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About bmorris57

  • Rank
    Advanced Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    York, SC
  • Interests
    Hunting and fishing... Like working on my Jeep.
    1993 Jeep Wrangler Sahara
    410 Gears, Locker Front end.
    Ford 8.8 RearEnd
  1. Moses, I noticed on the Energy Suspension Installation guide that the kit was made for 97-2000, Jeeps, I called their Tech Support and found out that the Web-Site and even the Amazon site had misinformation. According to the Tech Support person I spoke to, Energy Suspension did not make a 1" lift kit for the Jeep YJ. I found that very hard to believe... I also found that the Daystar replacement body mounts (no lift) have the metal bushings built into the mounts and also come with the same washers as the Energy Suspension kit. So the only hardware I would need to buy would be replacement bolts and any Nuts needed should I sheer any bolts off. Based on this new information... Is there value in lifting? Other than the radiator shrowd, are there other hidden gotcha's? I appreciate you input.
  2. Moses, Thanks for the response... here is the image files. I could not get the images to cut and paste so I had to attach them. I look forward to comments. Regards, Bruce
  3. Moses, I know what you are referring to, I did see this as part of the kits for other Jeep models, however, not for my YJ. Here is the link to Daystar... http://www.daystarweb.com/productdetail.php?productID=313 The only difference I saw was the Energy suspension kits comes with the washers... I did see kits for other models that had this bushing sleeve and the 1 inch lift comes with the bushing sleeve as well as all associated Hardware. The standard kits (no lift) from these two suppliers come with no hardware, with the exception of the washers in the Energy Suspension kit. I made the assumption for my Jeep model, with no lift, it did not need the additional support of the sleeve... Would I be better served with a 1" body lift and a complete Hardware package? I have 31" tires on the Jeep now and they rub at full turn. I do not see that as a big deal though. Your thoughts?
  4. Moses, Thanks for the quick response and the suppliers... what do you mean by "Durometer is crucial"? Is there a range? I called Daystar, they do not publish this number... they stated it had a hardness of 88. I have read that the stock rubber bushings were around 40 to 45. What are the recommendations? Is 88 in the acceptable range? Thanks in advance...
  5. Thanks Moses... I'll get after it. I will keep it stock on your recommendation. So I should be looking for urethane mounts? Is there a name brand you have grown to trust? I appreciate the help...
  6. Moses, Sorry for the long delay. I have not had much time for the jeep lately. I took it out the other day for a spin and I smelled Fuel fumes. Pulled it in the garage and found the rubber hose from the return line split open. This hose is the one that is behind the fuel filer and goes between the Frame and the chassis. I removed the tank and am replacing all of the rubber hoses, I am also replacing the sending unit and fuel pump while it's out. I have hit one snag... it appears that over time the grommets that set between the body and the frame have compressed. I have lubricated the folding piece of rubber and have been unable to get any of the lines out. Are there any tricks for removing these? What about reinstalling them? Should I replace the grommets? or add a body lift? (the jeep came with 31's and rub when turned hard) Even though I didn't have time before, I have enjoyed this project. Any advice.recommendations are much appreciated... Bruce
  7. I just took a fuel pressure reading from the Test port on the fuel rail. My fuel pressure is 65 PSI and steady. I removed the vacuum line from the fuel pressure regulator and there was no change. Could the fuel pressure regulator be stuck closed so it never opens the return line to keep the pressure at 31 psi? The Haynes manual says to pinch the return line and the pressure should rise to about 95 psi... if I am at 65 psi constantly does that mean the return line is partially closed? How do I verify the pressure regulator is functioning and how do I test the return line. Any help is much appreciated. Bruce
  8. Moses and team, I replaced the exhaust manifold on my jeep and the rear main seal. A few days after that I took the jeep for a long drive... about 10 to 15 minutes into my drive my Check engine light lit up. Code 27 again. Next time I drove the jeep it was a short trip, no light. I have now been able to recreate the error condition only after about 10 to 15 minutes of driving. It appears to be Heat related. Another thing I have noticed is that the engine does not bog down as severely as before. I borrowed a fuel pressure gauge from O'Reilly's, I bought a Haynes manual and they recommend checking the Fuel regulator valve by reading the fuel pressure at around 31 PSI at normal idle, then removing the vacuum line from the regulator and you should see the fuel pressure rise 8 to 10 PSI. You had recommended using a vacuum gauge to test this... is the vacuum gauge a more reliable test? How much vacuum should you pull? I assume the point is to pull the vacuum and make sure it holds... if not, the diaphragm in the regulator has a small leak. Is the temperature component of this significant or a red herring? Sorry to reopen this issue... thought it was resolved... thanks in advance for advise.
  9. Moses and team, sorry it took so long to get back to this problem. I had a locked front brake to deal with. So Moses the diagram was easy enough to follow... The Jeep is easy to get around, that's for sure. With no background in troubleshooting a vacuum problem, I decided to build a smoker. Took about 30 minutes to build. After a few cycles I could find no vacuum leaks, which frankly was a surprise. Injectors, all lines everything looked fine. What to do next? I priced the Fuel Regulator Valve... $59.00 and decided I will not shotgun parts, if I can help it. I decided to simply follow your instructions... I removed and inspected the vacuum lines from the MAP sensor, the Fuel Regulator Valve and the Evap line. Everything looked good with one exception: The connection to the fuel regulator seemed to be cracked as you suggested. The problem was compounded by the fact that these vacuum lines seem to be custom made. There is a small boot on the valve end and a normal size boot on the Intake manifold. I decided to buy a regular vacuum line to fit the smallest adapter and try to get it over the Intake nipple. $.69 for a 1 foot line. Started the Jeep.... No CEL... Hmmm Took it for a couple mile loop.... Got the engine warmed up, then climbed a hill in 4th gear.... Accelerated... No lugging or missing. I was shocked these fine cracks could cause this problem.... More testing is needed will keep you posted. Although the smoker was not needed, I I have better confidence I don't have a more pervasive issue with these lines. Do I need to try to order a direct fit vacuum line? Any other preventative suggestions? Should I replace other lines? Thanks in advance! Bruce Thanks for all the help...
  10. Moses - Thanks... the diagram certainly helps... It makes the mind wonder when you see this critical lamp removed and fragments left in the socket. That said, I really enjoy the jeep and the challenges it provides... I assume it's easiest to test for vacuum leaks with the engine running to here the leak or observe the impact as you manipulate the vacuum line? I'll get an update soon... Bruce
  11. I have recently purchased a 1993 Jeep YJ with a 4.0. The jeep recently started running and idling rough. The Check Engine Light (CEL) was not lit nor did it illuminate when the key was turned ON. After further investigation I found the CEL bulb was removed and found shards of glass in the socket. I removed the socket and added a new bulb. Upon further investigation I found the PCM is storing the following codes: 12 ==> Battery disconnected (accurate) I just did a head light upgrade and added relays. 27 ==> I have found a few listed on-line... Code 27 -Injector control circuit-bank output driver stage does not respond properly to the control signal. Code 27-Injectors No. 1, 2, or 3 control circuit and peak current not reached. Then followed by the closing code 55 I am not sure where to start troubleshooting this... Thanks in advance! Bruce
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