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About Tim

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  1. biggman100: I know plenty of folks who have used wheel adapters to meet their needs, and beat them pretty hard off road. For some budgets it can be more common than you may think. They seem to make them that convert to your needs, but whether it will fit will be up to you to look into (in the sense of fender clearance etc, don't know how your truck is set up). Some people will tell you to steer clear of them but I think that can be contributed to a few reasons: They where installed incorrectly They bought them from cheap sources with weak alloys and materials used in the construction O
  2. Dave, My buddy is turning towards this route. It would be nice if you can maybe provide a mini-review on your thoughts on the new body. He attempted to repair the sheet metal himself on his rig, at the same time he was teaching himself to weld with a Harbor Freight special. Needless to say he ran into a lot of frustration .
  3. Thanks for the reply, I figured as much. I wasn't the one who took the tranny apart so it just hovered over my head. Engine is almost done, we need to drop it in to get the right placement of the support that came with his long arm kit, in which we can then start tack welding in some of the control arm mounts and get the Currie Rock Jocks in so we can at least roll her up on a trailer to transport to Fernley where we can finish the build.
  4. I'll just add that in my over decade of modifying military aircraft with new electrical systems we never used any form of "electrical" grease on any connectors. Now that doesn't quite relate to Jeeps in the context of the thread. Nor is that to say you shouldn't use corrosion control type purpose greases with electrical connections. I am sure it has its place and I even use them in areas that I know will create an environment of corrosion. BUT, and my big but is to look into connector styles, and placement. All connectors in aviation that are critical and can be exposed to weather elements are
  5. This is my experience as well. I have a 2" front, 1" rear lift with 35" tires. I ran stock brake lines with the line frame mount bolt removed (stupid I know) but I am in college so, you know bologna sandwiches and stuff. Eventually I bought Russel lines and they have a 2-4" kit. Now at first I didn't think about the 4" being 2 inches more then needed as the "range" was adequate. Well later I found my lines rubbing and had to buy new ones. Now I have the frame mount bolt tightened to a point where at max steer (left and right) the lines don't rub but I have to pay attention to it. This is a sma
  6. I have been a sport quad rider for a long time, as such I ride mostly hard pack desert trails (we tend to do long treks of a few hundred miles), and I have a lot of experience with suspension, engine and tire setups (even ergonomics however opinionated it may be). If you are an ATV enthusiast and reading this section but feel that you won't get a reply, please post your questions as topics at this section and expect that I will reply! Keep in mind that my answer will be from an adult with 20+ years riding experience versus other forums where you get a mixed bag of replies. Ask away, and I
  7. Things have changed here recently. My buddy and I are moving to Nevada so I have been a bit busy lately. I think I already know the answer to this but the rebuild kit (AX15) came with extra seals that just seem to go nowhere. Keep in mind, I followed your guide so the leftovers were not pictured or talked about. One is a stepped seal (by outer diameter), one is a stepped seal that seems to be two pieces glued together (one black one blue) and the other is a metal sleeve with what I assume are oil grooves machined inside the inner diameter of it and it has one single hole drilled through the sl
  8. Took a break from my buddy's build after all, my Jeep is good to go . I also spent some time upgrading my Raptor 700 for weekends where I want to go fast and have just completed college finals but now I am back at it. Transmission is being put together as I type this. Front plate just went on, waiting for it to settle and I plan on backing off the torques then torquing in back down. Then I just have the rear/extension housing to throw on, exterior components, detents and shift arm shaft and it should be good to go. As for your video I am sure its very well put together if it even has a te
  9. Thank you for the reply, will do. Now I need to just hunt down the correct snap rings. So far a few common trends: 1. Companies list them in stock and they are in fact not, extremely aggravating to get the "we don't have those in stock, even though our page said specifically we do". I under stand their side of it. 2. Omnix had there own part numbers on top of the FSM part numbers, a shame because even when listed it only tells you the thickness and not the application (1-2, 5th, input, etc.) It's coming though. I'm rebuilding the 4.0 as well so I just hop around as parts come in.
  10. Moses, great site. I appreciate the effort and the How-to. My question is the same as above, but what I am getting from the discussion is that I should use what came with the transmission, assuming it was never rebuilt. My friend has a 96 Cherokee with the AX15, when he asked me to rebuild it I thought no worries, but when I got the rebuild kit from him there were indeed two rings with a single 45 degree cut in them versus the two 45 degree cuts that make a point which were what came out of the transmission. So should I install the old ones if they are in good condition or should I install the
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