biggman100

One thing i did forget to add, is that my truck has a custom alternator set up. I have a friend who owns a starter, alternator, and generator rebuild shop, and with his help, because of the dual batteries, the stereo, which was really a waste, since i usually leave the amps off anymore, and the plow, which i forgot to mention, and is a Meyers electric over hydraulic, and the extra lights, and the dual screen dvd system i installed for the girls for long trips, he set me up with a 145 amp alternator, and using the inverter, i have run a full size fridge, TV, cable box, and home stereo, all at the same time, for 2 full days on one occasion, while my folks' house was being rewired. Even with the truck running, it never seemed to draw much on the truck. It idled away fine at 650 rpm, and even when the fridge kicked on, it didn't seem to drop rpm at all. I originally built this set up at a time when i couldn't really afford a generator, and i had all the components except the alternator, to use as a backup generator if our power went out in the winter, or if we needed to power something in one of our middle of nowhere winter adventures. It also, to me at least, was functional as a heat source in case the power went out while we weren't home in the winter. I could leave the girls in the truck while i set up to run the basics in the house, and they wouldn't be freezing. So far, i have had only one issue with it: if i try to draw too much juice on any one circuit, it will pop the fuse, but that is no different than if you try to draw too much juice in your house, it will trip the breaker. I really should describe my truck here. I bought this truck in southern PA, so it wasn't all rotted when i got it, and since then i have done a complete, what i call frame off winterization. I took everything off the frame, undercoated the bottom of cab, bed, and inner fenders, and also cleaned and undercoated the entire frame. I plan to keep this truck a very long time. The bed box i'm looking to get has at least 6 to 8 inches of clearance between the box floor and the bottom of the tool box, so i won't have to cut into the floor of the bed at all for ventilation. I'm figuring the space between the bed floor and the bottom of the tool box should be sufficient for ventilating purposes.

I went to move my step dad's ford to the side of the garage, where it usually sits. The shifter was in park, and the engine started up fine, but before i could do anything, i watched as the shifter jumped into reverse, and the truck tried to jump backwards. Luckily i had my foot on the brake, and it didn't go anywhere. I thought maybe the throttle sticking was why it kept jumping into reverse, but i have since fixed the sticking throttle, and twice now it has done the same thing to me. I have checked the linkage, and found nothing out of place there, and no bad bushings, so i am at a loss. As for getting the codes, my brother removed the battery, so i can't retrieve any codes. A few months ago there was an issue where the starter solenoid would just engage on its own and start the truck.

Ok, this is more a hypothetical than anything else, but especially after some comments Moses made to me in another post, i just wanted to see how feasible it might be. What i am actually looking at is what all would be needed to convert two different dodge trucks to diesel. One of the trucks would be my 1994 Dakota, which, as i have already posted about on here, some of you already know is a 4x4, with a 3.9l v-6. I also had a 1991 dakota that i toyed with the idea of converting to a diesel, mainly for longevity, and ease of maintenance, more than a desire to be able to tow heavier trailers, or anything like that, as i don't think it would be a good idea to go beyond Dodge's recommended trailer towing weights, even with a conversion like that. What i am looking for, as i don't mess with diesels much, is besides the engine and corresponding wiring and electronics, what else would i need for a conversion like that? I know i would need the fuel tank, and associated plumbing as well as the engine and associated components, but, what im not sure of would be things like, does a diesel actually have an ECM? Can a diesel be connected to the existing drivetrain i have, which consists of an AX15 5spd manual, and transfer case, which i wish too keep the 4 wheel drive intact and functional, or would i be better off to upgrade at least the transmission to something heavier duty? Which of the dodge diesels would be the best for a conversion like this, or, what about using a ford or chevy diesel? Are the diesel electronics, like their gas counterparts, separated by OBD1 and OBD2, and if so, what years did they start changing? I did read that the dodge diesel is an inline 6, whereas the ford and chevy diesels are v-8's. Would there be any advantage or disadvantage over an inline versus a v series engine? And lastly, at least for now, will a dodge inline 6 even fit in the dakota? The other truck im thinking of a diesel conversion to is a 1993 extended cab ram 1500. It has a 5.2L in it now, but the engine is pretty much shot from the previous owner not doing any maintenance on it at all for several years, and it is just sitting around for now, while i decide what i really want to do with it. I know this truck originally came optioned with a diesel, so the engine fitting isn't a concern, but the same questions about the dakota, would also apply to this truck. The main difference driveline wise between this and the dakota is that the ram is still 4x4, but has an automatic, instead of manual transmission. I was thinking of sourcing a complete wrecked Ram for the swap, so that i have all the necessary parts, such as exhaust, engine, wiring, ECM, and any other parts i might need.

