel pressure test. At first I did have a high pressure approximately 70 psi. I thought great I found the problem. I traced it down to a pinched hose return line on top of the fuel tank. The tank was removed the lines straightened out and now the fuel pressure is 32 psi. I have the EVAP canister disconnected at the moment the lines plugged so as not to have a vacuum leak. The reason I'm leaning toward a timing problem, I am thinking of a jumped tooth, is because of the carbon fouled plugs also that carbon is in the intake manifold. I would think that the intake valve is not completely shut when its trying to fire. On a normal engine, one would be able to look at the position of the distributor compared to the timing mark on the dampener Pulley and determine if this had happened. I'm not sure how to do that on this motor. The position of the rotor and of the metal piece in the distributor are positioned correctly according to the service manual but I am Not sure that the chain hasn't skipped a tooth. My next project is going to be remove the front cover and verify timing is in the correct spot. Mike
  9. I have a 95 YJ 4 litre let's running extra rich. It will foul out the spark plugs with carbon fouling within a few minutes. Let me start at the beginning, I bought this Jeep running terrible. I was told it had a dead battery while jump starting they hooked up the cables backwards. I thought this was probably true due to the fact that both alternator fuses were blown. I drove it nine miles home and went through over 4 gallons of gas. Most of that ran out the tailpipe or was dumped into the crankcase. The number 5 and 6 injectors we're running fuel anytime the key was in the run position. I diagnose that problem to a burnt PCM. The PCM was sent out to a repair facility and upon return was installed and no start. the light on the dashboard would not even light up. I was told by the repair facility that that was their fault send it back and I would get a replacement. Upon installing the replacement PCM, the engine would start but still running very rich. The injectors no longer run when they're not supposed to. I started doing test procedures according to the Chrysler service manual. Cylinder leak down test shows all cylinders between 12 and 10% leakage. All cylinders 125 to 130 psi compression. Cam position sensor checks out ok crank sensor okay distributor cap rotor wires and plugs all new. timing ok per the book. ignition coil showed a low ohm reading on the primary side so I replaced it. spark is OK MAP sensor is OK idle air control solenoid was sticky so I replaced. Sprayed carburetor cleaner all around intake and didn't show any vacuum leaks. Manifold vacuum on my gauge reads low. About 5 inches at idle and up to 12 to 15 inches when rev up. Pulled the o2 sensor and plugged in a pressure gauge to do back pressure. Shows 1 pound pressure. Doesn't go up when engine revved so catalytic converter doesn't seem to be clogged. Running rich enough that in the three weeks I have been trying to figure this out, the new spark plugs were fouled enough to make hard starting. Since then I have installed fresh spark plugs. It will start and run but terribly rich. It acts like its not timed right, but all that is controlled through the PCM. Every check I do seems to point to the PCM still not being right. I am now one step away from doing the 5 gallons of gas and a match procedure. What in the heck am I missing?
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