Jump to content

smokes3456

Members
  • Posts

    13
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by smokes3456

  1. I have found that my mileage is off roughly 3 miles per gallon when I'm empty and gets progressively worse under load. The heavier the load the farther off it gets to a point. Road and wind conditions also vary the discrepancy. The only time I really check it is when I'm on the road, if I'm driving locally I don't worry about it as much. the worst I've ever seen it was going from northern Indiana to upstate New York. The overhead console was reading 14.2 and my hand calculations for that trip put me somewhere in the neighborhood of about 9.5.

  2. my onboard computer typically is 3 to 5 miles per gallon off. I think we can still use the onboard computer to track a few mileage as long as we understand how far off our computers really are. Knowing that mine is anywhere from three to five milesper gallon offmeans that I can still utilize the onboard computer to give me a rough estimate of what my actual fuel mileage is and address my driving style on the fly.

  3. Jimpoba, the major difference is in the gearing. While 3.73 gearing is good for the milage number climbing hills loaded is not my trucks strong point. Most climbs I am able to maintain speed but on some of the steepest climbs in TN and KY I will either overheat my turbo(high EGT) or lose speed. If milage is what you are after I would look seriously at a Gear Vender's overdrive unit, although Gear Vender says not to use the overdrive in high gear when loaded(that's what they said for my truck anyway which is why I have not gone that route, with the 4.10 gearing yours may be different).

  4. Yes these guys are running the fuel into the factory tank by way of a T fitting in the filler neck. One guy I know has run a solenoid valve into the engine feed line. When the factory tank is near empty he flips a switch and runs off the aux tank for a while, the fuel return line puts the unused fuel into the factory tank. When the factory tank is full he flips back to it. Sounds like a pain to keep up with, having to keep that close an eye on the fuel gauge for so long but whatever works for him. I should add that he is driving a "Driver Returns On Foot" so there must still be a mechanical pump under the hood. I will be talking to a friend who is using a tank like mine in a couple days, I'm going to find out how he is handling this issue.

  5. I looked into the transfer flow line of products but decided the convience wasn't worth that large of a price tag, especially knowing that some of the other guys I pull with have installed a "automatic" fuel system in their trucks. A fair # of guys are running a gravity feed system with a manual shut off valve operated by a couple of bicycle brake cables from inside the truck. Looks...interesting but it works(probably not something that would look like it belongs on a truck at the SEMA show.)

  6. Hi Moses, sorry I've been busy helping my parents get ready to move so I haven't been on in a while. I purchased a better built 100 gal tank and have it bolted in but am working on a way to plumb it into the factory fuel tank. I am going to run a T into the filler neck but am having an issue with getting fuel out of the tank without spending another $300 on the pump that mounts to the top of the tank. Those pumps are an eyesore to me and I need another solution that will allow me to pump fuel while driving. It is a steel tank and I have thought about going to a shop and having them weld a fitting to the bottom corner of the tank...just have to make the time.

  7. Thanks for the kind words Moses. This truck gets the credit for teaching me how to drive. I spent my younger years in the hot rod train of thought...the faster the better never mind fuel costs. Driving for profit and watching the fuel needle drop quickly the first couple trips out got me to thinking about economy. Now my acceleration happens as though there is an egg under the pedal and I don't want to break it (I routinely get out run by 18wheelers when leaving red lights). Coming to a stop happens almost as slowly and using these techniques have helped as much as watching the tach. Now that Christmas is over I did manage to set a little money back and am installing a 100 gallon tank in my bed tomorrow. My hope is that finding cheap fuel and buying bulk will be able to help me save the cash for future upgrades.

    I apologize for the delay in responding...with 4 kids and a flock of nieces and nephews Christmas is a whirlwind for us.

  8. I must say this has been the most informative post I have found to date. I have an 06 3500 manual transmission DRW. according to the build sheet it has 3.73:1 gears and at 55 I'm turning roughly 1725 rpm. I am able to maintain about 24.5 to 26 MPGs empty and 11-16 loaded. I am looking to bump my torque range up a little bit. I drive commercially and tow varying weights and trailer configurations about 50-60% of my drive time. I am looking at Banks to get all mods from the same place to ensure everything works together as it should. Where should I start? Exhaust and intake first or tuner? Pyrometer and boost gauge will be installed prior to purchasing a tuner. I should add it's a 2wd crew cab (not the megacab) LWB on 235/80 17 firestone transforce tires on stock rims inflated to 60 psi.

  9. I have an 06 3500 manual transmission DRW. according to the build sheet it has 3.73:1 gears and at 55 I'm turning roughly 1725 rpm. I am able to maintain about 24.5 to 26 MPGs empty and 11-16 loaded. I am looking to bump my torque range up a little bit. I drive commercially and tow varying weights and trailer configurations about 50-60% of my drive time. I am looking at Banks to get all mods from the same place to ensure everything works together as it should. Where should I start? Exhaust and intake first or tuner? Pyrometer and boost gauge will be installed prior to purchasing a tuner.

×
×
  • Create New...