I will have to look into what the draw would be, as i didn't think to consider that. I do know the inverter i am using is an older design, from an early 1980's era tow behind 24 foot camper that i tore apart, but i havent really looked at it enough to know what the specs are for it. i will have to do that this weekend when i get a few minutes, and let you know. I don't know if the set up he is using will allow direct operation of air tools or air accessories, because he has it connected to a custom underbed tank. It is on a regular cab 1996 ford, and he mounted the tank where the spare tire normally goes. As for how to cool it, what i am looking to get is a deep well aluminum bed box, and my plan for the compressor was to build a box in a box, and use a 12v electric fan at the bottom of the tool box to help with cooling. My neighbor can build almost anything i need, so i was thinking a box to fit the compressor and motor in, with a top over it so i can set stuff on it without having it fall on the compressor, and build the compressor on a support, with a fan underneath to draw in cool air and vent hot air. I don't want to put the fan in the top, or in the side, because im afraid all that will do is draw in water and cause issues. Another idea i had, taken from some high end computer cases, was to use large computer case fans, which are 12v anyway, and have them attached to exhaust ducts out the bottom of the box.

Ok, we had an issue with my step dad's 1994 ford f-150 4x4. It is an extended cab, with a 302 v-8, that a couple weeks ago revved up on its own, which has since been fixed. It was due to a sticking throttle cable, but, when it revved up, the transmission jumped into reverse on its own. Since then, it has happened a couple of times, even with the sticking throttle issue resolved. My question is, has anyone ever heard of this happening? If so, how common is it, and what are possible fixes for this issue?

Actually, that article is how i found this forum in the first place. I had asked about my transmission on dakota-durango.com, and a member there suggested due to how the extension housing came off, and what all had to be removed, that i check out the article you posted about rebuilding them, and after reading your article, and making extensive notes on removing the housing, i stumbled on to this forum, and thought that it would be very beneficial to me, as i don't do much with transmissions except replacement, to become a member, that way if i had issues with anything else that i was working on, i could draw from your knowledge and expertise.

Moses, thank you for another vehicle to consider when i do buy one for myself. My only issue with vehicles is my children. I have to have something that will comfortably seat five, plus all the stuff needed for 3 girls 10 and under, and all their stuff for however long we are gone for. If i am taking the camper, then a place to store their stuff isn't really an issue, as i can just stuff it all in the camper. When we take the boat, though, that's when taking their stuff isn't always easy, which is why i usually prefer an SUV. I would prefer a diesel for when i am towing or hauling anything though, but i don't see too many diesel SUV's. As for accidents with people carrying trailers, i have seen my fair share in my travels as well, everything from a horse trailer that broke a hitch on the back of a 2004 chevy 4x4 pick up, and the trailer flipped in the median, to large boats that have broke the hitch and didn't have safety chains, to even a Nascar semi that the kingpin broke and the trailer flipped and blocked the highway for over 5 hours. We live just over an hour from Watkins Glen, NY, and the Watkins Glen racetrack, and there is also a somewhat large lake in Watkins, as well as a horse racing track 55 miles from there, so, unfortunately, with the vacationers, and tourists, stuff like that is common around here, mainly because people don't pay attention to things like vehicle capacities and trailer weights. I am looking at getting rid of the camper, because it is getting older, and we really don't need all that space when we go camping, and maybe picking up a pop up style camper instead, but i will be keeping the boat for quite some time, so for me at the very least, an SUV is a must. Also, im not really into doing too much modifying to a vehicle. The extent of most of my modifying is maybe more aggressive tires, freer flowing exhaust, K & N air filter, just basic mods that help it breathe better, and get better traction in the snow, and what mud i may get into from time to time. After reading what you said about mileage with your truck, that seems to actually be better than my durango is, but is your truck a standard cab, crew cab, or extended cab? I thought about getting a full size truck before, and only using the Dakota for a work vehicle, and i like the look of the newer dodges, but, im not too familiar with them as far as driving or working on them. One thing i have noticed locally though, is quite a few of my neighbors have been getting rid of their Chevys, and even a couple fords, and buying newer dodges, everything from a 2005 crew cab 2x4, to a 2012 crew cab dually 4x4, and everything in between, so obviously dodge is doing something right that the rest aren't.

Another idea, for the guys who don't have an issue toting around a laptop, is the ELMSCAN series of OBDII and CANbus laptop interface scanners. I don't know much about them, but i do know that there are companies out there that make software and cable interfaces, so that you can use a laptop to read and erase OBDII codes, get live data, and supposedly make certain changes to the vehicle's ECM. I always forget about these, because i havent seen any in actual use, except in the movies, in a couple years, but i do know they are still available. I had one i tested out for a shop i was doing some performance work for a couple years ago on a Subaru, and although i didn't dig too deeply into what it could and couldn't do, i do know i was able to make changes to certain parameters, such as injection pulse width, and timing, and such, on a 1998 Subaru Impreza factory ECM, to set the car up for drifting. The only downside i had with it was that i had to have a portable power inverter with me to power the laptop for when i was tuning for long periods of time. The way that one was set up, i got the cable and the initial software so the cable would work with the laptop, and then had to purchase additional model specific software, so it isn't exactly a cheap alternative, but, it is another available option for someone who might be interested in it.

Moses, the Mt2500, in my opinion, after reading about the DRBIII, should be pretty comparable. It looks like the MT2500 will do all the same functions, and like the DRBIII, wont do most CAN vehicles, which is why Snap-On came out with the newer Solus Pro. The main difference i see, is where the DRBIII is strictly for chrysler and jeep, the MT2500 is, with the right cartridge and key, useable on any computer controlled vehicle from 1980 to 2005, and some up to 2007. I have never used any of the manufacturer specific units, such as the DRBIII, because i have found that the MT2500 will do everything i need it to do. A little clarification on what i meant by reflashing the Wrangler's ECM. He got the ECM used, and after installing it in the jeep, certain functions, such as some of the engine sensors, gas gauge, and reverse lights, either wouldn't work, or wouldn't read properly, and he used the MT2500 to get it so the ECM would properly interface with the Wrangler, and not cause issues with the way it was running. I'm not sure what all he did to get it to work properly, because i wasn't there when he did it, but when i talked to him about it, he originally said he would have to take it to a dealer, and then one day he was driving it, and he said he just used the MT2500 to get it to work right. Now, as to what to what you said about VIN matching, anytime you hook up an MT2500 to a vehicle, it will read the VIN from the ECM on any OBDII vehicle, and ask you to either verify it, or manually change any characters that are inaccurate before it will proceed with any tests. I do know that on an ECM swap, you can use the MT2500 to change the VIN in the new or used ECM, because i had to do that on the Chevy 2500 i did. I also used the MT2500 to manually input the Chevy's current mileage according to the odometer. As to ABS and airbag stuff, it will do those exactly the same as the dealer's equipment will, as long as you have current updates, so i am assuming that it can also do speedometer re-calibration as well, i just have never done it. I will however talk to my father in law, and another guy i know who swears by the MT2500, and let you know what they say about it. Whenever an update is needed for the MT2500, if it is a small update, they can do it right on the Snap-on truck, but, for the one update my father in law did, they had to send it back to Snap-on, and gave him a loaner until he got it back. The only downside i have seen so far with the MT2500, is if it isn't current and fully updated, getting it current to the last OBDII cars, can cost 1000's of dollars. I have the cartridge for all gas german cars, including BMW, Porsche, Mercedes Benz, Audi, and VW, up to 2002, and to update the cartridge i have to cover the Mercedes and BMW diesel cars, and the german cars to 2005 will cost over $800 just for that one cartridge, so it can get pretty pricey to keep it current. That is why i said if you are going to buy one used, make sure to find out when it was last updated, and how current it is. About the question you asked about the StarSCAN sitting around collecting dust in dealerships, my brother has worked for 2 different Chrysler dealerships in NY, and now works at one in PA, and he said that even though they all have the StarSCAN, he has never seen anyone use one, so i would assume that means most of them are just sitting collecting dust. I just got done talking to my father in law, and my brother, and both of them said that the MT2500 wont do a full reflash, what it will do however is allow you to use a used ECM, and be able to at least get the vehicle to run well enough so that you can drive it, but that only dealer tools will do a total and complete reflash.

I have always done compression tests cold, not so much to avoid burning myself on anything, but more because as things heat up in the engine they tend to expand, and to me it seems like that would give a false or inaccurate reading, especially since i have seen vehicles that were a nightmare to get running cold, but once they are warm start right up, and barely give any indication that there is anything wrong. I know that there are 2 schools of thought on it, at least as far as i have seen in either the shops i have worked at, or guys i have spoke to about it, but i think cold is the better way to go.

Moses, i want to thank you for all your help with this. You have been a very valuable source of information for me, when even the local yards weren't very helpful. I did as you did, and looked into that part new using the part number you gave me, and the best price i found was $650, which is out of my price range at the moment, and given that i can get the complete transmission used for $300, doesn't seem worth it to me, so it looks like i will be scouring the local yards to see if i can find that part, and if i don't find it right now, i will just swap my transmission for a used one, and fix mine later, and either keep it for a spare, or sell it as a working used one to someone else who may need one.

Moses, i completely agree with you that people do need to realize there is a difference between NYC and Upstate. When we travel out of state and people ask where we are from, they always ask how can we live here because of all the problems in New York City. I just love the expression on people's faces when i tell them that my house is more than 5 hours from there, and where we do a lot of our outdoor activities are at least 7 hours from there. I just love the "i didn't realize NY was so big" comments. I think we may have started something though with my father in law, because we do go tent camping in December for 4 days, usually in the Adirondacks, and now he is saying that we might look into a snowshoe hike this year, instead of just snowmobiling like we do every year.

JJ, ill answer yours first. Ken didn't go to ford because of mechanical issues with Subaru, it was mainly financial, and some issues he had with Subaru's upper management. My wife is an amateur rally driver, who keeps up on rally and drift news quite closely. Moses, the Subaru head gasket issue, which as a lot of people know, only affected the 2.5l, and was pretty much non-existent in the 2.2l and 3.0l, and i should have been more clear on what she was looking at. She is actually looking at a 3.0l v-6, but, having never owned or worked on one, i am looking at info on them mainly, just to see what people have to say about them. I do belong to a couple of Subaru forums, and a lot of the guys on there i asked say the 3.0 is a good engine, but the gas mileage is a bit lower than i would like, but, if they are as reliable as the guys on those forums say, then the trade off in less maintenance costs may be worth the bit extra we pay for gas. The head gasket issue did plague the 2.5l into 2005, but after that didn't seem to be an issue anymore, so if i find a well maintained 2006 or newer 2.5l, i may be looking to buy one of those. As for the part about doing my own work, i normally do, but i have never worked on any Subaru newer than 04, so i would have to really look into what it takes to do certain things, because on the older 2.5l, there were some things that were a bear to do, such as spark plugs and valve cover gaskets. Whenever i make any vehicle purchase, one thing i always look at is whether i can work on it myself or not. Papaobewon, thank you for that info, because even though my wife wont drive an SUV of any type, i will, and in a couple years im going to be looking at offloading my durango and finding something a bit newer. Its a 1999 with over 250000 miles, and is starting to do the dreaded nickel and dime me to death thing, but, for now, i need it to last just a bit longer. Luckily i don't use it much anymore, or i probably couldn't afford to drive it anywhere. And, it does look like it will be a Subaru we will be getting, as she went and test drove a few different vehicles the last few days, without me knowing about it, and said that of the 15 or so cars she drove, she likes the Subarus the best, but i would still like to hear what people have to say about other vehicles, as like i said, once i have the funds to get rid of the durango, im gonna be looking for something for me to drive. I would prefer an SUV, though, because i tow a 24 foot boat and a 22 foot camper at times.

I was talking to my neighbor about this, and he has a version of the york that is belt driven off a 110v electric refrigerator motor, that connects to his truck with a power inverter, and after looking at his, i may go this route myself. I have an in bed tool box, that after measuring it today, has quite a bit of room underneath that looks like i could use that space for, instead of trying to cram everything under the hood. I already have a dual battery setup in my truck, with the power inverter out of a 20 foot camper wired in to run other things off off, so i don't see where adding an electric motor would be that hard to do, but until he showed me his set up today, i never even thought of doing it that way. The upside is, it looks like when i get the new aluminum tool box im looking at for my truck, i can just relocate the compressor to the inside of it, and then it will be out of the weather.

As some of you already know, i have a 1994 4x4 dakota with a 3.9l, that i have been toying with the idea of adding an onboard air compressor and tank, to fill tires and run air tools intermittently off of, but my truck has A/C, and everything runs off one single serpentine belt, so how would i go about adding a good belt driven air compressor? My durango has one of the small 12v electric onboard compressors, but that seems to take forever to even fill a portable air tank, and definitely wouldn't work to run an impact tool. I tried adding a 10 gallon tank in my durango, but it took over an hour to fill to 80 LBS. I can make or source brackets to mount the compressor, but would anyone know where i can get a pulley that i could bolt onto one of my existing pulleys, like the water pump or crank pulley, or even drill holes in my power steering pulley and bolt a v-belt pulley to the front of it? I know there is a post on here about using a york a/c compressor, but after looking at one, i don't see a way to add it to my truck, because it doesnt have a lot of room under the hood. One idea i did have, was maybe bolt the compressor down on the frame below the fan, but, to do that, it looks like the compressor would be running backwards, and i am not sure that would work.

Moses, i agree with all of what you said about the tools you choose, but would also like to add some info about another line i have used in the past, and that is Campbell-Hausfeld. Most people already know they make air compressors, and air tools, but they also make an assorted line of heavy impact, mainly 1/2 inch drive sockets, in standard and deep-well lengths, metric and standard sizes, which are mainly sold at walmart. I was skeptical about buying them, but one night about 2 in the morning, i broke a 19MM impact socket trying to change a flat in a walmart parking lot about 200 miles from home, and basically had no choice. That was almost 4 years ago, and i have yet to break one, and i use them quite extensively with both my Craftsman and Snap-On cordless impacts, and my air impact. As far as i know, you can only buy them in sets, but most sets are less than $25, which is why i was leery about them in the first place. Another line of tools i have found to be better than advertised are the line of Duralast tools that Autozone sells. Again, another time where i was away from home and needed a tool for something, and they were the closest place. That was a couple years ago, and i broke one of the sockets i bought not to long ago, and i didn't have a hassle exchanging it at Autozone. Both Duralast and the Campbell-Hausfeld sockets have a lifetime warranty.

Moses, one thing i would like to point out, without stepping on any toes, about a compression test, for the people who have never really done one, is that most compression testers, and also most repair manuals say to remove all of the plugs on the side you are testing, such as the right or left head, for v engines, such as v-6, v-8, v-10, and v-12, and to remove all the plugs in a straight 4 or straight six engine, before doing the test, and to make sure the throttle is fully opened. Also, on most engines, depending on the internal wear in the engine, that the readings will be different when the engine is cold versus warm. As for a comparison between the two tools, a leak down test is the much better way to test for internal issues. One thing i always forget to mention in tool posts, is that tools like these can be rented, at least most of the time, from places like Autozone, and Advance, for when you are only looking to check out one or maybe 2 vehicles, and don't want to spend the money to buy the tools.

My wife says with all the things we already do just in Northern Pa, and central to northern NY, we don't need to travel. We just got back from an awesome, family fun filled week in the northern Adirondacks, where there was no cell service, no TV, no computers, and at least 15 lakes and 20 small mountains to kayak and canoe on, and take nature walks and long hikes up the mountains.

Moses, you just put something we do normally around here in a whole new perspective. We use snowshoes sometimes just to get around in the woods of northern NY, because 5 to 8 foot of snow overnight isn't unheard of. The Syracuse, NY and Tug Hill and northern plains area are considered the snow-belt of NY, and there are times when snowshoes are the best and easiest way to get around, even in places like my in-laws backyard at times. The last 4 years running, Syracuse has averaged more snowfall annually than even Anchorage, Alaska. The last year that it was recorded, it averaged over 115 inches for Syracuse, and 114 inches for Anchorage, at least according to city-data.com. I mentioned what you said to my father in law, and he said that wouldn't be a bad idea, to go on a snowshoe hike, except he does it everytime he has to go to the barn in the winter anyway.

Moses, thank you for the info. My wife has been steering towards an 06 or newer legacy wagon, but i wanted to see what else was available before we actually made a purchase. Up until now, with house payments and remodeling, kids and school, and other financial drains, we have only been able to afford older vehicles, but we are finally in the market for something newer. I still want to be careful about what we buy, so it doesn't seem like im just throwing money away. I owned 2 1994 Subaru legacy wagons that lasted almost 350000 miles before they started to fall apart, but that was years ago, and then when my wife and i got married, she had a 1997 legacy with a 2.5, that i eventually replaced with another engine because of the head gaskets, and then we didn't own another one until her latest one, which i found was very expensive to repair, so for now, she is driving her 1996 legacy rally car back and forth. It's street legal and has been well maintained by me, but the body is starting to rot in places. Plus i don't think it would be a good winter car for around here with all the modifications we have made to it.

And, one point i keep forgetting to respond to, from JJ's last post, is that most of the scanners out there, except for the Snap-On and MAC line of scanners, all seem to use the same basic software to program the units, and then just modify it some for their unit, which is why most of the scanners seem to have all the same functions and limitations as to what they can and can't do.

Moses, i agree with you. I would like to have the new DRB-III, but, at that price, it would take a long time to recover the cost. As for what i can do with the MT2500, i have so far found it very useful for doing the things that my Innova 3160B doesn't do, namely the ABS and airbag stuff on older models. It also seems to have a broader range of data that it can access. One upside i have found with it is the ability to read data on the go, so it also functions in the manner of an onboard computer, which can be very useful. It will also store data for later retrieval, which helps when you are on a test drive and can't keep looking at the unit. From what i understand, it will also allow for things like speedometer reprogramming, as well as reflashing of certain functions, depending on the make and model of the vehicle. I have never used it for speedo calibration, but i have used it for other functions, such as changing factory rev limiter points, and shift light functions on my wife's rally car. I mainly bought the MT2500 for pre 1996 vehicles before i bought my Innova, and found i could get software and adapters for the Innova for the older vehicles, because i didnt like the idea of carrying manufacturer specific OBD1 tools for each make around with me, especially since most OBD1 scanners were very limited function wise. I have used the MT2500 quite extensively though on a 2002 chevy 2500 4x4 that was a complete rebuild, and was able to calibrate the ECM to the truck without having to go to the dealer. My father in law used his, which is the same model as mine, to reflash the ECM in his 1999 wrangler, so it does have the capacity and ability to do those things, im just not totally sure to what extent. There is one downside to the MT2500, and that is that all of the vehicle specific software is stored on removable cartridges for each make, instead of in the unit itself, but the cartridges are still widely available for any make or model, and the unit itself has a large following, so Snap-On does offer updates, but only up to either 2007 or 2008, when the new Solus pro came out. There are also reprogrammable cartridges that you can get, but some of those are extremely pricey. There are also manuals and books dedicated to the MT2500, the most notable being the How to use the Snap-On Mt2500 series of books by Mandy Concepcion, that explain in very good detail how to calibrate and use the unit. You can find those books on amazon for less than $30. If anyone else has used the MT2500 in a shop setting, or quite extensively, i would like to hear from them about what they have used it for, as my experience is very limited. Everything i do vehicle repair wise, is on my own time, and mainly either for myself or a few family members and friends. I stopped working full time in a shop 10 years ago, and started working in the computer field.

I have used my Innova 3160B on a 1999 wrangler, and it would do OBD2 codes, as well as ABS, but not airbag codes. It also wouldn't do airbag codes, and was spotty on ABS codes on a 1999 grand cherokee. It did however do OBD2, ABS, and airbag codes on a 2003 Grand Cherokee 4x4. I have found that most scanners tend to be spotty on reading some ABS systems, namely chrysler, jeep and ford before 2000, and most, including mine, wont read airbag faults on anything made before 1999. The more expensive models can be upgraded through software updates to read ABS and airbag codes for almost any model and any year. One thing i did forget to mention in my previous post, is the Snap-On and MAC series of scanners. There are quite a few of the older Snap-On (mainly the solus line) and MAC scanners on ebay, some for pretty reasonable prices, but you have to be careful there. Read the listing very carefully, and see especially when it was last updated, and what updates were applied. While they aren't the newest and greatest models out there, for people who are only looking to interface with one or two vehicles, or maybe a few vehicles a year, they do come in handy, and do offer a broad range of features that most of the handhelds cant do. I do quite a few 1992 to 2003 vehicles, but, i don't have a big budget to play with, so i bought an older Snap-On MT2500 that was originally set up for all domestic and Asian cars, for $300 on ebay, and then had a friend who owns a shop have it updated for me for German cars, because i do work on some of those at times, and so far i have had no complaints with it. It all depends on your budget, and what you expect your scanner to do, when deciding the best purchase for you.

I know this is probably something that has been talked about to death, but it is something i feel very strongly about, and that is the tread lightly initiative. For those who may not know what it is, it is a program designed to allow for outdoor recreational activities, while providing tips and suggestions on how to keep the areas where these activities take place from being destroyed, and to ensure those areas will be around for future generations to enjoy. I recommend everyone become a member of Tread Lightly. Their website is www.treadlightly.org.

This is for all the folks who like to be outdoors in the winter, in northern PA, and central to northern NY. Not limited to just the NY/PA area, the Pennsylvania sled dog club also hosts events in wisconsin, the new england area, and new jersey. The Pennsylvania sled dog club hosts several regional events all through the winter. The events all center around sled dogs, and sled dog races, but are a fun family event that helps to cure cabin fever. They have classes ranging from pro adult classes, to pee-wee children's classes. At most of the events, you normally don't have to bring your own dogs or sled, a lot of the teams sponsor different activities where you can learn how to handle a sled. This is a quote from their site, http://www.pennsleddogclub.com/ , "Today the club has over 150 members from Pennsylvania, New York, Ohio, Delaware, Virginia, Connecticut, Rhode Island, Maryland, New Jersey and Alaska. Classes at club races range from the International Sled Dog Racing Association's Sanctioned classes right down to the Pee Wee classes. Sportsman classes for beginning and recreational mushers are also popular. We also feature pure bred classes. Many club members compete in weight pulls sanctioned by IWPA." They are always looking for new members, so if anyone is interested, go to their site and check them out. I have two pre-teen daughters who compete in the pee-wee class, and they seem to enjoy themselves immensely. Another bonus to going to their events is that they go to some very beautiful out of the way places, and most of those places, like the tug hill region in upstate NY, also host several summer outdoor activities. So this is also a way to get info on what is available in the areas that the PDSC travels to, maybe this would help you plan some summer get away activities.